Fodor's Expert Review Le Chateaubriand

A chef who once presented a single, peeled apple pip (really) on a plate (at the museum restaurant Le Transversal outside Paris) has no ordinary approach to food. Self-taught Basque cook Inaki Aizpitarte is undeniably provocative, but he gets away with it because (a) he's young and extremely cool and (b) he has an uncanny sense of which unexpected ingredients go together, as in a combination of oysters and lime zest in chicken stock. The €75 set-dinner menu is modern and deconstructed, and the vintage dining room buzzes with an artsy, black-dressed crowd.