Southern Africa Green Season (Feb 06) Trip Report...Or How I Swam Thru Africa
Sep 5th, 2006, 08:35 AM
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Southern Africa Green Season (Feb 06) Trip Report...Or How I Swam Thru Africa
Better late than never! I’m always amazed to see all those trip reports being filed from airports on the way home. Because I travel on business 4 weeks out of 5, this has taken me a while to put together. Thanks for your patience. You’ll find my photos at http://sharontaylor.smugmug.com. There are two galleries with photos from this safari.
I was anxious to return to Botswana, having been there in 2000. I was hesitant about going in the green season, but my safari consultant had traveled there then and thought that photos with all that greenery would be great. One of his groups that had traveled there in February 2005 had a fabulous trip and so we looked forward to the same. Costs were a consideration, as well. As it happened, we hit the wettest rainy season they’ve had in 20 years…go figure!
JOHANNESBURG - SOWETO
Our foursome arrived in Jo’burg from four different departure points. We wanted to visit an orphanage, so Wilro Tours gave us a tour of Soweto. In addition to the usual sites, we visited the Carl Sithole Social Centre, run by the Salvation Army. They care for not only orphans, but also children from abusive homes. They also provide a lot of services for the general community, such as AIDS counseling. We overnighted at the Garden Court Hotel near the airport.
BOTSWANA - CHITABE
From Maun, we traveled to Chitabe, flying around and through thunderstorms. Despite the weather conditions, the flight was amazingly smooth. A herd of wildebeests flanked by a rainbow in a dark stormy sky greeted us. Naturally, my camera was packed away! It rained off and on for most of our stay in Botswana, but all the vehicles had tops on them, which, while not keeping us totally dry, helped a lot. Our guide Lazarus was an excellent driver and we never got stuck while negotiating the flooded roads. At times, we would drive up to a lake and then proceed to drive through it. On the way to camp from the airstrip, my friend pointed out a tree she thought would be a great place to find a leopard and she was right! We had a great experience before even arriving at camp.
The next morning, the weather was cloudy and cool. The smells of the bush, always enticing, seemed to be enhanced by the rains. We found lions on the airstrip, 2 males and a female. On the evening drive, we saw them again. One male was on his back, waving at us. Then we realized that he was just shooing flies; they were terrible! In the distance, we heard a leopard, took off and found a female calmly strolling along…another great sighting.
Giraffes were congregating in the area the next morning. Two were “neck fighting”, with what looked like a referee circling them. The “whump” was audible as each blow struck. Nearby was a lovely river with hippos swimming along, sun glinting on their backs. The giraffes were in Round 12 as we headed back to camp. The afternoon was wet, even for the lions. We found a lioness in a tree, trying to stay out of the wet grass. Eventually, she slid down the trunk to the ground and disappeared. After dinner, Celine and the staff of Chitabe surprised me with a birthday cake and the South African version of champagne. What a magical place to spend my birthday!
Next: Tubu Tree
I was anxious to return to Botswana, having been there in 2000. I was hesitant about going in the green season, but my safari consultant had traveled there then and thought that photos with all that greenery would be great. One of his groups that had traveled there in February 2005 had a fabulous trip and so we looked forward to the same. Costs were a consideration, as well. As it happened, we hit the wettest rainy season they’ve had in 20 years…go figure!
JOHANNESBURG - SOWETO
Our foursome arrived in Jo’burg from four different departure points. We wanted to visit an orphanage, so Wilro Tours gave us a tour of Soweto. In addition to the usual sites, we visited the Carl Sithole Social Centre, run by the Salvation Army. They care for not only orphans, but also children from abusive homes. They also provide a lot of services for the general community, such as AIDS counseling. We overnighted at the Garden Court Hotel near the airport.
BOTSWANA - CHITABE
From Maun, we traveled to Chitabe, flying around and through thunderstorms. Despite the weather conditions, the flight was amazingly smooth. A herd of wildebeests flanked by a rainbow in a dark stormy sky greeted us. Naturally, my camera was packed away! It rained off and on for most of our stay in Botswana, but all the vehicles had tops on them, which, while not keeping us totally dry, helped a lot. Our guide Lazarus was an excellent driver and we never got stuck while negotiating the flooded roads. At times, we would drive up to a lake and then proceed to drive through it. On the way to camp from the airstrip, my friend pointed out a tree she thought would be a great place to find a leopard and she was right! We had a great experience before even arriving at camp.
The next morning, the weather was cloudy and cool. The smells of the bush, always enticing, seemed to be enhanced by the rains. We found lions on the airstrip, 2 males and a female. On the evening drive, we saw them again. One male was on his back, waving at us. Then we realized that he was just shooing flies; they were terrible! In the distance, we heard a leopard, took off and found a female calmly strolling along…another great sighting.
