LVSue's France Report
May 31st, 2003, 10:11 PM
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LVSue's France Report
I know that you all have been eagerly waiting to see if I was able to accomplish all (half?) of what I set out in my itinerary, and the answer is, of course, NO! However, all the advance planning really helped! Thanks to all of you for your input, invaluable as usual! So here goes.
Mad dash to the airport only to remember en route that I had forgotten my underwear (how can you do that? I'm just talented, I guess--had it laid out in a separate place), so my dear petsitter made the run back to the house and brought it to me. What a doll! Sure glad I wasn't taking a taxi!
Flights were the same arduous workout they always are. LV to Dallas to CDG. I did manage to get bulkhead on the second leg, and the Hindu meals seem healthier. But, to my shock, free booze on American is a thing of the past. I know it's better not to, but I'm always in a mood to celebrate, just the fact that I'm finally on the plane (with underwear), if nothing else.
Arrived right on time--plenty of time to hit the ATM and head for Terminal 1 to meet my traveling companion, a women whose six kids I used to babysit 40-some-odd years ago. She had never been to France, and I was ready to show it to her!
We picked up our TGV tickets and were soon on our way to Avignon with picnic lunch we picked up in the airport train station. We checked in at the Ibis Gare, but were not too thrilled with it, so on the way back from dinner at Maitre Kanter (an OK place), we spotted an arch with a haunting square/garden beyond it at the end of a tiny street and we went to check it out. It was the Cloister St. Louis with hotel built around it. To make a long story short, we switched to the hotel for a great room with balcony (not much of a view, but roomy with sofa sitting area too!) for 135 euro/night. We loved it. It's a Clarion, so www.choicehotels.com should locate it for you.
Tuesday morning we moved and then had a wonderful lunch at Le Chandelier (29 rue de la Sarailleise) on a shady terrace. Prix fixe for lunch was 12.50. Thanks, Mariarosa.
That afternoon we explored Avignon, took the little train to the Rocher du Dom, and generally had a splendid day--the weather was gorgeous, so it was just perfect for seeing the Place de l'Horloge and the bridge. It was here I discovered that Bette's schedule and mine were totally opposite. She goes to bed at 8:30 and me at midnight. She doesn't like a heavy meal at night, and I wake up in the middle of the night starving, so I set out for Maitre Kanter by myself around 9:00 for a flammekuchen (sort of an Alsacian pizza) to stave off midnight pangs. Before I left, we flirted (or at least I did) with the cute room attendant who came to turn down the bed, so we got 2 chocolates each instead of one. When we only got one the next night, I felt betrayed, but he must have been off, because Thursday we got two again.
Mad dash to the airport only to remember en route that I had forgotten my underwear (how can you do that? I'm just talented, I guess--had it laid out in a separate place), so my dear petsitter made the run back to the house and brought it to me. What a doll! Sure glad I wasn't taking a taxi!
Flights were the same arduous workout they always are. LV to Dallas to CDG. I did manage to get bulkhead on the second leg, and the Hindu meals seem healthier. But, to my shock, free booze on American is a thing of the past. I know it's better not to, but I'm always in a mood to celebrate, just the fact that I'm finally on the plane (with underwear), if nothing else.
Arrived right on time--plenty of time to hit the ATM and head for Terminal 1 to meet my traveling companion, a women whose six kids I used to babysit 40-some-odd years ago. She had never been to France, and I was ready to show it to her!
We picked up our TGV tickets and were soon on our way to Avignon with picnic lunch we picked up in the airport train station. We checked in at the Ibis Gare, but were not too thrilled with it, so on the way back from dinner at Maitre Kanter (an OK place), we spotted an arch with a haunting square/garden beyond it at the end of a tiny street and we went to check it out. It was the Cloister St. Louis with hotel built around it. To make a long story short, we switched to the hotel for a great room with balcony (not much of a view, but roomy with sofa sitting area too!) for 135 euro/night. We loved it. It's a Clarion, so www.choicehotels.com should locate it for you.
