It's a start... Sandi's - Trip Report - Tanzania/Kenya, May/June 2006
Aug 2nd, 2006, 05:48 AM
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It's a start... Sandi's - Trip Report - Tanzania/Kenya, May/June 2006
Here's the itinerary; below the intro and then the report... at least a start, and will fill in as it comes together. For those not familiar, this is my 12th year visiting Africa, mostly East Africa, though in Southern Africa in 2001. You won't find much about game viewing, as this was mostly an "educational" visit (Julian's reference), so much about our accommodations and people/friends along the way. Hope you enjoy, as we sure did!
Tanzania and Kenya – 2006
24 May, Wed Lv. New York (JFK) 6:10pm
25 May, Thu Arv. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania (JRO) 8pm - Kibo Palace
26 May, Fri Day in Arusha
27 May, Sat Scheduled flight to Nairobi, Kenya (NBO)- House of Waine (in Karen)
28 May, Sun Scheduled flight (via Nanyuki); Private Charter flight to Kowop/Mt. Nyiru - Desert Rose
29 May, Mon Desert Rose
30 May, Tue Desert Rose
31 May, Wed Private Charter flight (via Nanyuki); Scheduled flight to NBO - Drive to Shompole - Shompole
01 Jun, Thu Shompole
02 Jun, Fri Private Charter flight to Tsavo, West - Finch Hatton’s Camp
03 Jun, Sat Finch Hatton’s Camp
04 Jun, Sun Scheduled flight to Nairobi; Scheduled flight to Masai Mara - Richard’s Camp
05 Jun, Mon Road transfer to Saruni Camp
06 Jun, Tue Saruni Camp; Scheduled flight to Nairobi; transfer to JKIA
Lv. NBO (via AMS) 10pm
07 Jun, Wed Arv. New York (ERW) 12N
On the road again… or should I say, “in the air again.” Began thinking about our 2006 trip, for period at end-May/beginning-June, upon our return from our 2005 visit...but, seriously in November ’05. However, business intruded and details as to where, when, how long, drive/fly, etc., we didn’t finalize our plans till late April ‘06. Though traveling in these months makes it relatively easy to find the accommodations we wanted... it’s always better to plan ahead and book early.
Once the itinerary was confirmed, we then had to buy our International flights and fortunate for us, departing a day before the fares increased due to the Memorial Day holiday week-end, were able to obtain reasonable airfares… a few dollars more than in 2005, at $1,250-$1,300.
Susan would be departing BOS (via AMS) me from JFK, both into JRO. My layover would be 3-hrs; Susan’s 2-hrs. Since we’d be on the same flight out of AMS to JRO, I called KLM for seats together (actually across the aisle from one another) … hakuna matata.
And, though Susan decided to get her Tanzania visa ahead of time and Kenya on-site; I’d get both visas on landing in each country.
Now we’re set for another adventure.
We decided on the camps to visit, based on our “dream” lodges/camps. Susan had been dreaming of Desert Rose for years and me of Shompole. Though both properties and areas are off the standard tourist routes, they are ideal for return visitors or those first-timers, seeking something “different.”
Finch Hatton’s was based on the fact that even though we hoped to visit years earlier, neither of us had yet managed to get there. We initially thought to visit Tsavo East, staying at Galdessa, but Galdessa would be closed in May... so that was out. And though the final schedule worked out where we could have visited Galdessa in June, by this time and being somewhat behind in planning, we stayed with Finch Hatton’s and were very pleased with this decision. Galdessa will have to wait till “next time.”
Unfortunately, Susan had limited time for this trip, so she wouldn’t be able to get out to the Mara. For my part, I couldn’t be in Kenya without visiting the Mara. So while she’d be departing after our stay in Tsavo, I arranged for 2-days in the Mara. Short yes, but I knew it would be worthwhile. So I added Richard’s Camp and a return visit to Saruni Camp.
Now we’re set... or not!
Exactly 10-days prior departure (a Monday), I got out of bed and experienced a shooting pain in my lower right leg. Immediate PANIC! Moving about or massaging the leg didn’t change the tingling and downright pain. All I could recall was 4 to 5-years earlier the same sensations, which at that time was determined to be lack of cartelidge in my right hip… not a fracture or break, but no gook for smooth movement of the joint – it was bone-on-bone. I had the hip replaced and was good as new in less than a week and have been fine since.
Not wanting to experience a similar episode, I called my surgeon for an appointment, but due to his surgical schedule couldn’t get into see him for three-days. In the meantime, reality hit and I began to think that if something was wrong with the hip, I wouldn’t be able to walk, but walk I could walk...so what’s up? But trudge on I did, till Thursday.
I knew that I did not want to cancel this trip and if I had to be drugged, then drugged I’d be. So the next call was to my personal physician for a double-dose script of extra strength Vicodin (no, I’m not related to or have any connection to Rush Limbaugh), which I had been taking for back pain for too many years. My doctor is wonderful and I had my pills next day.
Next day, Tuesday, I told Susan what was happening and like me, she didn’t want to cancel if for some reason I was advised “absolutely no traveling.” I also contacted the folks in Tanzania and Kenya about what was going on... that I might have to cancel, but would know for certain by Thursday. Everyone was understanding and hoped I'd be would be fine, as we were all looking forward to this visit.
Needless to say, until I knew what was what with the leg, I was very upset and not all that pleasant to be around.
Thursday couldn’t get come fast enough, but it wound up being a good day. X-rays showed that the hip was perfectly fine; the prognosis being a sprain, muscle trauma or one of those weird things the body does that makes one freak-out, which I was already doing... it would heal in its own good time. Giving the doctor, who I call “my Dr. McDreamy” a big kiss, I asked for another script for Vicodin which he was pleased to write. There was no way I was going to be thousands of miles from home, in constant pain, sans drugs. The last thing the doctor suggested was that I consider a collapsible cane (I was ahead of him on this). Agreeing with and telling him I’d be requesting wheelchair assistance at the airports, gave him a good chuckle!
Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport is very civilized, with moving sidewalks and ease of transfer from gate-to-gate and terminal-to-terminal, but not so at JFK or EWR. Call me lazy! Call me a princess! Just get me to the gate on time, and I’ll do fine from there. Once on board, I knew I had aisle seats on all flights, so plenty of room to extend the leg.
Next day, I had a lovely neon-blue cane, made arrangements for wheelchair assistance, notified everyone I’d survive, and would see them in a few days!
NOW I’M READY FOR AFREE-KAH! IS AFREE-KAH READY FOR ME?
