Author Ernest Hemingway spent many winters at the Schruns–Tschagguns skiing area in the Montafon Valley. Today neither of the towns—across the Ill River from each other—is as fashionable as the resorts on the Arlberg, but the views over the Ferwall Alps to the east and the mighty Rätikon on the western side of the valley are unsurpassed anywhere in Austria. In winter the heavy snowfalls here provide wonderful skiing. In fact, many believe the fully integrated ski area to be seriously underrated. The snow record is good, the runs are interesting, and a renaissance of the area's winter status is on the horizon. Many skiers head for Hochjoch-Zamang—the main peak at Schruns—to have lunch on the spectacularly sited sun terrace of the Kapell restaurant. Then it's on to Grabs-Golm over the river in Tschagguns. Others prefer the Silvretta-Nova run at Gaschurn and St. Gallenkirch. In summer, the heights are given over to climbers and hikers, the mountain streams to trout anglers, and the lowlands to tennis players.

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Fodor's Vienna & the Best of Austria: with Salzburg & Skiing in the Alps

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