Please advise on Kenya itinerary

Old Jan 19th, 2006, 07:06 AM
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Please advise on Kenya itinerary

Well, I could wait a little longer but I am sitting here with this itinerary spinning around in my head and it has stopped changing every six hours now...so let's post it and see what happens. Digressions are welcome and only Meru "must" be done this time.

Here is the background (but we're fairly flexible people)
1. We just got back from Kenya 4 weeks ago did Mara-Nakuru-Baringo-Mountain Lodge and do not want to return to any of these places...yet
3. We drive only - with driver/guide and 4WD van
4. We want a mix of peace and beauty and great game viewing
(who doesn't? ... but we are willing to have them at different times if necessary)
5. Our budget depends on how many unnecessary luxuries we do without this year but in any case we will have to mix "perfect" places with some cheaper or tourist lodge options - no credit card debt allowed as trip no.3 will follow ASAP! Therefore, no limit on the cost of some nights but would have to compensate elsewhere, so self control required.
6. Trip No. 3 is likely to be Tsavo (West?), Amboseli and Northern Tanzania but I will resist posting that itinerary just yet ; )

We will probably be travelling in early to mid December (maybe 3-18 and maybe 9-24) so this could be a very long thread by then. I hope so!

Our current tentative itinerary is
1 Roadside inn - any ideas?
(we arrive midday & go straight from airport - it's 3 hours out of Nairobi I guess)
2-5 Tsavo East NP
6. Thika or Nairobi outskirts (roadside inn)
7 -9 Meru NP
10 -13 Samburu NR
14-15 Laikipia
16 Nairobi
17 Home

Days 14-15 (but not necessarily Laikipia) may have to be dropped; it depends on flights, success of vacation requests and self-control over budget elsewhere

CURRENT camps/lodges are
Tsavo East - Satao
(for tented isolation,no fences & waterhole)
Meru - Elsa's (it's my dream park so it has to be my wife's dream accommodation)
Samburu - Serena?
Laikipia - Impossible to choose (thanks for suggestions of previous thread)

It is Nyamera's fault** that we are not decided about Samburu ...the best places seem to discourage animal encounters and we really want to (safely and sensibly)be on the ground close to the animals as much as possible this time - if we can (there is a realist in me somewhere). Serena is the early favourite because it seems to have a very good location and the best policy on "mothering" - but it might be a bit wierd to come from quiet Meru to a big lodge (it's nothing against Serenas, which we have had good experiences with - it is just the contrast and these could be our last days).

Any ideas to redistribute costs (actually I haven't had it priced yet but we can guess) wisely, move the itinerary around, try somewhere different ... all welcome!

I have posted before to get specific information about some of these places but please feel free to restate views. Remember it's December because I am a little concerned about the effect of that on wildlife viewing (especially in Tsavo East)-I do not want to hope for two "dry" short rains in a row.

**That is a "good fault" Nyamera : )



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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 10:15 AM
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Welcome to the safariholics club!

I'm not sure what you mean by roadside inn (there was that Mary's Butchery and Hotel that we came across which looked interesting ) but this place might make a suitable stop enroute to Tsavo East - http://www.umanispringscamp.com/index.htm

I haven't stayed there or heard much about it. I basically looked on a map to see what might be partway between Nairobi and Voi.

Tsavo East to Thika is going to be quite a long drive. In Thika, there's a place called the Blue Post Hotel that's supposed to overlook some waterfalls. I've seen it used as a lunch stop on itineraries but believe they have rooms as well. Again I don't know too much about it.

Personally I'd skip Tsavo East this time (it's taking you way out of the way as you know). It seems more logical to do Tsavo East/West and Amboseli together next time and redistribute your days in the central highlands/northern areas this trip. I don't know how interested you are in Shaba or the Aberdares, but those could be more easily built into an itinerary that includes Samburu/Meru/Laikipia.

Maybe others will have some more creative suggestions.

