Fodor's Expert Review Roti-Mataba

In a century-old building across from Santichaiprakarn Park on the Chao Phraya, this little restaurant serves decent, if not innovative, Indian cuisine. Few things on the menu cost more than B100. You can hear the roti—unleavened, whole wheat flatbread—sizzling near the door. The bread is filled with your choice of vegetables, chicken, beef, fish, or seafood, or just sweetened with thick condensed milk. Many curries, including massaman, a Muslim variation with a strong peanut flavor, are served at a steam table. Avoid the narrow downstairs dining area, which is unpleasantly hot and usually crowded. There's a more comfortable air-conditioned room upstairs, though the most atmospheric tables are out on the street in front.