Giraffes were congregating in the area the next morning. Two were “neck fighting”, with what looked like a referee circling them. The “whump” was audible as each blow struck. Nearby was a lovely river with hippos swimming along, sun glinting on their backs. The giraffes were in Round 12 as we headed back to camp. The afternoon was wet, even for the lions. We found a lioness in a tree, trying to stay out of the wet grass. Eventually, she slid down the trunk to the ground and disappeared. After dinner, Celine and the staff of Chitabe surprised me with a birthday cake and the South African version of champagne. What a magical place to spend my birthday!
Next: Tubu Tree
Sep 5th, 2006, 12:59 PM
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The locals said that the grass would begin to die back in March or April, even if the rains continued, so your trip in the shoulder season should be a good time to go. Also, the floods should be in the Delta and that's a magical time! I was in Botswana in August 2000 and enjoyed the mokoros.
Sep 5th, 2006, 03:39 PM
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Looking forward to our own Botswana/South Africa trip a year from now, and your photos have made me all the more eager. Some spectacular animal shots, for sure, and equally spectacular people photos. Love the photos of the kids, especially. Thanks so much for sharing.
Sep 11th, 2006, 05:52 PM
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Here's more...
BOTSWANA – TUBU TREE
It rained most of the night at Chitabe, so we “swam” to the airstrip for our flight to Tubu Tree. The staff was singing a welcome song as we drove in to camp. Managed by Anton and Carrie, Tubu Tree is smaller and more intimate than Chitabe. I thought that Grant, a camp manager I had met at Kwetsani, was at TT, but he is now leading WS’s Explorations mobile camps (Sorry, Kavey, I couldn’t say “Hi” for you.) Our guide Salani was personable and enthusiastic, but still relatively new (6 months on the job.)
Our evening drive led us to a large herd of elephants, something we hadn’t seen at Chitabe. They were obviously enjoying grazing on the lush grass. We followed leopard tracks, but never found the cat. What we did find, however was an African Wildcat, which I’d never seen during the day. As the sun began to disappear, Salani raced to reach a favorite “sundowner” spot. With all the thunderheads around, the sunset was fantastic. Even the sky opposite the sunset was various shades of pink. As we sat on our deck after dinner, we could see dozens of eyes glinting in our flashlights.
The next day, we see lots of wildebeests and zebras on the flood plains around the camp, the origin of all those eye shines. We saw a pair of tawny eagles perched on two dead palm tree trunks. They flew off in tandem, an amazing sight. After lunch, the ladies working at the camp brought out baskets that they had woven and demonstrated how they made them. The camaraderie between the ladies as they worked was evident. We had a great time shopping for baskets.
There were lots of giraffes in the wooded areas around the camp. They especially seemed to enjoy feeding on the vines wrapped around the trees. We drove some distance from camp to a waterway covered with water lilies. Hippos splashed in the water, grunting and yawning. There were a few red lechwes in the area, as well. On our way back to camp, we found our way blocked by a large bull elephant that was quite agitated, trumpeting and turning in circles. Giraffes were loping away and impalas were scattering…something had everyone upset. We looked to see if there was a predator in the area, but didn’t find anything.
When we arrived back at camp, we discovered that we would be dining by candlelight; the electrical system at the main tent was out. It was actually quite a lovely evening. I wasn’t feeling well and Anton thought it might be the Larium I was taking. He was quite surprised to hear that it was still prescribed in the US. I guess they don’t use it much in South Africa, where he was from.
BOTSWANA – TUBU TREE
It rained most of the night at Chitabe, so we “swam” to the airstrip for our flight to Tubu Tree. The staff was singing a welcome song as we drove in to camp. Managed by Anton and Carrie, Tubu Tree is smaller and more intimate than Chitabe. I thought that Grant, a camp manager I had met at Kwetsani, was at TT, but he is now leading WS’s Explorations mobile camps (Sorry, Kavey, I couldn’t say “Hi” for you.) Our guide Salani was personable and enthusiastic, but still relatively new (6 months on the job.)
Our evening drive led us to a large herd of elephants, something we hadn’t seen at Chitabe. They were obviously enjoying grazing on the lush grass. We followed leopard tracks, but never found the cat. What we did find, however was an African Wildcat, which I’d never seen during the day. As the sun began to disappear, Salani raced to reach a favorite “sundowner” spot. With all the thunderheads around, the sunset was fantastic. Even the sky opposite the sunset was various shades of pink. As we sat on our deck after dinner, we could see dozens of eyes glinting in our flashlights.
