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I left my heart in Italy... Fluffy's trip report

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I left my heart in Italy... Fluffy's trip report

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Old Oct 9th, 2003, 07:53 PM
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I left my heart in Italy... Fluffy's trip report

Italy, just the word makes my heart beat, every time I go it's always magic.
I would like to thank all the Fodorites , on this board for the invaluable information and advice I have received, with honorable mentions going to Bob the Navigator & Elaine.

Itinerary
Florence 4 nigts
Venice 4 nights
Capri 4 nights

DAY ONE- arrived in Florence via Air France from JFK to CDG and connected to Florence, with all the nightmare stories I have heard about this connection; I can validate that this is not the easiest connection the terminal is really confusing, I literally just made the bus to the plane. Plan on at least 1 1/2 hours if you want to make this connection.
I arrived at the wounderful Tourist House Ghiberti( T.G.) tired and jet lagged and was met by Claudio, a slight man with sly smile; I was shocked when he gingerly picked up both my suit case and my sister's 48lb suit case (I know hard to believe, but true)and carried them both up a flight and a half of stairs without breaking a sweat.
I can not say enough positive things about this charming completely restored B&B with four star standards and that includes the service which is unparalled no request was too large or small, for Claudio.The rooms are large completely renovated, everything is FRESH the rooms are docorated with lovely fabrics, in the simple Florintine style with tiled floors, brand spanking new bathrooms with modern facilities, comfy beds, & a great location directly behind the Dumo.There is a jacuzzi and sauna for guests, buffet breakfast sans eggs( no surprise there) computer access from the rooms, as well as complete sound proofing.

After freshening up my sis and I went around the corner to Osteria Gigi( see T.G.'s web site for info.) this was a simple inexpensive place with mostly working class Italians, even the waiter who supposedly spoke English only spoke about 4 words, which forced me to speak Italian, which is sad & embarassing at times.The food was very good, simple Italian Soul Food, a good place if you will be doing any sight seeing near the Dumo.I loved the gnocci.

After lunch we walked to the Chappela Brancacci, I was moved to tears.Then we went to the Chapel of Santa Trina & Santa Felicia to view some more frescos. By this time it was late afternoon and I was struggling to stay awake so we headed back to the hotel to take advantage of the jacuzzi and relax on the patio with some wine.
We ate dinner at trattoria delle Belledonne (see Fodors for info.) if Italians have kitch this would be it, a small intimate place with a hodge pogdge of styles, the food was good and very reasonable the fresh tortallini with a sublime butter and sage sauce was my favorite.It was the perfect end to a long day we walked back to the hotel and crashed.
Day 2- Florence
Since my sis had never been to Florence I insisted we go to the Uffuzi and Accademia, which she begrudgingly agreeded to, she's not exaclly a museum person, but I think she enjoyed it in spite of herself.
Claudio made reservations for us so no waiting in line; with that overwith it was on to the important things shopping and eating, we had a long leisurely lunch at Osteria Cinghaile Bianco, suggested numerous times on this board... thanks Fodorites.
Then it was bloodhound level shopping I went crazy at S.M.N Farmaceutica and Passmaneria Toscana( I have been carrying a postcard from P.T. from my first visit to Florence 10 years ago)I bought beautiful fabrics, pillow covers, & tassels for gifts.
Exausted and weary the sisters went and had a glass of wine, okay maybe two, at Osteria Caffe Italiano. We sat outside and people watched, before our last stop the Santa Croce... another ahhhh moment of a life time.
We ate dinner that night at Il Ritrovo (thanks Dale) it was all I expected it to be the ambiance, food /wine, and amazing hosts.I do have one ? what's with this huge portions report, my piece of fish was miniscule...did I order the wrong thing? Marco and Rosetta just rock even with my tiny fish portion , the home made pasta is out of this world.

Day 3- We slept till 10:30 Claudio looked at us like " You lazy Americans". I went to the Museo San Marco sans sis, to see the fra Angelico monks cells, 15 minutes just was not enough I was devistated to have to leave so soon.
I met sis for lunch at Osteria Porcellino- fabulous meal, this is a great place with wounderful atmosphere without being stuffy. I could not believe how reasonable the prices were.It was off to the Borgello, I could not believe it my sister loved it the best of any place I took her to.
Dinner that night was truely mouth watering, we ate at Osteria del Cinghaile Bianco (another great suggestion Fodorites)we ate dinner next to 2 American women, I loved the comment that one of them made when I ordered the steak " if I want steak I'll go to Omaha", I did'nt come to Italy to eat steak".

