Fodor's Expert Review Peter Cat

Along with the nearby Mocambo, this is one of the city's oldest restaurants, with an atmosphere that harkens back to its early days in the 1960s. (Some of the staff may actually date from those times, too.) The Chelo kebab here—a simple dish plated to resemble a cello with buttered saffron rice, a fried egg, two pieces of mutton (goat) kebabs, and one chicken kebab—is wildly popular in Kolkata for reasons best known to the loyals. The dining room is intimate, thanks to the small tables, with white stucco walls, and somewhat tired, as with most restaurants in the vicinity, with Tiffany-style lamps and soft lighting. The restaurant is always packed, so book your table in advance.