Maui no ka oi - a trip report
Jun 22nd, 2004, 04:13 PM
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Maui no ka oi - a trip report
Okay, the pager is off and the family has been sent on a bogus trip to the store. - Time for the first part of my trip report! We traveled from Little Rock to Kahului via three planes June 5. Picked up our convertible at Dollar and arrived at the Grand Wailea after 7 p.m.
(Drawbacks of the convertible: Small trunk. No visibility for passenger in back unless top down.
Advantages: It's just too cool to be driving a convertible in the evening on Maui!)
Immediate impression of the Grand Wailea - elegant and beautiful in every way. The gorgeous young lady at the desk didn't give us very precise directions so we wandered the lobby for a good ten minutes before even finding the right wing to our room. By the time we arrived, my husband collapsed on the bed and my daughter and I went in search of sustenance. The Bistro Molokini was just okay and not a place we returned to...
Day One: Breakfast at the Cafe Kula in our resort very good. Close to our room with pleasant outdoor seating. Yogurt with granola and breakfast burrito enjoyed. Went back to our room to unpack and look at our room with open eyes. Though it was only a terrace room, found the view to be great - oblique views of both the ocean and Haleakala! Enjoyed observing the many moods of this mountain in different lights over the remainder of our stay. Went shopping within the resort. Had to purchase a swimming suit as my luggage did not make it until the afternoon and the pools were calling me. My husband surprised me with a gorgeous ring of Australian opal
inlay and tanzanite. Off to the pools - to die for! Multiple levels of meandering lazy river type pools connected by water slides, a swim-up bar with great lava flows, plenty of lounge chairs (but who wanted to lounge)! Ignored the fact that noon came and went and got a bit of burn despite number 30 lotion. (Went to 45 the next day and I'm not a fair person.) Went into Kihei to purchase mangoes at a roadside stand and purchase a few sundries at the abc store. Dinner at Nick's. We each chose a different fish, all prepared expertly with various sauces - moi, mahi mahi, and opakapaka. The latter won, though all were good. Finished with bananas foster. Nice sunset, good service (although a little TOO diligent for my taste). We laughed about the fact that none of us could get our water levels dropped by even two inches!
Day Two - Got up at 5;15 am to watch the sun rise over Haleakala. (From my terrace) Felt no need to drive up there - been there and done that. Breakfast at the Cafe Kula was warm soft croissants and off the do the beach walk! Went one way past the Kea Lani and the other way almost to Ulua Beach. Could see Lanai, Molokini, Molokai and Kaho'olawe in the distance. Such a pleasant, scenic walk. Sat on the beach, played in the sand. Then horrors, got back to the room and found my husband violently ill with the whole gastroenteritis thing. Went to Safeway in Kihei to pick up Phenergan (guiltily having some good sushi while there) and rushed back to get him comfortable. Spent the afternoon with my daughter frolicking in the pool. Lunch at the poolside Volcano Grill was surprisingly delicious (great burgers). She and I drove to Alexanders's to pick up fish and watch the GORGEOUS sunset from the park across the street (Kamaole?). Fish a little too heavily breaded for us and gave leftovers to our grateful valet back "home". The valets and all the staff at GW were just the nicest. One day we were lost trying to find a shortcut back to our room and Henry in Engineering emerged from the bowels of the resort and guided us back. He talked story the whole way. - Told us the light bill for one month at GW is over $30,000. and they employ over 70 engineers to keep the place running! To bed for all three of us. Husband finally a little better...
