Side Trips from Ho Chi Minh City
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1. Cu Chi Tunnels
Cu Chi DistrictA 250-km (155-mile) underground network of field hospitals, command posts, living quarters, eating quarters, and traps, the Cu Chi Tunnels illustrate the Vietcong's ingenuity in the face of overwhelming odds. Work on the tunnels began in 1948 to combat the French and continued into the '70s. The extensive underground network made it possible for the Vietcong in the '60s not only to withstand blanket bombings and to communicate with other distant Vietcong enclaves but to command a sizable rural area that was in dangerous proximity (a mere 35 km [22 miles]) to Saigon. After the South Vietnam President Ngo Dinh Diem regime's ill-fated "strategic hamlet program" of 1963, disenchanted peasants who refused to move fled to Cu Chi to avoid the aerial bombardments. In fact, the stunning Tet Offensive of 1968 was masterminded and launched from the Cu Chi Tunnels nerve center, with weapons crafted by an enthusiastic assembly line of Vietcong-controlled Cu Chi villagers. Despite extensive ground operations and sophisticated chemical warfare—and even after declaring the area a free-fire zone—American troops were incapable of controlling the area. In the late 1960s B-52 bombing reduced the area to a wasteland, but the Vietnamese Communists and the National Liberation Front managed to hang on. There are two Cu Chi Tunnel tourist areas, which both have tunnels that have been expanded to accommodate tourists of all sizes. These larger tunnels are still claustrophobically small, however, and could be much too snug for some. Most guided tours go to Ben Dinh, where the firing range (M16 bullets are $1.50 each, AK47 bullets are $2 each) is right next to the souvenir shop. Ben Duoc is a much prettier site and is usually less crowded than Ben Dinh, with the added advantage of having its firing range farther away from the tunnel area. What makes Ben Duoc the more pleasant site is the on-site temple and restaurant: Ben Duoc Temple of Martyr Memorial is surrounded by lush green gardens, while the Dia Dao Restaurant is a nice location for lunch. The ticket price includes an official guide, who will show you the tunnels, air vents, and living quarters. They will also explain the re-created booby traps, the mechanized mannequins making bombs and traps, and the real-life people making sandals from tires. Both sites are owned by the government and visiting both is not recommended, as the displays are the same.
Phu Hiep Hamlet, Ho Chi Minh City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam028-3794–8830-administrationSight Details
Rate Includes: 105,000d for Ben Duoc site; 125,000d for Ben Dinh site -
2. Dinh Co Temple
Le Thi Hong Thuy, a 16-year-old girl, washed up on Long Hai Beach nearly 200 years ago and the locals buried her on Co Son Hill. According to legend, her ghost began visiting seafarers and warning them of impending bad weather, and she is now regarded as a goddess who protects the local fishing fleet. This temple is dedicated to her, and every year, on the 10th, 11th, and 12th days of the second lunar month, the it hosts the Dinh Co Festival, which includes a colorful parade and boat races, and attracts thousands of people from surrounding regions. The views of Long Hai Beach and beyond from the temple terraces are magnificent.
Off Rd. 6, Long Hai, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
3. Hang Duong Cemetery
Con SonThe graves of more than 2,000 former prisoners (now considered war martyrs), who died during the 113 years Con Dao was used as a prison, are contained in this cemetery. The vast site, which covers nearly 2 square km (¾ square miles), contains victory monuments as well as marked, unmarked, and communal graves. For the longest time, Vietnamese pilgrims visited at midnight, bringing flowers, fruit, roast chickens, and paper offering to the grave of national heroine Vo Thi Sau, who was executed in 1952 at age 19. The cemetery now closes at 10 pm, but you can still witness pilgrims praying to Vo Thi Sau for special favors, such as money and improved social standing. It's a very atmospheric ritual and no one seems to mind visitors attending and taking (discreet) photographs. Cemetery attendants are on-site to ensure proper conduct.
Nguyen Anh Ninh, Con Dao Islands, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, VietnamSight Details
Rate Includes: free -
4. An Hai Beach
The beauty of An Hai Beach is marred somewhat by the old stone and cement pier across from the Con Son Café. However, simply walk south along the casuarina-lined sand to get that deserted tropical island mood. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: solitude; sunrise; sunset; walking.
