Fodor's Expert Review Bàcaro

Bàcaro (likely derived from Bacchus, Roman god of wine) is the Venetian slang term for a gastropub, dispensing upscale versions of down-home cicheti (the city's beloved take on tapas). This dazzling yacht club eatery, boasting gorgeous views of the marina and modish decor (terrific terrace, wonderful black-and-white fishing photos, ropes hung from the ceiling to suggest both keels and sails), delivers on the name's promise thanks to the artistry of Venetian-born head chef–owner Federico Destro, late of Luca. Some of the stunners, deftly counterpointing tastes and textures: coffee-infused cured salmon; poached octopus with eggplant mayonnaise, confit tomatoes, and squid ink crispies; asparagus flan with wild rice, cauliflower puree, and Parmesan “sand”; and Niman Ranch pork belly topped with creamy polenta, roasted shallot, and Cabernet jus. A six-course tasting menu is a good deal (with an extra supplement for wine pairings).