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Old Dec 27th, 2019, 05:29 PM
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yk's family trip to Washington DC, Xmas week 2019

Hi all, our family of 3 (our son is 7) is currently spending our Xmas vacation in DC. I'll try to post our TR while we are still here, taking advantage of free evenings after our son goes to bed.

Husband and I last visited D.C. 15 years ago. It was a very different trip as we are both art museum fans. Our 2005 TR report is here
https://www.fodors.com/community/uni...-7-3-a-541368/

Why DC?
We decided rather late, around start of December. I wanted some place not too far (we live in Boston) but warmer weather, and affordable. Given the low hotel rates in DC during this time, and most museums are free, it was an easy decision to make.

Day 0
We flew out of Boston early evening of Christmas Day, flew into DCA. DCA is super convenient for getting into the city. Our hotel is in foggy bottom, direct blue line from DCA. It took us under an hour from deplaning to get to oh right hotel by Metro.

Day 1
Dec 26, we went to the Air & Space museum. Currently half the museum is under construction/renovation. I picked today to go for this particular reason, as I know we usually don't sleep well on our first night so I want something that won't take up an entire day. We arrived around 11am. Security line was quite long. Inside was fairly crowded but not unbearable. Our son finds the Wright Flyer the most interesting. The temporary cafe inside the museum is really mediocre; I believe once the renovation is done they will have a much better cafe. By 2pm all of us were quite wiped out.

It was a nice day in low 50s, which gave us opportunities to take some pics in the Mall of the US Capitol and the Washington monument. We also walked past the Hirshorn sculpture garden and saw Kusama's pumpkin. Husband and son got back to the hotel around 3pm and son immediately fell asleep. I spent a good amount at the WFs at foggy bottom to buy foods. I made a simple dinner in our room.

Day 2
Dec 27 - We slept marginally better; still had a late start, getting to Museum of Natural History again st 11am. Security lines were long. I really like the Fossils Hall; not sure when it was renovated but it's s much updated display/experience. We had lunch at the Oceans cafe (1st floor) which is very nice and with excellent food options. Both husband and I got grain bowls. upstairs Hope diamond and gems galleries were very crowded. Other upstairs galleries are quite dated. We didn't have time nor energy to explore the ground floor (birds of D.C.) When we left at 3pm, the security line to get in is longer than 11am.

After 4 hours there, we took the circulator bus from outside the museum westbound. It's almost like a sightseeing bus, passing by Washington monument, Jefferson memorial, MLK Jr and FDR emorials, Lincoln memorial etc. we got off at the Vietnam memorial. Afterwards we went inside the National Academy of Sciences for a quick visit, and the Albert Einstein memorial outside.

We decided to walk back to Foggy Bottom from there, which didn't take long st all. Temperature was in the 50s so it was quite a pleasant walk. We decided to have an early dinner at Circa (directly across the street from Fogy Bottom metro station) to take advantage of their happy hour menu. We ordered a magherita flatbread for our son. Husband and I shared tuna poke nachos, fried calamari, and 4-cheese macaroni( this is Plan b for our son in case he didn't like the flatbread). We had too much food and took half of the flatbread home.

Last edited by yk; Dec 27th, 2019 at 05:52 PM.
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Old Dec 27th, 2019, 05:32 PM
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Kusama pumpkin at Hirshorn

Vietnam Memorial by Maya Lin

Ceiling inside National Academy of Sciences
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 02:46 AM
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Thanks for posting this yk. It reminds me that I never posted a TR from my cross US tour in September, and i suspect that now I never will, not least because I have already forgotten so much. You are not the only one who finds museums tiring, though in my defence I had had a transatlantic flight and a 2 hour wait to get through immigration the day before. OTOH I had only myself to worry about, not a small child as well.

The museums I targeted were the Museum of American history [no security line at all] and the museum of African American history, which was busier but still had no security line when i was there. Though it was interesting, the best exhibit on that subject was at the Museum of American History where they have a reconstruction of a lunch counter protest with a great presenter/leader and audience participation. And I was also interested by a conversation between two young women who were about to get into the lift I had just entered, the one [black] saying to the other [white] "it's all our history. Why does our history have to be separate?" at which point she turned, walked away from the lift and made for the exit.

