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Very Detailed New Zealand Trip Report 1/20/06 - 2/11/06

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Very Detailed New Zealand Trip Report 1/20/06 - 2/11/06

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Old Mar 7th, 2006, 11:42 AM
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Very Detailed New Zealand Trip Report 1/20/06 - 2/11/06

NZ Trip Report 01/20/06 – 02/11/06

Scale of 1 -10
1= Awful
5 = Average
10 = Excellent

Auckland – 2 nts

We arrived in Auckland Intl Airport at 1pm via Air Tahiti Nui (8) from LA. Picked up our car rental from Avis (not our preferred your to due cost but service was great and they had a drop off location in Rotorua) and then picked up our cellular phone rental from Apex. Stayed 2 nights at the Sebel Suites (10) located at the Viaduct Harbor. We loved our accommodation and would highly recommend it. (Side note: reviews for each individual accommodation have been posted on tripadvisor.com). Grabbed dinner at an Irish pub at the Viaduct called Danny Doolins (6) and then went to sleep around 6pm.

Next day we were picked up at the hotel by AWOL Adventures (9) for our 7.5 hour canyoning trip in Piha Canyon. Trip to Piha took about 45 min. Suited up in the wetsuits and headed into the canyon. The day was gorgeous, sunny, and about 72F. It took about 40 mins to hike into the canyon. We had to do several jumps into the waters below, abseil down a 90 meter cliff, abseil down a waterfall, and tramp through some pools & caves. Had a fantastic time and would definitely recommend to those interested. We were exhausted after the trip so we grabbed a quick sandwich from Subway at hit the sack.

Waitomo – 1 nt

We had to get up early to be on the road by 6am so that we could make our 9 am reservation for the Black Abyss tour (7) with the Blackwater Rafting Co. We arrived early and left our bags at the Waitomo Caves B&B Guest Lodge (8) which was our accommodation for that evening. After suiting up and receiving abseiling training, we abseiled down a limestone hole (~160ft) into the cave. From there we took a zip line further into the cave and then jumped about 15 ft into the river below with an inner tube secured to our bums. From there we paddled ourselves along the river and admired the numerous glowworms. Next we traveled down a small waterslide on the river bed and climbed up 3 waterfalls to get out. Although there was some times where we got extremely cold, we had a blast. We went back to the accommodation to freshen up. We were given the self contained unit on the 2nd story which provided great views of the Waitomo valley. The hosts Colin & Janet were very pleasant and made some great recommendations on restaurants and side trips. Later that night we had dinner and beers at the Waitomo Tavern (5) with Peter, whom we met on the excursion.

Rotorua – 2 nt

Headed out to Rotorua and made a side trip to Tirau to see the I-site visitor center. It was shaped like a dog and made out of corrugated iron. Very interesting. Had lunch at the Ye Olde Ship Inn (6). They had a nice balcony for dining. Once we checked in to the Novotel in Rotorua (5) we headed off to the Skyline Gondola & Luge (7). The views were nice but not dramatic like the south island. We had a blast on the luge. Next we stopped at Te Puia (2) to see the geysers. We were extremely disappointed with this stop and felt it was a waste of money. Most of the landscape is bubbling mud pits and the geyser was tiny. It severely paled in comparison to Yellowstone. We had dinner at the Pig & Whistle (5) before retiring for the night. The burger was good but the nachos were horrible.

After a restless night’s sleep (the hotel smelled awful of sulfur), we headed out in the pouring rain to Taupo. Along the way we stopped at the Waimangu Volcanic Valley (7) which was a lot better than what we had observed in Rotorua. Even in the downpour the landscape was lush and beautiful. The rain created lots of steam off of the thermal pools. Several of the pools were a brilliant blue green. We opted not to take the boat ride due to the high winds and rain. We stopped at Huka Falls (5) before continuing to Taupo. The weather had still not cleared so we were unable to go out onto the lake and see the Maori carvings. We had lunch & terrific garlic bread at JJ’s Bar & Brasserie (6) before walking around to the shops. We found that Taupo was quainter and had a better selection of restaurants than Rotorua.

