Alexandria

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  • 1. Bibliotheca Alexandrina

    Chatby

    This monumental $190 million UNESCO-sponsored project began with an instinctively appealing idea: to resurrect the Great Library of ancient Alexandria, once one of the world's major centers of learning. Its location near the Silsileh Peninsula, on the edge of the Eastern Harbor, has tremendous symbolic resonance, having been the royal quarters in ancient times and one of several possible locations of the original library. The modernist Norwegian-designed building is in the form of an enormous multitier cylinder tilted to face the sea, with a roof of diamond-shape windows that allow controlled light into the seven cascading interior floors. The most impressive feature, however, is the curving exterior wall covered in rough-hewn granite blocks from Aswan that have been engraved with letters from ancient languages. With an aim to promote intellectual excellence, the library is a repository for the printed word—it holds millions of books including rare manuscripts—but is also a facility to store knowledge in all its forms, from audio tape recordings to electronic media. It is a robust academic organization with seven specialist research centers and has the Virtual Immersive Science and Technology Applications (VISTA) system, which transforms 2D data into 3D simulations so researchers can study the projected behavior of theoretical models. The library also acts as a forum for cross-cultural academic discussion and is home to more than 10 institutes. Membership allows you to explore the archive and use the Internet for research, but don't expect to be able to use the facility like an Internet café. Once you've enjoyed the view of the vast interior from the mezzanine gallery, there's little to hold you in the main hall, but the library has several small museums and exhibitions. The Manuscripts Museum has a large collection of rare documents, parchments, and early printed books. The Impressions of Alexandria exhibition features paintings and sketches of the city dating from the 15th to the 19th centuries and photographs taken in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The Antiquities Museum on the basement level has a collection of finds from Pharaonic, Roman, and Islamic Alexandria. Examples of monumental Roman statuary include Huge Forearm Holding a Ball (nothing else remains of the immense piece), and a finely chiseled bust of the Emperor Octavian (Augustus). Egypto-Roman artifacts include the mummy of Anhk Hor, governor of Upper Egypt, and several 2nd-century funerary masks showing the prevalent cross-styling between the classical Egyptian and Roman Egyptian styles. A planetarium and IMAX theater are the latest additions to the complex, offering a range of science- and astronomy-based activities including stargazing and constellation identification as well as interactive museum displays.

    63 Shar'a Soter, Alexandria, Alexandria, 21526, Egypt
    3-483–9999

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Library LE70, Antiquities Museum LE50, Manuscripts Museum LE30, Planetarium and IMAX shows LE50, Closed Fri. until 3pm.
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  • 2. Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa

    Karmouz

    This is the most impressive of Alexandria's ancient remains, dating from the 2nd century AD. Excavation started in 1892, and the catacombs were discovered accidentally eight years later when a donkey fell through a chamber ceiling. A long spiral staircase leads to the main hall. The stairs run down the outside of a shaft, which excavators used to transport the bodies of the dead. The staircase leads to the rotunda, which, like all but the lowest chamber, is undecorated but striking for the sheer scale of the underground space, supported by giant columns carved out of the bedrock. A few rooms branch off from the rotunda: the Triclinium was a banquet hall where relatives and friends toasted the deceased, and the Caracalla Hall has four lightly painted tombs and a case of bones. The next level down contains a labyrinth of smaller nooks for storing bodies and leads to the lowest excavated room, which is framed by columns and sculpted snakes. Casts of two statues stand here—the originals are in the Greco-Roman Museum—and three tombs are of interest for their mix of pharaonic and Greek imagery.

    Alexandria, Alexandria, 21572, Egypt
    3-482–5800

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE80 (includes Pompey\'s Pillar)
  • 3. Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque

    El Anfushi

    This attractive mosque was built during World War II over the tomb of a 13th-century holy man, who is the patron saint of the city's fishermen. The area surrounding it has been turned into Egypt's largest and most bizarre religious/retail complex, with a cluster of mosques sharing a terrace that hides an underground shopping center. Intruding on the space is a horrific modernism-on-the-cheap office building (with yet more shops) that is as pointed and angular as the mosques are smooth and curved. If you are dressed modestly and the mosque is open, you should be able to get inside. If so, remove your shoes and refrain from taking photos.

    Alexandria, Alexandria, 21511, Egypt
  • 4. Alexandria National Museum

    El Shallalat

    A small but high-quality collection of artifacts includes items found under the waters of the Western Harbor during recent marine archaeological projects. The display galleries cover every era of the city's long history and include Christian pieces, Islamic arts and crafts, and more recent information about Alexandria's colonial era. The early-20th-century Italianate palace that houses the museum, designed by a French architect, is a prime example of this colonial past.

    110 Shar'a el Horreya, Alexandria, Alexandria, 21514, Egypt
    3-483–5519

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE100
  • 5. Anfushi Tombs

    El Anfushi

    These 3rd-century-BC Ptolemaic tombs are built on a smaller scale than the Catacombs at Kom el-Shoqafa, but this necropolis has more extant decoration, including paintings on the limestone walls that simulate marble and include various images from the pantheon of pharaonic gods. The tombs are on the spit of land (which at one time was an island) separating the Western and Eastern harbors, roughly a third of the way between the Palace of Ras al-Tin on the western point and Fort Qaitbay on the eastern point.