Day Three - Snacked for breakfast and headed upcountry. Have been to Haleakala multiple times and decided to take the alternate route up Waipole Road to Polipoli State Park. (First drove through interesting Makawao and stopped in Haliimaile General Store to look around/locate it.) Didn't make it all the way to the hike to the redwoods as the road got a little primitive. Saw a nene bird and enjoyed the cool mystical quality of the whole place. Felt as if we were the only people in the world until we came upon some radio-controlled airplane hobbyists. Saw a beautifully-constructed heiau with a child's stuffed animal placed on top and kept a respectful distance. It gave me a chance to talk to my daughter about culture and practices of others/Hawaiians and the need to preserve and protect them. Wonderful smells of eucalyptus most of the way up. On the way down, stopped at Kula Lodge for lunch - okay, not great. The gardens behind were beautiful! Then into Wailuki to shop a bit. Went to a music store to look at ukes. (My husband and daughter are both musicians). Went to Fabric Mart and purchased beautiful Hawaiian print fabric to make into a duvet cover for my bed. Looked for a lumber place for awhile but not luck. My husband likes to make guitars out of koa wood for his hobby. Then back to the GW and our wonderful pools! Now for the highlight of our trip: Wailea Nights at Mulligan's which I had reserved in advance. Dinner was very good. I started with poke which was a little too adventurous for me. I ate most of it but comeon... It's big chunks of raw fish! My filet was flavorful and perfectly cooked. Our server, Eric, was very good - and fun. He had my daughter laughing and planning to make "bubble and squeak" out of our leftovers next morning. OKAY - Eric Gilliom and Barry Flanagan were just phenomenol. Two hours of virtuoso guitar playing, Hapa hits and Eric's music too, a lovely hula dancer, intimate seating. They signed autographs after the show. It was a bonus that we had a table from which we could also watch the sunset before the show. Cannot say enough about what a wonderful experience Wailea Nights was...
Will take up with the remainder of our Maui trip tomorrow...
(Drawbacks of the convertible: Small trunk. No visibility for passenger in back unless top down.
Advantages: It's just too cool to be driving a convertible in the evening on Maui!)
Immediate impression of the Grand Wailea - elegant and beautiful in every way. The gorgeous young lady at the desk didn't give us very precise directions so we wandered the lobby for a good ten minutes before even finding the right wing to our room. By the time we arrived, my husband collapsed on the bed and my daughter and I went in search of sustenance. The Bistro Molokini was just okay and not a place we returned to...
Day One: Breakfast at the Cafe Kula in our resort very good. Close to our room with pleasant outdoor seating. Yogurt with granola and breakfast burrito enjoyed. Went back to our room to unpack and look at our room with open eyes. Though it was only a terrace room, found the view to be great - oblique views of both the ocean and Haleakala! Enjoyed observing the many moods of this mountain in different lights over the remainder of our stay. Went shopping within the resort. Had to purchase a swimming suit as my luggage did not make it until the afternoon and the pools were calling me. My husband surprised me with a gorgeous ring of Australian opal
inlay and tanzanite. Off to the pools - to die for! Multiple levels of meandering lazy river type pools connected by water slides, a swim-up bar with great lava flows, plenty of lounge chairs (but who wanted to lounge)! Ignored the fact that noon came and went and got a bit of burn despite number 30 lotion. (Went to 45 the next day and I'm not a fair person.) Went into Kihei to purchase mangoes at a roadside stand and purchase a few sundries at the abc store. Dinner at Nick's. We each chose a different fish, all prepared expertly with various sauces - moi, mahi mahi, and opakapaka. The latter won, though all were good. Finished with bananas foster. Nice sunset, good service (although a little TOO diligent for my taste). We laughed about the fact that none of us could get our water levels dropped by even two inches!
Day Two - Got up at 5;15 am to watch the sun rise over Haleakala. (From my terrace) Felt no need to drive up there - been there and done that. Breakfast at the Cafe Kula was warm soft croissants and off the do the beach walk! Went one way past the Kea Lani and the other way almost to Ulua Beach. Could see Lanai, Molokini, Molokai and Kaho'olawe in the distance. Such a pleasant, scenic walk. Sat on the beach, played in the sand. Then horrors, got back to the room and found my husband violently ill with the whole gastroenteritis thing. Went to Safeway in Kihei to pick up Phenergan (guiltily having some good sushi while there) and rushed back to get him comfortable. Spent the afternoon with my daughter frolicking in the pool. Lunch at the poolside Volcano Grill was surprisingly delicious (great burgers). She and I drove to Alexanders's to pick up fish and watch the GORGEOUS sunset from the park across the street (Kamaole?). Fish a little too heavily breaded for us and gave leftovers to our grateful valet back "home". The valets and all the staff at GW were just the nicest. One day we were lost trying to find a shortcut back to our room and Henry in Engineering emerged from the bowels of the resort and guided us back. He talked story the whole way. - Told us the light bill for one month at GW is over $30,000. and they employ over 70 engineers to keep the place running! To bed for all three of us. Husband finally a little better...