Abel Tasman / Marahau – 2 nt

Due to high winds our flight from Rotorua to Nelson was delayed about 45 min. Arrived in Nelson, picked up our car from Apex (9), stopped at the I-site and booked our ½ day Astrolabe & Beyond kayak trip with Abel Tasman Kayaks (9), then had lunch at the Boat Shed (8). Great lake views and seafood. Recommend the crab or flounder. Drove ~1 hr to Marahau and checked in to the Ocean View Chalets (9). Extremely pleased with the chalet and the views of the Tasman Sea. Ate dinner in Moteuka at the Bakehouse Café (10). Pizza and garlic bread were fabulous.

Next day we headed 2 minutes down the road to the kayak meeting place. Met up with our guide Nate and the 3 others who joined us. The weather was warm, sunny, and the skies a brilliant clear blue. We did not see any wildlife but the kayaking along the Abel Tasman coast was magnificent and a must do.

Hokitika – 1 nt

We started the day by driving up to Takata Hill to get some more pictures of the Abel Tasman Coast and the surrounding valleys. Headed back through Moteuka on to Punakeiki. Stopped along the way at the Buller Gorge Swingbridge (7) which is the longest in New Zealand. Cost $5 NZD to cross the bridge. Took a 40 minute nature walk on the other side of the bridge and then set off again. It was a nice break. We continued on to Punakeiki via Greymouth and quickly realized that we were happy with our decision not to stay in Greymouth. The city was dark, dreary, and very industrial. We arrived at the Pancake Rocks (8) in Punakeiki during low tide but it was still an amazing site to see. The drive along the west coast is spectacular. Continued on to Hokitika were we stayed the night at the Best Western Shining Star Chalets (7). The chalets are well appointed and situated right on the ocean providing terrific views. We had dinner at Stumpers Bar & Grill (5). The restaurant décor was lovely but the steak & chicken were nothing to write home about.

Fox Glacier – 1 nt

Today was another early start in very heavy dense fog. Almost hit a cattle crossing with our car. We stopped at the Franz Josef glacier and took some pictures. Did not linger because we had 12pm heli-hike scheduled for Fox Glacier. Arrived in Fox and had a quick lunch at the Hobnail Cafe (5). The heli-hike and helicopter ride were amazing. The helicopter pilot was a bit of a dare devil but it was entertaining. There was absolutely no fog in Fox Glacier and it was clear blue skies and sun. A perfect day to be on the glacier. We were fortunate that there were several ice cave formations that we got to explore. We met two couples on the heli-hike, Keith & Catherine and Ben & Lee whom we had dinner with at later that night at The Plateau (7). Walked through the glowworm dell at about 10pm and although it only took about 10 mins we enjoyed it

Wanaka – 2 nt

Before heading out to Wanaka we stopped and walked around Lake Matheson for about an hour. Unfortunately there was just enough wind to cause ripples in the lake and we were unable to see the reflection of the mountains. Next we stopped at the I-site in Haast and picked up a couple coffee table picture books. Continued on to Wanaka and stopped at the Gates of Haast, Tower falls, Fantail falls, and the blue pools. Took a lot of pictures at Lake Hawea. Checked into The Moorings Motel (9). Great room on the upper level with a balcony over looking the lake and another window with a city view. Lovely room but it did not have A/C and the weather was horridly hot (90F). Ate dinner at Amigos (7) which also did not have A/C but the margaritas were refreshing.

The next morning we arrived at Puzzling World (8) early (10 am) since we knew that it was going to be another hot day. Had fun going through the outdoor maze and really enjoyed the inside tour. Next we decided to catch the 12 noon movie at Cinema Paradiso (6). The movie theatre had A/C which was a huge plus but it was different in that instead of seats it had old couches or a VW bug you could sit in. We opted for the couch. Afterwards we grabbed lunch and ice cream at Café Gusto (6). The rest of the day consisted of lounging by the lake and getting pints at Scruffy Murphy’s, Slainte Irish Pubs & Red Rock. Red Rock had a great atmosphere & pool tables.

Queenstown – 2nt

The drive to Queenstown was quite pleasant. We stopped in Cromwell & Arrowtown along the way. We also made a quick trip to the AJ Hackett Kawarau Bungy Bridge and saw someone jump. From there we headed to Deer Park Heights (10). We loved the magnificent views of the mountains and all the animals we saw. At one point my husband left the car door open to get some feed for the goats and one of the goats practically jumped into the driver’s seat. It was also interesting to see where some of the LOTR film scenes were shot. We then checked into The Outrigger at the Beacon (9). The room was very nice but small. They had fresh bread baking in our room for us which was a real treat. After a 5 minute walk into town we booked our Frogz excursion at The Station for the next day. Sat outside at Red Rock and had a couple beers. Had dinner at the Lonestar (9) which was real good and then met up with Keith & Catherine from the Helihike that night for drinks at the Rattlesnake.

