Fodor's Expert Review Le Panier
This is the heart of old Marseille, a maze of high-shuttered houses looming over narrow cobblestone streets, montées (stone stairways), and tiny squares. Long decayed and neglected, the quarter is a principal focus of the city's efforts at urban renewal. In the last few years an influx of "bobos" (bourgeois-bohemians) and artists have sparked the gentrification process, bringing charming B&Bs, chic boutiques, lively cafés, and artists' ateliers. Wander this picturesque neighborhood of pastel-painted townhouses, steep stairways, and narrow streets at will, making sure to stroll along Rue du Panier, the Montée des Accoules, Rue du Petit-Puits, and Rue des Muettes.