To really get into backcountry Luberon, crawl along serpentine single-lane roads below Apt, past orchards and lavender fields. Deeply ensconced in the countryside, the tiny hamlet of Buoux (pronounced "bu-ooks") offers little more than a hotel and a café, sheltered by white brush-carpeted cliffs. If you squint, you can just make out the dozens of rock-climbers dangling, spiderlike, from slender cables along the cliff face.

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