40 Best Sights in Western Honshu, Japan

Painted a shadowy shade of black and set off dramatically by lead tiles and contrasting white vertical-slat shutters, Okayama's castle is known locally as U-jo (Crow Castle). Though it was built in the 16th century, only the "moon-viewing" outlying tower survived World War II. A replica was painstakingly constructed in 1966. The middle floors now house objects that represent the region's history, including a collection of armor and swords and a palanquin you can climb into to have your photo taken. Unlike many other castles with great views, this one has an elevator to take you up the six floors. A five-minute walk across the bridge brings you from the South Exit of Korakuen to the castle. Boats are available for rent on the river below from Hekisuien.

On display at any time are at least 2,000 items from an impressive collection. Special exhibitions vary, but they generally show how Middle Eastern art reached ancient Japan via the Silk Road. The collections include items ranging from Persian glass goblets to ornate mirrors to early stringed instruments. Located not far from the castle and Korakuen Garden, it is a 15-minute walk from Okayama Station.

Hidden in the woods above the train station is the Maria Seido Chapel that commemorates those Japanese Christians who were persecuted and often killed for their beliefs. Beside the chapel is a statue of the Virigin Mary overlooking a cage containing the statue of a Christian who had visions of Mary before his death. It is about a 15- to 20-minute walk from the station up to the chapel and can be a little slippery in the rain.

Tsuwano puts its geothermal gifts to good use at the spa at this hot spring. Inside and out, the tubs have great views of the surrounding gumdrop-shape volcanic peaks. It's west of everything else in town, across the river from the Washibara Hachiman-gu (a shrine where traditional horseback archery contests are held the second Sunday of April every year), but still not too far to get to by rented bike.

Stop in at this pottery studio near Shizuki Koen, perhaps the best place to browse through and purchase magnificent pottery. Usually you are welcome to enter the studios and see the kilns across the street every day. There is the option to sit at the wheel and make your own pottery, but it may take a month before the fired piece is ready to be sent, and shipping is only within Japan.

Built in 1730, this samurai residence belonged to the well-to-do Shiomi family, chief retainers to the daimyo. Note the separate servant quarters, a shed for the palanquin, and slats in the walls to allow cooling breezes to flow through the rooms. A few rooms have somewhat kitschy dioramas recreating scenes from household life, but they do give an idea of how Matsue samurai lived in the late Edo period. It is on the main road at the base of the side street on which Meimei-an Tea House is located (keep the castle moat on your left).

Hagi's westernmost end is bounded on three sides by the sea. This large, lovely park contains the ruins of Hagi Castle and Hana-no-e Teahouse. Hagi Castle was one of many castles destroyed by the Meiji government around 1874 for being an embarrassing symbol of backward ways. The dramatic seaside location, with its stupendous mountain backdrop, must have made the castle a truly superb sight in its day, but alas, we can only imagine, since the walls and moats are all that remain.

The Hananoe Teahouse is a bare-bones oasis of Zen, set amid meditative gardens and judiciously pruned greenery. The attendants can make the classic, slightly bitter matcha tea for you while you reflect on the transient nature of life—or consider where you'd like to go next.

Mori House, south of the park, is a long narrow building once home to samurai foot soldiers in the late 18th century. The rooms are sparse and placed one next to the other. This arrangement allowed the soldiers to leap into rank-and-file assembly just outside at a moment's notice.

Designed in 1630 by Lord Naga-akira Asano (the name means "shrunken scenery garden"), Shukkeien Garden resembles one once found around a famed lake in Hangzhou, China, which the daimyo (lord) wanted to recreate for leisurely strolls. The water is dotted with tiny rocky islets sprouting gnarled pine trees. Small bridges cross above lots of colorful carp, a fish venerated for its long and vigorous life. Shukkeien Garden sits east of Hiroshima Castle on the banks of the Kyobashi-gawa River. From JR Hiroshima Station take streetcar 1, 2, or 6, then transfer to the Hakushima Line at Hatchobori, and get off at Shukkeien-mae.

This is one of the five most revered Inari shrines in Japan. Inari shrines are connected with the fox, a Shinto symbol of luck and cleverness. People come to pray for good fortune in business and health. A series of 1,174 red wooden gates are suspended above steps that climb up the western side of the valley to the shrine, and the journey is a nice hike with a jaw-dropping view of the valley waiting for you at the top. From the station, follow the streamside Tono-machi-dori past the Katorikku Kyokai (Catholic church), but before crossing the river turn right onto the small lane. The lane leads to the tunnel-like approach through the gates to the structure high on a cliffside. You can also take a bus that approaches by a back road; the Tsuwano Tourist Information Office can help with this. Yasaka Jinja is another shrine on the site, where every July 20 and 27 sees the famous Sagi-mai Shinji (i.e., Heron Dance) Festival.

The local castle was another casualty of the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century, but from the derelict ruins there is an awesome panoramic view of the dormant volcanic cone of Aono-yama to the east and the entire valley stretching out below. To get here you can hike a marked trail that leads from Taikodani Inari-Jinja Shrine or take a chairlift from below the Taikodani Inari-Jinja Shrine for ¥700 round-trip. The chairlift takes only 5 minutes, and from the top it's about a 20-minute moderate hike to the castle foundations.