Prague

There's an old saying in the Czech Republic which goes, "Co ?ech, to muzikant" (Every Czech is a musician). That might be stretching it a bit, but as visitors to Prague quickly realize, culture and performing arts are right at the heart of this beautiful city and its residents.

Music constantly drifts across the cobbled streets in Old Town; theater shows pop up in parks in the balmy summer months; and the calendar is chockablock with world-beating film festivals. And the best part? The affordable ticket prices. It’s almost criminal to come to this city and not take in a performance, from opera to ballet, when they are so accessible.

Prague’s musical history is a rich and varied one, from hometown composers like Antonín Dvo?ák or Bed?ich Smetana to expats like Mozart, whose Don Giovanni made its debut here in 1787 and is still performed regularly. You can also catch the work of more modern Czech composers like Bohuslav Martin?, or even Vladimir Franz, the head-to-toe tattooed composer who gave more seasoned politicians a run for their money in recent presidential elections.

There’s something particularly lovely about the regular classical music performances that take place in ancient churches dotted around the city too, but do follow the recommendations to ensure you’re getting the best of the bunch.

And it’s not all classical. The avant-garde is alive and kicking in the Czech capital, from its youthful theater troupes, some of which perform in English, to a recent crop of thoughtful filmmakers. Interesting modern dance performances also sit alongside more traditional forms. Both the National Theater and State Opera have their own ballet companies staging a mix of classic and contemporary pieces.

Opera is a major draw in Prague too, both for locals and tourists thanks to the English subtitles on most performances. While the snooty exclusivity of opera found elsewhere is eschewed here, do make sure you still dress up to fit in with the regulars.

Even if you aren’t normally a culture vulture, consider taking in a performance while you are in town. The shows are world-class and many of the concert halls are jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Note: big theaters and concert halls go dark in July and August; luckily there are festivals aplenty to keep the "magic" of art alive in Prague year-round.

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  • 1. Divadlo Archa

    Nové Mesto | Dance

    Funky, contemporary, and underground, Archa is the main venue for modern theater, dance, and avant-garde music. Some visiting troupes perform in English, and other shows are designated as English-friendly in the program. The centrally located theater opened in 1994, and is often referred to as the Alternative National Theater.

    Na Poříčí 26, Prague, Praha, 110 00, Czech Republic
    -221–716–333
  • 2. Stavovské divadlo

    Built in the 1780s in the classical style, this opulent, green palais hosted the world premiere of Mozart's opera Don Giovanni in October 1787 with the composer himself conducting. Savvy Prague audiences were quick to acknowledge Mozart's genius: the opera was an instant hit here, though it flopped nearly everywhere else in Europe. Mozart wrote some of the opera's second act in Prague at the Villa Bertramka (in Smíchov), where he was a frequent guest. The program these days is mixed, incorporating demanding Czech drama alongside opera, ballet, and musical performances. You must attend a performance to see inside, although the interior, the history, and the quality of the shows here combined make it absolutely worth it; buy tickets via the National Theater.

    Ovocný trh 1, 110 00, Czech Republic
    224–901–448-box office
  • 3. Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře

    Most of the programming for this small, out-of-the-way theater is physical, nonverbal theater and dance, along with some music. It's a great place to see cutting-edge, unconventional productions; each year has a different theme. It's also home to Motus, a not-for-profit organization, set up by young local artists, producers, and presenters to promote and produce interesting and inventive new art.

    Fr. Křížka 36, 170 00, Czech Republic
    233–376–985
  • 4. Hudební divadlo Karlín

    This beautiful, baroque-revival building plays host to all manner of song-and-dance performances, from high-art operas to cheesy musicals. Shows are usually performed in Czech but with a screen showing English subtitles.

    Křižíkova 10, 186 00, Czech Republic
    221–868–666
  • 5. Jatka78

    This experimental theater is based in a market hall, complete with a cavernous bar and bistro bisected by a huge, twisting plywood sculpture. It's worth checking out Jatka78's program online to see what new and often thrilling Czech or European performances are on, from comedy to cabaret to circus.

    Bubenské nábř. 13, 170 00, Czech Republic
    222--703--070
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  • 6. Národní divadlo

    Statues representing Drama and Opera rise above the riverfront side entrances to this theater, and two gigantic chariots flank figures of Apollo and the nine Muses above the main façade. The performance space lacks restraint as well: it's filled with gilding, voluptuous plaster figures, and plush upholstery. The idea for a Czech national theater began during the revolutionary decade of the 1840s. In a telling display of national pride, donations to fund the plan poured in from all over the country, from people of every socioeconomic stratum. The cornerstone was laid in 1868, and the "National Theater generation" who built the neo-Renaissance structure became the architectural and artistic establishment for decades to come. Its designer, Josef Zítek, was the leading neo-Renaissance architect in Bohemia. The nearly finished interior was gutted by a fire in 1881, and Zítek's onetime student Josef Schulz saw the reconstruction through to completion two years later. Today, it's still the country's leading dramatic stage. Guided tours in English (for groups only) can be arranged by phone or email in advance.

    Národní 2, 110 00, Czech Republic
    224–901–448-for box office

    Arts/Entertainment Details

    Rate Includes: Tours 200 Kč
  • 7. Švandovo divadlo

    If you want to join the theater-loving masses and there's nothing on in English, Švanda Theater is your best bet. The plays shown here—a rotating mix that can include everything from Shakespeare to Ibsen to contemporary theater—are supertitled above the stage in English. The theater also occasionally hosts live concerts and serves as a major venue for the Prague Pride festival, held every August. For the best view, sit in the balcony, on the right side, facing the stage.

    Štefánikova 6, 150 00, Czech Republic
    234–651–111

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