Tuesday morning we moved and then had a wonderful lunch at Le Chandelier (29 rue de la Sarailleise) on a shady terrace. Prix fixe for lunch was 12.50. Thanks, Mariarosa.
That afternoon we explored Avignon, took the little train to the Rocher du Dom, and generally had a splendid day--the weather was gorgeous, so it was just perfect for seeing the Place de l'Horloge and the bridge. It was here I discovered that Bette's schedule and mine were totally opposite. She goes to bed at 8:30 and me at midnight. She doesn't like a heavy meal at night, and I wake up in the middle of the night starving, so I set out for Maitre Kanter by myself around 9:00 for a flammekuchen (sort of an Alsacian pizza) to stave off midnight pangs. Before I left, we flirted (or at least I did) with the cute room attendant who came to turn down the bed, so we got 2 chocolates each instead of one. When we only got one the next night, I felt betrayed, but he must have been off, because Thursday we got two again.
May 31st, 2003, 10:21 PM
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Wednesday, we went to Nimes in the rain, which was intermittent all day. We toured the coliseum, went to the Maison Carree, and to the Temple of Diana in the gardens. Lunch was something quick (Brioche Dore?). I had thought of taking a bus back to Avignon via the Pont du Gard, but fatigue and rain changed our mind when we headed back that afternoon, and we booked a tour for the next day at Lieutaud for 12 euro ea. (with the Avignon pass available for free at the tourist office). With the pass you pay full entry to the first museum and reduced after that, including Lieutaud tours, which is now located in the Grand Hotel Avignon near the train station.
For dinner we went to l'Epicerie, tucked in behind the church (10 pl St. Pierre). Rain prevented outdoor dining, but we loved the appetizer tasting platter (big enough for one for a main course), which we shared. My rabbit was too lemony, but Bette liked her main course (lamb?). Total of 65 euro w/wine.
Thursday, Mayday, dawned glorious and off we went for a beautiful morning at the Pont du Gard. It made me so glad we had skipped it the day before. Upon return, we walked up the rue de la Republique to a café for lunch. While we were eating, Bette said, "Sue, turn and look. That's just how I picture the typical French man." Sure enough, an old man in a beret and overcoat with long scarf wrapped around his neck. He came into our café and the waiter took his order (plat du jour, of course). He was obviously a regular, as the waiter asked him if he wanted water as usual and he said, "Well, today I'll have a glass of wine." (This in French and, yes, I was eavesdropping.) I thought the special occasion was the holiday, but the next thing we knew, the waiter had come with a candle in an ashtray and two of them were singing "Bonne Anniversaire" (Happy Birthday) to the old guy.
We asked the waiter if we could buy his lunch for his birthday, but the waiter said that he had his habits, and maybe it would be better if we just bought him a glass of champagne, so we did. The waiter brought it, indicated it was from us, and the guy nodded in acknowledgment. Then he leaned over and said, "Where're you all from?" Just our luck that our "typical" Frenchman was from the US, and planning to move from Avignon back to St. George, Utah!
Late that afternoon, my friends from l'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue picked us up. We had a drink on the river, then they dropped us off so we could wander and shop. We walked back to their house, had dinner and afterwards they took us to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon for a view of Avignon at night. What a great day!
Friday, off to Arles for the day. Amazing how different it is from Nimes. I love Cadogan's description: "Modern Arles, sitting amidst its ruins, is still somehow charming, in spite of a general scruffiness that seems more intentional than natural." We had a salad for lunch and saw as many of the sights as we could: the coliseum, the theatre, St. Trophime and the cloisters.