Day Three - Snacked for breakfast and headed upcountry. Have been to Haleakala multiple times and decided to take the alternate route up Waipole Road to Polipoli State Park. (First drove through interesting Makawao and stopped in Haliimaile General Store to look around/locate it.) Didn't make it all the way to the hike to the redwoods as the road got a little primitive. Saw a nene bird and enjoyed the cool mystical quality of the whole place. Felt as if we were the only people in the world until we came upon some radio-controlled airplane hobbyists. Saw a beautifully-constructed heiau with a child's stuffed animal placed on top and kept a respectful distance. It gave me a chance to talk to my daughter about culture and practices of others/Hawaiians and the need to preserve and protect them. Wonderful smells of eucalyptus most of the way up. On the way down, stopped at Kula Lodge for lunch - okay, not great. The gardens behind were beautiful! Then into Wailuki to shop a bit. Went to a music store to look at ukes. (My husband and daughter are both musicians). Went to Fabric Mart and purchased beautiful Hawaiian print fabric to make into a duvet cover for my bed. Looked for a lumber place for awhile but not luck. My husband likes to make guitars out of koa wood for his hobby. Then back to the GW and our wonderful pools! Now for the highlight of our trip: Wailea Nights at Mulligan's which I had reserved in advance. Dinner was very good. I started with poke which was a little too adventurous for me. I ate most of it but comeon... It's big chunks of raw fish! My filet was flavorful and perfectly cooked. Our server, Eric, was very good - and fun. He had my daughter laughing and planning to make "bubble and squeak" out of our leftovers next morning. OKAY - Eric Gilliom and Barry Flanagan were just phenomenol. Two hours of virtuoso guitar playing, Hapa hits and Eric's music too, a lovely hula dancer, intimate seating. They signed autographs after the show. It was a bonus that we had a table from which we could also watch the sunset before the show. Cannot say enough about what a wonderful experience Wailea Nights was...
Will take up with the remainder of our Maui trip tomorrow...
Jun 22nd, 2004, 04:27 PM
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Correction: Could not see Molokai from the Beach Walk - just Lanai, Molokini, and Kaho'olawe. Forgive the typos and other mistakes I might have made. - A hungry family has returned from the store!
Jun 23rd, 2004, 06:29 AM
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Didn't even quite make it to the parking lot. My family started protesting at the huge ruts and narrow roadway a few miles from it. But the drive that far is just so beautiful! Almost a spiritual thing...
Jun 23rd, 2004, 03:35 PM
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Day Four - Drove into Lahaina. I cannot help but enjoy the vibe there, at least for a few hours - and I must visit my banyan tree! We had surprisingly good loco moco at Moose's and followed it up with Lappert's Kona coffee ice cream. Window shopped and stopped in the old faves like The Gecko Store. My daughter was disappointed that I would not parasail and so was not in the mood to commune with the banyan tree as much as I would have liked, plus it was so HOT. Lahaina is the land of the cruel sun! Then into Kihei to view the new Harry Potter at the Kukui Mall. We had missed the big preview due to travel preparations. First we had very good pizza at Pizza Express. Ingredients fresh and plentiful, prices reasonable, fast and friendly service! After the movie returned to our resort to mix a drink in our room and carry it down to the beach to watch the sunset. Next I sent my family to the pool while I soaked in the luxurious bath and listened to my new Hapa instrumental CD. When they returned we ordered room service. - Prompt and good, especially the chicken tenders and spring rolls. You can tell that on this day we ate simply. Despite all of my gustatory plans, I find that I don't have the stomach or the pocketbook for daily gourmet dining.
