High Atlas
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1. Goundafi Kasbahs
Most of the massive Goundafi Kasbahs, strongholds of the Aït Lahcen family that governed the region until independence in 1956, have long since crumbled away. But just past the small village of Talat-n-Yacoub, look up. A great hulking red kasbah sits at the top of the hill, amid a scene that is today eerily peaceful, with hawks nesting among the scraps of ornately carved plaster and woodwork still clinging to the massive walls. Built as a counterpart to the original Goundafi redoubt in Tagoundaft, the kasbah is a compelling testament to the concentration of power in an era said to be governed "tribally." Locals say the hands of slack workers were sealed into the kasbah's walls during construction. There's usually not a tourist in sight. It's a rocky, although fairly easy, walk up to it. From the kasbah you can see the Tinmel Mosque to the south, across the juncture of the Nfis and Tasaft Rivers. Just southeast are the mines of Tasaft. The Ouanoukrim Massif (the group of big mountains at the center of the High Atlas Mountains) dominates the view to the north.
Marrakesh-Safi, Morocco -
2. Kasbah Telouet
A formerly luxurious testament to the wealth of the Glaoui family, Kasbah Telouet is now in ruins but is still a wonderful place to explore. About five minutes south of Tizi-n-Tichka is the turnoff for the Glaoui Kasbah at Telouet. The road is paved but narrow, and winds from juniper-studded slopes down through a landscape of low eroding hills and the Assif-n-Tissent (Salt River). In spring, barley fields soften the effect, but for much of the year the scene is rather bleak. Inside, walking through dusty courtyards that rise to towering mud walls, you'll pass through a series of gates and big doors, many threatening to fall from their hinges. Different parts are open at different times, perhaps according to the whims of the guard. Most of the kasbah looks ravished, as most of the useful or interesting bits had been carried off when the Glaoui reign came to its abrupt end in 1956. This sense of decay is interrupted when you get upstairs: here, from painted wood shutters and delicately carved plaster arabesques to exquisitely set tile and broad marble floors, you get a taste of the sumptuousness the Glaoui once enjoyed. Because it was built in the 20th century, ancient motifs are combined with kitschy contemporary elements, such as traditionally carved plaster shades for the electric lights. The roof has expansive views.
Telouet, Drâa-Tafilalet, MoroccoSight Details
Rate Includes: Entry is free, but you should tip parking attendant and guardian of gate, Parking for kasbah is down a short dirt road across from nearby auberge Chez Ahmed -
3. Prehistoric dinosaur footprints
Kids and adults alike love treading in these giant tracks of both carnivorous and herbivorous dinosaurs that are estimated to be about 185 million years old. There are several dinosaur-footprint sites in the region, but the easiest to find are those in the village of Ibaklliwne. As the road leads into the Aït Bougmez hamlets, it splits in two—this is actually a double valley. Follow the right-hand branch, leading into Tabant, the main village complete with a couple of cement structures, a school, and an administrative building. Follow this track for about 1½ km (1 mile) past the schoolhouses into the village of Ibaklliwne, where you'll find the dinosaur footprints on the hillside.
Ibaklliwne, Ait Bougmez, Béni Mellal-Khénifra, MoroccoSight Details
Rate Includes: Free -
4. Sidi Moussa Marabout
A 2½-hour walk from the base of the valley will take you to the steep slope of Sidi Moussa Hill. Here stands a circular earthen building, a shrine to the saint Sidi Moussa (Moussa means "Moses" in Arabic), which dates to at least 200 years ago. Sidi Moussa, revered for his skills in curing infertility, was buried here, and his tomb once attracted many visitors, although few still make the pilgrimage. Women thought to have fertility issues would leave a garment at the door and then spend the night inside. For a time the building was used as a collective granary before being restored by the Titmit Village Association. A guardian will serve you a glass of tea and give you a tour (pay him 20 DH minimum or 10 DH per person—all proceeds go to the Association).
Ait Bougmez, Béni Mellal-Khénifra, MoroccoSight Details
Rate Includes: Free; tour, 20 DH -
5. Tinmel Mosque
One of only two mosques in the country that non-Muslims may enter (the other is Casablanca's enormous Hassan II mosque), Tinmel sits proudly in the hills and is well worth a visit. Built by Ibn Tumart, the first Almohad, its austere walls in the obscure valley of the Nfis formed the cradle of a formidable superstate and was the birthplace and spiritual capital of the 12th-century Almohad empire. Today the original walls stand firm, enclosing a serene area with row after row of pale brick arches, on a huge scale built to impress. Admission to the mosque is free, but tip the guardian anything between 5 DH and 20 DH and he'll show you around and explain a little of the history.
Tinmel, Marrakesh-Safi, Morocco -
Recommended Fodor’s Video
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Recommended Fodor’s Video
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