Day 4- Siena, what can I say that has not already been said this may be my favorite new place in Italy.After arriving back in Florence we were starving and I am so glad we were I made reservations at Pandamonio (thanks Matt)Via del Leone 50/r ph# 055224002-this was the most amazing culinary experience of my life; I barely have words to discribe it, it's like try to explain really great sex,somtimes you just have to be there.This is my #1 pick for Florence dinning.

Day 5 Venice- the train ride from hell, otherwise known as attack of the UGLY AMERICAN...
We are off to Venice to plan my wedding , for Sept. of next year, all is well the sky is blue, wait the ATTACK OF THE UGLY AMERICAN!!
the UGULY AMERICAN had a full fledged nervous breakdown/psychotic episode for 3 hours on the Euro Star to Venice apparently his luggage, including his passport had been stolen, and he had a mentle breakdown on the train ... 3 hours of hearing" I hate Europeans, I want to line them up and f...ing kill them.At one point he said to his wife "if you ever ask me to come to Europe again I'm going to devorece you". There was one moment of comic relief , when his wife said " at least we have our sundries" everyone on the train got a chuckle out of that.When we arrived in Venice, there was an announcement to stay on the train, at this point I WANTED OFF THE TRAIN FROM HELL.Moments latter 10 police officers physically removed the UGLY AMERICAN from the train, we could hear him yelling as we waited in line for the water taxi, that we shared with a lovely mother daughter duo fron Boston (30 euro. per couple and worth every penny).
Venice day #1 gets off to a bad start, we arrive at hotel al Piave, this was without question the worst hotel experience of my life.Let my start by saying I know this is a small family run establishment and a budget hotel so I really was not expecting that much to begin with. When we checked in I was asked " You are staying for 5 nights?" I replied " no only 4 , I emailed you".Then I was yelled at for at least 15 minutes & informed that the email was never received. Finally after numerous apologies on my part I finally said " Would you like us to leave?".
Then we were taken to our apt. which was terrible,only after I got another lecture about how it was high season for them, and we were costing them money.At this point I looked at my sister and said" I miss Claudio" we both burst into hysterical laughter, I know this pissed off Maduza( spl?), as we called her.
It has been a long day and we are in search of food and wine, we go down to the lobby sheepishly, and encounter Meduza and her mother, then they both start yelling at us in Italian, we are scared and run.

The best part of the day was eating at la Rivetta( spl?), Sergio our waiter was the best, when I tried to tell him that I wanted a rich, heavy red wine in Italian, his replie was "you do not want a wine for litttle babies". We were in good hands I ordered nothing and said just bring the best items on your menu; we started off with a sea food platter wich included colored fish, I had never tried and loved it.Then it was the sea food risotto, fallowed by the grilled scampi the best ever.We were there for 2 hours and met four young kids from Ca.we all shared bottles of wine and got drunk.When I asked Sergio " what's for dessert?" his replie was " it's a surprise", he brough us a huge piece of warm flourless chocatlate cake that we all shared. It was a good end to a bad day, we went back to Meduza's and crahed.I had a horrible nights sleep there were no real drapes in the room and there was a flashing red light going off all night, as well as the street noise coming from the ally, and somone checking in at mid night, with a crying baby.Tomarrow is another day.

Day 2 Venice- our mother arrives to help me plan my wedding, we unite against Meduza, my mom said "it really pisses me off when someone is mean to one of my kids" this is about as angery as my mother ever gets. It was getting to be funny we did not care any more, I was planning my wedding it was a good day.
Thanks to the leg work I did on this board and espically with the suggestions of Bob the Navigator and Elaine, it was really easy, the wedding will take place at Chipranni's( sorry I can't spell to save my life) and the pre dinner will be at da' Raffle seated over looking the canal. We will have a late luch the next afternoon at Locanda Chipranni's, where the wedding party will be stying.
After 2 days of planning and eating sample lunchs, dinners, & cake it's time to chill we shop and eat.I spend one day at the Peggy G. I loved it espically after 4 days of religious art in Florence.