The next day we had breakfast at Joe’s Garage (5). My breakfast sandwich consisted of eggs, ham & sausage on a fresh baked submarine roll. I thought it was terrific but my husband was not too thrilled with it. From the outside the restaurant looks like an auto repair shop and the entrance is hard to find but it is a really neat place to eat. After heading back to the hotel, we were picked up for our white water sledging excursion on the Kawarau River with Frogz (5). I was not impressed with the overall operation of the business. Although they provided decent out of the water instruction about the river operates, the instruction once in the water was a mess. They piled 9 people with two instructors for each run. The river was a bit much and people were all over the place if not constantly running into and on top of each other. The guides were never able to keep the group together and my overall experience was disappointing. Maybe in smaller groups with better instruction and assistance would it have been more fulfilling. My advice to anyone looking into this excursion would be that it is not for the weak of heart or those who do not have good physical strength. It took a toll on both of our bodies and we are in good physical shape and in our late 20’s. Later that night we had dinner at The Cow (7). The pizza was good but the garlic bread had about 5 cloves of garlic too many on it. We visited the Minus 5 Bar (9) before heading back to the hotel. Although you could only stay in the bar for ~30 min it was definitely neat to see everything made out of ice including your glass.

Te Anau – 3 nts

Today we arrived in Glenorchy around 9am for our 2 hr horseback trek with High Country Horses (7). My horse Will was a stubborn one whose main focus was eating but my husband’s horse Ernie was well behaved. We got to forge the river a couple times which was fun. Most of the horses had a social hierarchy so some couldn’t walk by others because of attitude problems so that caused some interesting situations throughout the ride. Nothing dangerous though.
We checked into the Campbell’s Autolodge (7) in Te Anau around 3pm after picking up some groceries and grabbing lunch at the Ranch Café Bar & Grill (5). First off let me start by saying that all the apartments face the lake and they are HUGE. It had a big bedroom, living area, kitchen, and bathroom. The negative is that each apartment looks like it was last remodeled in the 1970’s. We enjoyed the space and the hosts were great. Also it was very clean but definitely not modern in decoration. We spent most of the day relaxing and reading books to give ourselves a break from all the constant activities.

The next morning we drove out to Milford Sound. There are several places to stop along this journey so allow yourself time to explore. We stopped at the Mirror Lakes, the Divide, Hollyford River, and The Chasm. We booked the 2:30pm boat ride with Mitre Peaks. The boat was smaller than the other operators but that just meant we had less people to deal with. We really enjoyed the cruise and seeing the fiord and seals. Later that evening we met up with Catherine & Keith again for dinner and a movie at our apartment. We ordered pizza & pasta from La Toscana (8).

After a chilling 45-min boat ride across Lake Manapouri and a 40 min bus ride we were finally in Deep Cove and headed into Doubtful Sound for a day of kayaking with Adventure Kayak & Cruise (9). The sound was so peaceful and we only saw 3 other kayaks and 1 boat. The only negative was the swarm of sand flies and the numerous bites on our feet.

Dunedin – 2 nt

We set out for the Catlins first thing in the morning. It took us about 4 hours to get to Jack’s Blowhole via Gore. The Blowhole was not that impressive but the 30 minute uphill walk along the coastline was nice. Next we stopped at the Purakaunui Falls (6) and then headed on to the Cathedral Caves (10). It would have made sense to go to the caves first along the southern scenic route but we had to wait for low tide. It is about a 30 minute downhill walk to the beach & caves but well worth it. There were about 7 different caves and in the far back of one we came across three baby penguins. After that we headed to Nugget point and then to Cardno’s in Kaka Point for the night. There was some miscommunication on our part with the host so the room was rebooked. They were extremely friendly though and the place looked wonderful. They kindly let us use their computer to book an additional night at the Scenic Circle in Dunedin (using wotif.com) (7). Continued an hour on to Dunedin and checked-in. We had dinner at Ra Café & Bar (5).