If it's any consolation the food there wasn't stellar either, though perhaps that was because I made the wrong choices. The best was in the cafe in the basement of Congress which was also the best tour I did.
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 04:09 AM
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I am glad you are having such a good trip, yk. I know you have more museums and a trip to the zoo planned.
I am a big fan of the circulator buses in DC especially the one that goes along the mall and around the Tidal Basin. If you want to explore some of Georgetown the circulator bus there probably goes very near your Foggy Bottom hotel.
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 06:45 AM
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On your travels for Monday you can include a short visit to the USFS HQ including the Forest Service Information Center. It is the big brick building at the corner of 14th & Independence. You can see Smokey Bear at his desk. Next door to the USFS is the Holocaust Museum. The USFS is only open weekdays 8-4. I'm not sure about Tuesday - for sure closed on Wednesday.
At the north end of the Ellipse you can see the "zero milestone" which was a bad idea from the start. There is a good view of the south side of White House from there.
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 11:25 AM
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yk, I'm enjoying your report and your photos. We love visiting DC, and your report may motivate us to return soon. . .maybe spring. I admire your prompt posting. I'm still attempting to post our TR from France in the fall.
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 02:37 PM
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I need to visit in the winter sometime. I've only been in gawd awful hot muggy summer trips - this sounds like a LOT more fun
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 02:37 PM
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Welcome to DC! Nice that the weather has been so good for you. Today was a stunner for sure. Food in many of the DC museums is not very good with a few exceptions.

Annhig -- "And I was also interested by a conversation between two young women who were about to get into the lift I had just entered, the one [black] saying to the other [white] "it's all our history. Why does our history have to be separate?" at which point she turned, walked away from the lift and made for the exit."
Intersting question. Was this a young person asking? I know that many blacks believe that the history of blacks has never had a focus and thus the focus on "black hisotry/musuem" etc.
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 03:35 PM
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Hope you're continuing to enjoy your visit.

You're in my neighborhood! We're big fans of Circa FB. My favorite is the mushroom and arugula flat bread. Founding Farmers on 20th (?) and Penn Ave is a good family choice too. They do breakfast as well as lunch & dinner.

If you don't already know it, a zoo tip by metro is to take the Red Line to the Cleveland Park station, turn left on exiting and walk downhill (10ish min) to the zoo on Conn Ave. When leaving the zoo onto Conn. Ave, turn left again and continue downhill to the Woodley Park metro station (another 10 ish min). As you've already discovered, FB is on the blue line. Time wise it's about the same to walk from FB to the red line at Dupont Circle or take the blue line at FB to Metro Center and change to the red line.

There's a very nice farmer's market at Dupont Circle on Sunday morning. Some fun street food in addition to seasonal offerings. Also, there are lots restaurants, good coffee and a good indie bookstore (Kramer Books) in the immediate vicinity.

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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 06:33 PM
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Day 3
Nature day, Dec 28

All 3 of us finally had a good night's sleep so we were up and ready earlier than usual. Fodorite TDudette has told me about the model train inside the US Botanic Garden, knowing that our son (and my husband too) are big fans of model train. We got there a little after 10 and there was a line to get in, which was slow moving. Once we entered the building, we found out the line continues to snake...We were in line for 40 minutes before we got inside the train exhibit. (There is a separate, no-waiting entrance for those who wished to skip the trains.) I was more wowed by the miniature buildings/monuments as part of the "Seasons Greetings" special exhibit. The buildings are all made from different plant materials and very detailed. We spent another hour inside the conservatory as they have a scavenger hunt for kids.

by the time we left it was sunny and warm, and...lunchtime! We found a waffle food truck on the mall and botH DH and I had lamb gyro waffle. I packed lunch for m-yk.

Weather was perfect for the zoo. Despite us feeling tired already, we marched on. I did read beforehand the tip about getting off st Cleveland Park. It was an easy walk to the zoo. Got some ice cream bars from 7-eleven across the street before we went in, just before 2pm.

There were plenty of people but tolerable. There was a line to get in to see the giant pandas. My son almost didn't want to go (we have seen giant pandas in Hong Kong) but I insisted. They have indoor feeding for the giant pandas at 2, so when we finally got in, both Tian Tian and Mei Xiang are parked in front of the glass chomping on bamboo leaves. We got such good views of them that my son said it was worth the wait. As indoor exhibits close at 4pm, we hurried on but everywhere was getting more crowded. Obviously we weren't the only ones taking advantage of the weather (high 50s) to be there. By 4:30pm we were wiped out and parked ourselves on s bench. Son wanted to leave but I insisted we wait until sunset so we can see the zoolights (illumination at the zoo, a special event during the winter holidays.) We had some refreshments and got back on our feet at the bottom of the zoo and slowly walked back up the hill just when the sun was setting. The lights are quite cool and fun, though the crowd got thicker and thicker. It got pretty dark by the time we were half-way up. We finally returned to the entrance around 5:45pm. There was a long line to get in and long line of traffic heading towards parking lot as well. Our son again declared it was worth staying later to see the zoo lights after dark.