Day 1 - Wednesday, May 24, 2006
Day 2 – Thursday, May 25, 2006
Arriving at JRK with a duffle bag, the Skycap took my bag inside and placed it right in front of an agent, waiting my turn to check-in. Boarding pass in-hand, an attendant was waiting with a wheelchair while another brought my duffle to the scanner and off we want to my gate. All very simple. As usual, I'm flying KLM to AMS, we push back from the gate at 6:10pm, we taxi and sit on the runway, not airborne until 1-1/2 hours later. With very strong tailwinds, I was surprised how quickly we were across the pond, barely enough sleep… only 20-minutes late arriving AMS (instead of 7:30am, at 7:50am). Deplaning there was a cart waiting for me, but the connecting flight’s gate was immediately across from where we landed... so I thanked the attendant - I didn’t need it!
Figuring Susan would be arriving in about half-hour, I stopped for a cigarette, which in AMS is very easy to do. I checked my watch, 8:30am – no Susan; 9am – no Susan; 9:30am and still no Susan... no flight from BOS. So I hobbled over to the gate, went thru security and boarded the ongoing flight. Due to depart at 10:30am, it’s almost 10:20am when I see Susan negotiating her way down the aisle. Her flight had arrived at 10am, at the far end of the terminal... having been delayed over two-hours leaving BOS.
She had already been contemplating her options – how to get to JRO if she missed the connection: hopefully get on the flight to NBO (which departs 15-min. or half-hour later from AMS); on arrival NBO, connect, with luck to the last Precision flight to JRO. We both knew that last Precision flight would be long gone if she had landed in NBO... but you’ve got to consider everything. Thankfully, she didn’t have to resort to extremes.
Ensconced in our seats, we’re in the air on time. An uneventful flight - we took off, we landed. Just short of 8-hours, we walked out (no jetways at JRO) into the African night and taking a deep breath – well worth all that had transpired the past 10-days.
Down the stairs, into the terminal, Susan heads to the “got visa” queue, and me to the “have to get” queue. Three windows for the former, one for the latter. My queue was rather long, and me towards the end, but though Susan had her passport stamped before me, and out to collect her bag... I was the last person (took about 20-minutes) to Baggage Claim to find a lonely duffle bag. Onto a cart and when I walked outside there was Susan holding the placard with my name on it. She had already met our guide/driver, our dear friend Sal and decided to play welcome committee. With lots of laughs and hugs and kisses we walked to our waiting vehicle.
Susan so wanted to drive, having been on this road too may times, but Sal wouldn’t give up the keys. The night was beautiful, warm, clear skies – we were back in Afree-kah! With little vehicle traffic and some foot traffic, about 40-minutes later, we pull up to the entry of the Kibo Palace Hotel.
As we got out of the vehicle, we’re greeted by a little angel, up way past her bedtime, with lovely baskets of roses – one for each of us. She wanted to stay up to see her aunties from America! With welcome greetings all around, her parents took her home to bed, while we checked-in. But not before we were told “do not go to bed,” we’ll be right back for dinner.”
Dinner – food, too much food would follow this first meal wherever we were during this trip.
The Kibo Palace is a relatively new 5-story hotel, with lovely rooms, two three-quarter twin beds, sitting area, TV, mini-fridge, bathroom with tub, shower stall and hairdryers. Décor is contemporary, with African accessories. First thing we did was open the windows which did have screens, turn down our beds, freshen up somewhat and return to the lobby for dinner. Here we met the hotel owner for a brief chat, then into the dining room. By 11:30pm after a shower to wash off the "eau de Boeing" (or Airbus), we’re both in dreamland.
Day 3 – Friday, May 26, 2006
Jet lag or not… probably not, we’re up early and down for breakfast by 8am. By 8:30am we’re picked up and on our way to school. Yes, we’re taking the little one to her private school, where we were introduced to the teachers and all her classmates. We then head to the office and greeted by the staff and find coffee/tea waiting for us.
Spent about two or more hours with business and broke again for coffee, at which time I want outside for a break.
Interesting – when we entered the gate earlier, there was a guy (on foot) who looked at me and gave me a hearty “hello” to which I responded in kind. Who was that, I wondered?
Outside, I see the same guy who walks over to me, at which point I realize who it is. It’s Ernst, our guide from last year’s visit at Kirawira. How nice that he recognized me immediately and now I greeted him properly. He was in Arusha interviewing for a position as a guide/driver. Having spent 10-years in the bush, he felt it was time to be close to his family in Arusha. Conversation was great and nice to catch up.
Late morning, Sal met us for a drive across Arusha to the Arusha Coffee Lodge, which is on a beautiful coffee plantation; great cottages – large, with a sitting area, fireplace, separate well appointed bathroom and the sleeping area “just to die for.” A lovely pool and outdoor dining area.
Returning from here we head to our hosts home for lunch, where a lovely meal awaits. Food and more food, even a chocolate cake from a fantastic bakery in Arusha... a special occasion? Of course, Susan and I were visiting.
Lunch concluded, Sal met us for an afternoon of site inspections. Our first stop was to the Moivaro Coffee Lodge, also on a coffee plantation, with individual cottages with twin and king bedrooms, bathrooms with showers, a fireplace in a separate living room area. The rooms are smaller than those at Arusha Coffee Lodge, but another nice property (a bit less manicured), with a pool and indoor and outdoor dining areas.
Further down the road we stopped at Arumeru Lodge. A relatively new property, modern construction of their bungalows, spread out around beautifully large landscaped lawns. Accommodations are kings and twins, all with an alcove for an additional twin bed to accommodate triples. The owners happened to have been here and were pleased to give us a personal tour.
Concluding our visit, we thanked our hosts and drove a short distance on the same road to Rivertrees. Unlike the earlier property, this one is set under the trees, so it’s cool; many of the buildings are original of former private estate. The added buildings were built to match the originals. All rooms/cottages are large in every sense. Big bedrooms, most with king beds or two doubles/queens; day-beds available for triples/quads (adults or children). The bathrooms are large with showers, some with tubs, plenty of lighting.
The staff were in the process of preparing for an upcoming wedding as we could see from the tables settings and trimmings on the chairs; a dance floor. All areas covered if by chance it would rain.
Both of these properties are located on the road between JRO and Arusha, and excellent options for late overseas arrivals, if visitors rather not drive 40 to 50-minutes into Arusha.
The closest hotel to JRO is the KIA Lodge, right outside the airport, now under new management and due for refurbishing.
It’s late afternoon, so we're on our way back to Arusha, where we say our goodbyes. He’s leaving the following morning on safari... lucky clients.
Back in our room, we have our first real opportunity to relax until dinner. Oh so nice to put the dogs up and do nothing for awhile. But this doesn’t last. By 8pm we’re picked up for dinner and drive to Pepe’s where we again stuffed our faces. Choices were Italian or Indian fare, both excellent and lots of fun with plenty of elbow bending.
