Fodor's Expert Review Rahmo

You'll probably smell this eatery long before you see it: rich stews of eggplant, potatoes, and meat cook all day on kerosene burners, and the aromas waft into the narrow alleys of Nahalat Shiva. This is an outpost of Rahmo's original location in the vegetable market, and it's a down-to-earth spot in which to take a break from shopping. Try the stuffed grape leaves, scoop up hummus with freshly baked pitas, or order beef heaped over rice for a meal that will stick to your ribs.