I cry when we leave Venice, a part of my heart will always be there.We leave the house of Meduza for Capri( fly Alpi Air to Naples), I spent many summers as a child here so it's sort of like going home, but not.We arrive in Naples and are taken to the ferry dock by Cirro, an adorable man in his mid 20's who said" When I am at work I am not married, when I am at home I am married". I laughed hysericaly , my mother was offended, my sister just wanted to go home to her dog.
Capri- 4 nights at la Mamela hotel what a breath of fresh air after the house of Meduza.We are greated by the lovely Stephina, a cross between Audry Hepburn and Ingrid Bergman, just gorgeous & so helpful with the eyes of an angel.
Sis and I eat dinner with a childhood friend who still spends every summer on Capri( a native to the island) his mother still has his chilhood home on the island.We eat dinner at da' Girgio (the best meal I had on Capri a must) and sip wine after dinner, I had my first summer romance on Capri... memories.
We only have 3 days left in Italy and I am heat sick already, we spend the day by the beautiful pool at la Mamela, and latter swim in the Mediterranean sea, nothing makes me more hungery, tired & horney then a day in the Mediterranean sea and sun.
My favorite places on Capria' Girgio & da' Gemma restaurants, for tiles go see Adele or her daughter Silvia, the best on the island ph# 39 081 8370960 email [email protected] or "the old man" as he is known, just up the road from Adele, he's got great tiles of Capri painted 60 years ago.

Thanks fodorites for all your suggestions please feel free to ask any questions, I promise I will try to keep my answers short.

la dolce Italy
Fluffy
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Old Oct 9th, 2003, 09:13 PM
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Fluffy, thanks for the trip report!

How do we contact Tourist House Ghiberti? We're going to be in Florence for the Christmas season.
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Old Oct 9th, 2003, 09:30 PM
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Oh my goodness fluffy I got all verclempt and goose bumpy reading your report, it is wonderful, thank you! You and I have at least two things in common, one we both love Italy and two we are both can't spell to save our lives You said it first lol...

Your trip reminded me of my first trip to Italy several years ago when I went with one of my best pals. We encountered our Medusas, trains from hell and ugly Americans too, we also laughed our butts off the whole way.... Also you really made me look forward to my trip in May when I go with not 1 but 2 of my sisters!

Your story about Osteria Gigi in Florence reminded me of one night in Rome when I was trying to speak Italian to a darling waiter and it wasn't working very well (my Italian, not the waiter). I was attempting and not so well, to tell him someone recommended his restaurant to me and I was so glad I came because he was adorable but he thought I was saying he was horrible not adorable - another great laugh in communication after we got that straight...

Anyway welcome home again & thanks for your report. Bravo Fluffy

Be well, E
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 12:00 AM
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Well, Fluffy. After debating over staying at the Al Piave and the Hotel Campiello in Venice next week, I finally opted for the Campiello. My decision had nothing to do with the handsome desk clerk. Nothing. After reading your post, I am *so* glad I passed on the Al Piave. When I'm in town I think I'll stroll by and peak in the window. Maybe I'll get lucky and spot a Gorgon woman with snaky hair, shrieking at her guests as they run through the lobby.
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 02:59 AM
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It's against the law in Italy to complain and gripe and moan and groan?
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 03:33 AM
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Rufus, I think it's against the law to threaten to line people up and kill them while riding on a train.
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 03:59 AM
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Wow Fluffy. I knew you were planning a wedding in Venice but it sounds like you grew up in Italy? Would you be willing to share? Is your Mother still living in Europe or do I have it all wrong? How did you choose Al Piave BTW? When you say the wedding party will be staying at Locanda Cipriani is that on one of the islands? More questions. Was the first Venice restaurant La Rivista in the Ca' Pisani or is there a La Rivetta?

Well welcome home and lots of good luck!
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 04:36 AM
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Most trip reports bore me to death before getting to the end of the first paragraph, which is usually when I move on. This one held on to me for longer and actually brought back some memories.

CDG is an awful airport. One of the world's worst. It seems most connections there are dreadful, especially if you're in a hurry.

The idiot on the train deserved to be bitch-slapped and I would have been the perfect passenger to do it. This is where 28 years in NYC and a single mugging come in handy. I'm not afraid of anyone.