    Alexandria, Alexandria, 21511, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE60
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  • 6. Cavafy Museum

    Mahatet El Raml

    Constantine Cavafy was ignored during his lifetime but has received international recognition since his death in 1933. His poetry, which focused on such themes as moral dilemmas and uncertainty about the future, resonated with the Greek-speaking community around the Eastern Mediterranean and has been widely translated. His poems, which include "The God Abandons Antony," and, most famously, "The City," are suffused with melancholy and a sense of alienation. The small flat where Cavafy spent the last years of his life has been turned into a museum. Half of it is given over to a re-creation of his home, with a period-piece brass bed and some reputedly genuine Christian icons. On the walls is a collection of portraits and sketches of Cavafy that only the most vain of men could have hung in his own apartment. The other half of the museum houses newspaper clippings about the poet's life and a library of his works, in the many languages and permutations in which they were published after his death—a remarkable legacy for a man who lived so quietly. There is, as well, a room dedicated to a student of Cavafy named Stratis Tsirkas, who lived in Upper Egypt and wrote a massive trilogy set in the Middle East. And there is one last curiosity: a cast of Cavafy's death mask lying cushioned on a purple pillow.

    4 Shar'a CP Cavafy (formerly Shar'a Sharm El-Sheikh), Alexandria, Alexandria, 21131, Egypt
    3-468–1598

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE40, Closed Mon.
  • 7. Fort Qaitbay

    El Anfushi

    This sandstone fort lies on the very tip of the Corniche, dominating the view of the Eastern Harbor. It was built on the site of Alexandria's Pharos lighthouse, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, and incorporates its remains—much of which are still visible—into the foundation. A Greek named Sostratus in the 3rd century BC constructed the lighthouse in the Ptolemaic period. Standing about 122 meters (400 feet) high and capable of projecting a light that could be seen 53 km (35 miles) out to sea, it was one of the most awesome structures created by ancients. The base of the four-tiered Pharos was thought to have contained some 300 rooms, as well as a hydraulic system for lifting fuel to the top of the tower. In the centuries that followed, the Pharos was damaged and rebuilt several times, until it was finally destroyed in the great earthquake of 1307. It lay in ruins for two centuries until the Mamluk Sultan Qaitbay had the current fortress constructed in 1479. Recently, a French team found what are thought to be parts of the Pharos in shallow waters just offshore, rekindling local interest in the ancient monument—there is even talk of an underwater museum, although that is unlikely to materialize anytime soon. The outer walls of the fort enclose a large open space, and the ramparts' walk affords magnificent views of miles and miles of coastline. The fort also encourages romance—the arrow slits built into the ramparts that were once used to defend the fort now shelter Egyptian couples enjoying the chance to court each other in semiprivacy. The interior of the building within the fort, by comparison, is exceptionally dull, housing an undecorated mosque, a patriotic mural of President Jamal ‘Abd al-Nasir (Nasser) reviewing a fantastically outfitted Egyptian navy, and a kitsch historical model of "the fleet of Senefroo." Upstairs are the iron bullets, swords, bombs, and shards of pottery recovered from Napoleon's ship l'Orient, which the British sank off Abu Qir, several miles east. During the summer months, look out for evening musical performances and concert series at the fort.

    Alexandria, Alexandria, 21511, Egypt
    3-480–9144

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE60
  • 8. Greco-Roman Museum

    Raml Station

    This museum was founded in 1895 and contains the best of the pieces found at Pompey's Pillar—including a statue of the Apis Bull—and two statues from the catacombs at Kom el-Shoqafa. This is Egypt's finest museum covering the period from Alexander the Great's conquest in 332 BC to the third Persian occupation in AD 619. There are a great many pharaonic pieces here as well; indeed, the most impressive thing about the museum is that it shows the scale of cross-fertilization between pharaonic culture and the Greek and Roman cultures that followed. Highlights of the collection include early Christian mummies, remnants of a temple to the crocodile god Sobek, and a courtyard full of sun-drenched statuary.

    5 Shar'a al-Mathaf el Romani, Alexandria, Alexandria, Egypt
    3-483–6434

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE50
  • 9. Kom al-Dikka

    Kon al-Dikka

    The focal point of this excavated section of the ancient city is a well-preserved amphitheater—the only one of its kind in Egypt—originally constructed in the 4th century AD, then rebuilt in the 6th century, following an earthquake. At that time a large dome was added (only its supporting columns still stand), and the theater went from being a cultural venue to a forum for public meetings of the City Council—a change deduced from ancient graffiti promoting various political parties. The other half of the site is the ancient baths and living quarters, although much of this area is best seen through the fence from the side near Pastroudis Café, where the cisterns and walls are clearly visible. The red bricks mark the location of the heated baths—warmed by an elaborate underground system—which complemented the adjacent cold and steam baths. The whole area fell into disuse after the 7th-century Persian conquest of Egypt. One noteworthy site in the residential section is a Roman house known as the Villa of the Birds, so named for its colorful floor mosaics depicting birds in several forms. The colorful and detailed craftsmanship shows a high level of sophistication. The mosaics, now restored, are protected by a modern structure. Operas are sometimes performed here in the summer.

