Fodor's Expert Review Les Arcenaulx

In this broad, elegant stone armory, built for Louis XIV, a complex of upscale shops and restaurants has given the building—and neighborhood—new life. Its bookstore has a large collection of publications on Marseille, as well as art, photography, history, and rare books—all in French; a boutique sells high-end cooking (and serving) goods with a southern accent; and a book-lined restaurant serves sophisticated cuisine.