Hotels on the southern oasis routes generally range from mediocre to primitive, with several charming spots, simple but lovely gites (self-catering homes), and a few luxury establishments thrown in. This is not the place for major chains. Come with the idea that running water and a warm place to sleep are all you really need, and accept anything above that as icing on the cake. Bedding down outdoors on hotel terraces is common (and cheap) in summer, as are accommodations in khaimas (Berber nomad tents). The night sky is so stunning here that spending at least one night à la belle étoile (beneath the stars) seems almost mandatory. Any of the desert hotels and guesthouses in Merzouga or M’hamid will be able to arrange an unforgettable night under canvas, along with the necessary camel or 4x4 vehicle to get there. Basic bivouac camps, costing around 250 DH per person per night, typically have mattresses on the floor of large Berber tents and a shared bathroom block. Luxury tented camps—featuring private safari-style tents with Berber rugs, plush furnishings, and en suite chemical toilets—fulfill the Arabian Nights "glamping" fantasy; rates start at around 1,500 DH per person. Whatever you choose, bear in mind that many lodgings in remote areas still don’t accept credit cards; double check the terms of payment and be sure to have sufficient cash on hand if required.

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