Yellowstone/Teton Trip Report 8/28-9/7
Sep 15th, 2007, 09:48 AM
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Yellowstone/Teton Trip Report 8/28-9/7
Fantastic trip. Great weather. No fires or smoke to speak of (which was a concern due to the hot, dry summer). Our last trip out there was 9 years ago and we wanted to do some things we hadn't done before, although it was hard to drive by places (like Norris, Firehole River, Paint Pots, etc.) that we had enjoyed on our two previews visits to Yellowstone. We stayed inside the parks for the first time. First 6 nights at Canyon Village (Cascade Lodge) and next 4 at Signal Mountain Lodge (country room). Locations were excellent and we were happy with the accommodations (really only slept and ate there).
We flew into and out of Jackson and drove over 1500 miles in the area. We arrived around 5PM. It took us about 2 hours to get to the Grant Village area (stopping for animal sightings 3 times) and about another hour and a half to get to Canyon.
We saw our first (and only) bear with cubs between Moran Junction and Oxbow Bend Turnout on the Rockefeller Highway soon after leaving the airport. Just a short way further we saw a bull moose (first time ever) and there were elk right past Grant Village turnoff. We were so excited -- great start!
Wednesday we got up to head to the Beartooth Highway (one of the reasons we went at this time of year -- had never seen it before). There was a mother moose and baby at the Cascade Picnic area next to the road (about 6:50am). Saw our first wolf, ever again, (at a distance, but visible with a scope or good binoculars) at Antelope Valley and a coyote right next to the road in the Lamar Valley. Had breakfast at Silver Gate (Log Cabin cafe) and continued on to Beartooth. Great day, beautiful views. We stopped at the Clay Butte Fire Tower and different viewpoints along the way. We went as far as Vista Point (left there about 1:30) and turned around. You notice different things on the way back, but if I could only go one way I would probably pick the route toward Red Lodge. We continued on down the Chief Joseph Highway which was another beautiful road, but wouldn't make another trip out of the way to see it. I actually like the road from Cody to Fishing Bridge better (just my opinion). We saw buffalo (of course), a coyote and otters in the Fishing Bridge area.
We flew into and out of Jackson and drove over 1500 miles in the area. We arrived around 5PM. It took us about 2 hours to get to the Grant Village area (stopping for animal sightings 3 times) and about another hour and a half to get to Canyon.
We saw our first (and only) bear with cubs between Moran Junction and Oxbow Bend Turnout on the Rockefeller Highway soon after leaving the airport. Just a short way further we saw a bull moose (first time ever) and there were elk right past Grant Village turnoff. We were so excited -- great start!
Wednesday we got up to head to the Beartooth Highway (one of the reasons we went at this time of year -- had never seen it before). There was a mother moose and baby at the Cascade Picnic area next to the road (about 6:50am). Saw our first wolf, ever again, (at a distance, but visible with a scope or good binoculars) at Antelope Valley and a coyote right next to the road in the Lamar Valley. Had breakfast at Silver Gate (Log Cabin cafe) and continued on to Beartooth. Great day, beautiful views. We stopped at the Clay Butte Fire Tower and different viewpoints along the way. We went as far as Vista Point (left there about 1:30) and turned around. You notice different things on the way back, but if I could only go one way I would probably pick the route toward Red Lodge. We continued on down the Chief Joseph Highway which was another beautiful road, but wouldn't make another trip out of the way to see it. I actually like the road from Cody to Fishing Bridge better (just my opinion). We saw buffalo (of course), a coyote and otters in the Fishing Bridge area.
Sep 15th, 2007, 10:06 AM
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Thursday.
Woke up at dawn and did our daily check of the Cascade Picnic area to see if the moose was there again. Never did see her again, but it was so close to Canyon that we had to check. Drove to Fishing Bridge to see if there was anything going on there -- nothing in sight. On the way back in Hayden Valley we saw a red fox next to the road and stopped to watch it for a while. Most of our luck in seeing animals was while on the road -- not looking for them in certain areas (except for the wolves -- usually stopped when people were actually looking through their scopes). There were some in Hayden Valley area, but they were sleeping at a distance. We watched for a while, then went on to Canyon (which we cannot pass up, even though there three times before). We stopped and walked down all the sights (except for Uncle Tom's trail -- have done it before and it was getting late--and we were tired and hungry by that time). We walked along parts of the rim trails and saw osprey in the Canyon.
