La Cigale
Although most people come to St. Maarten/St. Martin for sun and fun, they leave praising the cuisine. On an island that covers only 37 square miles (96 square km), there are more than 400 restaurants from which to choose. You can sample the best dishes from France, Thailand, Italy, Vietnam, India, Japan, and, of course, the Caribbean.
Many of the best restaurants are in Grand Case (on the French side), but you should not limit your culinary adventures to that village. Great dining thrives throughout the island, from the bistros of Marigot to the hopping restaurants of Cupecoy to the low-key eateries of Simpson Bay. Whether you enjoy dining on fine china in one of the upscale restaurants or off a paper plate at the island's many lolos (roadside barbecue stands), St. Maarten/St. Martin's culinary options are sure to appeal to every palate. Loyalists on both "sides" will cheerfully try to steer you to their own favorites, and it’s common to cite high euro prices to deter exploration, but quite a few restaurants still offer a one-to-one exchange rate between dollars and euros if you use cash, and main-course portions are often large enough to be shared.
During high season, it's essential to make reservations, and making them a month in advance is advisable for some of the best places. Dutch-side restaurants sometimes include a 15% service charge, so check your bill before tipping. On the French side, service is always included, but it is customary to leave 5% to 10% extra in cash for the server. Don’t count on leaving tips on your credit card—it's customary to tip in cash. A taxi is probably the easiest solution to the parking problems in Grand Case, Marigot, and Philipsburg. Grand Case has two lots—each costs $4—at each end of the main boulevard, but they're often packed by 8 pm.
What to Wear: Although appropriate dining attire ranges from swimsuits to sport jackets, casual dress is usually appropriate throughout restaurants on the island. For men, a jacket and khakis or jeans will take you anywhere; for women, dressy pants, a skirt, or even fancy shorts are usually acceptable. Jeans are fine in the less formal eateries.
This formal French-provincial dining room is set in one of the island's oldest creole houses, a yellow-and-white confection of gingerbread fretwork, arched doorways, tiled floors, and wood-beam ceilings. In addition to noteworthy daily specials, the Provençal menu features dishes such as roasted rack of lamb with garlic potatoes, Dover sole in an almond butter sauce, and sea bass with Parmesan risotto. Plan to spend time here—the service is attentive but can be slow.
Whether you opt for the three-course prix-fixe menu or the à la carte offerings, you can't go wrong at this classy, breezy restaurant, set in a charming cottage in the middle of Grand Case. Choose from such classic French starters as frog legs, onion soup, or escargots before moving on to duck breast in a pepper sauce, Angus beef fillet in a fois gras sauce, triggerfish meuniere with turmeric-flavored rice, or branzino in a bell-pepper sauce.
It's hard to top the authentic French fare (steak au poivre, sweetbreads with mushroom sauce, sole meunière) at this friendly, intimate, air-conditioned restaurant. Although it's routinely packed until closing, it's also a bit tucked away on an alley in a neighborhood that isn't exactly upscale and where parking can be hard to come by, so it's best to take a taxi at night. The prix-fixe menu is a very good value, as are many of the bottles on the wine list.
French cuisine with Caribbean flavors is prepared with a light touch and presented with flair at Le Cottage, where a lively community gathers on the street-front porch. With an amazing wine cellar and a sommelier from the Burgundy region, the restaurant offers a great wine-pairing menu at €89. Alternatively, try the lobster menu at €79.
It's easy to slow down and relax at this open-to-the-breezes spot. Come for breakfast, lunch (burgers, sandwiches, salads), or a snack.
With a varied menu, reasonable prices, and a friendly staff, it's no surprise that this bistro in the bustling Marina Port La Royale is popular. At lunch, salads like the Niçoise with medallions of crusted goat cheese are good bets, and, at dinner (when it's best to arrive by taxi as the parking lot is sketchy), there's an array of delicious steak or seafood dishes and desserts, including old standbys like crème brûlée.