That evening thanks to advice from Dave and Freq/Flyer we went to Le Vernet for a lovely "good-bye to the south" dinner. The garden is indeed lovely, and our meal was delightful. I feel really bad that I didn't write down what we had, but we enjoyed it a lot. It came to 117 euros including wine, but there was a very reasonable 26 euro menu, so it could have been a lot less. We found that in the South, the set menus were indeed a good deal, but in Paris not so much. (I just add up the separate prices--see the Eiffel Tower.) Le Vernet is on rue Joseph Vernet, not too far from Le Petit Bedon at 70 rue JV. Le Petit Bedon gets great reviews here, but we wanted to eat outside.
For dinner we went to l'Epicerie, tucked in behind the church (10 pl St. Pierre). Rain prevented outdoor dining, but we loved the appetizer tasting platter (big enough for one for a main course), which we shared. My rabbit was too lemony, but Bette liked her main course (lamb?). Total of 65 euro w/wine.
Thursday, Mayday, dawned glorious and off we went for a beautiful morning at the Pont du Gard. It made me so glad we had skipped it the day before. Upon return, we walked up the rue de la Republique to a café for lunch. While we were eating, Bette said, "Sue, turn and look. That's just how I picture the typical French man." Sure enough, an old man in a beret and overcoat with long scarf wrapped around his neck. He came into our café and the waiter took his order (plat du jour, of course). He was obviously a regular, as the waiter asked him if he wanted water as usual and he said, "Well, today I'll have a glass of wine." (This in French and, yes, I was eavesdropping.) I thought the special occasion was the holiday, but the next thing we knew, the waiter had come with a candle in an ashtray and two of them were singing "Bonne Anniversaire" (Happy Birthday) to the old guy.
We asked the waiter if we could buy his lunch for his birthday, but the waiter said that he had his habits, and maybe it would be better if we just bought him a glass of champagne, so we did. The waiter brought it, indicated it was from us, and the guy nodded in acknowledgment. Then he leaned over and said, "Where're you all from?" Just our luck that our "typical" Frenchman was from the US, and planning to move from Avignon back to St. George, Utah!
Late that afternoon, my friends from l'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue picked us up. We had a drink on the river, then they dropped us off so we could wander and shop. We walked back to their house, had dinner and afterwards they took us to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon for a view of Avignon at night. What a great day!
Friday, off to Arles for the day. Amazing how different it is from Nimes. I love Cadogan's description: "Modern Arles, sitting amidst its ruins, is still somehow charming, in spite of a general scruffiness that seems more intentional than natural." We had a salad for lunch and saw as many of the sights as we could: the coliseum, the theatre, St. Trophime and the cloisters.
That evening thanks to advice from Dave and Freq/Flyer we went to Le Vernet for a lovely "good-bye to the south" dinner. The garden is indeed lovely, and our meal was delightful. I feel really bad that I didn't write down what we had, but we enjoyed it a lot. It came to 117 euros including wine, but there was a very reasonable 26 euro menu, so it could have been a lot less. We found that in the South, the set menus were indeed a good deal, but in Paris not so much. (I just add up the separate prices--see the Eiffel Tower.) Le Vernet is on rue Joseph Vernet, not too far from Le Petit Bedon at 70 rue JV. Le Petit Bedon gets great reviews here, but we wanted to eat outside.
Jun 1st, 2003, 04:51 AM
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Sue, What a great account of your trip! I love the story of the birthday man! We will be in France in a few short weeks, so I have a vested interest in your report. Thanks for taking the time to report...I am eager to hear about the rest!
Jun 1st, 2003, 05:13 AM
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Sue - I'm so glad you had a good trip!! I'm planning to head back to Provence in late June, and your itin is very very similar to what I'm planning, so it was really nice to hear the details!!
Also, very glad to hear that you enjoyed Le Vernet, and that it's seemingly as good as I recalled!! I think another dinner on the "terrace" would be just what the doctor ordered!!
Thanks for the trip report! Best wishes, Dave
Also, very glad to hear that you enjoyed Le Vernet, and that it's seemingly as good as I recalled!! I think another dinner on the "terrace" would be just what the doctor ordered!!