we took the metro back to foggy bottom. Husband and son head back to hotel first, while I once again picked up easy-to-cook foods at WF. I don't shop st WF back home, but I assume the FB WF is an anomaly? It is severely understaffed in checkout areas. It was bad on Thursday (I blamed it on short-staffed after Xmas?) but even worse tonight as I spent 20 minutes waiting in line to check out. It took me less time to shop for the items than to pay for them. smh
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 06:36 PM
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At Botanic garden

Botanic garden

Miniature Biltmore Estate at Botanic garden

Tian Tian 🐼

Zoolights
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 10:22 PM
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Enjoying your trip report immensely. Most especially the Botanic Garden. The miniature of the Biltmore was phenomenal.

Ann, I think you should still write a report. It might be a different report than what you would have written the day after. But I think your favorite haunts will still come to mind.
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Old Dec 29th, 2019, 02:36 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement, 5alive. "I will take it under advisement".

>

It was by way of being a rhetorical question by the young black girl to her companion. I got the impression, possibly wrong, that like me they had just arrived, and she was rejecting the segregation of black history from the whole history of the US. From my perspective, though I found much in the African American Museum to interest me, the most thought provoking "exhibit" on that issue was the lunch counter protest reconstruction in the Museum of American History.

lovely photos yk - I really liked the Botanical gardens [inside and out] as well though I didn't get to see the train or the models which are great. and whilst I feel I'm a bit old for zoos the night-time photos are terrific. Glad that m_yk was suitably impressed.
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Old Dec 29th, 2019, 06:58 AM
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Wonderful TR and detail, yk. Glad the weather has been so nice, but sorry about the lines.

Your 2005 TR was super as well. Fwiw, Obelisk resto still exists!

annhig, please do one also! 😁
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Old Dec 29th, 2019, 07:33 AM
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Wonderful photos! This year we were invited to Botanic Garden for a special evening for volunteers. It was fabulous with no lines or crowds. The exhibits are indeed amazing given they are constructed from plant material. Love your photos of Zoolights. Too bad about the rainy weather today, but DC does not lack for indoor activities.

My experience with the WFs I go to is that since Bezos bought the chain, it's gone downhill. We don't generally have lines for checkout, but shelves are not fully stocked, staff clog up the aisles doing the shopping for online orders and the stores generally are not as nice as they used to be.
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Old Dec 29th, 2019, 10:24 AM
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Are you still in DC? You all might enjoy the Postal Museum. We took a short tour and would really like to visit again for more time.
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Old Dec 29th, 2019, 06:13 PM
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Day 4 Dec 28
Art Day


Husband was flying home this afternoon but he joined us for morning activities. Those of you who've known me for a long time would remember thst I have Type A personality when it comes to trip planning; luckily husband happily goes along and I have also loosened up a bit since our child came along cuz kids always throw curve balls into my plans!

so the first mistake I made this morning was not realizing the National Gallery of art doesn't open until 11am on Sundays. I thought it was 10. I didn't find out until we had got onto the metro heading there for 10am opening. Well, I guess sometimes this is for the best because plan b worked out great.

we stopped at the Smithsonian Castle (now visitors center) because husband remembers there was some train display. Info desk ppl said it was in the Arts and Industries building but that has been closed for renovations for over a decade. On the upside, we toured the exhibit inside the castle and learned the history of James Smithson and the founding of Smithsonian, which is very interesting (I knew nothing about it before). Also at the gift shop I found a perfect Xmas ornament as our souvenir.


Smithsonian castle ornament


[I stopped buying souvenirs years ago but in recent years when we travel with our son we allow ourselves to bring home one Xmas ornament per trip to remind ourselves of our visit.]

Still having some time before 11 we went to Freer gallery next door to see the Peacock room. Husband and I have gone in 2005 but it certainly is worth a revisit. Son thought there would be more literal peacocks in the room.