Dinner concluded, we went to pick up the little one from grandma. You guessed, first thing upon entering... we’re offered dessert and coffee. Please, please… no more food. This worldwide custom of offering guests food is wonderful and indicative of “we like you, welcome to our home, eat!” We were being liked a bit too much. We thanked our host, but there was no way I’d consider coffee (I’d never sleep and we had an early wake-up next morning). We chattered for awhile, then gathered up the little one and headed back to the hotel.
In the lobby, we said our goodbyes… too short a visit, but we were off to Kenya tomorrow.
Tanzania and Kenya – 2006
24 May, Wed Lv. New York (JFK) 6:10pm
25 May, Thu Arv. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania (JRO) 8pm - Kibo Palace
26 May, Fri Day in Arusha
27 May, Sat Scheduled flight to Nairobi, Kenya (NBO)- House of Waine (in Karen)
28 May, Sun Scheduled flight (via Nanyuki); Private Charter flight to Kowop/Mt. Nyiru - Desert Rose
29 May, Mon Desert Rose
30 May, Tue Desert Rose
31 May, Wed Private Charter flight (via Nanyuki); Scheduled flight to NBO - Drive to Shompole - Shompole
01 Jun, Thu Shompole
02 Jun, Fri Private Charter flight to Tsavo, West - Finch Hatton’s Camp
03 Jun, Sat Finch Hatton’s Camp
04 Jun, Sun Scheduled flight to Nairobi; Scheduled flight to Masai Mara - Richard’s Camp
05 Jun, Mon Road transfer to Saruni Camp
06 Jun, Tue Saruni Camp; Scheduled flight to Nairobi; transfer to JKIA
Lv. NBO (via AMS) 10pm
07 Jun, Wed Arv. New York (ERW) 12N
On the road again… or should I say, “in the air again.” Began thinking about our 2006 trip, for period at end-May/beginning-June, upon our return from our 2005 visit...but, seriously in November ’05. However, business intruded and details as to where, when, how long, drive/fly, etc., we didn’t finalize our plans till late April ‘06. Though traveling in these months makes it relatively easy to find the accommodations we wanted... it’s always better to plan ahead and book early.
Once the itinerary was confirmed, we then had to buy our International flights and fortunate for us, departing a day before the fares increased due to the Memorial Day holiday week-end, were able to obtain reasonable airfares… a few dollars more than in 2005, at $1,250-$1,300.
Susan would be departing BOS (via AMS) me from JFK, both into JRO. My layover would be 3-hrs; Susan’s 2-hrs. Since we’d be on the same flight out of AMS to JRO, I called KLM for seats together (actually across the aisle from one another) … hakuna matata.
And, though Susan decided to get her Tanzania visa ahead of time and Kenya on-site; I’d get both visas on landing in each country.
Now we’re set for another adventure.
We decided on the camps to visit, based on our “dream” lodges/camps. Susan had been dreaming of Desert Rose for years and me of Shompole. Though both properties and areas are off the standard tourist routes, they are ideal for return visitors or those first-timers, seeking something “different.”
Finch Hatton’s was based on the fact that even though we hoped to visit years earlier, neither of us had yet managed to get there. We initially thought to visit Tsavo East, staying at Galdessa, but Galdessa would be closed in May... so that was out. And though the final schedule worked out where we could have visited Galdessa in June, by this time and being somewhat behind in planning, we stayed with Finch Hatton’s and were very pleased with this decision. Galdessa will have to wait till “next time.”
Unfortunately, Susan had limited time for this trip, so she wouldn’t be able to get out to the Mara. For my part, I couldn’t be in Kenya without visiting the Mara. So while she’d be departing after our stay in Tsavo, I arranged for 2-days in the Mara. Short yes, but I knew it would be worthwhile. So I added Richard’s Camp and a return visit to Saruni Camp.
Now we’re set... or not!
Exactly 10-days prior departure (a Monday), I got out of bed and experienced a shooting pain in my lower right leg. Immediate PANIC! Moving about or massaging the leg didn’t change the tingling and downright pain. All I could recall was 4 to 5-years earlier the same sensations, which at that time was determined to be lack of cartelidge in my right hip… not a fracture or break, but no gook for smooth movement of the joint – it was bone-on-bone. I had the hip replaced and was good as new in less than a week and have been fine since.
Not wanting to experience a similar episode, I called my surgeon for an appointment, but due to his surgical schedule couldn’t get into see him for three-days. In the meantime, reality hit and I began to think that if something was wrong with the hip, I wouldn’t be able to walk, but walk I could walk...so what’s up? But trudge on I did, till Thursday.
I knew that I did not want to cancel this trip and if I had to be drugged, then drugged I’d be. So the next call was to my personal physician for a double-dose script of extra strength Vicodin (no, I’m not related to or have any connection to Rush Limbaugh), which I had been taking for back pain for too many years. My doctor is wonderful and I had my pills next day.
Next day, Tuesday, I told Susan what was happening and like me, she didn’t want to cancel if for some reason I was advised “absolutely no traveling.” I also contacted the folks in Tanzania and Kenya about what was going on... that I might have to cancel, but would know for certain by Thursday. Everyone was understanding and hoped I'd be would be fine, as we were all looking forward to this visit.
Needless to say, until I knew what was what with the leg, I was very upset and not all that pleasant to be around.
Thursday couldn’t get come fast enough, but it wound up being a good day. X-rays showed that the hip was perfectly fine; the prognosis being a sprain, muscle trauma or one of those weird things the body does that makes one freak-out, which I was already doing... it would heal in its own good time. Giving the doctor, who I call “my Dr. McDreamy” a big kiss, I asked for another script for Vicodin which he was pleased to write. There was no way I was going to be thousands of miles from home, in constant pain, sans drugs. The last thing the doctor suggested was that I consider a collapsible cane (I was ahead of him on this). Agreeing with and telling him I’d be requesting wheelchair assistance at the airports, gave him a good chuckle!
Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport is very civilized, with moving sidewalks and ease of transfer from gate-to-gate and terminal-to-terminal, but not so at JFK or EWR. Call me lazy! Call me a princess! Just get me to the gate on time, and I’ll do fine from there. Once on board, I knew I had aisle seats on all flights, so plenty of room to extend the leg.
Next day, I had a lovely neon-blue cane, made arrangements for wheelchair assistance, notified everyone I’d survive, and would see them in a few days!
NOW I’M READY FOR AFREE-KAH! IS AFREE-KAH READY FOR ME?
Day 1 - Wednesday, May 24, 2006
Day 2 – Thursday, May 25, 2006
Arriving at JRK with a duffle bag, the Skycap took my bag inside and placed it right in front of an agent, waiting my turn to check-in. Boarding pass in-hand, an attendant was waiting with a wheelchair while another brought my duffle to the scanner and off we want to my gate. All very simple. As usual, I'm flying KLM to AMS, we push back from the gate at 6:10pm, we taxi and sit on the runway, not airborne until 1-1/2 hours later. With very strong tailwinds, I was surprised how quickly we were across the pond, barely enough sleep… only 20-minutes late arriving AMS (instead of 7:30am, at 7:50am). Deplaning there was a cart waiting for me, but the connecting flight’s gate was immediately across from where we landed... so I thanked the attendant - I didn’t need it!
