Fodor's Expert Review Neptune

Despite pretensions toward decorative dash (faux stone arches to mermaid murals), Neptune thrives precisely because the food eschews fancy frills, stressing tried-and-true preparations that incorporate fresh (and easily obtained) ingredients. The greatest Italian hits menu ranges from insalata Caprese to carpaccio, lasagna to linguine fra diavolo. Although seafood reigns supreme, you'll find standout steaks as well. There's a bias toward cream in the sauces, which some find heavenly, others merely heavy. But personable co-owner–chef Raj Kumar gladly accommodates special dietary requirements, including oil- and salt-free options, as well as such off-the-menu items as salmon Provençal. The likes of Ramazzotti and Rossini provide soothing background music, but avoid Saturday, when karaoke takes over.