TRIP REPORT: Rome, Florence, and Venice in a Week!
Sep 10th, 2004, 03:56 PM
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TRIP REPORT: Rome, Florence, and Venice in a Week!
Yes, it can be done -- Rome, Florence, and Venice in one whirlwind, memorable week -- it just takes planning and a go-with-the-flow attitude. In reference to the SLOWTRAV website, I call this FASTTRAV.
In late August 2004, my 3 sons in their 20's, 2 of their companions, and I flew from California to Rome where we spent 3 days, then took the train to Florence for 2 more days, and on to Venice for another 2. We flew home from Venice. With conflicting work and school schedules, a week was all the six of us could manage. So, I decided it was better than not going at all.
Regarding the weather and crowds, I expected worse, but was pleasantly surprised. (I'd been to Italy before, in the winter of 1968 some 36 years ago. My late husband and I explored Rome together when we were both US college students studying abroad. My youngest son is now the same age as we were then.)
I dislike hour to hour vacation scheduling. But some planning and organization is necessary to make the most of the limited time we had. But inspite of all this planning, we managed to miss our Air France flights out of NYC due to tremendous thunderstorms over JFK making it impossible for our JetBlue (from Oakland, CA) and United (from Los Angeles) flights to land on time. 40-50 other flights circled the NY skies with us. By the time we got to the Air France counter, we have 15 minutes to spare -- but our flight was closed for boarding. DRAT! AF said they would give me credit for our missed flight, but that I would have to purchase new tickets at the day-of-departure price (!) -- an extra $1084 per person for a total of over $6500 -- Geez! They say had I not separately booked connecting flights, they could've given me a simple change of reservation... say what? So... I swallowed this bitter pill and whipped out my credit card... I didn't even want to argue with them at this time... it was like being between a rock and a hard place... no way I can cancel our trip now -- but how would I absorb such a steep penalty?
Fortunately AF gets us on a flight just 1 1/2 hours later, so we didn't lose one of our precious days to this mess. I groused that at this price we'd better have terrific seats - and in agreement, Air France put us in business class (!) - but only on the first of the four European flights of our trip. Anyway, I was determined not to let this incident ruin my vacation -- yet guess what I thought about when I woke up at weird hours while on vacation? (when I returned home, I wrote a letter to AF pleading my case and am awaiting their reply... wish me luck...)
Day 1, Sunday - Rome
So, we arrived on a warm, blindingly sunny Sunday around 1 PM at the Rome Airport and took the Express train (9.50 EU) into the
city.
I like the area close to the Termini station because 1) we can easily walk to our hotel from the airport Express, 2) we can board any city bus after a day of sight-seeing to get back to our hotel as long as the bus stop roster listed "Termini" as a destination for that bus, 3) we can easily catch our early morning train departing for Florence, and 4) we can board near-empty buses at the beginning of their routes. (By the way, there's a terrific double-deck, open-top city tour bus, the # 110, that runs all day making its rounds in a 2-hour tour for 13 Euros if you want to stop-and-go at any of the 10 stops, or 8 Euros if you don't get on and off.)
Our next 3 nights are spent at the (Morgana) Royal Court Hotel - 3 blocks NE of the Termini station. As we walked to our hotel, my guys are impressed with the massive sea of scooters parked at a nearby curb. We learned to be "certain and quick" crossing the busy streets. After reading about the questionable safety around the train station, I was a bit nervous, but was relieved to find the area safe even at night. Our 3 comfortable air-conditioned rooms were very quiet and clean with spacious bathrooms of marble-tiled floors, tub/shower, and a bidet - which I used for soaking my weary feet. My tub even had whirlpool jets, but not so in the other bathrooms.We got settled in and showered. My son wondered why there was no shower curtain as there was now water all over the bathroom. We learn the fine art of lathering first and then rinsing off.
Understandably, everyone was excited and no one wanted to rest -- so at 4 we walked the 1.5 miles to the Colosseum passing St. Peter in Chains (San Pietro in Vincoli) on the way. The Colosseum was incredible as it suddenly loomed at the end of the street. The Forum became the casualty of our 2-hour delay. We choose to walk up the Via del Fori Imperiali - the street next to the Forum - because we are too tired to take in the ancient ruins - next time. We dine at a corner restaurant Angelino ai Fori, not on any particular list, but where we tired souls have an inexpensive, wonderful meal al fresco (80 Euro for 6, no wine). We raise glasses of water to toast my son who is 27 today, but we opt to celebrate another day. By the end of the meal at 8:30, I could see eyelids closing and people slowly fading. I, on the other hand, had tried Argonne Lab's jetlag diet (http://www.nmt.edu/~armiller/jetlag.htm) and was amazed I felt so "normal," -- I was skeptical about the diet, but it worked for me... [It's a diet started 3 days before departure and geared to resetting the body clock by alternately fasting and feasting to fool the body into believing day is night and night is day.]
Day 2, Monday - Rome
The troops got up early and after the more than ample hotel breakfast, we bought our "good for 75-min" bus ticket (1 Euro) at the Termini and caught the #40 express bus to the Vatican. The only problem with an express bus is that it makes fewer stops, so if you don't get off at the right place, the next stop may be quite a distance and you'll have to back track... oh, and by the way, they don't announce the stops... So when one of my sons asked where do we get off?... I suddenly realized I didn't know - but had better find out quickly. Luckily, I made the right guess.
In the summer, the crowds can be large, but if you get to St. Peter's Basilica by 9 AM or earlier, you have it made. The line to get in was almost non-existent (as opposed to the 11 AM line, but I'll tell you about that later...) And yes, they were strict about dress codes - one older woman with lots of jewelry and impeccably dressed in designer shorts and sleeveless top was separated from her appropriately attired family -- "Sorry, Signora..." the gatekeeper tells her. Later I heard from a Brit about a nearby store that sold baggy long pants and a T-shirt for 10 Euros. I'm amused picturing the older women in ill-fitting pants and a T-shirt.
As we wonder around the enormous Basilica taking pictures with the small morning crowd, it suddenly occured to me that I left the confirmation number of our 2:45 "(Scavi) Excavations Tour of the Necropolis" back at the hotel! I wondered if the Scavi Office would have the reservation under my name besides the number?... or would I have to go back to the hotel to retrieve the number? So while the gang took the elevator to the first level of the dome and later climb the stairs to the Cupola, I decided to inquire about my reservation. (I'd scaled the Dome 36 years ago, no need to do it again in the summer and I'm in no better shape now... ) I was surprised the Basilica ushers didn't speak much English, considering they deal primarily with tourists. Looking for the Scavi Office, I was directed to opposite corners of the Basilica (long, long walks) before being told I needed to exit the building and go between the gates guarded by the colorful Swiss guards to get to the office. These guards were very serious, impressive and imposing... (Read Dan Brown's "Angels and Demons" to gain some insight into these well-trained sentries.) but the one guard listened to my problem and
directed me to the Scavi Office on the Vatican grounds. Lucky for me, the office had my name AND number listed and I needn't return to my hotel!
Remember my mentioning the 11 AM line into St. Peter's? Well, it turned out, I made a one-way exit from the Basilica - well, once you leave you must get in line to re-enter... Dios mio... By 11, the line stretched clear across the front of the Square - a good 20-25 minute wait. That's OK, at least I didn't have to taxi it back to my hotel.