Figuring Susan would be arriving in about half-hour, I stopped for a cigarette, which in AMS is very easy to do. I checked my watch, 8:30am – no Susan; 9am – no Susan; 9:30am and still no Susan... no flight from BOS. So I hobbled over to the gate, went thru security and boarded the ongoing flight. Due to depart at 10:30am, it’s almost 10:20am when I see Susan negotiating her way down the aisle. Her flight had arrived at 10am, at the far end of the terminal... having been delayed over two-hours leaving BOS.
She had already been contemplating her options – how to get to JRO if she missed the connection: hopefully get on the flight to NBO (which departs 15-min. or half-hour later from AMS); on arrival NBO, connect, with luck to the last Precision flight to JRO. We both knew that last Precision flight would be long gone if she had landed in NBO... but you’ve got to consider everything. Thankfully, she didn’t have to resort to extremes.
Ensconced in our seats, we’re in the air on time. An uneventful flight - we took off, we landed. Just short of 8-hours, we walked out (no jetways at JRO) into the African night and taking a deep breath – well worth all that had transpired the past 10-days.
Down the stairs, into the terminal, Susan heads to the “got visa” queue, and me to the “have to get” queue. Three windows for the former, one for the latter. My queue was rather long, and me towards the end, but though Susan had her passport stamped before me, and out to collect her bag... I was the last person (took about 20-minutes) to Baggage Claim to find a lonely duffle bag. Onto a cart and when I walked outside there was Susan holding the placard with my name on it. She had already met our guide/driver, our dear friend Sal and decided to play welcome committee. With lots of laughs and hugs and kisses we walked to our waiting vehicle.
Susan so wanted to drive, having been on this road too may times, but Sal wouldn’t give up the keys. The night was beautiful, warm, clear skies – we were back in Afree-kah! With little vehicle traffic and some foot traffic, about 40-minutes later, we pull up to the entry of the Kibo Palace Hotel.
As we got out of the vehicle, we’re greeted by a little angel, up way past her bedtime, with lovely baskets of roses – one for each of us. She wanted to stay up to see her aunties from America! With welcome greetings all around, her parents took her home to bed, while we checked-in. But not before we were told “do not go to bed,” we’ll be right back for dinner.”
Dinner – food, too much food would follow this first meal wherever we were during this trip.
The Kibo Palace is a relatively new 5-story hotel, with lovely rooms, two three-quarter twin beds, sitting area, TV, mini-fridge, bathroom with tub, shower stall and hairdryers. Décor is contemporary, with African accessories. First thing we did was open the windows which did have screens, turn down our beds, freshen up somewhat and return to the lobby for dinner. Here we met the hotel owner for a brief chat, then into the dining room. By 11:30pm after a shower to wash off the "eau de Boeing" (or Airbus), we’re both in dreamland.
Day 3 – Friday, May 26, 2006
Jet lag or not… probably not, we’re up early and down for breakfast by 8am. By 8:30am we’re picked up and on our way to school. Yes, we’re taking the little one to her private school, where we were introduced to the teachers and all her classmates. We then head to the office and greeted by the staff and find coffee/tea waiting for us.
Spent about two or more hours with business and broke again for coffee, at which time I want outside for a break.
Interesting – when we entered the gate earlier, there was a guy (on foot) who looked at me and gave me a hearty “hello” to which I responded in kind. Who was that, I wondered?
Outside, I see the same guy who walks over to me, at which point I realize who it is. It’s Ernst, our guide from last year’s visit at Kirawira. How nice that he recognized me immediately and now I greeted him properly. He was in Arusha interviewing for a position as a guide/driver. Having spent 10-years in the bush, he felt it was time to be close to his family in Arusha. Conversation was great and nice to catch up.
Late morning, Sal met us for a drive across Arusha to the Arusha Coffee Lodge, which is on a beautiful coffee plantation; great cottages – large, with a sitting area, fireplace, separate well appointed bathroom and the sleeping area “just to die for.” A lovely pool and outdoor dining area.
Returning from here we head to our hosts home for lunch, where a lovely meal awaits. Food and more food, even a chocolate cake from a fantastic bakery in Arusha... a special occasion? Of course, Susan and I were visiting.
Lunch concluded, Sal met us for an afternoon of site inspections. Our first stop was to the Moivaro Coffee Lodge, also on a coffee plantation, with individual cottages with twin and king bedrooms, bathrooms with showers, a fireplace in a separate living room area. The rooms are smaller than those at Arusha Coffee Lodge, but another nice property (a bit less manicured), with a pool and indoor and outdoor dining areas.
Further down the road we stopped at Arumeru Lodge. A relatively new property, modern construction of their bungalows, spread out around beautifully large landscaped lawns. Accommodations are kings and twins, all with an alcove for an additional twin bed to accommodate triples. The owners happened to have been here and were pleased to give us a personal tour.
Concluding our visit, we thanked our hosts and drove a short distance on the same road to Rivertrees. Unlike the earlier property, this one is set under the trees, so it’s cool; many of the buildings are original of former private estate. The added buildings were built to match the originals. All rooms/cottages are large in every sense. Big bedrooms, most with king beds or two doubles/queens; day-beds available for triples/quads (adults or children). The bathrooms are large with showers, some with tubs, plenty of lighting.
The staff were in the process of preparing for an upcoming wedding as we could see from the tables settings and trimmings on the chairs; a dance floor. All areas covered if by chance it would rain.
Both of these properties are located on the road between JRO and Arusha, and excellent options for late overseas arrivals, if visitors rather not drive 40 to 50-minutes into Arusha.
The closest hotel to JRO is the KIA Lodge, right outside the airport, now under new management and due for refurbishing.
It’s late afternoon, so we're on our way back to Arusha, where we say our goodbyes. He’s leaving the following morning on safari... lucky clients.
Back in our room, we have our first real opportunity to relax until dinner. Oh so nice to put the dogs up and do nothing for awhile. But this doesn’t last. By 8pm we’re picked up for dinner and drive to Pepe’s where we again stuffed our faces. Choices were Italian or Indian fare, both excellent and lots of fun with plenty of elbow bending.
Dinner concluded, we went to pick up the little one from grandma. You guessed, first thing upon entering... we’re offered dessert and coffee. Please, please… no more food. This worldwide custom of offering guests food is wonderful and indicative of “we like you, welcome to our home, eat!” We were being liked a bit too much. We thanked our host, but there was no way I’d consider coffee (I’d never sleep and we had an early wake-up next morning). We chattered for awhile, then gathered up the little one and headed back to the hotel.