BTW Kenya Airways is partnered with KLM and part of the Flying Blue program. They're also supposed to be joining Skyteam as an associate member any day now, but these things are announced and then it seems to take years for it to actually happen.

I'm a total wimp when it comes to flying economy too. Right now I'm contemplating upgrading my flight to Hawaii in April and it's only 5 hours from LAX

I envy you for being so close to East Africa. It takes us anywhere from 24 to 30 hours each direction and business class fares run $5000 or higher.

Enjoy your trip planning!
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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 10:22 AM
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Oh and how about switching the order of Meru and Samburu? Then there won't be the shock of going from a relatively isolated park/small camp to a busier park/large lodge.
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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 12:09 PM
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Kimburu, if you do without some necessary luxuries as well you could stay at Elephant Watch in Samburu. I wasn’t happy with the lack of big animals in camp at Intrepids, but they serve delicious food, now they are sending me updates from the Mara – though they never answered the emails I was sending while planning my trip - and they found a camel handler who had switched to Samburu Lodge and gave him the photos I’d sent him – I know because I got some kind of love letter from him.

Is Roadside Inn a place in Thika or are you looking for a roadside inn? Anyway, Thika isn’t 3 hours from Nairobi – more like 1 hour I’d say – but it’s to the north and in the morning you’re going south to Tsavo. The place in Kibwesi that Patty found looks very interesting, but not as budget friendly as a roadside inn. Maybe you could try Hunter’s Lodge or the Sikh temple in Makindu. Or, you could go all the way to Voi and stay at the Distarr Hotel – and save money for Elephant Watch.

Tsavo East is better combined with Tsavo West and Amboseli, or the coast, but it’s worth the detour.


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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 12:39 PM
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If you focused on the north it would be interesting to read a trip report about Maralal and Lake Turkana – the real north.
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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 03:12 PM
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Opening in June (or before) is Joy's Camp at the northern tip of Shaba. Shaba and Samburu are one eco system. The property is where Joy Adamson "Born Free" had her camp. Be forewarned, it's expensive. There is no website yet available.
 
Old Jan 19th, 2006, 05:31 PM
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and Samburu. The Abederes is also interesting, but so is everywhere in Kenya !!!
We don't feel we are really that close to Kenya - but I understand what you mean. It's people from India that I'm jealous of! You ARE a wimp about economy class... 5 hours is a piece of cake. Spend the money on the ground and keep at least some semblence of "economy fitness". We have a German friend who spends about 3 months a year here in Thailand just "hanging" and he atarted flying first class around 3 years ago. Now he is a total cripple and has actually put trip offs (which much "woe is me&quot because first class was full. What a brat! Funny thing is when he is here he stays in places costing around $US20 a night!! Don't get like him!
Finally, I will certainly look into switching the order of Meru and Samburu - it makes sense doesn't it?
Nyamera
Thank you for the Elephant Camp idea. That place looks just perfect, but it doesn't come cheap. That would be the "Steps of Jan Goss" safari then, instead of the "Steps of Joy Adamson", wouldn't it? I don't think I would make it alive as far as Elephant Camp if I saved money by staying at the Sikh Temple instead of Satao Camp(maybe not even as far as Tsavo, unless she planned to use me as bait for maneless lions). I personally think it is a great idea. I was not familiar with the Distarr Hotel but I looked it up - again I think it is good idea, but I would be lion food for sure if this was the stop after the Sikh temple. What I REALLY like is the idea about the "real" north, but my impression is that driving there could be very much of an "adventure" in itself. My current understanding (and please correct me) is that the infamous stretch of raod from Isiolo to Samburu NR just carries on lkike that for a great many more hours before we would hit Lake Turkana. I also beleive that it is "bandit country" and am concerned that if the trip turned our badly my wife might trade me for a night at Desert Rose.

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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 06:21 PM
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Ignore that previous post - I deleted half of it by mistake!!