Day Five - Breakfast at the Kihei Cafe. Loco moco again. (I'm addicted!) A delightful local Hawaiian woman named Bunny walked around the outdoor tables visiting and talking story. Spent quite a bit of time making us feel welcome on her home island. Bunny is yet another reason I love Maui. Next we drove to the Iao Valley. Again, the misty, cooler, eucalyptus drive into a magical, spiritual place. I love the Iao Valley! Walked along the approved trails and waded in the cold water. Then into Kahului for more wood and ukulele shopping. My husband loved Mele Ukulele and purchased a baritone uke. Stopped at Maui Taco in Kihei on the way back to our resort. (Very good and very busy.) More pool action. (What can I say? - It's what GW is all about!) Okay, now for the most disappointing thing about our trip - Sarento's. All three of our dishes were just ridiculously oversalted. I promise we're not on a salt restricted diet and like potato chips as much as the next person. My husband's pasta was way short of al dente. It was almost unchewable. The flies were terrible, but we had been warned about that. The setting of the restaurant and the service were very good, but we left $150. plus poorer and hungry. This was such a disappointment as I had researched so much for this "splurge" night and reserved it well in advance. All I can think of is that the chef is a heavy smoker or there was a guest chef that night. Truthfully, we were too disappointed to even complain which I know was a mistake...
Day Six - This was departure day for Kauai. They were preparing for a King Kamehameha celebration at GW as we left, and I was sorry to miss that. Celebrity spotting as we were leaving - Wilford Brimley. (No offense, Wil, but why do I never see John Travolta or Nic Cage?) Drove into Kihei to do laundry while my family returned to Mele Ukulele to get my daughter a uke. It was kind of fun hanging out with the local folks as we all washed and dried together. Then it was off to the airport. It seems like it took all day to get to our resort in Kauai. Rented another convertible and drove to the Hyatt. When we arrived, we were told that they had mistakenly given away our room with two beds and that we would have to take a King bed. They said they would correct the situation tomorrow and barely glanced at my "Hyatt gold card" I had obtained because it "guarantees an upgrade IF available". Our room was on the ground floor near the pools which placated us a little. Went to the Seaview Terrace which has a lovely setting but terrible pupus and somewhat cheesy entertainment. (I hate to say this but trip reports have to be honest or they're of no value.) It didn't keep us from returning to try it again, so more later on that. To bed tired. - Interisland travel is not effortless...
Tomorrow, I'll report on Kauai. There were some definite contrasts between the two resorts and the two islands that I'd like to share/obtain feedback on.
Day Five - Breakfast at the Kihei Cafe. Loco moco again. (I'm addicted!) A delightful local Hawaiian woman named Bunny walked around the outdoor tables visiting and talking story. Spent quite a bit of time making us feel welcome on her home island. Bunny is yet another reason I love Maui. Next we drove to the Iao Valley. Again, the misty, cooler, eucalyptus drive into a magical, spiritual place. I love the Iao Valley! Walked along the approved trails and waded in the cold water. Then into Kahului for more wood and ukulele shopping. My husband loved Mele Ukulele and purchased a baritone uke. Stopped at Maui Taco in Kihei on the way back to our resort. (Very good and very busy.) More pool action. (What can I say? - It's what GW is all about!) Okay, now for the most disappointing thing about our trip - Sarento's. All three of our dishes were just ridiculously oversalted. I promise we're not on a salt restricted diet and like potato chips as much as the next person. My husband's pasta was way short of al dente. It was almost unchewable. The flies were terrible, but we had been warned about that. The setting of the restaurant and the service were very good, but we left $150. plus poorer and hungry. This was such a disappointment as I had researched so much for this "splurge" night and reserved it well in advance. All I can think of is that the chef is a heavy smoker or there was a guest chef that night. Truthfully, we were too disappointed to even complain which I know was a mistake...
Day Six - This was departure day for Kauai. They were preparing for a King Kamehameha celebration at GW as we left, and I was sorry to miss that. Celebrity spotting as we were leaving - Wilford Brimley. (No offense, Wil, but why do I never see John Travolta or Nic Cage?) Drove into Kihei to do laundry while my family returned to Mele Ukulele to get my daughter a uke. It was kind of fun hanging out with the local folks as we all washed and dried together. Then it was off to the airport. It seems like it took all day to get to our resort in Kauai. Rented another convertible and drove to the Hyatt. When we arrived, we were told that they had mistakenly given away our room with two beds and that we would have to take a King bed. They said they would correct the situation tomorrow and barely glanced at my "Hyatt gold card" I had obtained because it "guarantees an upgrade IF available". Our room was on the ground floor near the pools which placated us a little. Went to the Seaview Terrace which has a lovely setting but terrible pupus and somewhat cheesy entertainment. (I hate to say this but trip reports have to be honest or they're of no value.) It didn't keep us from returning to try it again, so more later on that. To bed tired. - Interisland travel is not effortless...