Thanks for the trip report! Best wishes, Dave
Jun 1st, 2003, 06:26 AM
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Dave, where are you staying in Provence? We chose St. Remy, and are hoping it is central enough. It is kind of a hard decision! We are hesitant to stay in Avignon b/c we have a car and that sounds like it could be a pain in Avignon, and will want to see the countryside. Any advice?
Jun 1st, 2003, 07:08 AM
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wren - You should have no problems with St. Remy since you have the car...OTOH: I am staying in Avignon (with car) simply because I wanted access to a more "urban" setting without having to drive there.....
If I choose to go into the countryside, I'm not anticipating any problems, but if I choose to stay in Avignon, or perhaps grab a train to Aix or some such thing......then it'll be more convenient for me....
The number of villages/towns/sights within a very close proximity of one another is the real reason why I should think that St Remy would be fine...
Best wishes for a great trip!! Dave
If I choose to go into the countryside, I'm not anticipating any problems, but if I choose to stay in Avignon, or perhaps grab a train to Aix or some such thing......then it'll be more convenient for me....
The number of villages/towns/sights within a very close proximity of one another is the real reason why I should think that St Remy would be fine...
Best wishes for a great trip!! Dave
Jun 1st, 2003, 07:18 AM
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Thanks for your report which reminded me of my first trip to Paris, too many years ago. At that time I thought all Frenchmen were berets. I saw not a one.Years later in Basque country, I noticed the men commonly wore them.
Now I know why the caps are referred to as Basque berets.
The rain is heavy today in Boston, I heard it was 85 in Paris.
Now I know why the caps are referred to as Basque berets.
The rain is heavy today in Boston, I heard it was 85 in Paris.
Jun 1st, 2003, 07:43 AM
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Hi LVSue!
Thanks for posting your trip report for us - sounded ever so lovely!
People keep telling me I need to see the rest of France, and I want to, especially based on reports like yours that show what a peaceful, lovely place it is.
Typical to leave the underwear at home!!
It's always something just before you go.
And your traveling companion, I assume then that she was also an early riser? Maybe you were a slightly later riser?
I just love your description of the Cloister St. Louis with its "arch with a haunting square/garden beyond it at the end of a tiny street". Wonderful!!
Thanks for posting your trip report for us - sounded ever so lovely!
People keep telling me I need to see the rest of France, and I want to, especially based on reports like yours that show what a peaceful, lovely place it is.
Typical to leave the underwear at home!!
It's always something just before you go.And your traveling companion, I assume then that she was also an early riser? Maybe you were a slightly later riser?
I just love your description of the Cloister St. Louis with its "arch with a haunting square/garden beyond it at the end of a tiny street". Wonderful!!
Jun 1st, 2003, 09:16 AM
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Wren, based on everything I have read, I would have preferred to base myself in St. Remy, but both of us were too chicken to drive a car. Avignon proved to be a good base for public transportation. When my husband was alive, we had found a nice apartment to rent in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (it was my former landlady we met up with), so we used to base ourselves there, but St. Remy really looks like a good option.
Dave, I have been to Avignon a couple of times before and have never particularly liked it. What a shock to discover that we found it beautiful. It really helped to get off the beaten track (rue de la Republique) for restaurants, thanks to yours, Mariarosa's and others' suggestions. I can honestly say I'm looking forward to going back.
Dave, I have been to Avignon a couple of times before and have never particularly liked it. What a shock to discover that we found it beautiful. It really helped to get off the beaten track (rue de la Republique) for restaurants, thanks to yours, Mariarosa's and others' suggestions. I can honestly say I'm looking forward to going back.
Jun 1st, 2003, 10:14 AM
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Bookchick, actually we rose about the same time--she just got a lot more sleep than I did. 
Yes, as we looked down the "tiny little street" Bette said, "That's calling me." So after seeing the rooms, we decided that it was indeed fated that we stay there.
Yes, as we looked down the "tiny little street" Bette said, "That's calling me." So after seeing the rooms, we decided that it was indeed fated that we stay there.
