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Alexandria's culinary gift is extraordinary seafood, drawing on the best of the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. The preparation tends to be simple: grilled or fried, perhaps laced with garlic, herbs, or butter, and typically served with tahini (sesame paste) and a couple of salads on the side. The ingredients are so fresh that an
Alexandria's culinary gift is extraordinary seafood, drawing on the best of the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. The preparation tends to be simple: grilled or fried, perhaps laced with garlic, herbs, or butter, and typically served with tahini (sesame paste) and a couple
Alexandria's culinary gift is extraordinary seafood, drawing on the best of the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. The prepa
Alexandria's culinary gift is extraordinary seafood, drawing on the best of the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. The preparation tends to be simple: grilled or fried, perhaps laced with garlic, herbs, or butter, and typically served with tahini (sesame paste) and a couple of salads on the side. The ingredients are so fresh that anything more elaborate would obscure their flavors. Most places display their offerings of fish, shrimp, crab, calamari, and mussels on ice, and you pay by weight or per serving. The price includes preparation and everything else—there are no hidden costs. If you need help choosing, there will always be someone on hand to guide your selection.
Because the focus is on fresh seafood, restaurants in Alexandria (especially the good ones) tend to be informal and quite inexpensive for the quality of what they serve. Naturally, many are near the water, some of them appropriately weathered, while others consist of no more than a few tables in an alley. A few places will levy a service charge, but most will not. In all places a tip of 10% is appropriate. Do not expect alcohol to be served in most restaurants.
Off-season, Alexandrians eat meals at standard times: 1 to 3 for lunch and 8 to 11 for dinner. But in summer dinner often begins much later. There is nothing more Mediterranean about Alexandria than the pace of dinner in the summer: after an evening siesta, have a shisha (water pipe) around 11, arrive at a waterfront restaurant after midnight, then wrap up the meal with an early morning espresso at an outdoor café nearby. You don't have to eat so late, of course, but you might be surprised how seductive it is.
Ebn El Balad is the mixed grill half of the Ebn El Balad–Ebn Hamido restaurant duo sharing the same waterfront space near Gleem Bay. The maritime-meets-traditional-Egyptian decor is comfortable, classic, and unassuming. When you enter the restaurant, take a right if you're in the mood for mixed grill (the stuffed pigeon and vegetable tagine are both especially good) or take a left if you'd prefer fresh seafood (try the grilled sea bass with potatoes). Whichever you choose, you're in for some of the best fresh food on the Mediterranean.
What began as a kosher restaurant in 1940 is now the best place in Alexandria to find felafel and Egypt's national dish, ful (fava beans). International royalty and celebrities have dined here, but on an average day you're likely to be surrounded by locals getting their fill of vegetarian staples like roasted eggplant with tomatoes, tahini, chopped salad, baba ganoush, and pickled vegetables. While ful and falafel are traditionally served at breakfast, Mohamed Ahmed stays open late so you can enjoy them during lunch or dinner. Food comes cheap and is served lightning quick. Try to get a table downstairs since the upstairs dining room can get stuffy when it's crowded.
The signature restaurant of the Four Seasons, Byblos serves excellent Lebanese and Syrian dishes that you can mix and match depending on your mood or order as a prix-fixe. Start with a selection of hot and cold mezze, then try sheikh al manshee (eggplant stuffed with minced beef and tomato sauce) or kebbeh bel laban (lamb meatballs smothered with yogurt sauce and mint). While the restaurant is beautiful and the food is delicious, it's not necessarily the best bang for your buck.
Delices Patisserie is a great place to pick up traditional Egyptian pastries or stop in for a snack, a drink, or a quick bite. If the weather is nice, skip the indoor dining room and grab a seat on the outdoor patio. The fresh juice cocktails are delicious and the location is prime for people watching.
On the waterfront side of the Alexandria Corniche, this is probably the biggest fish restaurant in the city and sees a regular crowd of locals who know they'll get excellent but simply cooked seafood plus a great view out across the harbor. The catch is priced by kilogram, and rice and salads are included. Choose your fish and ask them to price it, so you know how much you'll be paying. There's also a decent wine list featuring local labels.
Alexandria, Alexandria, 21511, Egypt
3-480–5114
Known For
Very high food and hygiene standards
Fantastic views across the harbor
Great place to dine with locals and have an authentic experience
Gleem Bay is a waterfront boardwalk hangout dotted with cute cafés, pasta purveyors, seafood specializers, and burger joints. It's easy to stroll from one restaurant to another to see what the day's specialty is and who may have an open table right by the water. Given the quality of the food and the superb sea views, the prices are quite reasonable.
Glime Beach, San Stefano, El Raml 1, Egypt, Alexandria, Egypt
Kadoura is a nationwide chain that got its start in Alexandria in 1950, and lucky for hungry visitors, it's every bit as good as its reputation. Fish is grilled with a delicious fresh tomato, garlic, and herb purée; calamari come lightly fried, tender, and tasty. Pick your seafood downstairs, grab a wood-block number, and sit upstairs. Everything else that comes to you—salads, tahini, drinks—is included in the price. It's very popular for lunch, especially on Fridays, when space is at a premium.
47 26th of July St. (the Corniche), Alexandria, Alexandria, 21511, Egypt
This is more a pizzeria than a real Greek taverna, but the pizza is delicious, assembled in front of you and baked in an oven to the left of the entrance. The baladi oven to the right is used for fiteer, a kind of Egyptian pizza than can be sweet or savory; it's also often fairly oily—ask them to go light on the ghee (clarified butter) by telling them "semna khafeef." The menu also includes fish and shrimp dishes. The proper seating area is upstairs, but it's even cheaper if you eat at the informal area downstairs, where a shawarma (pressed lamb carved from a vertical rotisserie) sandwich makes a nice midday snack.
Alexandrians swear by this place, and it's packed with families in the early evenings and an older crowd later on. It has surprisingly elegant decor and a magnificent setting next to the water, though the atmosphere can be a little manic as waiters rush around with trays full of food. The menu is wide-ranging, but you'd be best to stick with the Egyptian dishes. The roasted meats make good choices, as do the cold mezze. Try to get a table by the window for fantastic views across the harbor.
One of Alexandria's most stylish institutions and one of its oldest coffee shops is also the city's most gorgeous restaurant, with high ceilings, elaborate carved wooden chandeliers, and swirling art nouveau murals. The food is enjoyable but unspectacular; try avocado salad and gambari konfa (fried shrimp pastry) for appetizers, and main courses of fattah (lamb) or kebab samak (fish with green rice). In the adjoining café where, behind elaborately carved wooden cabinets, a series of Venetian wood-panel paintings of sensual water nymphs will take your breath away.
Just before the entrance to Fort Qaitbay and the city's famous Citadel, you'll find the Greek Nautical Club, commonly referred to as the "Greek Club." Head to the White & Blue restaurant on the second floor, where you'll find some of the city's best views of the Mediterranean Sea and the harbor. White & Blue manages to pull off an upscale atmosphere while remaining accessible and unpretentious. The pickled octopus, smoked fish, and array of Greek salads are artfully presented and rarely disappoint.
Qaitbay Str. Alexandria 21599 Egypt, Alexandria, Alexandria, Egypt
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