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The Best Little Hell-Hole in the Pacific - Iamq's Kaua`i trip report..

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The Best Little Hell-Hole in the Pacific - Iamq's Kaua`i trip report..

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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 09:42 AM
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The Best Little Hell-Hole in the Pacific - Iamq's Kaua`i trip report..

My partner, Martin (PM) and I have fallen in love with Kaua`i. Despite the rain, the bugs, the chickens, the bad food, the big spiders, the expensive kayak rentals, the traffic in Kapa`a, the so-so hiking and the non-existent nightlife this was our third visit in as many years and we will be back again soon, although not soon enough. PM does not like to do ANYTHING more than once, so the fact that he wants to keep visting says a lot (he likes bugs and chickens) .

My First GTG.

Smack-dab in the middle of the trip was the GTG. RichinPA and wife Georgia, auntiemaria and husband Bob and PM and I met for drinks and pupus at the Happy Talk Lounge. I had never met any real-life fodorites before so I was a bit anxious. Auntie had given me good advice two years ago about the Pono Market chicken, but would she spray me with bug spray? RichinPA seemed nice enough, but how can you trust anyone who goes to Kaua`i for three weeks EVERY year? PM was being a champ and went along with me. He initially thought I was a bit nuts to get sucked into Fodors like I have, but he changed his tune as soon as he started benefiting from the advice offered here! Well, we all had a great time! Talk, talk, talk! Auntie and Bob hail from our part of California and unbeknowst to us, we had met Rich and Georgia at Makua (Tunnels) Beach earlier that day! Thanks to the other fellow hell-hole lovers for the pupus that were delivered to our table! i2 and Kal? Yours ears should have been burning! I will post pictures with the others from the trip as soon as I can get it together.

more...

-Bill
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 10:42 AM
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to you my BillyBoy! I've missed you so much!

Now, you little tease, get on with this trip report...2 paragraphs an hour isn't going to cut it!

Dontcha miss the s?

 
Old Aug 10th, 2005, 01:27 PM
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i2,
Yeah, I miss dem rainbows alright, and everything else!

continuing on...

Hanalei

We stayed in Hanalei. I can't imagine a better place for us to have stayed. Hanalei is beautiful, quiet, peaceful and friendly. We could easily walk to everything from our house. It is short drive to all the beaches that drove us to the north shore in the first place. It was so nice being at Makua beach in 10-15 minutes! Hanalei can be a bit of a zoo during the day with all the day trippers passing through on their way to Ke`e, but apparently most of them never make it the two blocks to the beach, as it was always empty and the nieghborhood was pretty mellow. We quickly fell into a routine that was something like this: Up early, have coffee on the lanai, go for an hour run/walk around the bay (the sand is fine and densely packed so walking and running on it is wonderful)
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 01:54 PM
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Aloha Bill - great trip report so far...I can picture it all, as Kauai truly is our home away from home. Can we assume that you will become a "repeat offender" when it comes to travelling to Kauai???
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 02:02 PM
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oops...not used to the new computer. Anyhow...
,come home and eat a breakfast of freshly picked bananas from our yard and other wonderful fruits, go to the beach and veg, come home and nap, shower for dinner, walk or drive to dinner, home to gaze at the stars, dessert and then bed...and then damn it, do it all over again the next day. What a treat it is to live this way for a few weeks!

Plantation Cottage

We rented this cute place from Na Pali Properties http://www.napaliprop.com/plantation-cott
It was the perfect place for two. It was very old, but had just recently spruced up as it new in the ental pool. Everything was in top shape. It was furnished with all hand-made, custom koa wood furniture. It is a two minute walk down Weke Rd. to the Beach Pavillion. It is on a flag lot behind another house on an acre of land dotted with palm trees and fruit trees. The lanai was HUGE and had a very comfortable day bed on it for lounging on. The view from the lanai was of the nearby Wilcox estate's property and the ocean. It was VERY private and quiet. Hanalei closes up shop early and no one parties late into the night it seems. I will include some pics once they are posted.

Food

We ate breakfast at home and lunch at the beach. We shopped at the Big Save in town and the Foodland in Princveille. We ate out at:

Cafe Hanalei: Very good food, service and amazing sunsets. Expensive.

Postcards: We loved it here! Great,fresh fish and interesting combinations of flavors and ingredients. No meat, so don't expect a rack of lamb. The pineapple upside down cake was incredible.

Hukilau Lanai: Good food, nice setting. The meatloaf was very tasty believe it or not.

Hanalei Gourmet: Okay food, fun place when they have music.

Bubbas: PASS! Yucky.

Tropical Taco: Great fish tacos. You can get them with fried or grilled fish. Good either way.

Sushi Blues: Someone raved about the the poke stack, so we ordered it. VERY ONO!

Hamuras Saimin: Da best.

Scotty BBQ: Well... we did the
Sunday buffet and that was a mistake. Not good that day. We'll go back and give the menu a try next time though.

Polynesia Cafe: Great for fish! Auntie was right, it takes a while, but the people watching opportunities make it entertaining.