Jun 1st, 2003, 10:41 AM
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You and Bette sound like me and my h.
He's in Bed and I'm ready to party, so ended up by myself at a local cafe, watching the passing parade. You can't find a better place than Avignon as far as getting around. As a none driver, I spent 17 wonderful days alone in Villeneuve-lés-Avignon but most days in Avignon or out of town by way of bus, train, and boat.
He's in Bed and I'm ready to party, so ended up by myself at a local cafe, watching the passing parade. You can't find a better place than Avignon as far as getting around. As a none driver, I spent 17 wonderful days alone in Villeneuve-lés-Avignon but most days in Avignon or out of town by way of bus, train, and boat.
Jun 1st, 2003, 05:45 PM
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Saturday, we were up and off early for the TGV. Catching the bus was a piece of cake because the bus stop is right around the corner from Le Cloitre St. Louis. Since we were in first class (head of the train), were first in line for a taxi and off to our apartment on rue Delambre, not too far from La Coupole.
This was a rent-from-owner deal (vrbo.com) and the owners turned out to be Scottish, so absolutely no problem with pre-trip communications. Large living/dining area, windows across the whole end and a view of a teeny piece of the Eiffel Tower at the very edge. Two comfortable sofas and reasonably comfortable chairs at the round glass table. Hall closet, toilet in little room, separate kitchen (no microwave or coffeemaker other than French press), reasonable sized bathroom with shower/tub and bidet, large bedroom with twin beds (a little squishy) and large closet, iron, hairdryer (which I discovered the last day), and phone. ($750/week--so far he is charging euros=dollars, so it was really a deal) We loved it! Since the website pictures had shown it with the curtains drawn, I had a nightmare in the south that we drew the curtains and there was just a little porthole in the wall. (I don't obsess or anything). We were very pleased. There was a small deposit to cover phone charges, but he hasn't cashed it yet--I told him I would mail him euros if the charges weren't great so he wouldn't have the bank charges for cashing a check in dollars. Haven't heard yet.
The codes for front door, elevator access and elevator were a bit confusing, so a couple of times we sat in the elevator, pushed what we thought was the code and it didn't move, but by the end of the week, we were pretty much experts. We immediately took off for Inno to stock up on food, and of course bought way too much. What is it about French supermarkets? I also spotted a game store where I could buy a new version of Trivial Pursuit for my French group at home. We are about through the 1998 game. We also got a carnet for Sunday and a Carte Orange for the rest of the week.
We were pooped, so we had a Scotch, ate some of our goodies, and collapsed.
Sunday dawned glorious, which just suited my plans. We went to the Museum of the Middle Ages at Cluny (Metro Cluny) and it was a perfect morning activity, especially because it was free (1st Sunday of the month). Then we hotfooted it to Place Medard, where Monge meets Mouffetard in hopes that the accordionist would be there. And indeed he was--we timed it perfectly. The accordionist and his group were out and singing with the crowd, who had the words he had passed out. People were dancing. It was just like being in a village. There was a nattily dressed older gentleman in a tweed golf hat dancing with the ladies and he asked Bette to dance. After two dances, she said: "I'm sorry, but I don't speak French." He said, "That's OK. I'm from Boston." Twice in two weeks? Amazing.
We wandered along Mouffetard, bought some chicken and fries and bread for lunch, which we ate on the stairs in a teeny parklet. Then, all fueled up, we headed for Sacre Coeur. Wandered the streets a little and took the funicular up. After photo ops, headed to Place du Tertre. I was kinda shocked. Used to be all the artists were in the square, but now it seems that various cafes have moved out there. Frankly, I think I like that better. We had a beer at a café on the square and thanks to the beggarly birds, struck up a conversation with a charming young couple. Took each other's pictures (and the birds') and it turned out he had spent July & August in Iowa one year (agricultural classes), where one of Bette's daughters lives. Small world. He was not impressed with Iowa.