Patty
By roadside inn I mean something like what you suggest - Blue Post Hotel - just somewhere comfortable to sleep with hot water a decent bed and good food. Mary's Butchery and Hotel sounds interesting, though - is it THE Mary? Have to be careful we slept in the right section; and waking up to the sound of gaots being slaughtered would be an experience!
Great minds.... I saw Umani Springs, but was worried if we weer late leaving the airport we might not make it by dark and it is 15 km off the main road.
You are of course right that it is logical skip Tsavo East, but I am sure you are well awware how difficult it would be to do that, especially since we started with trips to both Tsavos and now only have one left ... none?

I honestly have no real concept of Shaba - it is even less discussed than Meru and everywhere seemns to have the same blurb about it. have never found a trip report anywhere on the Web and would not believe it existed if it wasn't for the Africanmeccasafaris Web site. Apart from convenience would it go well as an experience with Meru and Samburu. The Abederes is also interesting, but so is everywhere in Kenya !!!
We don't feel we are really that close to Kenya - but I understand what you mean. It's people from India that I'm jealous of! You ARE a wimp about economy class... 5 hours is a piece of cake. Spend the money on the ground and keep at least some semblence of "economy fitness". We have a German friend who spends about 3 months a year here in Thailand just "hanging" and he atarted flying first class around 3 years ago. Now he is a total cripple and has actually put trip offs (which much "woe is me&quot because first class was full. What a brat! Funny thing is when he is here he stays in places costing around $US20 a night!! Don't get like him!
Finally, I will certainly look into switching the order of Meru and Samburu - it makes sense doesn't it?
Nyamera
Thank you for the Elephant Camp idea. That place looks just perfect, but it doesn't come cheap. That would be the "Steps of Jan Goss" safari then, instead of the "Steps of Joy Adamson", wouldn't it? I don't think I would make it alive as far as Elephant Camp if I saved money by staying at the Sikh Temple instead of Satao Camp(maybe not even as far as Tsavo, unless she planned to use me as bait for maneless lions). I personally think it is a great idea. I was not familiar with the Distarr Hotel but I looked it up - again I think it is good idea, but I would be lion food for sure if this was the stop after the Sikh temple. What I REALLY like is the idea about the "real" north, but my impression is that driving there could be very much of an "adventure" in itself. My current understanding (and please correct me) is that the infamous stretch of raod from Isiolo to Samburu NR just carries on lkike that for a great many more hours before we would hit Lake Turkana. I also beleive that it is "bandit country" and am concerned that if the trip turned our badly my wife might trade me for a night at Desert Rose.
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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 06:34 PM
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Oh, my typing is getting worse... Too many errors to correct.

Sandi
I saw a posting about Joy's Camp on the Cheli & Peacock site, but it was old. Hard to get enthusiastic about it yet, but just wait until the Web site comes online. Don't suppose they'll have special opening offers?! If the owners of Cheli & Peacock read this board, wouldn't it be good to publicise a new camp like that through a trip report on this board in December? Hint, hint..
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Old Jan 19th, 2006, 06:38 PM
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Nyamera
The damage is done. Now I am researching the far north and wondering how it feels to be a white slave of the Turkana people.
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Old Jan 20th, 2006, 04:19 PM
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Kimburu
L. Turkana in December is hotter than the usual (HOT)
It is an adventure ! ethnic experience, views ... North of Samburu not significant wildlife viewing.
Research Lake Paradise Marsabit, Chalbi Desert, Kalacha, South Horr.
Ethnic groups like Borana, Rendille, Turkana ...
@ Samburu/Buffalo springs have better game than Shaba on an average day (Is there an everage day in Africa ??) though it is less crowded with tourist cars,
@@ Blue Posta Hotel: "good food"? - simple standard african food (not tourist oriented like Sopa etc) 2 waterfalls, Chania & Thika, a short walk away is rare anywhere
aby
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Old Jan 20th, 2006, 04:31 PM
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I haven't seen any reports of Shaba either. The fact that nobody seems to go there makes me want to go even more. I know the scenery is supposed to be dramatic and it's often used as a filming location (I should've paid attention to Survivor Africa), but as far as game density goes, I suspect it's less than Samburu.

