By Robin Goldstein & Alexis Herschkowitsch
Contributors to the upcoming Thailand guide
If you only eat at upscale restaurants geared to foreigners, you’ll miss out on the chili, fish sauce, and bright herbal flavors that define Thai cuisine. Even if you’re picky, consider trying simple noodle dishes and skewered meats.
A typical meal costs between B20 and B50 (you pay when you get your food), and most stalls have a few tables and chairs where you can eat.
Vendors don’t adhere to meal times, nor are different foods served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, as Thais often eat multiple snacks throughout the day rather than full meals. It’s OK to combine foods from more than one cart; vendors won’t mind, especially if they’re selling something like a curried stew that comes in a plastic bag with no utensils. Find a different stall that offers plates and cutlery, order rice, and add your curry to the mix. Enjoy!
What Should I Order?
Locals will probably be eating the cart’s specialty, so if you’re not sure what to order, don’t be afraid to point. The following are a few common and delicious dishes you’ll find in Bangkok.
Som Tam Thai chefs use contrasting flavors to create balance in their cuisine. The popular green papaya salad is a good example, with dried shrimp, tart lime, salty fish sauce, crunchy peanuts, and long thin slices of green papaya. Pair it with sticky rice for a refreshing treat on a hot day.
Larb Another refreshing and flavorful shredded salad, larb (pronounced lahb) consists of ground meat or fish, lime, fish sauce, and a generous helping of aromatic kaffir lime leaves.
Pad Noodles come in many varieties at street carts, and vendors add their own twists. Noodle soups with meat or innards, though traditionally Chinese or Vietnamese, are common in Bangkok, as are pad khee mao (drunken noodles) with vegetables, shellfish, or meat, wok-singed and served without broth. If you’re in the Old City, stop by Raan Jay Fai, an open air restaurant with legendary pad khee mao—decadently big rice noodles with river prawns and basil.
Tom yum This delicious and aromatic water-based soup—flavored with fish sauce, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and vegetables—is a local favorite. Tom yum goong, with shrimp, is a popular variation.
Yang Thais love these marinated meat sticks, grilled over charcoal. Pork is usually the tastiest.
Will It Be Too Spicy?
Because most Thai cooks tone things down for foreigners, the biggest battle can sometimes be getting enough heat in your food. To be sure that your dish is spicy, ask for it phet phet (spicy); if you want it mild, request mai phet (less spicy). If you get a bite that’s too spicy, water won’t help—eat a bite of rice or something sweet.
You Want Me to Eat What?
Pan-fried, seasoned insects, such as ants, grasshoppers, and cockroaches, are popular snacks in Thailand. A plastic bag full of these crunchy delicacies will cost you about B20 or 50¢. To try your hand at insect-eating, start small. Little guys like ants are the most palatable, since they really just taste like whatever they’ve been flavored with (lime or chili, for example).
Cockroaches have a higher ick factor: You have to pull the legs and the wings off the larger ones. And stay away from the silkworm cocoons, which do not taste any better than they sound.
At fruit stalls in Bangkok you may find the durian, a husk-covered fruit famous for its unpleasant smell. In fact the scent, which is a bit like spicy body odor, is so overpowering that some Thai hotels don’t let you keep durians in your room. But don’t judge the durian by its smell alone: Many love the fruit’s puddinglike texture and intense tropical flavor, which is similar to passion fruit. Buy one at a fruit stand, ask the seller to cut it open, and taste its yellow flesh for yourself.