The next day, we see lots of wildebeests and zebras on the flood plains around the camp, the origin of all those eye shines. We saw a pair of tawny eagles perched on two dead palm tree trunks. They flew off in tandem, an amazing sight. After lunch, the ladies working at the camp brought out baskets that they had woven and demonstrated how they made them. The camaraderie between the ladies as they worked was evident. We had a great time shopping for baskets.
There were lots of giraffes in the wooded areas around the camp. They especially seemed to enjoy feeding on the vines wrapped around the trees. We drove some distance from camp to a waterway covered with water lilies. Hippos splashed in the water, grunting and yawning. There were a few red lechwes in the area, as well. On our way back to camp, we found our way blocked by a large bull elephant that was quite agitated, trumpeting and turning in circles. Giraffes were loping away and impalas were scattering…something had everyone upset. We looked to see if there was a predator in the area, but didn’t find anything.
When we arrived back at camp, we discovered that we would be dining by candlelight; the electrical system at the main tent was out. It was actually quite a lovely evening. I wasn’t feeling well and Anton thought it might be the Larium I was taking. He was quite surprised to hear that it was still prescribed in the US. I guess they don’t use it much in South Africa, where he was from.
Sep 11th, 2006, 05:53 PM
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BOTSWANA – KINGS POOL
We had two pilots in our little “mosquito” plane to Kings Pool. Our pilot was in training… not how to fly, but how to navigate the Delta. Whew! We were originally scheduled to stay in Duma Tau, but the camp was closed for repairs due to the heavy rains. Wilderness upgraded us to Kings Pool…oh, darn! Our tent was HUGE, with more furniture than my house. The plunge pool and sala were really inviting on a warm afternoon. We lazed around, watching hippos grazing on the opposite side of the lagoon.
On our first game drive, we found elephants along the river. The next morning, we went looking for a leopard near the camp. The monkeys were going crazy, so we knew it was in the area. When we didn’t flush it out, our guide Cilas decided to leave. We hadn’t gone far when we got the word that the cat had been spotted. I wasn’t happy that we had left and we only caught a quick glimpse when we returned. Later in the morning we saw a pair of bat-eared foxes, which are amazing-looking creatures. On the afternoon drive, we took Ike a guide in training with us. Ike and a couple of our group starting cracking up about baboon mating habits. Cilas tried to restore some decorum to the evening, without much success. We stopped for our sundowners next to the river. As he began to prepare the G & Ts, Cilas discovered that he had forgotten the “G”…wine, it is!
The next day, Cilas decided that we might find more game in the Savuti Channel area, so we took an all day game drive to that area. As we got to the channel area, carmine bee-eaters swooped along-side of us, catching insects that we stirred up. This area was Cilas’ home turf and he redeemed himself. He found a pride of lions (1 male, 4 females, 4 cubs) that we watched for a while. He called one of the lionesses “the killing machine” because of her hunting prowess. She was odd-looking; black-rimmed eyes gave her a sinister appearance. Soon, a herd of zebras began to approach. Caught out in the open, one lioness slunk into the tall grass. The zebras approached cautiously, caught the lions’ scent, and took off. We had lunch at a raised platform on the channel. On the way back, he spotted a couple of shy cheetahs. They didn’t hang around look enough for us to get a good look at them. At one waterhole, we saw several elephants. One of the young ones had no trunk. It was still nursing, but probably wouldn’t live very long…so sad!
The sky got darker and darker as we headed back to Kings Pool. Then the skies opened and it poured, with the rain blowing sideways. I managed to keep my camera gear dry next to my stomach, but that was about the only thing that was dry. We were looking forward to drying off back at camp, but…no such luck. No one had bothered to put any of the tents’ window flaps down and all the tents were soaking wet inside. Also, the electricity was out, a result of water in the electrical plug. We wiped off everything as best we could, but we were NOT impressed with how the camp managers handled the situation. They didn’t seem to care, which was a shame, given the beautiful furnishings at the camp. It took a couple of trips to the office before we got any help. While we waited for assistance, I sat out on the deck. The storm had torn loose rafts of papyrus, which were floating on the lagoon. One hippo was amusing itself, pushing a raft around like a pool toy.
The next morning, I was the only one that went out for the game drive. Everyone else in our group decided they had gotten wet enough the day before. Other than the usual baboon, giraffes, and impalas, Cilas found a dead puff adder in the road. He thought perhaps it had drowned…ya think?! Cilas was an excellent, good-humored guide. He’s told us saving up for a bride price.
We had two pilots in our little “mosquito” plane to Kings Pool. Our pilot was in training… not how to fly, but how to navigate the Delta. Whew! We were originally scheduled to stay in Duma Tau, but the camp was closed for repairs due to the heavy rains. Wilderness upgraded us to Kings Pool…oh, darn! Our tent was HUGE, with more furniture than my house. The plunge pool and sala were really inviting on a warm afternoon. We lazed around, watching hippos grazing on the opposite side of the lagoon.
