Western Cuba Restaurants

Dining in the provincial capitals and towns is spotty; some places are acceptable while others seem fortunate to be able to provide nourishment at all. Pinar del Río for example, has no notable restaurants. Varadero has several good Italian, Chinese, criollo, and international options; buffets in hotels tend to be mediocre but the more luxurious resorts offer more sophisticated fare in their à la carte restaurants. You have to go off the beaten path to find such local specialties as crocodile tail (said to be an aphrodisiac) in the Zapata Peninsula, roast pork on the Isla de la Juventud, and lobster at María la Gorda.

Reservations aren't necessary, except in Varadero—especially at the upscale restaurants. Tipping is important to Cubans; an extra CUC here or there is much appreciated.

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  • 1. Restaurante Don Qko

    $

    Pronounced "Cuco," this excellent Cuban restaurant is hidden off a dusty side street in a surprise oasis of tropical plants and shrubs. Tables are arranged around a curvaceous pool and in a chic dining room that's decorated in black and white. As refreshing and attractive as the decor and setting are, the main event here is the innovative Cuban cuisine, creatively building on traditional dishes. A delectable starter of "tostones" takes typical fried, mashed plantains and raises it to a whole new level, forming plantain tarts filled with minced pork and melted cheese, and served with a sweet and sour sauce. A main course of Asado con sabor y tradicion is pork, slow-roasted, then simmered in red wine and garlic. For dessert, try the light, fluffy cloud of coconut flan, with caramelized fresh coconut. The separate bar is straight out of the 1960s, with swivel stools and yellow and black leather banquettes. The iced daiquiri is perfection. Service is polished and friendly and the owner, Alexe, is an enthusiastic, obliging host. A daily lunch special here, including appetizer, main course of chicken or meat, plus sides and a drink will set you back only CUC$6.25.

    Av. Céspedes, main street through town, esq. de Calle 21, Cárdenas, Matanzas Province, 42110, Cuba
    4552--4572

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues.
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