7 Best Sights in Southern Bohemia, Czech Republic

Hrad Český Krumlov

Fodor's choice

Like any good protective fortress, the castle is visible from a distance, but you may wonder how to get there. From the main square, take Radniční ulice across the river and head up the staircase on your left from Latrán ulice. (Alternatively, you can continue on Latrán and enter via the main gateway, also on your left.) You'll first come across the oldest part of the castle, a round 13th-century tower renovated in the 16th century to look something like a minaret, with its delicately arcaded Renaissance balcony. Part of the old border fortifications, the tower guarded Bohemian frontiers from the threat of Austrian incursion. It's now repainted with an educated guess of its Renaissance appearance, since the original designs have long been lost. From dungeon to bells, its inner secrets can be seen climbing the interior staircase. Go ahead and climb to the top; you'll be rewarded with a view of the castle grounds and across the countryside.

Next up is the moat, fearlessly protected by a pair of brown bears—truthfully not really much help in defending the castle; their moods range from playful to lethargic. But bears have been residents of this moat since 1707. In season, the castle rooms are open to the public. Crossing the bridge, you enter the second courtyard, which contains the ticket office. The Route 1 tour will parade you past the castle chapel, baroque suite, and Renaissance rooms. The highlights here are the 18th-century frescoes in the delightful Maškarní sál (Masquerade Hall). Route 2 takes you through the portrait gallery and the seigneurial apartments of the Schwarzenbergs, who owned the castle until the Gestapo seized it in 1940. (The castle became state property in 1947.) In summer you can visit the Lapidarium, which includes statues removed from the castle for protection, and the dungeon.

A succession of owners all had the same thing in mind: upgrade the castle a bit more opulently than before. Vilém von Rožmberk oversaw a major refurbishment of the castle, adding buildings, heightening the tower, and adding rich decorations—generally making the place suitable for one of the grandest Bohemians of the day. The castle passed out of the Rožmberks' hands, however, when Vilém's brother and last of the line, the dissolute Petr Vok, sold both castle and town to Emperor Rudolf II in 1602 to pay off his debts. Under the succeeding Eggenbergs and Schwarzenbergs the castle continued to be transformed into an opulent palace. The Eggenbergs' prime addition was a theater, which was begun in the 1680s and completed in 1766 by Josef Adam of Schwarzenberg. Much of the theater and its accoutrements—sets, props, costumes, stage machinery—survive intact as a rare working display of period stagecraft. Theater buffs will appreciate a tour, and tickets should be reserved in advance.

Continuing along outside, the third courtyard bears some beautiful Renaissance frescoes, while the fourth contains the Upper Castle, whose rooms can be visited on the tours. From here you'll arrive at a wonderfully romantic elevated passageway with spectacular views of the huddled houses of the Old Town. The Austrian expressionist painter Egon Schiele often stayed in Český Krumlov in the early 1900s and liked to paint this particular view over the river; he titled his Krumlov series Dead City. The middle level here is the most Na plášti (Cloaked Bridge), a massive construction spanning a deep ravine. Below the passageway are three levels of high arches, looking like a particularly elaborate Roman viaduct. At the end of the passageway you come to the theater, then to the nicely appointed castle garden dating from the 17th century. A cascade fountain, groomed walking paths, flower beds, and manicured lawns are a restful delight. The famed open-air Revolving Theater is here, as is the Musical Pavilion. If you continue walking away from the castle, the park grows a bit wilder and quieter. Unlike the castle, the courtyards and passageways are open to the public year-round.

If visiting between October and April, check the website for detailed opening hours, as these vary for different parts of the castle and for different tours.

Zámek 59, Ceský Krumlov, Jihoceský, 381 01, Czech Republic
380–704–721
Sights Details
Rate Includes: Castle tours (in English) from 210 Kč, theater tour (in English) 280 Kč, castle museum and tower 180 Kč (discount only on museum and tower with Český Krumlov Card), garden free, Garden closed and no tours Nov.–Mar.

Státní zámek Hluboká

Fodor's choice

Hluboká's main focus is its castle, with a cluster of white towers flanking its walls, and tour groups pop in and out regularly. Although the structure dates to the 13th century, what you see is pure 19th-century excess, perpetrated by the wealthy Schwarzenberg family attempting to prove their good taste. If you think you've seen this castle somewhere before, you're probably thinking of Windsor Castle, near London, which served as the template. Take a tour; the happy hodgepodge of styles in the interior reflects the no-holds-barred tastes of the time. On Tour A you'll see representative rooms, including the stunning morning salon and library. Tour B brings you into the private apartments and hunting salon, while Tour C takes in the kitchen. Tour D is available daily only in July and August, and weekends only in June and September, and shows off the tower and chapel. Check out the wooden Renaissance ceiling in the large dining room, which was removed by the Schwarzenbergs from the castle at Český Krumlov and brought here. Also look for the beautiful late-baroque bookshelves in the library. The gardens are free to wander in.