    Alexandria, Alexandria, 21131, Egypt
    3-486--5106

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE80
  • 10. Montazah Gardens

    Montazah

    When the descendants of Mohammed Ali became khedives (princes) of Egypt in the mid-18th century, they began to surround themselves with the trappings of a royal lifestyle, and this included the lavish El Montazah palace, built outside Alexandria in the 1890s by Khedive Abbas Hilmi Pasha. During the era of Egyptian Royalty (1922–1952) the palace, enlarged in ornate Italianate style by King Faoud and surrounded by acres of lush gardens, played host to lavish parties. It was from here that Faoud's son King Farouk made his last journey on Egyptian soil after his abdication in 1952. He went into exile in Rome and died there in 1965. Today the palace is part of the presidential property portfolio. The formal gardens, with their flower beds, lawns, and beaches, offer a shady place to stroll or picnic and are very popular with local families. At the time of writing, the majority of the grounds are under renovation and unable to be visited but they are expected to re-open in 2024.

    Alexandria, Alexandria, 21919, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE25
  • 11. Pompey's Pillar

    Karmouz

    One of Alexandria's most iconic sights is this 88-foot-tall, hilltop, granite pillar surrounded by ruins. Known in Arabic as al-'Amud al-Sawiri (Column of the Horseman), the pillar was misnamed after Pompeius (106–48 BC) by the Crusaders. In fact, it dates to the 3rd century AD, when it was erected in honor of the emperor Diocletian on the site of a Ptolemaic temple to Serapis. Helpful signs on the ruins name each virtually empty spot as a "pool" or "bath," which to the untrained eye look like indistinguishable rocks. The late-model sphinxes lying around on pedestals add a little character. The most interesting element, ironically, is that from the hill you can get a glimpse inside the walled cemetery next door, as well as a view of a long and busy market street.

    Corner of Amoud El Sawary and El Shenity Abou Mandour, Alexandria, Alexandria, 21566, Egypt
    3-960–1315

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE60 (includes the Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa)
  • 12. Royal Jewelry Museum

    One of the newest arrivals to Alexandria's museum scene is the stunning Royal Jewelry Museum in the Zizenia neighborhood. It houses an impressive collection of 19th- and 20th-century jewelry from various royal and elite members of society. Inside a former palace that seamlessly blends European and Islamic styles, the building's gilded ceilings, fine paintings, and elaborate mosaics are as stunning as the jewels themselves. While you'll certainly find sapphire-studded necklaces, emerald-encrusted broaches, and many other extravagant wearable items, you'll also find gold-plated and gem-coated dinnerware, chess sets, and scepters.

    27 Ahmed Yehina St., Alexandria, Egypt
    3-582–8348

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE100
  • 13. St. Mark's Pro-Cathedral

    Manshiya

    After St. Mark visited Alexandria in AD 49, the city became an early Christian outpost, building its first cathedral by AD 282. This church, constructed in 1855, was one of the few buildings undamaged during the shelling of the city by British warships in 1882. It exhibits an odd mix of Western, Moorish, and Byzantine design elements that somehow manage to blend together harmoniously. The soft yellow stone and colorful stained-glass windows are particularly exquisite in the early morning sun. The walls are lined with plaques, some of which date back almost a century, commemorating members of the Anglican community for their years of long service to the church. A passport (the actual passport, not a copy) is required for entry.

    Maydan Ahmed Orabi, Alexandria, Alexandria, 21517, Egypt
    3-487–9927

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: Free but a donation of LE30-50 is appropriate
  • 14. The Battlefield and Monuments of El Alamein

    The desert west of Alexandria was the field of one of the decisive battles of World War II. In 1942, the British Eighth Army led by General Montgomery attacked the German Afrika Corps led by Field Marshal Rommel (the famous "Desert Fox") and sent them into a retreat, which would eventually clear Axis troops from the whole of North Africa. Soldiers from Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, South Africa, India, and other countries were buried here if they died on the battlefield. Otherwise, their bodies were transferred to the hospital in Alexandria and buried in the Commonwealth Cemetery that still exists in the city. Three carefully tended military grave sites hold the remains of Allied, Italian, and German soldiers—each with a suitably somber monument. The gardens of El Alamein's museum display an array of military hardware used in the battle. Inside the museum, galleries offer background information on the forces involved and explain how the campaign in North Africa developed and how the decisive battle played out. The museum has also collected a wealth of personal items, including letters and photographs from soldiers on all sides that layer a compelling human story on top of the military records. The sites are about an hour west of Alexandria along the coastal road. Renting a taxi for the morning is the most convenient way to see the museum, monuments, and graveyards. Local tour companies also organize guides and transportation.

    El Alamein, Matruh, Egypt
    46-410–0031

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE100

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