Friday
We went on a horseback trail ride in the Canyon area. Neither of us have really ever been horseback riding before and this is definitely tailored for people like us. We enjoyed it -- see things from a different view. Btw you aren't allowed to take cameras, water, etc. with you (in case you fall). We drove up Mt. Washburn, then continued towards Roosevelt. Every time we went by the Dunraven Pass area there was a crowd of people waiting for a bear to "come over the mountain". We stopped each time to ask if they had seen anything. We never spoke to anyone who had, but this is where they were supposed to be so they were waiting. We stopped at Calcite Springs overlook, saw some pronghorn near Roosevelt, buffalo at Soda Butte and walked to Trout Lake. After that we continued a ways up the road and saw what at first we thought were two wolves past Icebox Canyon near the road, but they turned out to be coyotes. We turned around, took the road toward Mammoth. We stopped at the Petrified Tree and Undine Falls. Saw a few elk at Mammoth (guess it was too early for the numerous elk that were there on our last visits). It started to rain (greatly needed) and getting dark, so we headed back to our room.
Woke up at dawn and did our daily check of the Cascade Picnic area to see if the moose was there again. Never did see her again, but it was so close to Canyon that we had to check. Drove to Fishing Bridge to see if there was anything going on there -- nothing in sight. On the way back in Hayden Valley we saw a red fox next to the road and stopped to watch it for a while. Most of our luck in seeing animals was while on the road -- not looking for them in certain areas (except for the wolves -- usually stopped when people were actually looking through their scopes). There were some in Hayden Valley area, but they were sleeping at a distance. We watched for a while, then went on to Canyon (which we cannot pass up, even though there three times before). We stopped and walked down all the sights (except for Uncle Tom's trail -- have done it before and it was getting late--and we were tired and hungry by that time). We walked along parts of the rim trails and saw osprey in the Canyon.
Friday
We went on a horseback trail ride in the Canyon area. Neither of us have really ever been horseback riding before and this is definitely tailored for people like us. We enjoyed it -- see things from a different view. Btw you aren't allowed to take cameras, water, etc. with you (in case you fall). We drove up Mt. Washburn, then continued towards Roosevelt. Every time we went by the Dunraven Pass area there was a crowd of people waiting for a bear to "come over the mountain". We stopped each time to ask if they had seen anything. We never spoke to anyone who had, but this is where they were supposed to be so they were waiting. We stopped at Calcite Springs overlook, saw some pronghorn near Roosevelt, buffalo at Soda Butte and walked to Trout Lake. After that we continued a ways up the road and saw what at first we thought were two wolves past Icebox Canyon near the road, but they turned out to be coyotes. We turned around, took the road toward Mammoth. We stopped at the Petrified Tree and Undine Falls. Saw a few elk at Mammoth (guess it was too early for the numerous elk that were there on our last visits). It started to rain (greatly needed) and getting dark, so we headed back to our room.
Sep 15th, 2007, 10:17 AM
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Will try to make this shorter.
Saturday
Fairy Falls Hike (loved it). Stopped on the way to take pictures of Grand Prismatic from the hill. Continued on the Imperial Geyser and climbed the smaller hill on the right. You can see the Midway Basin from there also. Stopped at Old Faithful on the way back to eat and watch her go off. Took the road back toward Canyon past the West Thumb area. Turned out to be one of the best choices we made. At Hayden Valley there were people looking through their scopes. It turned out that the wolves were down by the river. Some people had ventured down there, on the other side of the river, which scared the wolves back up the hill. As you can imagine, there were many very angry people yelling at them to get out of there. During this time an elk and baby appeared and the wolves ran down again and the elk retreated to the river. The ranger came and cited the people for getting too close to wildlife (I heard this on another forum). We spent the rest of the evening until it was dark watching the wolves and elk. We just ate peanut butter sandwiches in our room that night.
Sunday
After checking out the Hayden Valley -- wolves still there, but at a distance, elk gone -- went back up the road to do the Mt. Washburn hike (Crittenden Rd side). Saw a marmot and a couple of mountain sheep. Back to Hayden Valley to watch the wolves play (through scopes).