On our first game drive, we found elephants along the river. The next morning, we went looking for a leopard near the camp. The monkeys were going crazy, so we knew it was in the area. When we didn’t flush it out, our guide Cilas decided to leave. We hadn’t gone far when we got the word that the cat had been spotted. I wasn’t happy that we had left and we only caught a quick glimpse when we returned. Later in the morning we saw a pair of bat-eared foxes, which are amazing-looking creatures. On the afternoon drive, we took Ike a guide in training with us. Ike and a couple of our group starting cracking up about baboon mating habits. Cilas tried to restore some decorum to the evening, without much success. We stopped for our sundowners next to the river. As he began to prepare the G & Ts, Cilas discovered that he had forgotten the “G”…wine, it is!
The next day, Cilas decided that we might find more game in the Savuti Channel area, so we took an all day game drive to that area. As we got to the channel area, carmine bee-eaters swooped along-side of us, catching insects that we stirred up. This area was Cilas’ home turf and he redeemed himself. He found a pride of lions (1 male, 4 females, 4 cubs) that we watched for a while. He called one of the lionesses “the killing machine” because of her hunting prowess. She was odd-looking; black-rimmed eyes gave her a sinister appearance. Soon, a herd of zebras began to approach. Caught out in the open, one lioness slunk into the tall grass. The zebras approached cautiously, caught the lions’ scent, and took off. We had lunch at a raised platform on the channel. On the way back, he spotted a couple of shy cheetahs. They didn’t hang around look enough for us to get a good look at them. At one waterhole, we saw several elephants. One of the young ones had no trunk. It was still nursing, but probably wouldn’t live very long…so sad!
The sky got darker and darker as we headed back to Kings Pool. Then the skies opened and it poured, with the rain blowing sideways. I managed to keep my camera gear dry next to my stomach, but that was about the only thing that was dry. We were looking forward to drying off back at camp, but…no such luck. No one had bothered to put any of the tents’ window flaps down and all the tents were soaking wet inside. Also, the electricity was out, a result of water in the electrical plug. We wiped off everything as best we could, but we were NOT impressed with how the camp managers handled the situation. They didn’t seem to care, which was a shame, given the beautiful furnishings at the camp. It took a couple of trips to the office before we got any help. While we waited for assistance, I sat out on the deck. The storm had torn loose rafts of papyrus, which were floating on the lagoon. One hippo was amusing itself, pushing a raft around like a pool toy.
The next morning, I was the only one that went out for the game drive. Everyone else in our group decided they had gotten wet enough the day before. Other than the usual baboon, giraffes, and impalas, Cilas found a dead puff adder in the road. He thought perhaps it had drowned…ya think?! Cilas was an excellent, good-humored guide. He’s told us saving up for a bride price.
Sep 17th, 2006, 07:29 PM
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Dear Sharon,
Your posts are timely for me -- considering honeymooning safari in Botswana and South Africa in February 2007. Looks like the weather in Botswana, and the down-season service, leaves something to be desired. Any thoughts/advice for whether we should risk the weather?
How about South Africa? Your posts mention Botswana, but I noticed on your website it looks like you also safari'd in South Africa. Was there similar weather and service issues in South African safari outfits?
Thank you very much,
Mike
Your posts are timely for me -- considering honeymooning safari in Botswana and South Africa in February 2007. Looks like the weather in Botswana, and the down-season service, leaves something to be desired. Any thoughts/advice for whether we should risk the weather?
How about South Africa? Your posts mention Botswana, but I noticed on your website it looks like you also safari'd in South Africa. Was there similar weather and service issues in South African safari outfits?
Thank you very much,
Mike
Sep 18th, 2006, 10:39 AM
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Hi Mike. I've addressed some of these issues on your other post. The issues at Kings Pool were totally unlike Wilderness Safaris. That's why we were so shocked. The main "weather" issue we had at Kirkman's was that the river was often too high to drive across...still we had great sightings. That would not be an issue at, say, MalaMala, which has a bridge across the river. It was quite warm and humid, though.
Cape Town was great...their weather patterns are opposite the lowveld (Kruger/Sabi Sands.) It's their dry season...similar to Southern California in the summer. One day was perfectly clear and the next, everything was wrapped in fog.
All told, I'd recommend Tanzania over southern Africa in February.
Cape Town was great...their weather patterns are opposite the lowveld (Kruger/Sabi Sands.) It's their dry season...similar to Southern California in the summer. One day was perfectly clear and the next, everything was wrapped in fog.
All told, I'd recommend Tanzania over southern Africa in February.
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