Your Venice hotel decision is one of the most important for a visit to this lovely place. Good research is imperative. Also, whenever you alter your reservation with ANY hotel, make sure you get confirmation of the change. It's safe to assume that if you didn't receive confirmation, they didn't receive your correspondence. This is when a phone call becomes necessary. Don't EVER assume all e-mails were received and changes noted without a comfirmation.
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 06:18 AM
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Hey Fluffy,
What a great trip report! Now don't be surprised if someone contacts you for the movie rights. What a great movie. thinking......of course you have all the right ingredients so far ...I know, you have to run into your 1st love and have some bittersweet moments there but then all will come right. The movie can end with you, your sister and mom laughing and crying (discretely so your eyes don't ruin) as you are there resplendent in your wedding finery. And then the fade out as the wedding music begins and it pans out to a shot of you there in the middle of Venice. Wow! Your life sounds like fun. Keep it up.
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 06:25 AM
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Oh Fluffy! I laughed, I cried, I mentally pictured everything...Lovely report, thank you so very much. And next year, I look forward to hearing about your wedding!

BC
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 06:41 AM
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Fluffy: About the airfrance CDG transfer: I am thinking of booking to florence through cdg. they tell me that I will arrive into 2F and then my plane to florence will depart from 2F as well. Sounds easy in theory but I have heard so many horror stories, including yours! Did you have to change terminals to get to florence?? Anyone else with experience on this? Thanks and welcome back!!
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 06:49 AM
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Thank you fluffy for such a great read this morning!
Now I am wondering what became of the More than Ugly American~
This will go into my Italy file
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 06:53 AM
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You just can't rely on any advance CDG instructions. You HAVE to consider they'll change once you land. It's happened to me more times than I choose to remember. I'm still waiting to see when terminal instructions will occur as originally stated. Maybe this Christmas. I'm not holding my breath.
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 07:18 AM
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The problems at CDG are mostly caused by ADP, the entity which operates the airport, not Air France. See this regarding the new terminal for example:
http://double6.airfrance.fr/double6/...e?OpenDocument

It's an absolute scandal that there still isn't a light rail system connecting the terminals there. AFAIK, an underground one was already partly completed years ago, but had such grave conceptual flaws that they have started over entirely with the planning process - pathetic!

ADP is well known in France for being the place where incompetent (ex-)politicos and civil servants get shoved when no one else wants them.

NYCFoodSnob:
My mom grew up in NY and that's what she would have said/done as well. Since I grew up in sneaky Switzerland, I probably would have done what someone else on the train obviously did - walk to another car, whip out the cell and call the cops. We Swiss don't like to do the dirty work you see.

Andre
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 07:43 AM
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Wow Fluffy - reading this I felt like I was back in Italy again. I can't imagine how awful that train ride was to endure!

If you return to Venice before your wedding, try Locanda Orseolo. Matteo and Barbara will make your stay with them just as enjoyable at Claudio and Christelle did at Tourist House Ghiberti.

Looking forward to your post wedding/honeymoon trip report - Best Wishes.

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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 08:17 AM
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Hi All- the web address for Tourist HouseGhiberti is:
www.touristhouseghiberti.com
The reason I choose Al Piave is two fold I needed an apt. for 3 and I had read so many positive reviews I figured how bad chould it be, also I wanted to check out a resonably priced hotel to recommend to guests that may not be able to or want to spend over $200- a night, so live and learn needless to say I won't be recommending it to anyone.
The Ciprani decision was ultimately made by my mother( you know purse strings) and who am I to argue,Chipriani will be discounting the rooms since we will also be having our wedding there.
I did not grow up in Italy not even close, when I was growing up my father's business partner had a house on Capri, and my father would rent it while he was doing business in Europe, but I'm still American to the bone.
My mom lives in Ca. and I told her I would never forgive her if she did not come to Italy I can't remeber the last time it was just the 3 of us girls together.
The restaurant is la Rivetta, again it's very possible I am spelling it wrong , but I have the business card and I will make the necessary correction, it's a simple place not fancy real Italians & some Americans in the know,it's very close to St. Mark's.I will post the correct spelling address and ph#( promise) ask for Sergio or Dominique.
Rookie thanks for your hotel rec. in Venice, do you have there web site we seem to be on the same hotel vibe.
Again all questions are welcome
Fluff

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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 08:26 AM
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Hi fluffy
so glad you enjoyed your trip (mostly) and that the Venice planning is working out.
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 08:26 AM
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Ivy ,sorry I did not answer you question about CDG.. yes I had to change terminals, be sure you have some time you will need at least an hour.
Best of luck
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 08:31 AM
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Thanks Fluffy! Based on your glowing reviews, I've booked four nights in December at Tourist House Ghiberti. I'm looking forward to staying there!
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Old Oct 10th, 2003, 08:33 AM
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Fluffy,

A wedding at the Cipriani?? That should be fabulous!

BTW, is your sister still single? I could teach her how to pack

Andre
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