In the rural areas outside of Ouarzazate there are virtually no restaurants, just weathered streetside cafés with basic bathroom facilities (bring your own toilet paper!). These local spots can be great; just ask about the meal of the day, rather than look at the menu. Otherwise, lunch stops, complete with decent bathroom facilities, are best found in the hotels and auberges listed. For evening meals it is best to book your accommodation with half board. The fare you’ll be served along the southern oases routes tends to be hearty and simple. Harira (a tomato and lentil soup) is more than welcome as night sets in and temperatures plunge. Mechoui (roast lamb) is a standard feast—if you can order it far enough in advance. Some of the best lamb and vegetable tagines in Morocco are simmered over tiny camp stoves in random corners and campsites down here. You may want to keep a bottle of wine in the car or in a day pack, as many restaurants (even in hotels) don't serve alcohol, but have no problem with customers bringing their own. Always ask first, though, as some places object.

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