I met up with the gang at 11:30 and we headed towards the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel -- stopping for a lite lunch at one of the little sandwich/calzone bars along the way whose flyer we answer -- (grilled ham and cheese) sandwich and drink for 5 Euros! We had been drinking water all morning, but still VERY thirsty. It's really too warm to eat much and we're still full from breakfast, but the museum visit will be long and the 1.5 hour scavi tour followed at 2:45, so we grabbed a bite. We found the Vatican Museum overwhelming - too crowded, too long, and too much. Some of the open windows offered views of the expansive Vatican grounds. The Sistine Chapel, however, left me speechless. In 1968, it was very dark and dingy... but after the restoration, it seems so... joyful! "No
pictures allowed" seems like too much of a challenge for one of my guys. He sneaks a flashless shot of the ceilinged "finger touch between God and Adam" - "I'm going to hell for sure," he says.
We now rest near my "friends" the Swiss guards while we wait for our scavi tour to begin. (I made reservations by e-mail a month before) Our group of six was given a private tour (!) and found the tour fascinating but a bit long after a busy day at the Vatican. The guide's English was hard to follow as she showed and told us about the subterranean burial sites of early Christians culminating in the "proof" that St. Peter is where historians say he is. She also described the early foundations upon which the Basilica is built. We left
the tour and walked past the Swiss guards who saluted us by stomping the ground with their spears as we passed. I could see the
crowd behind the barriers eyeing us and heard them murmur, "who are they? why are they special?" We humans can be downright
silly at times, but our little group agrees that THIS salute from the guards was the highlight of our Scavi tour...
We are tired and rather than take the rush-hour-filled busses, decidef to take taxis back to the Royal Court. Following advice I'd heard time and again, I tried to elicit a quoted fare back to our hotel (I know it should be no more than 10 Euros.) The bald, mustached cabbie got indignant and mutters that's what the meter's for, blah, blah, blah... tourist!... blah, blah, blah... always, how much?...blah, blah, blah. He said, "just get in, I take you there!" Before I could object, my son and his girlfriend were in the cab! Resigned, and
fearing the worse, I followed. Well, this was the ride of my life! He raced through the city going 30-40 mph, staying a foot behind the car in front, driving into the opposite lane to pass a slow car, and veering six inches from a gal on a Vespa. It was as if he was driving a pregnant lady to the hospital. When I opened my half-closed eyes we were at our hotel and the meter read 7,72 Euros (!) -- well, no wonder if you drove like a bat out of hell! (Our other cab went a different route and registered 10 Euros.) For once the cabbie smiled as I gave him 10 and said keep the change (along with my stomach on the floor of his cab...) Guess I shouldn't have rewarded him... but the smile was worth it. That evening we enjoyed the Ristorante La Pretoria on Via Palestro right around the corner from our hotel. I
order "Mixed Fried Fish" and was surprised to get lots of fried calamari (squid) and large sardines (8 Euros). MMmm... tasty! - I left the sardine heads on the plate, though.
Day-3, Tuesday - Rome
Today we had reservations(www.ticketeria.it) for the Borghese Gallery at 11. We bought all-day bus/Metro tickets (5 Euros each) and
at 9 AM head for the subway near the Termini. The Metro is VERY CROWDED!!! We were all clutching our not-so-secret hiding places for money and family jewels. I always thought "crowded" meant you could still move your arms? This was REALLY crowded. I think everyone on the Metro had to breathe in unison. Our stop was the Spanish Steps, luckily only 3 stops from the Termini. The Spanish Steps was another of those sights where it paid to go early in the day to avoid the summer crowds.
After a few pictures we started the 25 minute stroll through the Borghese grounds to the Villa. (Curious to me, the 3-4 policemen at the Spanish Steps didn't know any English and were unable to point the right way to the Borghese Gardens - from the top? the bottom?) So we walked from the bottom at Via Sistina to Via Francesco Crispi which turned into Via Porto de Pinciana. The Borghese Gallery definitely was my favorite site in Rome. Bernini's sculptures David, Apollo and Daphne, and Pluto and Proserpina -- awesome -- well, you'll have to see for yourself.
After the Borghese we took the bus from Via Vittorio Veneto to the Largo Argentina (Sacred Area) site of Julius Caesar's assassination in one of the caves and which is now the famous cat sanctuary of Rome. We stopped at the Brek Cafetaria across the
street for a quick lunch (curry chicken 6 EUROS) and then paused to gaze at the 10-15 sleeping felines we spotted from the sidewalk above. Not the experience I expected. (I remember many more cats in the winter of 1968) -- maybe more cats come out in the cooler evening? We walked up the street to look at the Pantheon, stopped for gelato and then walked over and down to the Vittorio Emanuele Monument (wedding cake) before taking the H bus back to our hotel for a little rest before dinner.
It was our last night in Rome, after our naps, we decided to do the night stroll from Campo de Fiori to the Piazza Navona to the
Pantheon to the Trevi. We boarded a bus at the Termini and headed for Campo de Fiori (Largo Argentina bus stop is closest) Lots of people strolling in the busy squares. It was dusk and a bit cooler. Restaurants were starting to fill around Campo de Fiori, but we're not hungry yet. The Piazza Navona was busy with people selling knick-knacks, souvenirs and art work and gazing at the fountains all lit up. (The piazza is a little different from the romantic 11 PM winter stroll through an almost empty piazza I remember from many years ago.) At the Pantheon we're captivated by the musicians performing in the square in front of the lit
building. Going against my belief that "location" restaurants generally have poor quality food and high prices, we nevertheless stop to eat at one of the surrounding restaurants because a waiter beckoned to us as we perused the posted menu of Ristorante di Rienzo. And I
was pleasantly surprised! The restaurant offered great meals, a little pricey but not exorbitant, and a charming waiter who knew some English. (20 Euros for Veal Milanese, a large salad and some house wine - plus a few Euros for the musicians) A very magical
evening.
Day 4, Wednesday - Florence
We walked to the Termini to catch our 8:55 AM train to Florence (tickets purchased online www.raileurope.com). I chose 2nd class on this leg to compare with our 1st class leg to Venice. (The only difference to me is that there are 2 seats on either side of the aisle in 2nd class and 2 large seats on one side and 1 large seat on the other in 1st class.) The 1.5 hour ride was uneventful except that along the way the train inexpicably stops several times and we arrived in Florence 45 minutes late at 11:15. I listened as the conductor tried
to explain to a British family that not only did they need the reserved seating supplement (which they had), but also the train ticket itself. The conductor used my tickets as examples, but the Brits who bought their tickets from a travel agency were not convinced. In the end, they had no choice but to fork over the extra money.
I wanted to get in a visit to the Stibbert Museum (only open until 2 and closed on Thursdays) so we hustled to get there. We took taxies to our hotel - the Residenza il Villino - literally to drop off our luggage and took the same taxies to the Stibbert - located less than 1.5 mi NE of the train station. I'm touched when our young cabbie voiced his love for this city he's lived in all his life. The Stibbert holds the enormous late-19th century collection of Englishman Frederick Stibbert of suits of armor and weapons of the Middle Eastern and Christian warriors of the Crusades and also of the Far East Samurai. There was a room full of mounted knights on full-sized
armored horse models all lined up in procession - reminded me of what I've heard of the terracotta warriors in Sian, China. The exhibit was arranged well, but poorly lit. Afterwards, the staff called a 7-seater cab to pick us up and it delivered us to the Galleria dell' Accademia where we had a 1:30 reservation (made by a long distance call from the US) to see Michaelangelo's David.
Later, walking to our hotel, we stopped at the Hong Kong Restaurant for a wonderful late lunch of dimsum (small plates of dumplings, buns, eggrolls) and Chinese pasta.