Hanalei Wake-Up Cafe: no comment.

Tahiti Nui: Great fish and chips in an infamous bar.

Robin Savage: This is acutally a shop in Hanalei, but they have a bakery that makes pies and chocolates. OMG! The banana cream pie with coconut/mac nut crust is the best pie ever! Their handmade chocolates looked good.

We shopped at the Tuesday farmer's market in Hanalei twice and loved it. The pineapples are so sweet. Makai1, thanks for the heads up on the apple bananas! Tasty. We had a several trees in our yard, so we picked a few too.
Roselani ice cream from the store is very good. We liked the Haupia and Mango flavored ones.

more later...
-Bill


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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 02:09 PM
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iamq:

Hey what's this...only 2 paragraphs to describe all the joys of your trip???

What a delightful GTG that was -- it truly turned out to be a meeting of friends...who hate Kaua`i, hate chickens, hate mosquitos, etc. 8-)

Glad our two geeks got to meet -- your PM and my Bob, prattling on about software and code and Silicon Valley, while you and focused on important issues like beaches, hula, music and (of course) some of our favorite Fodorites!

RichinPA and Georgia -- 3 weeks _every_ year on Kaua`i?? Next year, let's get together at Hanalei Dolphin for your first dinner, 'kay?
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 02:16 PM
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Beaches

The beaches on the north shore are the reason we keep returning, so I have to chuckle when I periodically read here that Kaua`i's beaches are not that great. Oh well...

Hanalei Bay: Where do you start? This is one of the most beautiful places in the world. I loved swimming here. In the summer it is like a huge swimming pool with very gentle waves. We would "bob and schmooze" there in the afternoons sometimes after a day away at another beach. I would go for swims in the morning after my walks.The views are not to be believed.

Makua (Tunnels) Beach: My favorite beach. This trip the water was FLAT and the visibility was very good so the snorkeling was the best. It is the classic Hawaiian beach. It is never very crowded, thanks to bad parking. Heed the "no parking" signs posted all around the highway here. It gets even more narrow and dangerous when people park where they should not. The police were ticketing cars on three days we were there. If the beach right of ways are full, go down to Haena Beach Park and park and then walk to the right about 10 minutes
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 02:43 PM
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Sorry for the multiple posts here, this tap pad is way too sensitive...
Beaches(continued)

Hideaways: A great beach for hanging and snorkeling. A bit of wild walk down and back, especially for PM who has an issue with high places that drop off.

Anini: Well...we never did find that great snorkeling everyone talks about. Bob told us that we needed to go out further, so we have something to do on our next trip.

Moloa`a: Lovely bay with a nice swimming portion all the way around to your right as you face the beach. Deserted and quiet and peaceful! Great place for napping.

Ke`e: We went early at high tide and were able to float (don't walk) over the reef to the other side and float and swim with the group of turtles that hang out there. What a treat! The snokeling was okay, but not great and the place gets crowded as the day wears on.

Kalalau Trail: Ummm....let's see...The day we went the weather was fabulous. No rain so the trail was not too muddy and the views were lovely. The walk down to Hanakapi`ai Beach is gorgeous and not that bad. We started early. Once there we decided to hike to Hanakapi`ai Falls. This turned out to be a mistake. Be forewarned, this hike is a ball-buster! We are in shape and in good health, but we were not prepared for it with regards to food, water and length of time expectations, so the trip back up the Kalalau later to Ke`e was more like the Death March. It took us three hours to go up and back to the falls alone. The hike to the falls is a gorgeous jungle hike mostly in shade that took us through bamboo forests, guava trees (what a delicious scent) and ginger groves. You have to ford the creek five times, do some serious scrambling and be prepared to get lost at least once as the trail becomes unclear in some areas. The falls are spectacular and were a worthy payoff, but had we done our homework better, it would have been a more enjoyable experience. PM slipped, fell, banged his knee up and sprained his wrist and almost slid down the hillside on the way back from the falls. It could have been a disaster. We both were a bit delirious and dehydrated when we stumbled up our car after being away for about 6 hours. I needed a nap! We awarded ourselves the Microbrain Award Bronze Medal for not being prepared.

While I'm on the Microbrain Awards...let's get around to awarding the silver and gold medals.

The silver medal goes to all the reef-walkers at Ke`e and Makua Beaches. STAY OFF THE REEF! It's like dropping a bomb on that one area you are walking on.

The gold medal goes to the man on the Kalalau trail. As you are descending towards the beach there is a very prominent sign strongly and explicitly warning people against swimming at Hankapi`ai Beach. Things like. "You will drown if you go in", and "People have died here." The man was taking a picture of his 8 year old son in front of the sign. This is what I heard him say: "Okay, I'll take your picture in front of this sign and them another one of you in the water at the beach." MICROBRAIN!

one more section later...

-Bill


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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 03:16 PM
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margot,
Yes, I am a convert! I want to make it my home!

auntie,

I'm slogging away trying to get this thing done before I forget it all! One more section! Yes, the GTG was a ball. Yeah, Martin and Bob certainly connected! As did you and I! He's the analytical scientist geeky guy and I'm the flighty, arts fartsy one. Thanks for being such a great guide to our favorite place!

