Fodor's Expert Review Royal Mail Hotel

Expansive views of the southern Grampians peaks compete with the extraordinary food plated up at the hotel in the tiny town of Dunkeld, 64 km (40 miles) south of Halls Gap. One of Victoria's signature dining experiences, the menu changes daily depending on the harvest from one of the country's largest working restaurant kitchen gardens, specializing in organic and heirloom vegetables. Other produce comes from the Royal Mail's own cattle and sheep farm, free-range laying hens, nearby orchards, and its olive grove. Chef Robin Wickens' culinary innovation is on display on his chef's tasting menu, with or without meat, from A$220, dinner Thursday–Saturday (bookings essential).

The more relaxed Parker Street Project is open for lunch (Thursday--Saturday) and dinner (Wednesday--Saturday), expect the same exciting, innovative food as in the dining room (mains A$40).

Round out the experience by staying in the hotel's fine accommodation (from A$245). Choose a spacious courtyard or mountain view room, or step up to the deluxe mountain view rooms and one- or two-bedroom apartments, which look out onto Gariwerd (the Grampians National Park), all fitted with every modern convenience, or drive the 3 km (2 miles) to the hotel's historic Mt. Sturgeon farm, and sleep in a luxurious, period-furnished bluestone homestead bedroom or cozy stone cottage.