The next day we drove out to the Otago Peninsula to see Larnach Castle (6). The castle was nice but small and paled in comparison to those found in the UK. The drive along the peninsula was spectacular though. We drove up to the Albatross Center but opted not to take a cruise. We saw several seals lounging on the rocks below and we even saw a baby penguin in its nest. After that we headed to The Terrace (8) in the Octagon to watch the Superbowl Football Championship and eat lunch. Had a home cooked meal with friends that night.

Lake Tekapo – 1 nt

Before heading out we stopped by Cadbury (6) for a tour of the chocolate factory. It was neat to watch them drop 1 ton of melted chocolate in front of you. They did not have many lines running that day which may have been due to the fact that the day prior was a public holiday. Next we drove up Baldwin Street which is the steepest street in the world. Our little Toyota Corolla started out at 60 km/hr and about ¾ of the way up it was at 5 km/hr. We did make it to the top though. Stayed the night at the Lake Tekapo Scenic Resort (6). The room was nothing special but the views were amazing.

Christchurch – 2 nts

Checked in to the Copthorne Central (5). Walked over to the Art Gallery to see the Ansel Adams exhibit but it was no longer showing. Checked out the interesting art gallery shops across the street. Bought a ticket for the trolley tours and rode around. Grabbed dinner and drinks at the Vic & Whale (8). The wait staff was great as were the steaks.

Had breakfast at Drexels (9). HUGE portions for reasonable prices. After breakfast, we drove just north of Christchurch to Waipara. We spent the day visiting Waipara Springs Winery & Cafe (4), Canterbury House Restaurant & Winery (10), and Pegasus Bay Winery (10). The atmospheres and wines offered at Canterbury and Pegasus Bay were delightful. No reservations were needed at any of the locations. That evening we ventured out to several of the bars/pubs along Manchester Street and Oxford Terrace.

Auckland – 1nt

Flew from Christchurch to Auckland via Quantas. Took a shuttle from airport to CityLife (6) and it only took 30 minutes. Had lunch at the Playhouse (4). Went out to Degree (3) at the Viaduct for dinner. Took in some of the local bars along the viaduct and then went to the Skytower (8) at night. The next morning we headed home.
CDJD is offline  
Old Mar 7th, 2006, 09:03 PM
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Thanks for the great report!

Lee Ann
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Old Mar 8th, 2006, 07:59 AM
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I really like your rating system! So sledging wasn't great huh? I saw it on the Amazing race and thought that would be cool to do. Hmmm.
How was driving in NZ? I hear that the roads are much narrow than in the States.Thanks for your trip report!
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Old Mar 8th, 2006, 10:56 AM
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I can't take credit for the rating system. I saw that Jed used it in his trip report and thought it was a wonderful idea.

Sledging just takes a toll on your body. Unlike anything I have ever experienced. It also would have been a lot better with a smaller group or more guides.

As for the roads, they are fine. Yeah they are narrower but there is no traffic at all. The only time that it may become an issue is with a larger RV/Campervan. We had a compact and intermediate size car and had no problems. The traffic is ridiculously light compared to USA traffic.
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Old Jan 9th, 2007, 05:13 AM
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Thanks for sharing!
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Old Jan 9th, 2007, 09:09 AM
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Thanks to whoever topped this - we're in NZ in February and this is really helpful.
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Old Jan 9th, 2007, 05:39 PM
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My thanks also to whoever topped this...we are in NZ in April and this gives me lots of ideas on where to eat and drink! Thanks again....wonderful trip report.
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Old Jan 18th, 2007, 07:59 PM
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Great article. Want to know more about New Zealand accommodation and info?

Check out this site:
www.takeabreak.co.nz

They also have great New Zealand web cam!
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Old Jan 19th, 2007, 06:46 AM
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This forum has all you ever wanted to know about NZ and more. Just put 'trip report' in the search box.
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Old Jan 19th, 2007, 11:32 AM
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It is so sad to read this report because exactly one year ago today I was boarding the plane to leave for this magnificent adeventure and wish I were doing the same today. It is astonishing though how you misplace some of the smaller details and going back to the report brings it all rushing back. I hope that all of you that are setting out on your journeys soon have a terrific holiday.
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