By this time we were dragging, so we headed back and got cleaned up for dinner at La Coupole. It was fun, but rather subdued, and it seems that they have reduced many of their towering seafood platters to a single layer, decidedly less spectacular. Bette, ever the cook, had been watching the center waiter stand, where someone had been preparing a salad, she was sure, but she never saw the salad appear. They were putting something red and vegetables in a bowl. We finally determined that it was steak tartare! Our oysters and steaks were good and the moelleux au chocolat totally yummy! And the meal with wine came to 125 euros.
I'm still working at this, so bear with me.
This was a rent-from-owner deal (vrbo.com) and the owners turned out to be Scottish, so absolutely no problem with pre-trip communications. Large living/dining area, windows across the whole end and a view of a teeny piece of the Eiffel Tower at the very edge. Two comfortable sofas and reasonably comfortable chairs at the round glass table. Hall closet, toilet in little room, separate kitchen (no microwave or coffeemaker other than French press), reasonable sized bathroom with shower/tub and bidet, large bedroom with twin beds (a little squishy) and large closet, iron, hairdryer (which I discovered the last day), and phone. ($750/week--so far he is charging euros=dollars, so it was really a deal) We loved it! Since the website pictures had shown it with the curtains drawn, I had a nightmare in the south that we drew the curtains and there was just a little porthole in the wall. (I don't obsess or anything). We were very pleased. There was a small deposit to cover phone charges, but he hasn't cashed it yet--I told him I would mail him euros if the charges weren't great so he wouldn't have the bank charges for cashing a check in dollars. Haven't heard yet.
The codes for front door, elevator access and elevator were a bit confusing, so a couple of times we sat in the elevator, pushed what we thought was the code and it didn't move, but by the end of the week, we were pretty much experts. We immediately took off for Inno to stock up on food, and of course bought way too much. What is it about French supermarkets? I also spotted a game store where I could buy a new version of Trivial Pursuit for my French group at home. We are about through the 1998 game. We also got a carnet for Sunday and a Carte Orange for the rest of the week.
We were pooped, so we had a Scotch, ate some of our goodies, and collapsed.
Sunday dawned glorious, which just suited my plans. We went to the Museum of the Middle Ages at Cluny (Metro Cluny) and it was a perfect morning activity, especially because it was free (1st Sunday of the month). Then we hotfooted it to Place Medard, where Monge meets Mouffetard in hopes that the accordionist would be there. And indeed he was--we timed it perfectly. The accordionist and his group were out and singing with the crowd, who had the words he had passed out. People were dancing. It was just like being in a village. There was a nattily dressed older gentleman in a tweed golf hat dancing with the ladies and he asked Bette to dance. After two dances, she said: "I'm sorry, but I don't speak French." He said, "That's OK. I'm from Boston." Twice in two weeks? Amazing.
We wandered along Mouffetard, bought some chicken and fries and bread for lunch, which we ate on the stairs in a teeny parklet. Then, all fueled up, we headed for Sacre Coeur. Wandered the streets a little and took the funicular up. After photo ops, headed to Place du Tertre. I was kinda shocked. Used to be all the artists were in the square, but now it seems that various cafes have moved out there. Frankly, I think I like that better. We had a beer at a café on the square and thanks to the beggarly birds, struck up a conversation with a charming young couple. Took each other's pictures (and the birds') and it turned out he had spent July & August in Iowa one year (agricultural classes), where one of Bette's daughters lives. Small world. He was not impressed with Iowa.
By this time we were dragging, so we headed back and got cleaned up for dinner at La Coupole. It was fun, but rather subdued, and it seems that they have reduced many of their towering seafood platters to a single layer, decidedly less spectacular. Bette, ever the cook, had been watching the center waiter stand, where someone had been preparing a salad, she was sure, but she never saw the salad appear. They were putting something red and vegetables in a bowl. We finally determined that it was steak tartare! Our oysters and steaks were good and the moelleux au chocolat totally yummy! And the meal with wine came to 125 euros.