Following our requisite afternoon nap, we strolled towards the Duomo, the Piazza della Signoria and the Ponte Vecchio for sunset photos. We had a non-descript dinner in a basement restaurant close to the Piazza della Signoria -- so-so food, inattentive service -- looked popular and inviting from the street, but "popular" meant our party of 6 was shuttled to an almost empty basement...
Day 5, Thursday - Florence
It was sprinkling as we got to the Campanile early at 9:00 AM before the crowds arrived. The gang wanted to climb to the top but I
passed. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore) opened at 10, so I used the time to take a closer look at the bronze doors of the
Baptistery and the surrounding shops and then held a place in line for them at the Duomo. I smiled when I saw a sign posted in
English listing among other things, "It is forbidden to do a (sic) indecent act." Hmm... interesting. I kept in touch with the others using our walkie talkies.
Following our visit to the Duomo, we walked over to the fascinating Science Museum located down the river from the
Uffizi Gallery with displays of Medieval/Renaissance scientific instruments, specifically Galileo's. When we finished, we lunched on pizza and pasta before our 1 PM reservations for the Uffizi Gallery (again made by long distance phone). Even with reservations, you still had to wait in line, but the line wasn't as bad as the one for those without reservations.
Another afternoon nap -- was it the heat? the walking? the overwhelming stimuli? jetlag? we usually don't take naps! We split up to do some shopping before dinner - I'm happy with a leather wallet I buy at the Rinascente, a department store no less. But the group bought Florentine plates, a Gucci purse, a Diesel knit cap, jewelry, street artist crafts and birthday presents. Besides the 27 year old, another son celebrated his 21st birthday!
The Residenza il Villino lived up to its reputation of being very quiet, close to the Duomo, very reasonable, and managed by a most efficient and personable host Sergio. From the US, I e-mailed him to make reservations for us at da il Latini - a popular family-style restaurant full of atmosphere, plenty of food and charming waiters. At 40 Euros per person, it was the most expensive meal of our trip, but also the most memorable. My sons still mimic the waiter's "we gotta roasta beef, roasta cheecken, roasta pork, and rabbeet. Wada you like? I bring for you, a leetle of everyting..." No kidding, he brought out a platter with enough meat for 12 people! And this followed antipasto of prosciutto and melon, cheese, 3 kinds of pasta, and 3 vegetable dishes that we all shared along with a big bottle of the house red. Lemon and chocolate desserts followed with vin santo (sweet dessert wine) and biscotti... And we were given two bottles of house wine on our way out. (I didn't get to dine at il Ritrovo, Ira, because they were on vacation...)
Day 6, Friday - Venice
Sergio called for a couple of taxies to take us to the train station to catch our 8:39 AM train to Venice. When I made the hotel reservations, I chose the Residenza because it was only 2/3 mile from the train station and we could walk, but we have been spoiled
with the comfort and ease of taxies, so we ride. Besides we may have had a bit too much wine the night before. The 2.5 hour train ride to Venice was on time and we arrived around 11. We took the slower #1 vaporetto to see the sights along the Grand Canal
before getting off at the Vallaresso stop in between the Accademia and Piazza San Marco stops. We easily find the Saturnia and
International Hotel, a luxury hotel but affordable with our flight & hotel package. It's roughly 2 blocks west of the Piazza San Marco where we spend a lot of time here the next couple of days feeding the pigeons and enjoying the ambience. I'd never been to Venice. We explored it together for the first time.
We walked to the Piazza San Marco and had some paninos for lunch before wandering the little streets towards the Rialto Bridge.
Afterwards we again had our afternoon rest and then glasses of champagne at the Saturnia's welcoming happy hour.
For dinner we strolled across the Accademia Bridge to look for the Chinese restaurant called the Pearl of the Oriente (La Perla D'Oriente). It was a memorable meal of dumplings and various meat and vegetable dishes - and compared favorably with Asian restaurants in our San Francisco area. We got lost on the way back to the hotel.
We kept following signs to San Marco, but at some point you start going the northern route instead of the southern one -- and they will both take you to San Marco! So, instead of backtracking and going across the Accademia Bridge again, we end up going across the Rialto Bridge! The streets are quieter now that the day-trippers have left. The pigeons at San Marco have roosted for the night.
Day 7, Saturday - Venice
Our last day in Italy - already?! The Saturnia had a full breakfast in an outside courtyard - and there were brazen birds waiting to fly away with our crumbs! We got to the San Marco Square bell tower early before the day crowd arrived. The pigeons were coo-cooing, patiently waiting for us. This time an elevator whisked you up to the top of the observation deck, so I participate. There are spectacular views from the top, but I don't think you want to be there when the bells start to ring.
From the US, I e-mailed the Saturnia to reserve the 9:55 time slot at the Doge's Palace for their "Secret Itineraries Tour." On the tour we learned the story of Casanova's imprisonment for questionable deeds and his escape. The cashier gave me a discount for the 5 students in our group (I had thought the discount was reserved for EU students only), so this was not a costly tour by any means. We were shown various council chambers, ornate meeting rooms and the secret passageways used by officials to avoid being seen by the public. The armory reminded me of the weapons we saw at the Stibbert in Florence. Though this weapons exhibit was smaller, it was better lit. Our guide spoke in a no-sense, clipped English reminiscent of a strict German frau "away from ze walls, please, zank you very much" but opened up when we laughed at her jokes. Following the tour, we were free to wander the Doge's Palace on our own.
Out on the square we fed the pigeons some more and just took in the atmosphere. No one wanted to wait in line to see the Basilica -
OK, so we'll save it for next time. It's my son's 21st birthday and he was happy simply feeding the pigeons - there were literally
hundreds of them! And the Hare Krishnas were having a gathering in front of the Basilica! I always wondered what happened to them - they used to be at airports in the 60's and 70's - but then it seems they disappeared. Well, here they were, IN Venice!
We were hungry wandering the streets and found lunch at a small restaurant on Campo San Zulian. Best pizza I have had on this
vacation - spicy salami (tasted like pepperoni in the US) - good crust with lots of cheese and sauce. (You don't order pepperoni pizza in Italy because you will get one with green and red peppers on it -- but of course, you knew this.) Someone in our party ordered spaghetti with clams and said later the clams weren't fresh -- way too fishy. You win some, you lose some. There's always gelato...
I wandered into a Tabacchi store on the Piazza San Marco - and even before I said anything, the older woman clerk yelled my way, "NO STAMPS!" Geez, Louise... how rude! (And how did she know, anyway?)
The Saturnia arranged for an evening gondola ride for the 6 of us (130 EUROS) -- (and they left a gratis bottle of champagne and 6
glasses in our room to celebrate my son's birthday!) I originally wanted a gondola ride with music (270 EUROS), but after hearing some of the gondoliers bellowing at the top of their voices in the afternoon, I opt for a quieter ride.
Before we met our gondolier, we walked for one last time to San Marcos to enjoy the rising full moon. We're picked up at the water entrance at the back of the Saturnia
at 8:30 and have a memorable ride in the smaller waterways and along the Grand Canal under an almost full moon. "Put-ta the
spaghetti on-a the stove-a, Mama, I'll be-a home-a in 30 minutes," the gondolier jokingly yelled up to a window. "and-a these-a homes, they eez for only-a reech people..." he told us.
At 10 we stopped for a late meal in a small Taverna - nothing remarkable. We tried looking for the Campo San Zulian restaurant we visited for lunch, but couldn't find it. Easy to do in Venice.