Saturday
Fairy Falls Hike (loved it). Stopped on the way to take pictures of Grand Prismatic from the hill. Continued on the Imperial Geyser and climbed the smaller hill on the right. You can see the Midway Basin from there also. Stopped at Old Faithful on the way back to eat and watch her go off. Took the road back toward Canyon past the West Thumb area. Turned out to be one of the best choices we made. At Hayden Valley there were people looking through their scopes. It turned out that the wolves were down by the river. Some people had ventured down there, on the other side of the river, which scared the wolves back up the hill. As you can imagine, there were many very angry people yelling at them to get out of there. During this time an elk and baby appeared and the wolves ran down again and the elk retreated to the river. The ranger came and cited the people for getting too close to wildlife (I heard this on another forum). We spent the rest of the evening until it was dark watching the wolves and elk. We just ate peanut butter sandwiches in our room that night.
Sunday
After checking out the Hayden Valley -- wolves still there, but at a distance, elk gone -- went back up the road to do the Mt. Washburn hike (Crittenden Rd side). Saw a marmot and a couple of mountain sheep. Back to Hayden Valley to watch the wolves play (through scopes).
Sep 15th, 2007, 10:26 AM
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Monday
Checked out of Canyon. A couple of more buffalo road jams today, stopped to check out wolves at Hayden. Took the West Yellowstone exit to see the other side of the Tetons (from Idaho) on our way towards Jackson. Stopped at Mesa Falls and Cave Falls on the way, then over Teton Pass. Saw a bull moose on the Moose-Wilson Rd, then checked into Signal Mountain.
Tuesday
Took a float trip from Signal Mountain which we really enjoyed -- saw eagles, osprey and otter. Had lunch at Dorman's then went on to Visitor Center at Moose. It was the first night for the Wildlife Safari, so we signed up for that. Had a couple of hours to kill, so went over to see Gros Ventre Slide which was very interesting. Saw pronghorn on the way back.
Started the Wildlife Safari by going to Antelope Flats Rd. to see a buffalo herd. While watching them, someone noticed a buffalo away from the herd. Turned out she was giving birth. Unusual that late in the season. Next stop Schwabacher Landing where we saw a beaver in the river (another first). Then to Taggert Lake trailhead area where we finally saw our first moose elk with a harem (this year) with pronghorn grazing with them. Getting dark and rain was coming. We went to Wilson to Noras Fish Creek for dinner.
Checked out of Canyon. A couple of more buffalo road jams today, stopped to check out wolves at Hayden. Took the West Yellowstone exit to see the other side of the Tetons (from Idaho) on our way towards Jackson. Stopped at Mesa Falls and Cave Falls on the way, then over Teton Pass. Saw a bull moose on the Moose-Wilson Rd, then checked into Signal Mountain.
Tuesday
Took a float trip from Signal Mountain which we really enjoyed -- saw eagles, osprey and otter. Had lunch at Dorman's then went on to Visitor Center at Moose. It was the first night for the Wildlife Safari, so we signed up for that. Had a couple of hours to kill, so went over to see Gros Ventre Slide which was very interesting. Saw pronghorn on the way back.
Started the Wildlife Safari by going to Antelope Flats Rd. to see a buffalo herd. While watching them, someone noticed a buffalo away from the herd. Turned out she was giving birth. Unusual that late in the season. Next stop Schwabacher Landing where we saw a beaver in the river (another first). Then to Taggert Lake trailhead area where we finally saw our first moose elk with a harem (this year) with pronghorn grazing with them. Getting dark and rain was coming. We went to Wilson to Noras Fish Creek for dinner.
Sep 15th, 2007, 10:36 AM
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Almost done.
Wednesday
After morning animal search. Did see a bull moose by Oxbow Bend, we took the ferry for the Hidden Falls hike. I can see why this is so popular, fantastic hike. Continued up to Inspiration Point and then on Cascade Canyon trail for about a mile to a meadow with a river running through it. It was getting very overcast, so we turned around there. It started raining by the time we got back to Inspiration Point and when we hit the Hidden Falls area people were coming back from the ferry and said it had stopped because of lightning. We took the trail around the lake back to the dock. (they did refund $4 for the return passage to everyone which surprised me since the ferry started running again when we were about half way back).
Thursday
Yet another animal search. This time we saw a moose and 2 babies lying in the grass near the Jackson Lake Lodge turnoff. A short distance up the road there was a moose and baby walking near the road. We drove to Two Ocean Lake and Pacific Rd, then onto Jackson for lunch and shopping. Ate a Snake River Brewery (carrot soup was delicious). On the way back drove down Gros Ventre Rd and saw a buffalo herd with a baby (figured it was the one we saw born since in the same area). Drove up Mormon Row. Drove Jenny Lake Scenic Drive and Signal Mountain.