Zamék 142, Hluboká nad Vltavou, Jihoceský, 373 41, Czech Republic
387–843–911
Sights Details
Rate Includes: Tours from 130 Kč (audio headsets available with English commentary), Closed Mon. Sept.–June

Hrad Kotnov

Rising above the river in the distance, this castle dates to the 13th century and was part of Tábor's earliest fortifications. After a fire in the early 1600s the castle was rebuilt as a brewery. You can visit the tower, which the Hussites used for storing artillery, as well as Bechyňská brána (Bechyně Gate). This is the last city gate still standing and has been preserved in its original High Gothic style. Inside is a new permanent exhibition of the history of Tábor opened in early 2020.

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Hrad Rožmberk

This sprawling castle overlooks the Vltava River, about 20 km (12 miles) south of Český Krumlov. Inside, on the main tour, you'll see a mix of romantic and Renaissance interiors; portraits of crusaders; and the Rosenberg Hall, dedicated to the family's history. The second route shows the apartments of aristocrats. The English Tower, included in the second route, is a 200-step climb and rewards with beautiful vistas of the countryside. English-language tours on Routes 1 and 2 are available for groups only. The basement has a Museum of Capital Justice, but the information is only in Czech. Buses run from Český Krumlov's main depot but are infrequent on weekends. Legend has it that the ghost of a White Lady appears from time to time.

Rožmberk nad Vltavou, Jihoceský, 382 18, Czech Republic
380–749–838
Sights Details
Castle tours 190 Kč for Rte. 1; 170 Kč for private rooms; 180 Kč for tower; Museum of Capital Justice 110 Kč; tours occasionally held in English.
Rate Includes: Closed Jan. 1–7. No Rte. 1 tour Mon. and Nov.–Mar. No Rte. 2 tour Mon. Museum of Capital Justice closed Jan.–May

Zámek Třeboň

The entrance to this château lies at the southwest corner of the square. From the outside the white walls make it appear restrained, but the inner courtyard is covered with sgraffito. There's a variety of tours of the interior, which boasts sumptuous re-creations of the Renaissance lifestyle enjoyed by the Rožmberks and apartments furnished in late-19th-century splendor. The gardens adjacent to the castle are well maintained and free to stroll in. The last of the Rožmberks died in 1611, and the castle eventually became the property of the Schwarzenberg family, who built their family tomb in a grand park on the other side of Svět Pond. It's now a monumental neo-Gothic destination for Sunday-afternoon picnickers. It's well worth the easy stroll along the lake to visit this tomb; summer concerts are held here occasionally. In the summer you can tour a kitchen for preparing dogs' meals, a stable, and casemates (part of the fortifications) with tunnels. The dogs' kitchen is a rarity and was for the noble family's pampered pets and working dogs.

Masarykovo nám., Trebon, Jihoceský, 379 01, Czech Republic
384–721–193
Sights Details
Rate Includes: Tours from 100 Kč, Closed Mon. and Nov.–Apr. Stable, dogs\' kitchen, and casemates closed Sept.–June

Zámek v Jindřichově Hradci

As the third-largest castle in the Czech Republic, this is the dominant structure in town, holding 300 rooms and 10,000 pieces of art. Behind the courtyard and its elegant Italian arcades, the castle's core is pure Gothic splendor, reflected not only in its thick defensive walls and round tower but also in the frescoes covering interior corridors. Colorful examples of medieval coats of arms and a panorama depicting the legend of St. George date to 1338. Over the course of centuries, buildings of an adjoining Renaissance-era château were added to the early Gothic castle, together forming a large complex. There are three different marked routes through the castle for visitors to follow. Tour A is best for design lovers: you'll visit the Adam building, which includes glimpses of Renaissance, baroque, rococo, Empire, and classical styles, as well as see numerous paintings from a previous owner's vast collection. Tour B takes you to the castle's Gothic and medieval core, the Chapel of the Holy Spirit, and the Royal Hall. Tour C offers the opportunity to visit 18th- and 19th-century apartments as well as the Rondel, a bit of an architectural oddity set in this Gothic scene, designed by an Italian in the 16th century. The official term for the decor is "European mannerism," but it really resembles a big pink cake with confectionary images of aristocratic dancers and musicians. Built as a ballroom, this space still hosts the occasional concert. Wander the exterior courtyards for free, or simply climb the Black Tower for a view of the castle and surrounding area.

Dobrovského 1, Jindrichuv Hradec, Jihoceský, 377 01, Czech Republic
384–321–279
Sights Details
Rate Includes: Castle tours (in Czech) from 80 Kč, exhibitions from 100 Kč, Closed Mon. and Nov.–Apr.

Zvíkov Castle

In a country overrun with castles, Zvíkov lays claim to being the most famous early Gothic one. Everything needs its marketing hook, but Zvíkov is interesting enough thanks to its location on two rivers and its authenticity. Unlike many other castles in Bohemia, this one survived the 18th and 19th centuries without renovation and still looks exactly as it did 500 years ago. If you have the time, you can cycle here from Písek or jump on a boat and float downriver to another nearby castle, Orlík.

Rte. 138, Písek, Jihoceský, 397 01, Czech Republic
382–285–676
Sights Details
Rate Includes: 150 Kč, Closed Mon. and Nov.–Mar.