I'm still working at this, so bear with me.
Jun 1st, 2003, 07:45 PM
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Welcome back Sue....I am happy that you enjoyed La provence..It is my favourite place in France..I will be there also July 7, my cousin lives at Les Angles, just outsite Avignon...I have spent many happy summer there when i was a teen....
Jun 2nd, 2003, 02:47 AM
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Kismetchimera, We will be in Provence on the 8 July. Since you have experience there, could I run our plans by you?
Plan A: Drive from Lyon thru Grenoble thru Alps & Ardeche Gorges. Stop in small village on way or go all way down to Cassis. Stay there and explore. Then move to St. Remy for 2 nights, and explore area. (Arles, Avignon, wine country)
Plan B: Drive A7 directly from Lyon to St. Remy.and use as base for 3 nights.
Ideas?
Plan A: Drive from Lyon thru Grenoble thru Alps & Ardeche Gorges. Stop in small village on way or go all way down to Cassis. Stay there and explore. Then move to St. Remy for 2 nights, and explore area. (Arles, Avignon, wine country)
Plan B: Drive A7 directly from Lyon to St. Remy.and use as base for 3 nights.
Ideas?
Jun 2nd, 2003, 05:28 AM
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Hi, Sue! Loving your report! I have just copied and printed it to take with me, as I will be following in your footsteps during part of our trip.
Wish us luck on the strike front: hope we can get from Paris to Avignon on June 7!
Thanks so much for your past help as well as this report. Will let you and other Fodorites know how we fare.
Your "psychic doppelganger,"
Betty
Wish us luck on the strike front: hope we can get from Paris to Avignon on June 7!
Thanks so much for your past help as well as this report. Will let you and other Fodorites know how we fare.
Your "psychic doppelganger,"
Betty
Jun 3rd, 2003, 06:27 AM
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Monday was rainy, but that was our day for the Louvre, so we didn't really care. The great thing about an apartment is being able to have coffee and breakfast before you get dressed (I don't percolate too well in the morning.) And since Bette is one of those up-and-at-'em type people, she did most of the fixing, and cleaning up as well. We took a bus that let us off on the Seine side of the Louvre and walked into the pyramid courtyard from the back. Took some pix of the obelisk and Arc de Triomphe through the arch of the little Caroussel and stood in line for tickets, about 10 minutes. We had decided that the museum pass just wasn't worth it for us since we get pooped out about mid afternoon. I love the automatic ticket machines--couldn't figure out why anyone bothered to stand in line at the ticket windows.
Well, I had printed up something called the Louvre in 3 Hours that someone had raved about here, but it was just like reading Greek to me. I got lost at the first turn, so we fended for ourselves and did pretty well. We particularly enjoyed the Greek and Roman section, especially a lovely statue called the Three Graces and a huge one of a goddess whose unpronounceable name begins with M.
After about 3 hours, we decided on lunch and headed for Café Ruc, again recommended by someone here who stays in that area (on St. Honoré about a block off Palais Royal). It was pricey, but excellent. Just what the doctor ordered. I had duck with a wonderful sauce, and Bette had a huge cheeseburger. Total with a glass of Brouilly each was € 52.
Then we walked through the gardens of the Palais Royal and took the metro 3 stops to Hotel de Ville and the BHV. Oh yes, I had also forgotten the adaptor for my camera recharger, so the whole time we were in the South, I would take one picture of each site and immediately turn off the camera. (Looked at FNAC in Avignon, but no luck.) Unfortunately, none of the US-France adaptors were flat, so I had to buy a more expensive multi-country one, but I was glad to have it. We stopped at Monoprix to pick up some things we had forgotten (TP--we had 15 kinds of cheese, but no TP!) and bused home.