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao Islands, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
5. Back Beach
Vung Tau's most popular beach has golden sands that stretch for miles, but it's not the prettiest or the cleanest beach around. Quiet on weekdays, it's crowded on weekends, with locals who will be playing volleyball, football, and jogging. Back Beach is fine for swimming, but be aware that most of the locals swim fully clothed so parading around in a skimpy swimsuit may attract some stares. There are showers at the Imperial Hotel's Beach Club, which has a 250,000d entry fee. Amenities: food and drink; showers. Best for: sunset; swimming; walking.
Thuy Van, Vung Tau, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
Recommended Fodor’s Video
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6. Bay Canh Island
This small islet east of Con Son, Con Dao's main island, is covered by rain forest and mangroves and its Cat Lon beach is a turtle nesting ground from April to September each year. Visitors can hike up to a small lighthouse in the island's northeast, built 740 feet above sea level by the French in 1884 and still operational today. Tours to the island can be organized through the national park headquarters.
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7. Can Gio UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
This mangrove forest, officially part of Ho Chi Minh City, covers an area the size of Singapore. The old forest was destroyed by aerial bombing and defoliants—primarily Agent Orange—during the Vietnam War because it had been a regular hiding place for the Vietcong, who would fire mortars at the supply ships on the Saigon River. Residents of the area were forced to leave, and it wasn't until 1978 that surviving Can Gio families returned, replanted the forest, and gradually resettled. Surprisingly, the area's wild animals also returned, and today there are monkeys, wild boar, deer, leopards, long-tailed macaques, crocodiles, birds, and giant fruitbats, although not all are easy to spot. In 2000, the area was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and the local economy is now supported by various eco-tourism ventures. Under the Can Gio Biosphere Reserve model, families live inside the reserve conducting small-scale aquaculture ventures to help preserve what's known as the "lungs of Ho Chi Minh City." The government-owned Saigon Tourist has an "eco forest park" on Monkey Island that includes a bizarre animal circus with monkeys and crocodiles which we do not recommend.
Rung Sac, Can Gio, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam -
8. Cao Dai Holy See
The town of Tay Ninh is home to Cao Daism, an indigenous hybrid religion founded in 1926 by a mystic named Ngo Minh Chieu, and its impressive and brightly colored temple, the Cao Dai Holy See. The noon ceremony (others are held at 6 am, 6 pm, and midnight) at the temple is a fascinating and colorful religious vignette. A finely tuned hierarchical procession of men and women of all ages parades through the temple's great hall, where painted columns twined with carved dragons support sky-blue arched vaulting. Panels of stained glass with a cosmic-eye motif punctuate the walls. You are permitted to watch and take snapshots from the mezzanine. Ignore any feeling of complicity in what appears to be a collective voyeuristic sacrilege; the ceremony goes on as though you were not there.
Hoa Thanh District, Tay Ninh, Tay Ninh, Vietnam -
9. Christ the King Statue
Rio has Christ the Redeemer overlooking the city, Vung Tau has Christ the King, a 105-foot-high statue on a 13-foot-high platform atop Mt. Nho, looking out over the East Sea with his arms outstretched. Even though tackling the 847 steps up Mt. Nho is a challenge in the hot and steamy conditions, expect to be overtaken by tiny Vietnamese grandmothers in thick acrylic suits. Take plenty of water. There's a little shop at the top selling drinks and snacks, and an art gallery inside Jesus's legs, but the opening hours seem to change to suit the caretakers' own schedules.
2 Ha Long, Vung Tau, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
10. Con Dao Museum
Con SonThis vast and relatively modern museum has interesting and impressive exhibits that explore the themes (with signs in English and Vietnamese) of Con Dao's natural environment and people, the island's history as a prison island, and Con Dao today. The displays provide some insights into the island's history and its role in Vietnam's long struggle for independence.
Nguyen Hue, Con Dao Islands, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam0254-383–0517Sight Details
Rate Includes: 10,000d -
11. Dam Trau Beach
A few short years ago this was a pristine deserted wonderland of clear water and soft white sand. Now there's a collection of ramshackle huts on the beach hawking food, drinks, and deck chairs, but privacy can still be found by swimming around the rocks on the southern end of the beach. The beach is 200 meters down a rutted dirt track, which can be very slippery after rain. Look for the sign near the airport on Co Ong Street. It's a nice spot to watch the sunset, although traversing the track back to the main road in the dark can be treacherous if you're on a motorbike or bicycle. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunsets; swimming; solitude.
