Paris
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1. 3e Arrondissement
Marais QuarterIn recent years, the 3e arrondissement, known at the "haut Marais," or upper Marais, has morphed into one of the city's hottest neighborhoods. Its charming old notions and hardware shops have been replaced by cool cafés, art galleries, and trendy boutiques. To enjoy this alluring quartier like a local, first head to Rue de Bretagne, the main drag. Stop for lunch at one of the food stalls in the Marché des Enfants Rouges (No. 39, open Tuesday through Sunday); it's the oldest covered market in Paris. Next, explore narrow side streets, like Rues Charlot, Debelleyme, and Poitou, lined with art galleries and small boutiques. Stop for a famous chausson aux pommes at Poilâne bakery ( 38 rue Debelleyme), or treat yourself to a homemade gelato at Pastelli Mary Gelateria ( 60 rue du Temple) before a visit to one of Paris's most original small museums, the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature ( 62 rue des Archives). The park attached to the City Hall (Mairie) of the 3e arrondissement is a fine place to picnic or relax and watch the world go by, complete with a children's playground, a charming duck pond, and lovely greenery. Across the street is the 19th-century cast-iron-and-glass Carreau du Temple, which is now a locally driven arts and sports community center. This is the site of the former Templar Tower, where Louis XIV and Marie-Antoinette were imprisoned before the king's date with the guillotine. (Napoléon later razed it.) For your evening apéritif, make a beeline for the buzzy Café Charlot ( 38 rue de Bretagne). If you're in the mood for a cocktail, try the Little Red Door speakeasy ( 60 rue Charlot).
Paris, Île-de-France, France -
2. Rue Mouffetard
Latin QuarterThis winding cobblestone street is one of the city's oldest and was once a Roman road leading south from Lutetia (the Roman name for Paris) to Italy. The upper half is dotted with restaurants and bars that cater to tourists and students; the lower half is the setting of a lively morning market, Tuesday through Sunday. The highlight of le Mouffe, though, is the stretch in between where the shops spill into the street with luscious offerings such as roasting chickens and potatoes, rustic saucisson, pâtés, and pungent cheeses, especially at Androuët (No. 134). If you're here in the morning, Le Mouffetard Café (No. 116) is a good place to stop for a continental breakfast (about €10). If it's apéritif time, head to Place de la Contrescarpe for a cocktail, or enjoy a glass of wine at Cave La Bourgogne (No. 144). Prefer to just do a little noshing? Sample the chocolates at Mococha (No. 89) or the gelato at Gelati d'Alberto (No. 45). Note that most shops are closed on Monday.
View Tours and ActivitiesParis, Île-de-France, 75005, France -
3. Bercy
BercyTucked away south of the Gare de Lyon in the 12e arrondissement, blocks of stone warehouses that once stored wine are now home to Bercy Village ( 28 rue François Truffaut 08–25–16–60–75), a collection of boutiques and eateries that stay open unusually late for Paris—many shops until 9 pm, Monday to Saturday; some restaurants until 2 am daily. You can still see the old train tracks used to transport the wine barrels from the provinces. Adjacent to the shops is the tranquil Parc de Bercy, with lawns, ponds, and flower beds crisscrossed by gravel paths, and the Jardin Yitzhak Rabin, a garden named for the late Nobel peace prize winner. Nearby, at 51 rue de Bercy, a Cubist building by Frank Gehry houses the Cinémathèque Française, a film buff's paradise, showing classic films, many in English; there are frequent homages to directors and actors, plus a cinema bookshop and museum.
Paris, Île-de-France, 75012, France -
4. Rue d'Auteuil
Western ParisThis narrow shopping street escaped Haussmann's urban renovations and still retains the country feel of old Auteuil, a sedate bourgeois enclave. Molière once lived on the site of No. 2, and Racine was on nearby Rue du Buis. The pair met up to clink glasses and exchange drama notes at the Mouton Blanc Inn, now a traditional brasserie, at No. 40. Numbers 19–25 and 29 are an interesting combination of 17th- and 18th-century buildings. At the foot of the street, the scaly dome of the Église Notre-Dame d'Auteuil (built in the 1880s) is an unmistakable small-time cousin of Sacré-Coeur in Montmartre. Rue d'Auteuil is at its liveliest on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, when a much-loved street market crams onto Place Jean-Lorraine.
Paris, Île-de-France, 75116, France -
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