Tunisia -- Trip Report

Old Jan 24th, 2006, 05:41 PM
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Tunisia -- Trip Report

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...Uy=mqla3y&Ux=0

Based on my research prior to my trip, I had very high expectations about Tunisia, all of which were exceeded during my December 2005 trip. Some of you may recall the terrorist bombing in Jerba several years ago, but I felt very safe during my trip, and all the other tourists I met during my trip expressed the same view. In addition, the Tunisians with whom I interacted were among the friendliest, most helpful people I have encountered -- I never felt inhibited or restricted by my inability to read Arabic or fluently speak French.

Friday, December 23 -- I flew from JFK via Milan to Tunis, arriving in Tunis around noon. The line to clear customs was short (no visa required for Americans or Western Europeans) and quick, and after retrieving my bag, I walked into the departure area where I located my airport transfer (I arranged it through the hotel / about $8.00 for the transfer, which was a sign of very low prices to come). I spent a lot of time researching Tunis hotels. Most of the top tier hotels are anonymous, 1960s structures, and I generally prefer a hotel with a bit of local character. I booked the Hotel Carlton, a restored structure from 1926, with a great central location and nice room (satellite TV, nice bathroom, helpful staff) for $42 per night. After checking in, I wandered to the Tunis medina (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 1 on my trip). I popped into a local barber, where I got a nice, close shave for $3.00. I wandered aimlessly throughout the medina and its many souks, stopping for mint tea from time to time, and visiting a few mosques along the way. Jet lag caught up with me around 6:00, and after a quick meal, made my way back to the hotel.

Sunday, December 25 (Christmas) -- I awoke early and walked to the nearest Tram stop, where I caught Tram 4 (less than $1.00), for the 20 minute ride to the Bardo Museum (listed as one of the 1,000 sights to see before you die in the recent book of the same name). Bardo holds a lot of mosaics from the sights I'd visit over the next several days, and it houses one of the world's best collections of Roman mosaics. I spent around two hours in the museum, and then made my way back to the tram. I jumped back on Tram 4 and took it to its final station (Tunis Marine), where I switched to the suburban TGM line (also less than $1.00) for the 30 minute ride to Carthage (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 2). I visited Byrsa hill (the sight of ancient Carthage, with wide open views of the Bay of Tunis), the Carthage Museum, Roman Villas and the ancient baths. Not much remains of ancient Carthage, but with a bit of imagination, you can envision what the sights much have looked like before they were vandalized. I spent several hours wandering the sights of Carthage (all of which can be visited on one ticket, around $5.00). From Carthage, I caught a taxi to Sidi Bou Said (5 minutes from Carthage and another of the 1,000 sights to see before you die). Sidi Bou Said is a whitewashed city, with beautiful blue window frames and doors, but it was inundated with several large groups from two cruise ships, so after a mint tea, I caught the TGM back to Tunis. Upon arrival in Tunis, I stopped by the train station to purchase a ticket for my trip the next day.

Monday, December 26 -- I caught the 6:00 am train from Tunis to El Djem (around $8.00 in first class for the three-hour trip). El Djem is home to the world's third largest Roman colloseum (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 3), and its in better shape than its more well-known counterpart in Rome. December is the tourist low season, and there were only a handful of visitors. After visiting the colloseum, I walked to the louage (shared, private taxi) stand, and asked for the louage to Sousse (from where I'd catch a louage to Monastir, before returning to Sousse). The louage (around $2.00) filled after 20 minutes or so, and an hour later I was at the Sousse louage station, where I caught another louage to Monastir. Monastir is home to Tunisia's best preserved ribat (Islamic fort), which may be familiar since its a popular film location (some of Monty Python's Life of Brian was filmed in the Monastir ribat). After an hour or so wandering the ribat, I caught a louage to Sousse and headed for its medina (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 4), and I spent a few hours wandering the medina, and visiting its mosques, markets and ribat. From the medina, I walked to the station and caught a late train for the two-hour return to Tunis.

Tuesday, December 27 -- In the morning, I headed to the Tunis louage station, and I asked and was directed to the louage to Tebersouk (around two hours from Tunis and only $4.00). Tebersouk is the nearest city to Dougga, a well preserved Roman city and UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 5. From the Tebersouk louage station, a taxi drove me to Dougga and the driver agreed to return for me at a set time. I spent a few hours wandering Dougga (again, very few visitors), including its theater and ancient capitol. At the set time, the taxi returned and drove me to the louage station, where I caught the next louage back to Tunis. I arrived in Tunis around 6:00, and headed again to Carthage by TGM, this time for dinner at Spoon, the Alain Ducasse restaurant in Villa Didon, perhaps the best hotel in the Tunis area, but very new and not in any of my guidebooks. I'm not sure if I would have stayed there since its 30 minutes outside Tunis, but its a very nice hotel.