In the lobby, we said our goodbyes… too short a visit, but we were off to Kenya tomorrow.
Aug 2nd, 2006, 06:09 AM
#3
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Twelve years of traveling to Africa - you are my role model!! What a fortunate soul - however do you manage to make it so frequently?? Your trip sounds divine - the camps superb. I applaud you for venturing onward with pain - it would be a tough one to cancel and watch the plane go off without you (sniff...). The trip sounds wonderful so far, can't wait to see pictures. For a newbie like me, reports like yours set up my dreams!
/
Aug 2nd, 2006, 01:11 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
cindy -
I hope I get to Richard's Camp (which was next to last) before you depart on your trip. But, in brief, Richard's is lovely, with great hosts, guides, delicious food; fantastic gift shop with quite a few unusual items (reasonable prices). There's a salt-lick close-in on the property, so there are always animals nearby. And, the camp pooch! Oh, and do schedule a private splash in their Victorian clawfoot tub - very romantic (alone or sharing)!
Gotta get back to writing more "in-between..........."
Thanks guys for the encouragement.
I hope I get to Richard's Camp (which was next to last) before you depart on your trip. But, in brief, Richard's is lovely, with great hosts, guides, delicious food; fantastic gift shop with quite a few unusual items (reasonable prices). There's a salt-lick close-in on the property, so there are always animals nearby. And, the camp pooch! Oh, and do schedule a private splash in their Victorian clawfoot tub - very romantic (alone or sharing)!
Gotta get back to writing more "in-between..........."
Thanks guys for the encouragement.
Aug 2nd, 2006, 02:10 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Day 4 – Saturday, May 26, 2006
We’re scheduled for a 9:30am flight from JRO to NBO, so it’s another early morning. I don’t even recall having breakfast… just too much food these past few days.
At 8am we’re heading to JRO and on arrival find our flight is the only one scheduled… the airport is empty. Our wait is brief, we board and are airborne.
Less than an hour and we’re landing in Nairobi, deplane and walk to the terminal. With application and $50 in hand, I head to the Visa window; Susan has to first complete her application. No matter, there were no queues.
This done, we pick up our bags and once outside Baggage Claim meet our driver.
Interesting note – effective the next day, May 27, a No Smoking law for public buildings was to go into effect in Kenya. At the beginning this holds for airports, hospitals and government buildings. Hotels and restaurants will have to decide on their own until further notice.
Being Saturday morning, there was little traffic from the airport and we’re into downtown Nairobi in about 20-minutes, heading to Westlands out near Karen. Once downtown though, traffic is horrible which was expected, so it takes another 20-minutes before we reach our friend’s new offices.
After a walk-thru of their new space, and some jibber-jabber, they learn that Susan is departing Kenya a few days ahead of me; that she planned to spend the time till my afternoon flight to the Mara, then being transferred to JKIA for her homebound flight. No no no, this is unacceptable – a miracle, Susan has a dayroom at the Intercontinental for the following Sunday till her departure. That done, we walk next door to the Pavement restaurant for lunch. Lots of laughs, a few beers, great food and then we say our good-byes. Too many short visits with friends, too many good-byes; at least we'll have a few days when we get up north.
We’re on our way to the House of Waine to meet up with some of the gals for afternoon tea. More food… I can’t eat any more. On the drive, Susan comments about all the construction going on in Lavington and Karen. It’s quite amazing… you’d think you were back in the States... with both private free-standing very large homes and gated communities with town-houses. And prices aren’t the least bit shabby, starting at USD$250,000, being purchased by African’s, whites and Indians. Many who live outside of Kenya, purchasing retirement properties. It’s apparent there is lots of money here.
Twenty-minutes later we pass through two security gates and find ourselves at the front door of the House of Waine. After my recommendation, Susan had stayed here a few times... it’s a first for me, and well worth the wait. We’re warmly welcomed like old friends and shown to our rooms. I’m given the Manyatta, the largest, except for the honeymoon suite... great décor, high ceilings and a balcony overlooking the pool. In the room next door Susan was checking her email on the requested laptop that was waiting for her. I wouldn’t even consider that and just enjoyed my surroundings.
No computerized door here, rather the old fashioned skeleton keys, which we never even bothered to use, because we never bothered to lock our doors! With clothes for tomorrow unpacked, we head to the pool where we find tea has been set out for us and our guests. We were in heaven, if only we had days to stay.
It wasn’t until about an hour later, that the light bulb went off. We’d be enjoying tea alone. The girls probably wouldn’t be meeting us... it was Saturday. And though we’re great company and lots of fun, why spend the time with us when they could have the day to themselves and families. I then realized why they originally said they'd meet us at about 10:30am, which would be the end of their half-day at work. I had advised them we wouldn’t be arriving until 10:30am, that we already had lunch plans and wouldn’t be to HOW till about 2:00pm... it now made sense.
Oh well, they’d be missing out on tea and the wonderful spread House of Waine had prepared for us at the pool cabana. We had the pool, cabana, in fact, the entire place to ourselves, as the only guests. So, we made ourselves comfortable, ordering an iced tea... the goodies not too far away on the other table. I avoided even looking over that way, but I couldn’t resists the scones screaming “eat me, eat me.” And we did.
At about 4:30pm, Eric, the “E” in Waine, joined us at the pool. Though he had greeted us on arrival, he wanted to change into something more appropriate for his guests. And he did, to a different pair of khakis and t-shirt. Tres tres informal. Eric was a hoot and the three of us laughed and told stories for about an hour till it was time for “my” tour.
Needless to say, the hotel is a beauty. The original house built in the 70s though with features of years past; parquet floors, shallow low rise stairs; the 11-rooms spaced well on two floors. Eric's family purchased the property a few years back and with his sister manage the hotel. After renovations, mainly adding bathrooms and refurnishing you find this wonderful hidden retreat in quiet Karen.
While upstairs, the butler arrives to announce that we have a visitor. I thanked him and ask that he escort our guest upstairs. A few minutes later, Helen arrives. Helen had made most of the arrangements for our visit in Kenya and up till now, it’s been months of emails only.
It’s a pleasure making acquaintances as we continue viewing all the rooms. When finished we adjourn to the lounge where drinks are ordered all around. The next 1-1/2 hrs is fun with lots of catch-up and we’re given our air flight vouchers and whatever we need to present wherever we’re scheduled over the next 12-days. We asked Helen to join us for dinner, but, she had a 9pm appointment with other clients, so we walk her to her car and say our goodbyes. As she drives off and we walk back into the hotel, we look at one another and comment “it would be very easy getting used to this!”