Day 8, Sunday - Home
The Saturnia woke us at 4:15 AM to catch our water taxi to the airport (120 Euros for 6). We got to the airport dock too early for the
5:45 shuttle to the Terminal, but it was an easy 15 minute walk. We retrieved a refund of the 12%VAT on the Gucci purse at the
Venice airport (it's 17% if you wait a couple of months for your refund). We arrived safe and sound back in California by 8 PM local time.
Things I came to realize:
-- It's not worth the time and effort to find restaurants others have raved about. I avoided restaurants with "bad" reviews, of course, but gave up trying to find the popular ones. It's like "lemmings to the sea" joining other tourists all looking for the same places. Like movies, the same restaurant can impress some and turn others off. I was happy enough with my own "finds" even if it meant I had a few bad meals here and there. C'est la vie... (Trust me, you can spend a lot of time even looking for the same restaurant you were at just 6 hours earlier.) Some of our most memorable meals were at Chinese restaurants! The Hong Kong in Florence and the Pearl of the Oriente in Venice. Granted we were getting tired of pizza and pasta, but these meals were plentiful, good and relatively inexpensive... (and yes, I am Chinese... maybe I was just missing my comfort food?)
-- Some people are rude no matter the nationality. With a clear conscience, some will cut in line to save themselves a walk of perhaps 8-9 minutes? And they're queuing up in front of St. Peter's Basilica, too, for Pete's sake. And what's with this gal tossing her cigarette butt onto St. Peter's Square? I'm not Catholic, but that's just wrong... Just once I wanted a bolt of lightning to...
-- Leave your hotel for the day with an umbrella, it won't rain. Leave it behind, it will.
-- If you don't buy something you like when you see it, you won't find it again. And it's at the cheapest price, too.
-- Don't try to stay on a diet while vacationing, just eat smaller portions. You have to taste everything - even gelato.
-- With a digital camera, you're not using costly film, take images of everything and anything - your hotel rooms, your waiters, meals (preferably before they're consumed), flowers, fauna, funny cars, signs, strange buildings, cute children, oldsters, anything that piques your curiousity - take multiple shots of the same pose in case someone closes their eyes or looks away.
-- There ARE mosquitos in Italy.
-- Our walkie-talkies came in handy when you need to contact each other in this small city. (Be sure to get European PMR walkie-talkies so you don't interfere with emergency frequencies. American FRS walkie-talkies use different frequencies and technically are not legal for use in Europe, though they will still work. I bought mine at www.amherst.co.uk
-- Naps are good, even when you don't think you have time to spare.
And finally, "Life is rarely as we would like it to be rather it is exactly as it is."
Arrivederci!
In late August 2004, my 3 sons in their 20's, 2 of their companions, and I flew from California to Rome where we spent 3 days, then took the train to Florence for 2 more days, and on to Venice for another 2. We flew home from Venice. With conflicting work and school schedules, a week was all the six of us could manage. So, I decided it was better than not going at all.
Regarding the weather and crowds, I expected worse, but was pleasantly surprised. (I'd been to Italy before, in the winter of 1968 some 36 years ago. My late husband and I explored Rome together when we were both US college students studying abroad. My youngest son is now the same age as we were then.)
I dislike hour to hour vacation scheduling. But some planning and organization is necessary to make the most of the limited time we had. But inspite of all this planning, we managed to miss our Air France flights out of NYC due to tremendous thunderstorms over JFK making it impossible for our JetBlue (from Oakland, CA) and United (from Los Angeles) flights to land on time. 40-50 other flights circled the NY skies with us. By the time we got to the Air France counter, we have 15 minutes to spare -- but our flight was closed for boarding. DRAT! AF said they would give me credit for our missed flight, but that I would have to purchase new tickets at the day-of-departure price (!) -- an extra $1084 per person for a total of over $6500 -- Geez! They say had I not separately booked connecting flights, they could've given me a simple change of reservation... say what? So... I swallowed this bitter pill and whipped out my credit card... I didn't even want to argue with them at this time... it was like being between a rock and a hard place... no way I can cancel our trip now -- but how would I absorb such a steep penalty?
Fortunately AF gets us on a flight just 1 1/2 hours later, so we didn't lose one of our precious days to this mess. I groused that at this price we'd better have terrific seats - and in agreement, Air France put us in business class (!) - but only on the first of the four European flights of our trip. Anyway, I was determined not to let this incident ruin my vacation -- yet guess what I thought about when I woke up at weird hours while on vacation? (when I returned home, I wrote a letter to AF pleading my case and am awaiting their reply... wish me luck...)
Day 1, Sunday - Rome
So, we arrived on a warm, blindingly sunny Sunday around 1 PM at the Rome Airport and took the Express train (9.50 EU) into the
city.
I like the area close to the Termini station because 1) we can easily walk to our hotel from the airport Express, 2) we can board any city bus after a day of sight-seeing to get back to our hotel as long as the bus stop roster listed "Termini" as a destination for that bus, 3) we can easily catch our early morning train departing for Florence, and 4) we can board near-empty buses at the beginning of their routes. (By the way, there's a terrific double-deck, open-top city tour bus, the # 110, that runs all day making its rounds in a 2-hour tour for 13 Euros if you want to stop-and-go at any of the 10 stops, or 8 Euros if you don't get on and off.)
Our next 3 nights are spent at the (Morgana) Royal Court Hotel - 3 blocks NE of the Termini station. As we walked to our hotel, my guys are impressed with the massive sea of scooters parked at a nearby curb. We learned to be "certain and quick" crossing the busy streets. After reading about the questionable safety around the train station, I was a bit nervous, but was relieved to find the area safe even at night. Our 3 comfortable air-conditioned rooms were very quiet and clean with spacious bathrooms of marble-tiled floors, tub/shower, and a bidet - which I used for soaking my weary feet. My tub even had whirlpool jets, but not so in the other bathrooms.We got settled in and showered. My son wondered why there was no shower curtain as there was now water all over the bathroom. We learn the fine art of lathering first and then rinsing off.
Understandably, everyone was excited and no one wanted to rest -- so at 4 we walked the 1.5 miles to the Colosseum passing St. Peter in Chains (San Pietro in Vincoli) on the way. The Colosseum was incredible as it suddenly loomed at the end of the street. The Forum became the casualty of our 2-hour delay. We choose to walk up the Via del Fori Imperiali - the street next to the Forum - because we are too tired to take in the ancient ruins - next time. We dine at a corner restaurant Angelino ai Fori, not on any particular list, but where we tired souls have an inexpensive, wonderful meal al fresco (80 Euro for 6, no wine). We raise glasses of water to toast my son who is 27 today, but we opt to celebrate another day. By the end of the meal at 8:30, I could see eyelids closing and people slowly fading. I, on the other hand, had tried Argonne Lab's jetlag diet (http://www.nmt.edu/~armiller/jetlag.htm) and was amazed I felt so "normal," -- I was skeptical about the diet, but it worked for me... [It's a diet started 3 days before departure and geared to resetting the body clock by alternately fasting and feasting to fool the body into believing day is night and night is day.]
Day 2, Monday - Rome
The troops got up early and after the more than ample hotel breakfast, we bought our "good for 75-min" bus ticket (1 Euro) at the Termini and caught the #40 express bus to the Vatican. The only problem with an express bus is that it makes fewer stops, so if you don't get off at the right place, the next stop may be quite a distance and you'll have to back track... oh, and by the way, they don't announce the stops... So when one of my sons asked where do we get off?... I suddenly realized I didn't know - but had better find out quickly. Luckily, I made the right guess.