-Bill
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 03:37 PM
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Misc Stuff

Kileaua Lighthouse: A must do! It is such a gorgeous spot with spectacular views to the west and up the coast. I was impressed with the store there. They had some really neat stuff and I ended up buying a bunch of stuff for my classroom.

Limahuli Garden: At the risk of sounding a little wacky, there is an energy that you feel as you walk around this place. It is a simple, yet remarkable spot. The ancient taro gardens are lovely. We chatted with one of the gardeners for a long time and he told us many of the legends associated with this piece of land and Makana Peak. The views of the Pali from here are breathtaking. The book they give you when you pay your entry is a great resource. A very unique and peaceful place.

Koloa Days Parade and Festival: We love this! The parade is such good fun and really charming. The malasadas at the food tent were good, but not as good as we remember them being. Funny how that happens! The hula was great. I just love watching it being performed. We saw a good show at the Princeville Hotel in the bar at the pool one night too. Fun!

Anara Spa: We both had great massages here. PM had lomi lomi and I had something called Serenity Head to Toe. We were jello as we stumbled out hours later.

Okay, that's it!

I will post the url for the pics when I get that done. Mahalo!

Oh, if you are planning a trip to Kaua`i, JUST GO AND DON"T WORRY ABOUT THE WEATHER! It will rain!

-Bill
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 03:39 PM
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Great report! I will be in this hell-hole again in 8 more weeks and it's nice to be warned again of the many dangers! First trip we spent hanging out at Poipu because the weather was not good on the other side of the island. Your report makes me want to explore more this time. Thanks and can't wait for pics!
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 04:21 PM
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Bill-

Although DH and I had been to Kauai a dozen times before our last trip in February/March (the excuse this year was to celebrate my 50th b-day, next year the excuse will be to celebrate DH's 52nd, and so it goes!), it was on this particular trip that we each independently came to the conclusion that Kauai just may be our "retirement" (UGH - hate that word!) home someday. I used to think that I needed to be near a big city, would miss the culture, yadayadayada, but my perspective was really altered this time around...the place is just so intoxicating and I think we could truly be happy there...ah well...anyhow, great trip report, looking forward to your pix! Mahalo!!!
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 04:27 PM
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OHMYGAWD...someone please wake me up when this hell hole of an island's luv fest is over!!!!

Yuck...you people need to get a REAL life.
Kauai, indeed!!!!





























141....
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 04:32 PM
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margot,
PM is already retired (he never uses that word either), so he is ready to go. We will move when I no longer have to work. By that time we may end up living on the beach because that will be all we can afford! I'd still do it!
-Bill
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 04:37 PM
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Kal,

>

We missed you at the GTG! Auntie expects you to look her up this time!
Never made it to the Sand Bar, but I hear that they may open in ...140 days!

-Bill

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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 04:44 PM
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:-?,
Hmmmmmmmm...if I lose 1lb a day I may finally be able to hike up my old barstool!

Welcome back Crabby Appleton!

Oh I got dem missin' Kauai bluuuuus, Momma....
(Sorry...just saw BB King and now I got the blues!)
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 05:39 PM
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Great trip report Bill. I am sorry I missed that opportunity to tag along in your carry on (earlier thread!).

Interesting that the hike to the falls from the Kalalau was as difficult as you described. We opted not to do it because over half of our party ( my husband and those under 20!) were "tired" of hiking. We dcided to just head to the beach because they were snorkeling at Ke'e and we figured they would be ready to move on by the time we got back. Sorry about PM's injuries.

I am kicking myself that we decided to skip the lghthouse due to time constraints. Glad you enjoyed it, What do you teach by the way?

Anyway, fun to read your report, thanks and keep it coming with any new info. Eva
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 06:20 PM
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You're in love with rain, bugs, chickens and bad food?! I love rain, bugs, chicken and bad food too! I gotta check this place out. Countin' the hours!!!!
G'lou
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 07:03 PM
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g'lou,
You are going to absolutely love staying in Hanalei! Calm waters, warm sun, gentle breezes and a cooling rain shower once in a while. Check out Keli`i Kaneali`i at Tahiti Nui on Tuesdays. We stopped by once and listened to him. What a voice! One of the waitresses said he was going to Japan or a few weeks, but if he is singing while you are there, check him out. Stop by Robin Savage's and pick some of the banana cream pie for dessert on the beach some night. YUM. Aloha!

Eeva,

Well, there was room for you going over, but because of all the crap we bought there definitely would not have been room for the return. Bummer! You would've had to have stayed! I teach second grade at a public elementary school in CA.

-Bill
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Old Aug 10th, 2005, 07:10 PM
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Thanks for the Tahiti Nui tip!!! I was thinking the Happy Talk Tuesday night happy hour, but we move in on Tuesday so this sounds better!! Oh if we could only get the real estate market under control.......I don't understand how 1brm condo's could go up $100,000 in 1 year, when we all know that all it does is rain.................
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