Tokyo Today

Japan puts a premium on newness, and nowhere is this more evident than in its capital city. Even for residents, it can be hard to remember what used to stand in the place of a newly constructed building in one’s own neighborhood. New trends come out of nowhere only to disappear just as quickly. In spite of all this newness and change, however, Tokyo has managed to hold on to its history. Scattered throughout the city are pockets where the passage of time has slowed. Coming upon an unexpected temple, quiet garden, or boisterous neighborhood festival gives a glimpse of how the city may have been tens or even hundreds of years ago. That the city has been able to hold on to its history in the face of hectic—and sometimes poorly planned—development is one of the most remarkable things about it.

2020 Olympics

In 2013 Tokyo got the exciting news that it would host the 2020 summer games, beating out cities like Madrid and Buenos Aires. Tokyo was deemed a "safe" choice by much of the media, capable of hosting the world event without political drama or economic upheaval. The decision is also seen as a supportive rally by the international community after the devastation of the earthquake and tsunami in 2011. Overall, the city has embraced its role as host: 2020 posters have appeared all over the city, from izakaya to office buildings, and the city government has used the games to push through any number of redevelopment plans—even those that are not slated to start until well after the event is over. The government has also implemented strict anti-smoking initiatives (event venues will be 100 percent smoke-free while more than 80 percent of local eateries will be smoke-free) to increase air quality and local companies are embracing remote work policies during the Games, to help ease Tokyo's famously packed trains.

Local Heroes to Root For

Japan had its best Olympics in 2016, bringing home 41 medals. With home advantage, the hosts are expected to top that in 2020. More than anything, there will be huge disappointment if Japan doesn’t do well in men’s and women’s judo—39 of Japan’s 156 summer and winter Olympic golds since 1912 have come from its judoka. In gymnastics, look out for the legendary Kohei Uchimura, who will be among the favorites in what is expected to be his final Olympics.

Elsewhere, Naomi Osaka and Kei Nishikori will both be looking to medal in tennis, while on the track Japan’s sprinters are going from strength to strength—a relay medal is a real possibility, especially after rising star Sani Brown recently went sub-10 seconds in the 100 meters. At the Paralympics, Japan also has a chance in the women’s para-badminton (standing class), which debuts in 2020. Mamiko Toyoda is ranked third in the world in that.

The Green Movement

Japan still has a penchant for overpackaging and pesticides, but Tokyo is gradually becoming a greener city. In the last few years eco-friendly hybrid taxis have become a familiar sight in central Tokyo, while offices and public buildings have been sprouting rooftop gardens. After the energy shortages that followed the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, setsuden (energy saving) became a prominent buzzword. These efforts come to the fore in the summer months as people look for alternatives to energy-guzzling air-conditioning—look out for people growing “green curtains” (usually vinous plants) on their balconies to block out the heat of the midday sun. You will also see the eco-boom reflected in menus. While Japan still lags behind other developed nations when it comes to the production and consumption of organic produce, organic food is much easier to find than it once was in Tokyo’s restaurants and cafés.

Dining

Judge a city by Michelin stars alone and Tokyo is the undisputed culinary capital of the world. In 2019, the guide handed out 308 stars to a total of 230 restaurants in Tokyo, double the number given to restaurants in Paris and New York combined. The culinary culture in Japan, however, runs far deeper than Michelin’s elevated focus, and there’s been a renewed appreciation among Japanese for what’s been dubbed B-kyu gurume (literally B-grade gourmet)—low-cost, fairly no-frills dishes such as ramen and okonomiyaki (a savory pancake filled with various ingredients).

Pollution

A decade ago you would have struggled to find a smoke-free café or bar, but quite a shift has taken place in recent years. Although some coffee shop chains still only have token nonsmoking areas, where smoke from neighboring tables fills the air, the major international brands and many small, local cafés are frequently smoke-free or at least keep smokers in a separate, closed room or on different floors. Izakaya are as smoky as ever, yet a growing number of Tokyo’s pubs and bars are smoke-free zones. Many of Tokyo’s wards, including Chiyoda and Shinjuku, have also banned smoking on the street. This all ties in with a steady decline in cigarette sales in Japan, which has been aided by regular increases in the price of cigarettes in recent years. Japan’s 30 million or so smokers still get through an incredible 20 billion cigarettes a year, but that number is less than half the amount consumed in the mid-'90s. In 2018, Japan’s Health Ministry removed its last cigarette vending machine.

Population

With a population of just more than 13 million, Tokyo knows crowds. Commuters get squashed in the morning and evening rush hours, while shoppers in areas like Shibuya and Shinjuku are buffeted by shoulder bumps. But with an aging population and declining birthrate, Tokyo’s population is soon expected to stop growing. It might peak at the 14 million mark in the next decade, but after that, one government report predicts there will be just 8 million Tokyoites by 2100.

Craft Beer

Sake and mass-produced beer brands like Asahi might be Japan’s most famous tipples, but the country has started to embrace craft beer in recent years. To be fair, there have been small-scale brewers in Japan for years—some great, like Baird Brewing and the Shiga Kogen Brewery, others less so—but what’s new is the number of places in Tokyo where hopheads can sample their wares. Joining older pubs, such as the magnificent Popeye in Ryōgoku, are hip venues in Shibuya like Goodbeer Faucets, which is drawing a once unimaginable eclectic mix of drinkers to artisanal beer.