We head into the dining room which has been set for two... a bit overkill and very romantic, with a lovely table set in front of the fireplace, candles all around. It’s somewhat lost on us, but they sure know how to provide the right atmosphere. Dinner is outstanding; dessert even better.
It’s getting on 11pm and (as usual) we have an early departure, so off to our rooms and well-deserved sleep.
Day 5 – Sunday, May 27, 2006
We have breakfast with Eric and at 8:15am our driver is waiting for the short drive to Wilson Airport. Twenty minutes later we’re having our bags weighed; combined we’re a bit overweight, but my smile works again and they just wave us through.
At 9:05, we’re asked to board the flight to Nanyuki; on board are only six passengers. Forty-minutes later we land at Nanyuki. We deplane, as the others continue on to Samburu.
Here we meet our pilot, Hamish, for the flight to the Desert Rose. But before leaving I inquire about Eston, our pilot from last year – “is he around?” “No, he’s flying”, when Hamish notices that Eston is having a bite at the coffee shop. As I head off to meet him, waving, he gets up and walking towards me (I can’t imagine he’d know who was signaling to him), he waves back and says “Is that you Sandi?” I’m surprised that he recognized me. We catch up for a few minutes, when he asks whether it would be okay if two young women from NYU in NYC, working up north, could hitch a ride with us when we return three days later? Sure, why not. That taken care of, we walk back to our Cessna 182 and are on our way north.
The flight is smooth, the air clear, the scenery amazing. One-hour, ten-minutes later, we’re landing at the Kowop airstrip. Waiting here is Emma Hedges-Chen and some of her staff. Introductions are made all around. Before the pilot departs, Emma asks that on his (or another pilot’s return) they bring some produce she needed. What a great way to do your shopping!
Susan and I get into the front with Emma, her staff in the rear and off we go. The landscape up this way is quite interesting. Though relatively dry... the Chalbi desert is due east, there is still plenty of green to be seen. Emma plays tour guide pointing out things of interest, i.e., “that’s the acacia tree seen in “Tomb Raider, Part II” – how interesting. I must have missed that film! But, the part of the film that took place in Africa, was actually shot up here at Desert Rose.
There are small Samburu villages in the area, basically untouched by tourists. The children are smiling and waving, but not a one of them looking for "something, anything" from the visitors. A bit further down the road we come upon camels and we’re introduced to the youngest of the herd. He’s absolutely adorable – for a camel. These are lighter in color than others we’ve seen in the Samburu and Laikipia area. They blend perfectly with their environment. We spend a few minutes taking photos and then continue our drive.
Around the next turn we come upon a sign indicating “4WD is a must” and so true as the road is almost at a 90-degree angle. No way, without 4WD could you make it. And one had better know what they were doing behind the wheel.
Arriving at the Desert Rose parking area, we walk down a few steps into the main lounge and know we’ve arrived at a very special place. It’s all so welcoming, comfortable and beautiful... too much to take in at once. We’re welcomed with the traditional cold drink and then shown to our individual cottages. As we’re the only guests, we each have our own little piece of heaven - me the Wood Cottage, Susan the Stone Cottage.
Both are reached from a path behind the pool, mine to the right, Susan’s straight ahead. The Wood Cottage is entered through a lovely wooden gate, down steps hewn out of the rock onto a deck platform offering the most amazing view. On the platform is a wooden tub with hand-held shower, nearby sink with both hot and cold running water. The cottage is large with a king bed, a few chairs, luggage rack, closets against the back wall and plenty of shelves for clothing; a large window opposite the bed which is opened and never closed during my stay. There is no door to close... open, open, open. The Stone Cottage is likewise, large with a king bed reached from a stone step-up. With stone walls, a tub/hand-held shower, closets, chairs – a duplicate of mine, with its’ own theme. Emma leaves us to freshen up and at our leisure, when ready, to join her for lunch.
During the next three days we have too many wonderful meals to detail, but the bread and pastries are always freshly baked. The meats are tender, the vegetables from their own organic garden; water from the mountain and rainwater which have been boiled and bottled in unique vessels (bottled water also available), and tea twice daily. For sure, the Brits sure left their mark on East Africa. And, desserts, desserts and more outstanding sweets of one kind or another.
After lunch, we spend the afternoon simply enjoying the views from every which way one looks. Ever present, when looking north is Oldonyo Nyiru, the Samburu’s holy mountain. Desert Rose sits at 5,000-ft, the mountain at 11,000-ft. Looking south, are mountain peaks of all heights and on closer observation you can make out road, heading south and east.
At about 5pm we return to our cottages for a bath in the wonderful tubs. This is the best time, late afternoon just before the sun dips below the mountains. With the sun, especially on my deck still strong, it’s a lovely experience to be sitting in bubbles and more bubbles and just marveling at the experience.
The weather was so comfy during the afternoon… warm, in fact, but for the evening it’s jeans, a sweater and an extra sweater, in case it gets cold at this altitude. As we learned, the wind can pick-up, even if briefly, so it’s best to be prepared.
Up at the lounge for sundowners, the three of us adjourn to under the protection of the awning. Sundowners would be “dry” for the next few days, as Helen emailed us in Arusha, that since Emma has just opened for the season, she hadn’t yet stocked alcoholic beverages; did we mind bringing our own. Well, considering weight restrictions and the fact that Susan and I have our own preferences – me Absolute, she white wine – we laughed and decided we could do without for a few days.
But, surprise of surprises, just as we get comfortable, and accepting it’ll be cola or ginger ale or water, Emma appears with a bottle of wine that happened to be in the fridge. A treat, and a fine one at that. Having only met a few hours earlier, the three of us found we had lots in common and really liked and enjoyed the new found company – fast friends were in the offing.
Dinner was announced at about 8pm, when we moved to the dining table, beautifully set with a fire in the nearby pit. The one bottle of wine lasted thru dinner, and then another surprise – Tusker beer appeared. Now, I was a happy camper as we retire into the lounge around the fireplace. As women are apt to do, we spent a few hours jibber-jabbering about everything with great music coming from somewhere. Especially appropriate was Sting’s Desert Rose, which we played over and over.
It was a hoot listening to some of Emma’s stories. As a borne and bred Kenyan, she had quite a number of interesting experiences in-country, elsewhere in Africa and many world travels – one of the funniest about when they were shooting Tomb Raider II… cooking for everyone, personalities, quirks of some of the cast. I just knew our howls of laughter could have been heard miles away at the local village... we were having such fun.
Also interesting was a look through the photo album about the building of Desert Rose. There was nothing in/near the area… they just came across this spot and decided “here we’ll build.” There was no road to speak of, everything would have to be brought in – wood, stones, furniture, commodes, sinks, bathtubs, kitchen equipment, etc. etc. It took eight years until we have what one sees today, this amazing and beautiful retreat. When I asked whether they used dynamite to blast through the boulders to build the road, Emma replied “no, just pick-axes and Samburu.” And believe me, they could use more work on that last section of the access road.