My impression of the far north is also that it's AK-47 territory I believe you need to travel in convoys on the roads going up to both Lake Turkana and Marsabit. We traveled in a convoy between Tsavo West and Amboseli, but there you have tourists going back and forth every day so there are always vehicles to drive with. I don't imagine there are too many tourists heading up north, but I suppose there would be lorries traveling on this route. I'd be interested in what you find out as to security and logistics.

You're absolutely right about the need to maintain some semblance of 'economy fitness' - I like that term - so I think I'll follow your advice and save my miles (no money involved) for a future trip. I need to condition my body to sleep in a fully upright position once in a while

I managed to make it through all of 2005 without a single segment in economy. A couple of weeks ago we flew economy to Hawaii and I suddenly recalled how miserable it was. It didn't help that we forgot to bring our own food (what no foie gras on this flight?). AA was selling ham and cream cheese on raisin bread sandwiches on board, I kid you not. I had to decline.

I can totally see myself turning into your friend. I've never flown first class internationally. I'd love to try it and at the same time, I don't think I should ever try it. I'd hate to find myself thinking that business class is inadequate!
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Old Jan 20th, 2006, 04:39 PM
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sandi,
Aren't you heading back to Kenya in Sep? Why don't you swing by Joy's Camp and check it out for us?
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Old Jan 21st, 2006, 06:25 AM
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Patty -

Can't sneak anything by you!

Working on something, sometime. Joy's is on the list, but may have to pass as time is limited and those private charter flights are a killer, eating up most, if not all of the budget. When I know............
 
Old Jan 21st, 2006, 07:46 AM
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Kimburu, if you go to Tsavo you’ll have to stay inside the NP. The Distarr is not an alternative to Satao. Tarhi Camp is, and it’s smaller and probably a little bit less expensive. I was thinking about your first night, but if you go all the way to Voi after a delay at the airport you’ll risk being on the Nairobi– Mombasa highway after dark. You’ll need a “roadside inn” closer to Nairobi. Maybe you could stay at the Small World Country Club in Athi River.

Tourists go to Lake Turkana all the time, but I’ve never seen any trip reports about it here on Fodor’s. I want you to live – dead Fodorites don’t write trip reports.


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Old Jan 21st, 2006, 07:48 AM
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I must remember to use smileys
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Old Jan 21st, 2006, 06:57 PM
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Well, the stable itinerary phase did not last for long. We are now leaning strongly towards a purely northern trip - so we can have a southern trip next time. Thanks to all (I think). We ar enow looking at Shaba, Laikipia, the Matthews Range, and even further north.

aby
Thanks for the useful info. I get "HOT" and "adventure" - that says it all. Have you been to Shaba? Will follow up on research tips. Simple African food is what I want!

Patty
I am glad you are going to work on your "economy fitness"! However, I forgot you have to bring your own food on US flights! Lovely menu choice.

If this ends up as a northern trip will I be researching for you or will you be researching for me? Who's first?

Convoys sound exciting and from my reading so far the condition of the roads north is even more exciting. "Crippling", "back-breaking", "corrugated", "bone-jarring", "terrifying" are some of the adjectives I've seen used so far. I also notice the regular use of the expression "SERIOUS 4-wheel drive" in the Lonely Planet guide.

Nyamera
I am being too melodramatic. Please do not fear for my safety or my trip report. Small World Country Club is a fantastic name. I will have to look for information. I also need to use smileys more.

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Old Jan 21st, 2006, 07:09 PM
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I am going to research short camel safaris (two days is probably enough first time, in case camels are even less comfortable than they look). Anyone have any experience with these? I have ridden elephants, but never camels!
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Old Jan 21st, 2006, 11:11 PM
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Camel safaris do not appear to involve much camel riding. Mostly walking it seems.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2006, 06:20 PM
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Hi Kimburu
@ i've been to Shaba a number of times.
@@ mind u - a trip up north is a TOTALLY different trip !!
if u need more specific impression of Shaba - will follow
aby
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