Tomorrow, I'll report on Kauai. There were some definite contrasts between the two resorts and the two islands that I'd like to share/obtain feedback on.
Jun 23rd, 2004, 04:12 PM
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you crazy girl!....sorry couldn't help myself! great report. I too when staying at grand hotels love doing laundry with the locals! I'll miss it now that I'm a condo kinda gal with in house laundry....damn I love those islands! Can't believe I've never had a loco moco after spending the cost of a vacation house returning year after year. Narrow down the very best on Kauai and Maui for me for my next trip. Mahalo to you. gyppie
Jun 23rd, 2004, 04:50 PM
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Dearest Gyp -
I must be crazy! I, too, spend every red cent I have and don't have trying to get back to Hawaii. I always have all these grand plans to try way more things than I have time for and then return home vowing to "do it next time!" That's okay, 'cause by hook or crook, we'll get back there, won't we gal! I didn't get to go tubing or try Puka Dogs in Kauai so I have to go back!
I must be crazy! I, too, spend every red cent I have and don't have trying to get back to Hawaii. I always have all these grand plans to try way more things than I have time for and then return home vowing to "do it next time!" That's okay, 'cause by hook or crook, we'll get back there, won't we gal! I didn't get to go tubing or try Puka Dogs in Kauai so I have to go back!
Jun 23rd, 2004, 08:45 PM
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Was reading over my report and realized it doesn't sound like we did that much! On a previous trip we did the helicopter thing, sailed with Trilogy to Lanai, explored West Maui including driving "over the top", and explored Haleakala Crater. So this time I was under strict orders to RELAX and not OVERPLAN! Our main goal was to enjoy South Maui, an area we had never visited. One of the places we saw I failed to describe above. We drove south of all the swanky resorts to the place where the road becomes narrow and unpaved with lava fields on either side. The hike to the cinder cone that produces much of this lava is described in Maui Revealed. We stopped the car and walked over to examine the huge chunks of lava, taller than us - jagged and sharp, Standing there looking at that amazing sight made us feel we were in an alien landscape. People talk about how "commercialized" Maui has become. There are still so many places there to visit that give you the feeling you are the only person on the face of the Earth - ancient, unspoiled areas. No ka oi...
I will start a new thread tomorrow to continue my tale of Kauai.
I will start a new thread tomorrow to continue my tale of Kauai.
Jun 24th, 2004, 08:24 PM
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Aloha crazy4 & g'lou,
Oooohhhhhh, why oh why is this Hawaii thing in our blood to the extent that we can't go a day w/o planning some future thing or reviewing a rainbow or turtle or whale sighting???
Like I said in my last TR, "never again less than 3 weeks, hopefully 3 months..."
Aloha for now
Oooohhhhhh, why oh why is this Hawaii thing in our blood to the extent that we can't go a day w/o planning some future thing or reviewing a rainbow or turtle or whale sighting???
Like I said in my last TR, "never again less than 3 weeks, hopefully 3 months..."
Aloha for now
Aug 31st, 2004, 06:17 PM
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I have a question about Wailea nights at Mulligan's... what is it, a band playing? and does Mulligan's have this every night or just specific nights?
dh and I were planning on going to Mulligans, , bu twant to know if we'll need reservations.?
do they serve lunch also??
thanks~ Laura~ leaving for Hawaii in 11 hours!
dh and I were planning on going to Mulligans, , bu twant to know if we'll need reservations.?
do they serve lunch also??
thanks~ Laura~ leaving for Hawaii in 11 hours!
Sep 1st, 2004, 05:19 AM
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If you are familiar with the music of Hapa you will be familiar with Barry Flanagin. He and Eric Gilliom perform beautiful contemporary Hawaiian music in an intimate setting. At times they are accompanied by a Hula dancer. Dinner is served with the show. When we went it was Tuesday nights only and reservations were required. Google Mulligan's for more information.
post.
