Fodor's Expert Review Magdalen

Not far from The Shard and the Tower and London Bridges, Magdalen is a self-assured beacon of class in an increasingly gastrocentric part of town. It specializes in gutsy but unpretentious modern British cuisine at keen prices; punchy surprises like fried calves' brains with gribiche, baked Somerset kid with butter beans, or blackberry-and-apple trifle are hardly going to break the bank. The dark bentwood chairs, chandeliers, and tea candles invite you to sit back with the short wine list and ponder whether to indulge in a feast of slow-baked rabbits with white beans or whole stuffed suckling pig instead. The two-course lunch (£16.50) is definitely worth indulging.