In the rural areas outside of Ouarzazate there are virtually no restaurants, just tatty streetside cafés. Lunch stops, complete with bathroom facilities, are best found in the hotels and auberges listed; for evening meals it is best to book your accommodation with half board. Far from the set-menu cuisine of Morocco’s urban palaces, the fare you’ll be served along the southern oasis routes tends to be hearty and simple. Harira (a tomato and lentil soup) is more than welcome as night sets in and temperatures plunge. Mechoui (roast lamb) is a standard feast—if you can order it far enough in advance. Some of the best lamb and vegetable tagines in Morocco are simmered over tiny camp stoves in random corners and campsites down here. You may want to keep a bottle of wine in the car or in a day pack, as many restaurants (even in hotels) don't serve alcohol, but have no problem with customers bringing their own. Always ask first, though, as some places object.

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