In the summer, the crowds can be large, but if you get to St. Peter's Basilica by 9 AM or earlier, you have it made. The line to get in was almost non-existent (as opposed to the 11 AM line, but I'll tell you about that later...) And yes, they were strict about dress codes - one older woman with lots of jewelry and impeccably dressed in designer shorts and sleeveless top was separated from her appropriately attired family -- "Sorry, Signora..." the gatekeeper tells her. Later I heard from a Brit about a nearby store that sold baggy long pants and a T-shirt for 10 Euros. I'm amused picturing the older women in ill-fitting pants and a T-shirt.
As we wonder around the enormous Basilica taking pictures with the small morning crowd, it suddenly occured to me that I left the confirmation number of our 2:45 "(Scavi) Excavations Tour of the Necropolis" back at the hotel! I wondered if the Scavi Office would have the reservation under my name besides the number?... or would I have to go back to the hotel to retrieve the number? So while the gang took the elevator to the first level of the dome and later climb the stairs to the Cupola, I decided to inquire about my reservation. (I'd scaled the Dome 36 years ago, no need to do it again in the summer and I'm in no better shape now... ) I was surprised the Basilica ushers didn't speak much English, considering they deal primarily with tourists. Looking for the Scavi Office, I was directed to opposite corners of the Basilica (long, long walks) before being told I needed to exit the building and go between the gates guarded by the colorful Swiss guards to get to the office. These guards were very serious, impressive and imposing... (Read Dan Brown's "Angels and Demons" to gain some insight into these well-trained sentries.) but the one guard listened to my problem and
directed me to the Scavi Office on the Vatican grounds. Lucky for me, the office had my name AND number listed and I needn't return to my hotel!
Remember my mentioning the 11 AM line into St. Peter's? Well, it turned out, I made a one-way exit from the Basilica - well, once you leave you must get in line to re-enter... Dios mio... By 11, the line stretched clear across the front of the Square - a good 20-25 minute wait. That's OK, at least I didn't have to taxi it back to my hotel.
I met up with the gang at 11:30 and we headed towards the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel -- stopping for a lite lunch at one of the little sandwich/calzone bars along the way whose flyer we answer -- (grilled ham and cheese) sandwich and drink for 5 Euros! We had been drinking water all morning, but still VERY thirsty. It's really too warm to eat much and we're still full from breakfast, but the museum visit will be long and the 1.5 hour scavi tour followed at 2:45, so we grabbed a bite. We found the Vatican Museum overwhelming - too crowded, too long, and too much. Some of the open windows offered views of the expansive Vatican grounds. The Sistine Chapel, however, left me speechless. In 1968, it was very dark and dingy... but after the restoration, it seems so... joyful! "No
pictures allowed" seems like too much of a challenge for one of my guys. He sneaks a flashless shot of the ceilinged "finger touch between God and Adam" - "I'm going to hell for sure," he says.
We now rest near my "friends" the Swiss guards while we wait for our scavi tour to begin. (I made reservations by e-mail a month before) Our group of six was given a private tour (!) and found the tour fascinating but a bit long after a busy day at the Vatican. The guide's English was hard to follow as she showed and told us about the subterranean burial sites of early Christians culminating in the "proof" that St. Peter is where historians say he is. She also described the early foundations upon which the Basilica is built. We left
the tour and walked past the Swiss guards who saluted us by stomping the ground with their spears as we passed. I could see the
crowd behind the barriers eyeing us and heard them murmur, "who are they? why are they special?" We humans can be downright
silly at times, but our little group agrees that THIS salute from the guards was the highlight of our Scavi tour...
We are tired and rather than take the rush-hour-filled busses, decidef to take taxis back to the Royal Court. Following advice I'd heard time and again, I tried to elicit a quoted fare back to our hotel (I know it should be no more than 10 Euros.) The bald, mustached cabbie got indignant and mutters that's what the meter's for, blah, blah, blah... tourist!... blah, blah, blah... always, how much?...blah, blah, blah. He said, "just get in, I take you there!" Before I could object, my son and his girlfriend were in the cab! Resigned, and
fearing the worse, I followed. Well, this was the ride of my life! He raced through the city going 30-40 mph, staying a foot behind the car in front, driving into the opposite lane to pass a slow car, and veering six inches from a gal on a Vespa. It was as if he was driving a pregnant lady to the hospital. When I opened my half-closed eyes we were at our hotel and the meter read 7,72 Euros (!) -- well, no wonder if you drove like a bat out of hell! (Our other cab went a different route and registered 10 Euros.) For once the cabbie smiled as I gave him 10 and said keep the change (along with my stomach on the floor of his cab...) Guess I shouldn't have rewarded him... but the smile was worth it. That evening we enjoyed the Ristorante La Pretoria on Via Palestro right around the corner from our hotel. I
order "Mixed Fried Fish" and was surprised to get lots of fried calamari (squid) and large sardines (8 Euros). MMmm... tasty! - I left the sardine heads on the plate, though.
Day-3, Tuesday - Rome
Today we had reservations(www.ticketeria.it) for the Borghese Gallery at 11. We bought all-day bus/Metro tickets (5 Euros each) and
at 9 AM head for the subway near the Termini. The Metro is VERY CROWDED!!! We were all clutching our not-so-secret hiding places for money and family jewels. I always thought "crowded" meant you could still move your arms? This was REALLY crowded. I think everyone on the Metro had to breathe in unison. Our stop was the Spanish Steps, luckily only 3 stops from the Termini. The Spanish Steps was another of those sights where it paid to go early in the day to avoid the summer crowds.
After a few pictures we started the 25 minute stroll through the Borghese grounds to the Villa. (Curious to me, the 3-4 policemen at the Spanish Steps didn't know any English and were unable to point the right way to the Borghese Gardens - from the top? the bottom?) So we walked from the bottom at Via Sistina to Via Francesco Crispi which turned into Via Porto de Pinciana. The Borghese Gallery definitely was my favorite site in Rome. Bernini's sculptures David, Apollo and Daphne, and Pluto and Proserpina -- awesome -- well, you'll have to see for yourself.
After the Borghese we took the bus from Via Vittorio Veneto to the Largo Argentina (Sacred Area) site of Julius Caesar's assassination in one of the caves and which is now the famous cat sanctuary of Rome. We stopped at the Brek Cafetaria across the
street for a quick lunch (curry chicken 6 EUROS) and then paused to gaze at the 10-15 sleeping felines we spotted from the sidewalk above. Not the experience I expected. (I remember many more cats in the winter of 1968) -- maybe more cats come out in the cooler evening? We walked up the street to look at the Pantheon, stopped for gelato and then walked over and down to the Vittorio Emanuele Monument (wedding cake) before taking the H bus back to our hotel for a little rest before dinner.
It was our last night in Rome, after our naps, we decided to do the night stroll from Campo de Fiori to the Piazza Navona to the
Pantheon to the Trevi. We boarded a bus at the Termini and headed for Campo de Fiori (Largo Argentina bus stop is closest) Lots of people strolling in the busy squares. It was dusk and a bit cooler. Restaurants were starting to fill around Campo de Fiori, but we're not hungry yet. The Piazza Navona was busy with people selling knick-knacks, souvenirs and art work and gazing at the fountains all lit up. (The piazza is a little different from the romantic 11 PM winter stroll through an almost empty piazza I remember from many years ago.) At the Pantheon we're captivated by the musicians performing in the square in front of the lit
building. Going against my belief that "location" restaurants generally have poor quality food and high prices, we nevertheless stop to eat at one of the surrounding restaurants because a waiter beckoned to us as we perused the posted menu of Ristorante di Rienzo. And I
was pleasantly surprised! The restaurant offered great meals, a little pricey but not exorbitant, and a charming waiter who knew some English. (20 Euros for Veal Milanese, a large salad and some house wine - plus a few Euros for the musicians) A very magical
evening.