Wednesday, December 28 -- I intended to spend the day re-exploring the Tunis medina, but first visited the central market (very similar to wet markets in China, with lots of fish, live poultry and, if you like horsemeat, a very large horse section, including some meaty horseheads). I took a roll of photos at the market, and then walked to the Tunis medina for lunch at Dar El Jeld, which has the reputation as the best restaurant in Tunis (its a restored building, and its beautiful, and while I'm not a couscous expert, the meal was tasty). I spent the entire day in the medina, including a lot of time in its ancient cafes drinking mint tea.

Thursday, December 29 -- I awoke early for my 6:00 am flight to Milan, from where I caught a flight to Naples. I was out of my Naples hotel before noon and wandered the city center (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 6). I headed to Brandi for lunch (the last time I was in Naples it was closed), one of Naples' famous pizzerias, and the pizza was excellent, but its very busy and service is slow. After lunch, I walked around central Naples to the Archeological Museum, primarily to see what was in the Gabinetto Segreto, the collection of ancient erotic sculpture and mosaic, which had been off limits to the general public for decades until 2000. The museum also holds a lot of mosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum, both of which I intended to visit the next day.

Friday, December 30 -- I took the train from Naples to Pompeii (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 7), which I had visited in December 1999, but that visit was brief and there were some sights I missed since some of the villas were then closed. I spent several hours wandering around Pompeii, and finally was able to see the erotic frescos at the Casa dei Vettii, and the sculpture and mosaics at the House of the Faun (both places were closed on my prior visit). On the return to Naples, I stopped off at Herculaneum (included with Pompeii in the same UNESCO designation) and spent an hour wandering around the excavated town. After arrival in the Naples train station, I went to Da Michele, the most famous pizzeria in Naples, but I thought their pizza was like eating a wet rag with flavorless sauce. After that, I caught the train to Rome (I had stored my bag in the Naples station so I didn't need to bring luggage to Pompeii nor return to my hotel).

Saturday, December 31 -- I hadn't been to Florence since November 1993 and wanted to revisit, and with the high speed train from Rome, it would take a bit more than one hour to get to Florence. I spent the day in Florence, first visiting the Museo Zoologica "La Specola" (closed on my first visit), which holds an excellent natural history collection, but most interestingly, a historic collection of 18th-century anatomical wax models once used for medical training. Following my visit to the museum, I wandered around Florence (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 8). After dinner, I caught a late train back to Rome (which I last visited in December 1999).

Sunday, January 1 -- In the morning, I visited the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, which some count as a separate "country" due to its claim of sovereignty. I then walked to Vatican City (UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 9), arriving in St. Peter's Square at 11:45 am, 15 minutes before the Pope's weekly Sunday greeting. I stayed to listen, and then walked to the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain and on to the Colosseum (Rome's city center is UNESCO World Heritage Site No. 10).

Monday, January 2 -- I had a 1:50 pm flight back to New York, so I started early, and I was at St. Peter's Basilica as it opened at 7:00 am. I wanted to see John Paul II's tomb and at that time there was no line, unlike the mile long lines just after his death. I made a very quick visit to the Vatican Museums, primarily to see the cleaned ceiling in the Sistine Chapel. After this visit, I headed to the airport and was back in New York around 7:00.
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 06:49 PM
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Michael,

I would have NEVER imagined that Tunisia would appear so fascinating. This is the type of place that Alexsandra and I would be equally enthusiastic about visiting.

Your photos and trip report are great. This seems so much more interesting than going to Dubai. Apples and oranges, I know, but a great option.

How many hours between Milan to Tunis?

Thanks.
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Old Jan 25th, 2006, 06:59 AM
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Rocco, its less than two hours from Milan to Tunis, and there are also connections to Tunis via Paris and Rome, and likely elsewhere (but I'm only familiar with the SkyTeam routes).

Unlike Dubai, however, I don't believe there are onward flights from Tunis to southern Africa, so you'd need to backtrack to Europe if you intended to get to Zambia after a visit to Tunis, or travel via Europe for a Tunis stopover on the way home from Zambia.

In another post, you indicated that there are less than 50 new countries to which you'd like to travel. I'm glad to add a new one to your list. I have been to more than 100 countries, and I can still think of 50 that I'd like to visit.
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Old Jan 25th, 2006, 10:08 AM
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Thanks for the post Michael. It's inspiring to realise that I won't be running out of places to visit anytime soon!

Your pictures of Tunisia remind me of Morocco, does it feel similar?

Loved the picture of the Ponte Vecchio, unusual to see pictures of it in the winter.

And slightly off topic; I'm considering going to Sri Lanka next year. Ever been? Comments?
Femi
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Old Jan 25th, 2006, 11:12 AM
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I haven't made it to Sri Lanka, yet. I had planned a trip several years ago to take me to Sri Lanka, Calcutta and Bangladesh, but a business commitment forced me to cancel. I did some research (mostly reading the Lonely Planet) and there is a lot to see in Sri Lanka (lots of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, great beaches and some interesting wildlife destinations). Its near the top of my list, but my upcoming trips are scheduled for 2006 and I have a short list for 2007, so not sure I'll make it to Sri Lanka for at least a couple of years.
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Old Jan 25th, 2006, 05:53 PM
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Thanks so much for the report.