Co Ong, Con Dao Islands, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
12. Dat Doc Beach
Most of this beautiful crescent of white sand and calm blue waters is the private domain of the luxurious Six Senses Con Dao resort. There is a steep and narrow track leading down to the beach, just north of the resort entrance, for those who'd like to (discreetly) explore the beach. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; sunrise; swimming; walking.
Bai Dat Doc, Con Dao Islands, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
13. Front Beach Park
One of Vung Tau's more quirky sights, Front Beach Park, sometimes called Statue Park, has a children's playground, fitness stations, walking trails, and an extensive collection of statues, including some that are quite racy for conservative Vietnam.
4 Quang Trung, Vung Tau, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
14. Ho Coc Beach
This one of the most beautiful beaches in the area, and although two state-run resorts own part of the casuarina-lined golden sands, the remainder is available for strolling and swimming. There's a small collection of thatched huts containing deck chairs, which can be rented, as well as a few vendors selling drinks and snacks. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: swimming; walking.
Ven Bien, Ho Coc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
15. Hon Ba Island
Only accessible at low-tide across treacherous slippery rocks, Hon Ba Island is home to the Mieu Ba (lady) temple, dedicated to the patron goddess of sailors and fishermen. If you visit, watch the tide carefully to make sure you don't get stranded. There's no food or fresh water on the tiny island.
Off southern tip of Back Beach, Vung Tau, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
16. Hon Cau Island
Other than Con Son, Hon Cau (Big Island) is the only island in the archipelago with a water source. It was also used as a prison island by the French—one of the more notable inmates was the late Vietnamese prime minister, Pham Van Dong, who was incarcerated here from 1930 to 1931. Hon Cau is home to a turtle nesting beach and the tours offered by the national park headquarters include a visit to the prison site, as well as snorkeling along the coral reefs just offshore.
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17. Lo Voi Beach
Locals seem to prefer walking along Nguyen Van Cuu Street's sidewalk at dawn and dusk rather than on this long white-sand beach, which is usually dotted with the round basket-boats the fishermen use to get to shore. Despite being right in town, Lo Voi Beach is usually deserted during the day. Fishing boats moored just offshore make this beautiful beach even more picturesque. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; sunrise; sunset; swimming; walking.
Nguyen Van Cuu, Con Dao Islands, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
18. Long Hai Beach
This beach is about a 90-minute drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 15 km (9 miles) along the coast from Vung Tau, but it feels like it's worlds away. Opposite the Dinh Co Temple, a series of shacks offer deck chairs for rent, as well as food and drinks. The beach is not patrolled but the water is calm with no surf and the golden sand stretches for miles. Amenities: food and drink. Best for: sunsets; swimming; walking.
Rd. 6, Long Hai, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
19. Long Tan Cross
This marks the site of the Battle of Long Tan, which took place on August 18, 1966, between a regiment comprising 105 Australians and three New Zealanders and a Vietcong force estimated at between 1,500 and 2,500. The fierce battle fought during a torrential downpour in a rubber plantation left 18 Australians and 245 Vietnamese dead and 21 Australians and many more Vietnamese wounded. August 18 is now Vietnam Veterans' Day in Australia and every year on this date, and on Anzac Day (April 25), a small ceremony is held at the Long Tan Cross. People who want to attend one of these ceremonies should register their interest well in advance with the Australian Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City. The Long Tan Cross is politically sensitive and is on private land and should not be visited without an official tour guide. Those wishing to visit the site must notify the Dat Do District People’s Committee in writing by fax 3 days in advance of their visit, either individually or through a travel agent.
Long Tan, Vung Tau, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam -
20. Mulberry Beach
A cramped beach below Ha Long Street, Mulberry Beach isn't really a place you'd travel miles to see, and despite the poetic name, it's not ideal for swimming. Legend has it that the hillside near the beach, where the Virgin Mary statue is now, was once a mulberry field, hence the name. Amenities: none. Best for: solitude; walking.
Ha Long, Vung Tau, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Vietnam
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