At about 11pm, we each retired to our own cottages, with lanterns to find our way. The cottages do have light powered by 12V batteries in the loo and at the bed. Arriving at the cottage, the mossie nets have been pulled around the bed, but in all honesty, at this altitude, one doesn’t worry about mossies. Besides, with the wind, no worry about mossies. And, it’s rather chilly at this hour - no worry about mossies. But the look is lovely, so you creep inside and welcome the sandman.
... to be continued
We’re scheduled for a 9:30am flight from JRO to NBO, so it’s another early morning. I don’t even recall having breakfast… just too much food these past few days.
At 8am we’re heading to JRO and on arrival find our flight is the only one scheduled… the airport is empty. Our wait is brief, we board and are airborne.
Less than an hour and we’re landing in Nairobi, deplane and walk to the terminal. With application and $50 in hand, I head to the Visa window; Susan has to first complete her application. No matter, there were no queues.
This done, we pick up our bags and once outside Baggage Claim meet our driver.
Interesting note – effective the next day, May 27, a No Smoking law for public buildings was to go into effect in Kenya. At the beginning this holds for airports, hospitals and government buildings. Hotels and restaurants will have to decide on their own until further notice.
Being Saturday morning, there was little traffic from the airport and we’re into downtown Nairobi in about 20-minutes, heading to Westlands out near Karen. Once downtown though, traffic is horrible which was expected, so it takes another 20-minutes before we reach our friend’s new offices.
After a walk-thru of their new space, and some jibber-jabber, they learn that Susan is departing Kenya a few days ahead of me; that she planned to spend the time till my afternoon flight to the Mara, then being transferred to JKIA for her homebound flight. No no no, this is unacceptable – a miracle, Susan has a dayroom at the Intercontinental for the following Sunday till her departure. That done, we walk next door to the Pavement restaurant for lunch. Lots of laughs, a few beers, great food and then we say our good-byes. Too many short visits with friends, too many good-byes; at least we'll have a few days when we get up north.
We’re on our way to the House of Waine to meet up with some of the gals for afternoon tea. More food… I can’t eat any more. On the drive, Susan comments about all the construction going on in Lavington and Karen. It’s quite amazing… you’d think you were back in the States... with both private free-standing very large homes and gated communities with town-houses. And prices aren’t the least bit shabby, starting at USD$250,000, being purchased by African’s, whites and Indians. Many who live outside of Kenya, purchasing retirement properties. It’s apparent there is lots of money here.
Twenty-minutes later we pass through two security gates and find ourselves at the front door of the House of Waine. After my recommendation, Susan had stayed here a few times... it’s a first for me, and well worth the wait. We’re warmly welcomed like old friends and shown to our rooms. I’m given the Manyatta, the largest, except for the honeymoon suite... great décor, high ceilings and a balcony overlooking the pool. In the room next door Susan was checking her email on the requested laptop that was waiting for her. I wouldn’t even consider that and just enjoyed my surroundings.
No computerized door here, rather the old fashioned skeleton keys, which we never even bothered to use, because we never bothered to lock our doors! With clothes for tomorrow unpacked, we head to the pool where we find tea has been set out for us and our guests. We were in heaven, if only we had days to stay.
It wasn’t until about an hour later, that the light bulb went off. We’d be enjoying tea alone. The girls probably wouldn’t be meeting us... it was Saturday. And though we’re great company and lots of fun, why spend the time with us when they could have the day to themselves and families. I then realized why they originally said they'd meet us at about 10:30am, which would be the end of their half-day at work. I had advised them we wouldn’t be arriving until 10:30am, that we already had lunch plans and wouldn’t be to HOW till about 2:00pm... it now made sense.
Oh well, they’d be missing out on tea and the wonderful spread House of Waine had prepared for us at the pool cabana. We had the pool, cabana, in fact, the entire place to ourselves, as the only guests. So, we made ourselves comfortable, ordering an iced tea... the goodies not too far away on the other table. I avoided even looking over that way, but I couldn’t resists the scones screaming “eat me, eat me.” And we did.
At about 4:30pm, Eric, the “E” in Waine, joined us at the pool. Though he had greeted us on arrival, he wanted to change into something more appropriate for his guests. And he did, to a different pair of khakis and t-shirt. Tres tres informal. Eric was a hoot and the three of us laughed and told stories for about an hour till it was time for “my” tour.
Needless to say, the hotel is a beauty. The original house built in the 70s though with features of years past; parquet floors, shallow low rise stairs; the 11-rooms spaced well on two floors. Eric's family purchased the property a few years back and with his sister manage the hotel. After renovations, mainly adding bathrooms and refurnishing you find this wonderful hidden retreat in quiet Karen.
While upstairs, the butler arrives to announce that we have a visitor. I thanked him and ask that he escort our guest upstairs. A few minutes later, Helen arrives. Helen had made most of the arrangements for our visit in Kenya and up till now, it’s been months of emails only.
It’s a pleasure making acquaintances as we continue viewing all the rooms. When finished we adjourn to the lounge where drinks are ordered all around. The next 1-1/2 hrs is fun with lots of catch-up and we’re given our air flight vouchers and whatever we need to present wherever we’re scheduled over the next 12-days. We asked Helen to join us for dinner, but, she had a 9pm appointment with other clients, so we walk her to her car and say our goodbyes. As she drives off and we walk back into the hotel, we look at one another and comment “it would be very easy getting used to this!”
We head into the dining room which has been set for two... a bit overkill and very romantic, with a lovely table set in front of the fireplace, candles all around. It’s somewhat lost on us, but they sure know how to provide the right atmosphere. Dinner is outstanding; dessert even better.
It’s getting on 11pm and (as usual) we have an early departure, so off to our rooms and well-deserved sleep.
Day 5 – Sunday, May 27, 2006
We have breakfast with Eric and at 8:15am our driver is waiting for the short drive to Wilson Airport. Twenty minutes later we’re having our bags weighed; combined we’re a bit overweight, but my smile works again and they just wave us through.
At 9:05, we’re asked to board the flight to Nanyuki; on board are only six passengers. Forty-minutes later we land at Nanyuki. We deplane, as the others continue on to Samburu.
Here we meet our pilot, Hamish, for the flight to the Desert Rose. But before leaving I inquire about Eston, our pilot from last year – “is he around?” “No, he’s flying”, when Hamish notices that Eston is having a bite at the coffee shop. As I head off to meet him, waving, he gets up and walking towards me (I can’t imagine he’d know who was signaling to him), he waves back and says “Is that you Sandi?” I’m surprised that he recognized me. We catch up for a few minutes, when he asks whether it would be okay if two young women from NYU in NYC, working up north, could hitch a ride with us when we return three days later? Sure, why not. That taken care of, we walk back to our Cessna 182 and are on our way north.