Day 4, Wednesday - Florence
We walked to the Termini to catch our 8:55 AM train to Florence (tickets purchased online www.raileurope.com). I chose 2nd class on this leg to compare with our 1st class leg to Venice. (The only difference to me is that there are 2 seats on either side of the aisle in 2nd class and 2 large seats on one side and 1 large seat on the other in 1st class.) The 1.5 hour ride was uneventful except that along the way the train inexpicably stops several times and we arrived in Florence 45 minutes late at 11:15. I listened as the conductor tried
to explain to a British family that not only did they need the reserved seating supplement (which they had), but also the train ticket itself. The conductor used my tickets as examples, but the Brits who bought their tickets from a travel agency were not convinced. In the end, they had no choice but to fork over the extra money.
I wanted to get in a visit to the Stibbert Museum (only open until 2 and closed on Thursdays) so we hustled to get there. We took taxies to our hotel - the Residenza il Villino - literally to drop off our luggage and took the same taxies to the Stibbert - located less than 1.5 mi NE of the train station. I'm touched when our young cabbie voiced his love for this city he's lived in all his life. The Stibbert holds the enormous late-19th century collection of Englishman Frederick Stibbert of suits of armor and weapons of the Middle Eastern and Christian warriors of the Crusades and also of the Far East Samurai. There was a room full of mounted knights on full-sized
armored horse models all lined up in procession - reminded me of what I've heard of the terracotta warriors in Sian, China. The exhibit was arranged well, but poorly lit. Afterwards, the staff called a 7-seater cab to pick us up and it delivered us to the Galleria dell' Accademia where we had a 1:30 reservation (made by a long distance call from the US) to see Michaelangelo's David.
Later, walking to our hotel, we stopped at the Hong Kong Restaurant for a wonderful late lunch of dimsum (small plates of dumplings, buns, eggrolls) and Chinese pasta.
Following our requisite afternoon nap, we strolled towards the Duomo, the Piazza della Signoria and the Ponte Vecchio for sunset photos. We had a non-descript dinner in a basement restaurant close to the Piazza della Signoria -- so-so food, inattentive service -- looked popular and inviting from the street, but "popular" meant our party of 6 was shuttled to an almost empty basement...
Day 5, Thursday - Florence
It was sprinkling as we got to the Campanile early at 9:00 AM before the crowds arrived. The gang wanted to climb to the top but I
passed. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore) opened at 10, so I used the time to take a closer look at the bronze doors of the
Baptistery and the surrounding shops and then held a place in line for them at the Duomo. I smiled when I saw a sign posted in
English listing among other things, "It is forbidden to do a (sic) indecent act." Hmm... interesting. I kept in touch with the others using our walkie talkies.
Following our visit to the Duomo, we walked over to the fascinating Science Museum located down the river from the
Uffizi Gallery with displays of Medieval/Renaissance scientific instruments, specifically Galileo's. When we finished, we lunched on pizza and pasta before our 1 PM reservations for the Uffizi Gallery (again made by long distance phone). Even with reservations, you still had to wait in line, but the line wasn't as bad as the one for those without reservations.
Another afternoon nap -- was it the heat? the walking? the overwhelming stimuli? jetlag? we usually don't take naps! We split up to do some shopping before dinner - I'm happy with a leather wallet I buy at the Rinascente, a department store no less. But the group bought Florentine plates, a Gucci purse, a Diesel knit cap, jewelry, street artist crafts and birthday presents. Besides the 27 year old, another son celebrated his 21st birthday!
The Residenza il Villino lived up to its reputation of being very quiet, close to the Duomo, very reasonable, and managed by a most efficient and personable host Sergio. From the US, I e-mailed him to make reservations for us at da il Latini - a popular family-style restaurant full of atmosphere, plenty of food and charming waiters. At 40 Euros per person, it was the most expensive meal of our trip, but also the most memorable. My sons still mimic the waiter's "we gotta roasta beef, roasta cheecken, roasta pork, and rabbeet. Wada you like? I bring for you, a leetle of everyting..." No kidding, he brought out a platter with enough meat for 12 people! And this followed antipasto of prosciutto and melon, cheese, 3 kinds of pasta, and 3 vegetable dishes that we all shared along with a big bottle of the house red. Lemon and chocolate desserts followed with vin santo (sweet dessert wine) and biscotti... And we were given two bottles of house wine on our way out. (I didn't get to dine at il Ritrovo, Ira, because they were on vacation...)
Day 6, Friday - Venice
Sergio called for a couple of taxies to take us to the train station to catch our 8:39 AM train to Venice. When I made the hotel reservations, I chose the Residenza because it was only 2/3 mile from the train station and we could walk, but we have been spoiled
with the comfort and ease of taxies, so we ride. Besides we may have had a bit too much wine the night before. The 2.5 hour train ride to Venice was on time and we arrived around 11. We took the slower #1 vaporetto to see the sights along the Grand Canal
before getting off at the Vallaresso stop in between the Accademia and Piazza San Marco stops. We easily find the Saturnia and
International Hotel, a luxury hotel but affordable with our flight & hotel package. It's roughly 2 blocks west of the Piazza San Marco where we spend a lot of time here the next couple of days feeding the pigeons and enjoying the ambience. I'd never been to Venice. We explored it together for the first time.
We walked to the Piazza San Marco and had some paninos for lunch before wandering the little streets towards the Rialto Bridge.
Afterwards we again had our afternoon rest and then glasses of champagne at the Saturnia's welcoming happy hour.
For dinner we strolled across the Accademia Bridge to look for the Chinese restaurant called the Pearl of the Oriente (La Perla D'Oriente). It was a memorable meal of dumplings and various meat and vegetable dishes - and compared favorably with Asian restaurants in our San Francisco area. We got lost on the way back to the hotel.
We kept following signs to San Marco, but at some point you start going the northern route instead of the southern one -- and they will both take you to San Marco! So, instead of backtracking and going across the Accademia Bridge again, we end up going across the Rialto Bridge! The streets are quieter now that the day-trippers have left. The pigeons at San Marco have roosted for the night.
Day 7, Saturday - Venice
Our last day in Italy - already?! The Saturnia had a full breakfast in an outside courtyard - and there were brazen birds waiting to fly away with our crumbs! We got to the San Marco Square bell tower early before the day crowd arrived. The pigeons were coo-cooing, patiently waiting for us. This time an elevator whisked you up to the top of the observation deck, so I participate. There are spectacular views from the top, but I don't think you want to be there when the bells start to ring.
From the US, I e-mailed the Saturnia to reserve the 9:55 time slot at the Doge's Palace for their "Secret Itineraries Tour." On the tour we learned the story of Casanova's imprisonment for questionable deeds and his escape. The cashier gave me a discount for the 5 students in our group (I had thought the discount was reserved for EU students only), so this was not a costly tour by any means. We were shown various council chambers, ornate meeting rooms and the secret passageways used by officials to avoid being seen by the public. The armory reminded me of the weapons we saw at the Stibbert in Florence. Though this weapons exhibit was smaller, it was better lit. Our guide spoke in a no-sense, clipped English reminiscent of a strict German frau "away from ze walls, please, zank you very much" but opened up when we laughed at her jokes. Following the tour, we were free to wander the Doge's Palace on our own.