Finalky we headed to National Gallery of Art. Did I mention today is a cold rainy day, a 180 change from yesterday? I only packed 2 travel umbrellas so I was quite soaked when i got there as I let husband and son have the umbrellas. We got in the 7th street entrance where there is no line, and the nicest cloakroom attendant. Looked for the Vermeers and Rembrandts and then it was time for husband to leave. Son and I made it to East building where we ate lunch at the Cascade cafe. Food was good with lots of healthy options. We spent some time in the East building, happy to find ourselves in the Rothko room alone for several minutes.

Son is not a fan of art museum ("booooring") but perked up when we got him the kids audio guide. Audio guides are only available in the west building. Honestly I thought I would be lucky if son let me stay in the museum for one hour (that's how long he "tolerated" the National Gallery in London) but with the audioguide, we ended up spending 4 hours total.

My original plan of a short NGA visit, then lunch at Chinatown, then National Portrait Gallery went straight out the window. But the upside was I got to spend s lot more time at NGA and it was actually quite fun to listen to the kids audioguide along with him.

perhaos D.C. Residents can enlighten me on 2 things:
1. NGA is free but I didn't expect audioguide is free as well. I'm used to free museums in London but they charge extra for special exhibitions and for audioguides. So I'm surprised they don't do the same at NGA. Also London museums have suggested donation boxes everywhere - at every entrance and any high traffic area. I saw none at NGA. Why not take up that idea? I would have happily donated some money (I suppose having lunch there is a small donation).

2. When I purchased the ornament at smithsonian visitors center, I was told there is no tax because they are a nonprofit. I'm pretty sure I have bought things from many non profit places before but never come across "no tax".

Anyway, by around 3pm we called it a day and headed back, stopping at WF at Foggy Bottom for things for dinner. Luckily no line today. We watched a movie at our room and had simple dinner afterwards.

Last edited by yk; Dec 29th, 2019 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Dec 30th, 2019, 04:43 AM
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You can definitely make on line one-time donations to the Smithsonian. I do this every once in a while since we go to the museums quite often now that our son lives in the DC area.
We also wandered into the castle during a visit last year and also found it very interesting. The garden behind the castle is also lovely. When we were there in late March I enjoyed the cherry blossoms there as much as those around the Tidal Basin.

I hope the rest of your DC stay goes well.
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Old Dec 30th, 2019, 05:41 PM
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Day 5
Dec 30, American History


Son and I spent the rainy morning at the National Museum of American History. Security line was much shorter than Air & Space and Natureal History. Son finds the first floor exhibits most interesting (esp the transportation section). Upstairs he likes the "Behind these walls" above the 5 families who lived in one house in Ipswich over the centuries, and also the Gunboat Philadelphia. We ate lunch at the basement cafe which has a nice selection of foods with plenty of healthy options. Prices seem to be higher than other museums (e.g. >$6 for a slice of cake, >$5 for a cupcake or coffee, $3.50 for a biegelow teabag; we passed on all those). We were in the museum for about 4 hours,

By then the sun has come out and it turned into a beautiful warm December day. I had on definitive plan so we walked up to Washington monument for a view. All tickets were gone for the day so we just have to wait until next time when we return. Son then declared he wanted to visit "all the memorials" so we started walking. First was WWII memorial and we stopped at the NPS info desk nearby, where we picked up a junior ranger activity packet. Then we went to MLK Jr memorial, followed by Korean War veteran memorial (we skipped FDR as our feet were getting more tired as the time went on). The junior ranger packet actually made us stop and really look at the memorials and learn/think about them. Finally we came across a refreshment kiosk where we had some much-deserved ice cream. Without planning this, we somehow made it to Lincoln memorial right at sunset. The golden light shining on Washington monument was breathtaking. Inside Lincoln memorial it was super crowded and noisy, which really takes the solemn atmosphere away. Son managed to complete enough activities in the packet to earn a junior rangers badge.

Somehow we found more energy within us and walked all the way back to our hotel, arriving at 6pm after 3 hours of walking around the memorials (plus 4 hrs at the museum this morning.) couldn't ask for a better day. Finished up all the foods in our kitchenette fridge for dinner tonight as we leave tomorrow.

Some of the memorials are new to me as well, and I found each of them inspiring and moving in its very own way. I can't believe we have been here for 5 full days already and we barely scratched the surface of what DC has to offer. Hopefully we will be back before long.

Last edited by yk; Dec 30th, 2019 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Dec 30th, 2019, 05:45 PM
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Julia Child's kitchen inside National museum of American History

WWII memorial

MLK Jr. memorial

Korean War veterans memorial

Catching sunset from Lincoln Memorial

Lincoln Memorial
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