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Despite the small size of this island, it can take a couple of hours to travel between the popular destinations. Many sights are isolated and difficult to find; you may be better off taking an organized excursion. If you do go it alone, drive carefully; roads can be narrow, winding, and unmarked. Plan at least eight hours to see the highlights. To fully experience the island, set aside about five days so you can enjoy the water and take some hikes.
Along with Brimstone Hill in St. Kitts, Shirley Heights in Antigua, and Ft. Charlotte in St. Vincent, the Cabrits National Park's Ft. Shirley ruins are among the most significant historic sites in the Caribbean. Just north of the town of Portsmouth, this 1,300-acre park includes a marine park and herbaceous swamps, which are home to several species of rare birds and plants. At the heart of the park is the Ft. Shirley military complex. Built by the British between 1770 and 1815, it once comprised 50 major structures, including storehouses that were also quarters for 700 men. With the help of the Royal Navy (which sends sailors ashore to work on the site each time a ship is in port) and local volunteers, historian Dr. Lennox Honychurch restored the fort and its surroundings, incorporating a small museum that highlights the natural and historic aspects of the park and an open canteen-style restaurant.
Along with Brimstone Hill in St. Kitts, Shirley Heights in Antigua, Ft. George in Grenada, and Ft. Charlotte in St. Vincent, the Cabrits National Park's Ft. Shirley ruins are among the most significant historic sites in the Caribbean. Just north of the town of Portsmouth, this 1,300-acre park includes a marine park and herbaceous swamps, which are home to several species of rare birds and plants. At the heart of the park is the Ft. Shirley military complex. Built by the British between 1770 and 1815, the fort once comprised 50 major structures—including storehouses that were also quarters for 600 men. With the help of the British Royal Navy (which continues to send sailors ashore to work on the site each time a ship is in port) and local volunteers, historian Dr. Lennox Honychurch led the restoration of the fort and its surroundings, incorporating a small museum that highlights the natural and historic aspects of the park and an open-air, canteen-style Prince Rupert Tavern. The park has two short hiking trails (easy-to-moderate), along with a visitor center, interpretation panels, washrooms, and a picnic area.
The picturesque Indian River, which flows into Prince Rupert Bay at Portsmouth, is the widest of the 365 rivers on the island of Dominica and was once a Kalinago (Carib) settlement. An hour-long ride along this river, which was featured in Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest, in a hand-oared river boat is both relaxing and educational. The shore is lined with mangrove trees, whose buttress roots spread up to 20 feet. Clear, brackish water is a playground for young barracuda and crayfish. Except for singing yellow warblers, flitting hummingbird, or wing-flapping egrets, there's an eerie silence. To arrange a trip, stop by the visitor center in Portsmouth and ask for one of the "Indian River boys" of the Portsmouth Indian River Tour Guides Association. Most boat trips take you up as far as the Indian River Bush Bar, where you can get a snack and a drink (local juice or rum). You can usually make an optional guided walking tour of the swamplands and the remnants of one of Dominica's oldest plantations. Tours last one to three hours and cost roughly $20 per person (it varies depending on the guide) plus $5 for a national park day pass.
This UNESCO Heritage Site covers 8,242 acres in the northwest and is home to 4,747-foot Morne Diablotin—the highest peak in the Eastern Caribbean—which takes its name from a bird known in English as the black-capped petrel. Now extinct on the island, the bird was prized by hunters in the 18th century. Dominica is still a major birding destination, with many exotic (and endangered) species such as the green-and-purple Sisserou parrot (Amazona imperialis)—the National Bird of Dominica—and the smaller Jacquot, or red-neck, parrot (Amazona arausiaca). Before this national park was established, its Syndicate Nature Trail was aided by some 6,000 schoolchildren—each donating 25¢ to protect the area's habitat. The west-coast road (at the bend near Dublanc) runs through three types of forest and leads to the park. The trail offers a casual walk—just bring a sweater and binoculars—but the five- to eight-hour hike up Morne Diablotin is no walk in the park. You will definitely need a guide, sturdy hiking shoes, warm clothing, and a backpack with refreshments and a change of clothes (including socks). Wrap all in plastic to keep them dry.
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