Getting Oriented in Auckland

The drive from the airport (often slow since Auckland's road network has not kept apace with the city's growth) will take you past some dramatic sculpture and industrial parks and into the standard image of New Zealand—cleanish and greenish with the landscape dominated by the city's 50 or so volcanic hills. Many of these hills have been set aside as parks, some with livestock. The Auckland region is geographically diverse, and Auckland city sits on an isthmus between the Waitemata (to the east) and Manukau Harbour (to the southwest). At its narrowest point the isthmus is only 1 km (½ mile) wide. The Orakei and Panmure basins, which are east of the city, are actually large craters that have been invaded by the sea. There's plenty of outdoor activity on the easy rolling terrain outside the central suburban areas and in some of the city's big parks. The many islands of the Hauraki Gulf, off Auckland's East Coast, are a must; ferries go to most at least once a day.

• City Center and Parnell. Aucklanders see the central business district as the waterfront and Queen Street. Major international designers are opening stores in this part of town. To the east of the city center, Parnell has historic buildings, good restaurants, and water views, and is frequented by the upmarket "coffee set." This neighborhood also includes the Domain—home to Auckland Museum and a park with good walking and running trails, stunning harbor views, gardens and sculptures.
• Ponsonby. Explore narrow streets lined with wooden Victorian villas and stroll the main strip lined with cafés, bars, restaurants, and local designer clothing stores.
• Western Springs. A park and suburb west of Auckland, and named after the springs that bubble into the lake, this makes a nice retreat from the city with little ones in tow.
• Devonport. Across Waitemata Harbour, this moneyed suburb has great views of the harbour and a grand dame hotel.
• Remuera. "Old money" families like to live in this tony suburb close to the Domain.
• Hauraki Gulf Islands. Rangitoto, Waiheke, Rakino, and Motutapu islands have great walking and nature sites while Waiheke draws visitors to its wineries, restaurants, and Easter Jazz Festival.