We've been thinking about Libya and Tunisia as there are such wonderful Greco-Roman sites. Great to hear you had such a nice time.

Roccco - I'm sure the more places you learn about the more places you'll want to go!
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Old Jan 25th, 2006, 06:10 PM
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Nice head shot!

Great report. It gives me more bad ideas. Tunisia...hmmm.

Thank you for taking the time to post this.
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Old Jan 25th, 2006, 06:11 PM
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welltraveledbrit,

Perhaps I should change my screen name to lesstraveledyank.

Not that it rates up there with a few people on this board, but I think I am currently at 5 continents and about 25 countries. Despite my frequent visits to Africa I still try to get around. Since I have started visiting Africa in 2002 I have managed to also visit the following countries:

Chile
Costa Rica
Italy
Canada (It was Quebec, and from Los Angeles, this is not quite the same as crossing from a bordering state into Canada)
Mexico (Guadalajara)

Quite honestly, I was expecting to be able to list more countries! Seems that I have just so insular and it is all Africa's fault!
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 05:00 AM
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welltraveledbrit, Libya, I think, has even more interesting ruins than Tunisia, but as of now, at least, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to travel independently in Libya since you must travel with a guide. The visa is also difficult to secure since you need an official Arabic translation, which, I understand, can be difficult to obtain.

Rocco, sounds like your next itinerary will take you to several new countries -- Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Holland and France.
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 12:59 PM
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Lets not get into the counting thing we all know Micheal wins!

Rocco -My husband think my screen name is so obnoxious he suggested well traveled git ! My brother suggested not as well traveled as my brother !

I've been emailing some travel agents in Libya and you require a letter of invitation which goes in with your visa application. You're right you have to be on a tour but they can arrange something private.

Apparently there are some delays for US applicants currently because they're getting caught in a transition-Libya will soon have a diplomatic presence in the US and you will no longer have to apply via Ottowa. However, one of the larger agencies suggested we could apply in advance and pick up the visa (with their representative) at the airport.

Despite having found out all this information I don't think Libya will work for our next trip which will be in March.
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 01:15 PM
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For those Fodorites who prefer their Africa experiences to be a bit more lux, Orient Express just opened a tented camp in Tunisia
www.pansea.com/eng/ksar_infor.html
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 02:42 PM
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For luxury, I would prefer Villa Didon, since its in Carthage, close to Tunis and within daytripping distance of so many amazing sites. The Pansea hotel looks nice, but its in the middle of nowhere. Tunisia is not a lux destination, and it seems to attract the well traveled instead of those interested in bedsheet thread count and similar amenities. That's one of the things I really liked about my visit.
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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Hi Michael,

Thanks for the trip report -- I'll be heading to Florence in March, and hopefully I'll be able to visit the museum you mentioned, as I'm very interested in the history of medicine.

I'm curious about the smoking situation in Tunisia -- I'd love to visit Morocco, but I'm hesitating because of the tales of being unable to escape from the constant cigarette smoke (which would be a real problem for me as I have asthma). Was it like that in Tunisia?

Cheers,
Julian
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 03:55 PM
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Julian, the Museo Zoologica is a two-minute walk from the Pitti Palace, and its listed in the Lonely Planet; notwithstanding the stated closing time of 2:00 pm in Lonely Planet, the museum is open until 4:00 pm. The anatomical models are fascinating, and fill at least a dozen rooms.

I spent most of my sightseeing time outside and cigarettes were not bothersome -- but, they do smoke water pipes in the cafes, but the cafes can be easily avoided. Since NY banned restaurant smoking several years ago, I tend to notice smoking more often, and there is much more smoking in France and other European countries than in Tunisia. I wouldn't let the prospect of sightseeing in a cloud of smoke prevent you from visiting Tunisia. Its an amazing destination.
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 04:41 PM
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Thanks for sharing Michael - interesting report from a place not often mentioned and unique local. Your photos are very well - love that there aren't any people (except one, I think) in your pics.
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Old Jan 27th, 2006, 05:14 AM
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I make a concerted effort not to get random people in my photos, and it takes a lot of effort, especially for places like St. Peter's Square and the Vatican Museums. I don't mind having friends and family in photos, but I really don't like to capture strangers. Personal preference, I guess.
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Old Jan 27th, 2006, 08:32 AM
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Thanks for the info-any suggestions for four 21 year old girls going for a long weekend? Your trip report was wonderful.
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Old Jan 27th, 2006, 09:19 AM
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dutyfree, I responded to your other post. But, if interests are sightseeing, I would stay in Tunis and explore the area (Tunis medina, Carthage, Sidi Bou Said) and trip to Dougga, which is incredible.
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Old Jan 28th, 2006, 07:32 AM
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thit cho-thanks for the tips. I cut and pasted your report to email it to her as I think that she will appreciate someone recently going to Tunisia. Stay tune for some questions from us. Thanks!
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Old Jan 11th, 2008, 12:58 PM
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topping
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