Out on the square we fed the pigeons some more and just took in the atmosphere. No one wanted to wait in line to see the Basilica -
OK, so we'll save it for next time. It's my son's 21st birthday and he was happy simply feeding the pigeons - there were literally
hundreds of them! And the Hare Krishnas were having a gathering in front of the Basilica! I always wondered what happened to them - they used to be at airports in the 60's and 70's - but then it seems they disappeared. Well, here they were, IN Venice!
We were hungry wandering the streets and found lunch at a small restaurant on Campo San Zulian. Best pizza I have had on this
vacation - spicy salami (tasted like pepperoni in the US) - good crust with lots of cheese and sauce. (You don't order pepperoni pizza in Italy because you will get one with green and red peppers on it -- but of course, you knew this.) Someone in our party ordered spaghetti with clams and said later the clams weren't fresh -- way too fishy. You win some, you lose some. There's always gelato...
I wandered into a Tabacchi store on the Piazza San Marco - and even before I said anything, the older woman clerk yelled my way, "NO STAMPS!" Geez, Louise... how rude! (And how did she know, anyway?)
The Saturnia arranged for an evening gondola ride for the 6 of us (130 EUROS) -- (and they left a gratis bottle of champagne and 6
glasses in our room to celebrate my son's birthday!) I originally wanted a gondola ride with music (270 EUROS), but after hearing some of the gondoliers bellowing at the top of their voices in the afternoon, I opt for a quieter ride.
Before we met our gondolier, we walked for one last time to San Marcos to enjoy the rising full moon. We're picked up at the water entrance at the back of the Saturnia
at 8:30 and have a memorable ride in the smaller waterways and along the Grand Canal under an almost full moon. "Put-ta the
spaghetti on-a the stove-a, Mama, I'll be-a home-a in 30 minutes," the gondolier jokingly yelled up to a window. "and-a these-a homes, they eez for only-a reech people..." he told us.
At 10 we stopped for a late meal in a small Taverna - nothing remarkable. We tried looking for the Campo San Zulian restaurant we visited for lunch, but couldn't find it. Easy to do in Venice.
Day 8, Sunday - Home
The Saturnia woke us at 4:15 AM to catch our water taxi to the airport (120 Euros for 6). We got to the airport dock too early for the
5:45 shuttle to the Terminal, but it was an easy 15 minute walk. We retrieved a refund of the 12%VAT on the Gucci purse at the
Venice airport (it's 17% if you wait a couple of months for your refund). We arrived safe and sound back in California by 8 PM local time.
Things I came to realize:
-- It's not worth the time and effort to find restaurants others have raved about. I avoided restaurants with "bad" reviews, of course, but gave up trying to find the popular ones. It's like "lemmings to the sea" joining other tourists all looking for the same places. Like movies, the same restaurant can impress some and turn others off. I was happy enough with my own "finds" even if it meant I had a few bad meals here and there. C'est la vie... (Trust me, you can spend a lot of time even looking for the same restaurant you were at just 6 hours earlier.) Some of our most memorable meals were at Chinese restaurants! The Hong Kong in Florence and the Pearl of the Oriente in Venice. Granted we were getting tired of pizza and pasta, but these meals were plentiful, good and relatively inexpensive... (and yes, I am Chinese... maybe I was just missing my comfort food?)
-- Some people are rude no matter the nationality. With a clear conscience, some will cut in line to save themselves a walk of perhaps 8-9 minutes? And they're queuing up in front of St. Peter's Basilica, too, for Pete's sake. And what's with this gal tossing her cigarette butt onto St. Peter's Square? I'm not Catholic, but that's just wrong... Just once I wanted a bolt of lightning to...
-- Leave your hotel for the day with an umbrella, it won't rain. Leave it behind, it will.
-- If you don't buy something you like when you see it, you won't find it again. And it's at the cheapest price, too.
-- Don't try to stay on a diet while vacationing, just eat smaller portions. You have to taste everything - even gelato.
-- With a digital camera, you're not using costly film, take images of everything and anything - your hotel rooms, your waiters, meals (preferably before they're consumed), flowers, fauna, funny cars, signs, strange buildings, cute children, oldsters, anything that piques your curiousity - take multiple shots of the same pose in case someone closes their eyes or looks away.
-- There ARE mosquitos in Italy.
-- Our walkie-talkies came in handy when you need to contact each other in this small city. (Be sure to get European PMR walkie-talkies so you don't interfere with emergency frequencies. American FRS walkie-talkies use different frequencies and technically are not legal for use in Europe, though they will still work. I bought mine at www.amherst.co.uk
-- Naps are good, even when you don't think you have time to spare.
And finally, "Life is rarely as we would like it to be rather it is exactly as it is."
Arrivederci!
Sep 10th, 2004, 04:21 PM
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Welcome home. Thanks for the trip report. Sounds like you had a fantastic time. Although I've never travelled quite so hurriedly as your group did, I agree that it's always better to just go rather than wait for the perfect time (when everyone can go for exactly 3 weeks or whatever).
Sep 10th, 2004, 04:53 PM
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Blithespirit, first of all I have to say that I LOVE your screen name. It reminds me of a quaint little watering hole of the same name that I frequented during my 20's in Houston, Texas.
Sounds like you had a fabulous trip and I just loved the comedic writing in your report! Your son must have had a fabulous 21st birthday that will be well remembered.
We wanted to make it to the Science Museum in Florence, but never did, so maybe we'll see it on the next trip.
You must have had the EXACT same guide we did at the Doge's Palace. I felt like she was right here in the room with me while reading your report!
I, too, have wondered what ever happened to the Hare Krishna's. I used to see them (and even hang with them on occassion) all the time for years in Houston, but can't remember the last time I ran across one of them.
Thanks for the lively trip report. It was fun to relive Italy.
Sounds like you had a fabulous trip and I just loved the comedic writing in your report! Your son must have had a fabulous 21st birthday that will be well remembered.
We wanted to make it to the Science Museum in Florence, but never did, so maybe we'll see it on the next trip.
You must have had the EXACT same guide we did at the Doge's Palace. I felt like she was right here in the room with me while reading your report!
I, too, have wondered what ever happened to the Hare Krishna's. I used to see them (and even hang with them on occassion) all the time for years in Houston, but can't remember the last time I ran across one of them.
Thanks for the lively trip report. It was fun to relive Italy.
Sep 10th, 2004, 06:54 PM
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Blithespirit,
thank you for such a detailed and entertaining report! We have visitied all three cities but not on the same trip. I'm glad your group had such a good time and what memorable birthdays for your sons, especially the 21st. I'm planning the next trip!
thank you for such a detailed and entertaining report! We have visitied all three cities but not on the same trip. I'm glad your group had such a good time and what memorable birthdays for your sons, especially the 21st. I'm planning the next trip!
Sep 11th, 2004, 04:56 AM
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Hi leely,
Thanks for sharing,
Good that you didn't let the airline snafu ruin your trip.
> (I didn't get to dine at il Ritrovo, Ira, because they were on vacation...)
Be sure to eat there on your next visit.
Thanks for sharing,
Good that you didn't let the airline snafu ruin your trip.