The flight is smooth, the air clear, the scenery amazing. One-hour, ten-minutes later, we’re landing at the Kowop airstrip. Waiting here is Emma Hedges-Chen and some of her staff. Introductions are made all around. Before the pilot departs, Emma asks that on his (or another pilot’s return) they bring some produce she needed. What a great way to do your shopping!
Susan and I get into the front with Emma, her staff in the rear and off we go. The landscape up this way is quite interesting. Though relatively dry... the Chalbi desert is due east, there is still plenty of green to be seen. Emma plays tour guide pointing out things of interest, i.e., “that’s the acacia tree seen in “Tomb Raider, Part II” – how interesting. I must have missed that film! But, the part of the film that took place in Africa, was actually shot up here at Desert Rose.
There are small Samburu villages in the area, basically untouched by tourists. The children are smiling and waving, but not a one of them looking for "something, anything" from the visitors. A bit further down the road we come upon camels and we’re introduced to the youngest of the herd. He’s absolutely adorable – for a camel. These are lighter in color than others we’ve seen in the Samburu and Laikipia area. They blend perfectly with their environment. We spend a few minutes taking photos and then continue our drive.
Around the next turn we come upon a sign indicating “4WD is a must” and so true as the road is almost at a 90-degree angle. No way, without 4WD could you make it. And one had better know what they were doing behind the wheel.
Arriving at the Desert Rose parking area, we walk down a few steps into the main lounge and know we’ve arrived at a very special place. It’s all so welcoming, comfortable and beautiful... too much to take in at once. We’re welcomed with the traditional cold drink and then shown to our individual cottages. As we’re the only guests, we each have our own little piece of heaven - me the Wood Cottage, Susan the Stone Cottage.
Both are reached from a path behind the pool, mine to the right, Susan’s straight ahead. The Wood Cottage is entered through a lovely wooden gate, down steps hewn out of the rock onto a deck platform offering the most amazing view. On the platform is a wooden tub with hand-held shower, nearby sink with both hot and cold running water. The cottage is large with a king bed, a few chairs, luggage rack, closets against the back wall and plenty of shelves for clothing; a large window opposite the bed which is opened and never closed during my stay. There is no door to close... open, open, open. The Stone Cottage is likewise, large with a king bed reached from a stone step-up. With stone walls, a tub/hand-held shower, closets, chairs – a duplicate of mine, with its’ own theme. Emma leaves us to freshen up and at our leisure, when ready, to join her for lunch.
During the next three days we have too many wonderful meals to detail, but the bread and pastries are always freshly baked. The meats are tender, the vegetables from their own organic garden; water from the mountain and rainwater which have been boiled and bottled in unique vessels (bottled water also available), and tea twice daily. For sure, the Brits sure left their mark on East Africa. And, desserts, desserts and more outstanding sweets of one kind or another.
After lunch, we spend the afternoon simply enjoying the views from every which way one looks. Ever present, when looking north is Oldonyo Nyiru, the Samburu’s holy mountain. Desert Rose sits at 5,000-ft, the mountain at 11,000-ft. Looking south, are mountain peaks of all heights and on closer observation you can make out road, heading south and east.
At about 5pm we return to our cottages for a bath in the wonderful tubs. This is the best time, late afternoon just before the sun dips below the mountains. With the sun, especially on my deck still strong, it’s a lovely experience to be sitting in bubbles and more bubbles and just marveling at the experience.
The weather was so comfy during the afternoon… warm, in fact, but for the evening it’s jeans, a sweater and an extra sweater, in case it gets cold at this altitude. As we learned, the wind can pick-up, even if briefly, so it’s best to be prepared.
Up at the lounge for sundowners, the three of us adjourn to under the protection of the awning. Sundowners would be “dry” for the next few days, as Helen emailed us in Arusha, that since Emma has just opened for the season, she hadn’t yet stocked alcoholic beverages; did we mind bringing our own. Well, considering weight restrictions and the fact that Susan and I have our own preferences – me Absolute, she white wine – we laughed and decided we could do without for a few days.
But, surprise of surprises, just as we get comfortable, and accepting it’ll be cola or ginger ale or water, Emma appears with a bottle of wine that happened to be in the fridge. A treat, and a fine one at that. Having only met a few hours earlier, the three of us found we had lots in common and really liked and enjoyed the new found company – fast friends were in the offing.
Dinner was announced at about 8pm, when we moved to the dining table, beautifully set with a fire in the nearby pit. The one bottle of wine lasted thru dinner, and then another surprise – Tusker beer appeared. Now, I was a happy camper as we retire into the lounge around the fireplace. As women are apt to do, we spent a few hours jibber-jabbering about everything with great music coming from somewhere. Especially appropriate was Sting’s Desert Rose, which we played over and over.
It was a hoot listening to some of Emma’s stories. As a borne and bred Kenyan, she had quite a number of interesting experiences in-country, elsewhere in Africa and many world travels – one of the funniest about when they were shooting Tomb Raider II… cooking for everyone, personalities, quirks of some of the cast. I just knew our howls of laughter could have been heard miles away at the local village... we were having such fun.
Also interesting was a look through the photo album about the building of Desert Rose. There was nothing in/near the area… they just came across this spot and decided “here we’ll build.” There was no road to speak of, everything would have to be brought in – wood, stones, furniture, commodes, sinks, bathtubs, kitchen equipment, etc. etc. It took eight years until we have what one sees today, this amazing and beautiful retreat. When I asked whether they used dynamite to blast through the boulders to build the road, Emma replied “no, just pick-axes and Samburu.” And believe me, they could use more work on that last section of the access road.
At about 11pm, we each retired to our own cottages, with lanterns to find our way. The cottages do have light powered by 12V batteries in the loo and at the bed. Arriving at the cottage, the mossie nets have been pulled around the bed, but in all honesty, at this altitude, one doesn’t worry about mossies. Besides, with the wind, no worry about mossies. And, it’s rather chilly at this hour - no worry about mossies. But the look is lovely, so you creep inside and welcome the sandman.
... to be continued
Aug 2nd, 2006, 03:05 PM
#15
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Yes, Foxy is adorable, isn't she? And we could tell that a number of animals had wandered through Richard's camp as evidenced by the amount of poo around on our visit 
But I'm getting ahead of your report...
But I'm getting ahead of your report...
Aug 2nd, 2006, 04:30 PM
#16
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Oh, good to know, Sandi. Actually, I think I already may have asked you a question about Richard's...and I KNOW I've asked Patty. What can I say? I'm an overly excited first timer to Africa, I guess, and I want to hear every detail!
Waiting eagerly for your next installment...great so far!
Cindy from California
Waiting eagerly for your next installment...great so far!
Cindy from California