The Carte Orange is so handy for both short and long trips, and we relied on the bus as much as possible for additional free sightseeing. There again the CO is great, for every time you change buses you need a new ticket. We had a little problem getting back to Montparnasse. I think I got on the wrong bus, but immediately spotted it and hopped off at St. Germain and caught the Metro. Then again the bus could have been making a jog, but it didn't seem right to me.
That night we just had a simple meal at home. It gave Bette time to catch up on her recorded journal. One of her daughters gave her the recorder since she is not a journal writer. Actually, neither am I except when I am traveling solo. The recorder is great--periodically she stops and records her impressions in a matter of minutes. She even recorded some commentary from the young couple in Montmartre (and earlier me singing "Sur le Pont d'Avignon). I'm not sure all of our evening ramblings, fueled by Scotch or wine, made a lot of sense, but it was fun to do them.
Well, I had printed up something called the Louvre in 3 Hours that someone had raved about here, but it was just like reading Greek to me. I got lost at the first turn, so we fended for ourselves and did pretty well. We particularly enjoyed the Greek and Roman section, especially a lovely statue called the Three Graces and a huge one of a goddess whose unpronounceable name begins with M.
After about 3 hours, we decided on lunch and headed for Café Ruc, again recommended by someone here who stays in that area (on St. Honoré about a block off Palais Royal). It was pricey, but excellent. Just what the doctor ordered. I had duck with a wonderful sauce, and Bette had a huge cheeseburger. Total with a glass of Brouilly each was € 52.
Then we walked through the gardens of the Palais Royal and took the metro 3 stops to Hotel de Ville and the BHV. Oh yes, I had also forgotten the adaptor for my camera recharger, so the whole time we were in the South, I would take one picture of each site and immediately turn off the camera. (Looked at FNAC in Avignon, but no luck.) Unfortunately, none of the US-France adaptors were flat, so I had to buy a more expensive multi-country one, but I was glad to have it. We stopped at Monoprix to pick up some things we had forgotten (TP--we had 15 kinds of cheese, but no TP!) and bused home.
The Carte Orange is so handy for both short and long trips, and we relied on the bus as much as possible for additional free sightseeing. There again the CO is great, for every time you change buses you need a new ticket. We had a little problem getting back to Montparnasse. I think I got on the wrong bus, but immediately spotted it and hopped off at St. Germain and caught the Metro. Then again the bus could have been making a jog, but it didn't seem right to me.
That night we just had a simple meal at home. It gave Bette time to catch up on her recorded journal. One of her daughters gave her the recorder since she is not a journal writer. Actually, neither am I except when I am traveling solo. The recorder is great--periodically she stops and records her impressions in a matter of minutes. She even recorded some commentary from the young couple in Montmartre (and earlier me singing "Sur le Pont d'Avignon). I'm not sure all of our evening ramblings, fueled by Scotch or wine, made a lot of sense, but it was fun to do them.
Jun 3rd, 2003, 07:07 AM
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<<just the fact that I'm finally on the plane (with underwear), if nothing else.>>
Sue: But for a little punctuation you'd've been sitting on the plane in just your skivvies!
You sound like a lot of fun to travel with. I, too, went into BHV Hotel de Ville looking for an adapter part but got sidetracked and never made it downstairs. Ditto, too on the too-much-cheese!
Sue: But for a little punctuation you'd've been sitting on the plane in just your skivvies!
You sound like a lot of fun to travel with. I, too, went into BHV Hotel de Ville looking for an adapter part but got sidetracked and never made it downstairs. Ditto, too on the too-much-cheese!
Jun 3rd, 2003, 07:22 AM
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Wren, follow plan A,take your time, enjoy the scenic route, which is breathtaking, stop at the small villages on your way and just relax.When you go to Avignon, dont forget to visit the Cathedral of Notre Dame , up the hill next to the gardens, inside there is a statue of Jesus made of wood I believe,it has a crown made of thorns, his expression is umbeliavable, so poignant,so full of pain...it really made you shiver just looking at it.Have Fun,
kismet
kismet