> (I didn't get to dine at il Ritrovo, Ira, because they were on vacation...)
Be sure to eat there on your next visit.
Sep 11th, 2004, 06:46 AM
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This was a great trip report. Enjoyed it. One comment struck me though about the "3 policemen a the Spanish Steps." They did not speak English.
The first time in Italy I too was caught by that on a lonely train siding in Central Italy when I discovered no one but me knew English. It was then I realized, I was in Italy, and they spoke Italian.
Before my next trip to Italy, I went to the University and learned Italian. And, you what, my future trips were enhanced greatly.
There are a couple of things one should learn before going to italy. Learn how to count in Italian. Learn the meaning of Buon giorno or buona sera although Ialians usually shorten these to "giorno" or "sera." Per favore and mi scusi are good to know. Parla inglese is useful. Dove si trova_______? Just some basic Italian.
My wife learned two Italian words, quanto? and credito?
By the way, I am not being critical of the original comment, just trying to be useful.
The first time in Italy I too was caught by that on a lonely train siding in Central Italy when I discovered no one but me knew English. It was then I realized, I was in Italy, and they spoke Italian.
Before my next trip to Italy, I went to the University and learned Italian. And, you what, my future trips were enhanced greatly.
There are a couple of things one should learn before going to italy. Learn how to count in Italian. Learn the meaning of Buon giorno or buona sera although Ialians usually shorten these to "giorno" or "sera." Per favore and mi scusi are good to know. Parla inglese is useful. Dove si trova_______? Just some basic Italian.
My wife learned two Italian words, quanto? and credito?
By the way, I am not being critical of the original comment, just trying to be useful.
Sep 11th, 2004, 07:59 AM
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kslanker: Oh, I totally agree with you. In fact my friends were making fun of me because for a one week trip I was trying to learn Italian with CD's... Anyway, I started my inquiry with the Spanish Steps police with a "mi scusi" and a "dove a Galleria Borghese" followed by a finger pointing up the stairs and another pointing down the street, but they seemed clueless. Guess I'll need more than a few chapters of the old Beginner's Italian...
Sep 11th, 2004, 04:26 PM
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Thanks for a great trip report, it was very interesting reading. And I hope that by reading your report some people will realize that you can see a lot, and still have a great time, even if you only have a week (or whatever limited time). I know there are a lot of people out there who haven't gone to Europe, or taken certain trips because "they don't have enough" time. Long trips are best, but short fast paced trips are certainly better than nothing, and as you've shown, can be very rewarding. Thanks again.
Sep 11th, 2004, 04:28 PM
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Oh, and I just remembered. The best Chinese food I have EVER had was in Rome (on the street between the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain). I am still, two years later, looking for someplace with Chinese food that good.
Sep 11th, 2004, 05:48 PM
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Excellent report!! I really enjoyed reading it. Because of time restraints we've often taken short trips and I've found if you're organized you can really see and enjoy very much in a short amount of time.
Sep 12th, 2004, 06:27 AM
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Great trip report! We're headed to Rome, Florence, Venice for the first time next year and I appreciate all the info / insight you provided. By the way, I have a friend who swears by Argonne Lab's diet--I have yet to try it as I am use to functioning in a sleep deprived state
Sep 12th, 2004, 01:44 PM
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blithespirit: "...to the Largo Argentina (Sacred Area) site of Julius Caesar's assassination in one of the caves and which is now the famous cat sanctuary of Rome".
Did the 'cat people' tell you that, I know that's what they claim. I've talked with them before, a very nice and pleasant bunch doing good work.
If that was true Julius Caesar would have been killed in middle of the Senate's floor.
Ancient writers say he was seated on an elaborate camp-stool on the podium (speaker's platform) in the rear of the Curia Pompey. The 'Statue of Pompey' at whose base he died at is directly behind him also on the podium.
Another clue is he had a stylus (pen) in his hand to sign official documents. This would be something brought to him and not something he carried in. An inkpot would be needed to sign papyrus scrolls. Also probably a small table even if he was also just writing on wax tablets.
Casca who was behind him struck the 1st blow, a stab wound in the neck/shoulder. Caesar grabbed his hand and stabbed him in the arm with his stylus. Now he was attacked by the others.
The Curia Julia was small, what is exposed today is roughly the rear eighth of the building. Which would encompass the podium.
This photo shows the substructure foundation of the rear of the Curia Julia,
http://www.vroma.org/images/raia_ima...goargent11.jpg
Beneath the photographer's feet is roughly where the one side of the Curia was, the otherside is where that fence is (look past the tree on the right, it's just before the 2nd tree).
The rear wall ran to that stone structure in the left lower foreground over to and past that plastic covering.
That lone tree on the right is dead center between both sides on the podium. Of course the actual podium is missing today and was above it in the air somewhere maybe a meter or so.
So picture a floor 1m above this foundation and then a rear wall. If you give the rear wall a thickness of 1m and a 1m base for the Statue of Pompey that tree on the right would be right in front of it. And just to the right of the tree would be the front center of the podium where a speaker would stand of sit.
(1) Archaeologists claim that this is the rear section of the Curia Pompey.
(2) Ancient historians claim he was seated on the podium.
Which leads me to believe that that is the assassination site and a bit of an obsession of mine. Regards, Walter
Did the 'cat people' tell you that
, I know that's what they claim. I've talked with them before, a very nice and pleasant bunch doing good work.If that was true Julius Caesar would have been killed in middle of the Senate's floor.
Ancient writers say he was seated on an elaborate camp-stool on the podium (speaker's platform) in the rear of the Curia Pompey. The 'Statue of Pompey' at whose base he died at is directly behind him also on the podium.
Another clue is he had a stylus (pen) in his hand to sign official documents. This would be something brought to him and not something he carried in. An inkpot would be needed to sign papyrus scrolls. Also probably a small table even if he was also just writing on wax tablets.
Casca who was behind him struck the 1st blow, a stab wound in the neck/shoulder. Caesar grabbed his hand and stabbed him in the arm with his stylus. Now he was attacked by the others.
The Curia Julia was small, what is exposed today is roughly the rear eighth of the building. Which would encompass the podium.
This photo shows the substructure foundation of the rear of the Curia Julia,
http://www.vroma.org/images/raia_ima...goargent11.jpg
Beneath the photographer's feet is roughly where the one side of the Curia was, the otherside is where that fence is (look past the tree on the right, it's just before the 2nd tree).
The rear wall ran to that stone structure in the left lower foreground over to and past that plastic covering.
That lone tree on the right is dead center between both sides on the podium. Of course the actual podium is missing today and was above it in the air somewhere maybe a meter or so.
So picture a floor 1m above this foundation and then a rear wall. If you give the rear wall a thickness of 1m and a 1m base for the Statue of Pompey that tree on the right would be right in front of it. And just to the right of the tree would be the front center of the podium where a speaker would stand of sit.
(1) Archaeologists claim that this is the rear section of the Curia Pompey.
(2) Ancient historians claim he was seated on the podium.
Which leads me to believe that that is the assassination site and a bit of an obsession of mine
. Regards, Walter
Sep 15th, 2004, 02:44 AM
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Thank you for your wonderful report and have added it to my packet of travel notes. We are leaving for Italy on 9/26 - for 3 weeks - and our entire itinerary was built on comments and ideas shared on Fodors and Slowtrav.
My business will require me to spend considerable time at internet cafes so I'll try to post trip reports on a close to real time basis
My business will require me to spend considerable time at internet cafes so I'll try to post trip reports on a close to real time basis
