Fodor's Expert Review Christian Têtedoie

Star chef Christian Têtedoie's rocked the culinary world when, after 20 years, he shuttered his Michelin-starred gastronomic temple to open this soaring art-filled aerie perched atop Lyon's Fourvière hill. The minimalist design and immense bay windows offering staggering views of the city signaled a new direction in the great chef's approach, breaking free of classicism in favor of a more audacious menu: roasted foie gras with bitter orange, pineapple, and onion in a duck reduction; roast pigeon stuffed with garlic, cabbage, and chestnuts; or the chef's signature pressed tête de veau (calf's head) served with a half lobster en cocotte (casserole). Le Phosphore wine bar downstairs offers lighter wine-focused "degustation" menus orchestrated by Têtedoie and a guest winemaker with a quality-price ratio that's hard to beat anywhere in town.