Friday
Checked out. Saw two cranes near road past the Dam.
Didn't want to leave. Hope to go back sooner this time.
Wednesday
After morning animal search. Did see a bull moose by Oxbow Bend, we took the ferry for the Hidden Falls hike. I can see why this is so popular, fantastic hike. Continued up to Inspiration Point and then on Cascade Canyon trail for about a mile to a meadow with a river running through it. It was getting very overcast, so we turned around there. It started raining by the time we got back to Inspiration Point and when we hit the Hidden Falls area people were coming back from the ferry and said it had stopped because of lightning. We took the trail around the lake back to the dock. (they did refund $4 for the return passage to everyone which surprised me since the ferry started running again when we were about half way back).
Thursday
Yet another animal search. This time we saw a moose and 2 babies lying in the grass near the Jackson Lake Lodge turnoff. A short distance up the road there was a moose and baby walking near the road. We drove to Two Ocean Lake and Pacific Rd, then onto Jackson for lunch and shopping. Ate a Snake River Brewery (carrot soup was delicious). On the way back drove down Gros Ventre Rd and saw a buffalo herd with a baby (figured it was the one we saw born since in the same area). Drove up Mormon Row. Drove Jenny Lake Scenic Drive and Signal Mountain.
Friday
Checked out. Saw two cranes near road past the Dam.
Didn't want to leave. Hope to go back sooner this time.
Sep 15th, 2007, 05:31 PM
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Thanks for the report Maj! What a great trip you had, so many animal sightings. You were lucky to see a beaver, they are so shy! And a moose with twins - very rare also! I go to Yellowstone frequently since I live fairly close, but I've yet to see a wolf.
Glad you had a good time!
Glad you had a good time!
Sep 20th, 2007, 07:42 AM
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What a pleasure to read your trip report. We are going to Jax Hole the 1st of October and hope we get to see some of the sights you did, especially the wild-life. However, we only have 3 full days to spend making day trips from Jax Hole. Any suggestions on priorities?
Sep 20th, 2007, 09:20 AM
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As Dayle said, you won't have time to explore Yellowstone in depth, so, if I were going to do it that way -- and we ran into quite a few people that were doing day trips from Jackson -- this would probably be my recommendation. First, realize that you aren't going to be able to see everything and have a very flexible schedule of what you want to see. For us, the best part is the unexpected stops for animal sightings on the way to different areas. You may also find some road closures (like the one near Tower Falls) because of snow at that time. I would probably go one day on the Old Faithful side of the park with a stop there and a few other places along that route, continuing onto Mammoth if you have time. If you do make it to Mammoth, you can continue the figure 8 on the other side past Tower and Canyon, etc.(that may be a pretty hectic day though). Another day I would go up the other side, past Yellowstone Lake and explore Canyon (at least stop at the overlooks). Hayden Valley, between the two is a great wildlife area. If you don't make it to Mammoth, you can save that area for another visit. It took us two tries to finally make it to the Lamar Valley.
Then I would spend a day (actually if you don't want to go to Yellowstone again, you could spend two) in the Tetons. You will probably see lots of herds(or harems) of elk, pronghorn and buffalo near the road at that time of year. If you want to do a hike, the Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point hike was great. The shuttle ferry will probably be closed by then so you will have to hike around Jenny Lake to get there (about 2 plus miles), or you can just hike around some of the lakes in the GTNP. We didn't spend much time in the Tetons on our last visits. Spent 4 nights this time and really enjoyed it.
A web site I followed before our trip that is really helpful is:
http://www.yellowstone.net/forums/
There are trip reports and pictures on it from people who are there now (as well as posters who live in the area and/or are frequent visitors). It gives you an idea of where they are seeing animals now. Although most of it is just luck (right place at right time). Have a great trip!
Then I would spend a day (actually if you don't want to go to Yellowstone again, you could spend two) in the Tetons. You will probably see lots of herds(or harems) of elk, pronghorn and buffalo near the road at that time of year. If you want to do a hike, the Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point hike was great. The shuttle ferry will probably be closed by then so you will have to hike around Jenny Lake to get there (about 2 plus miles), or you can just hike around some of the lakes in the GTNP. We didn't spend much time in the Tetons on our last visits. Spent 4 nights this time and really enjoyed it.
A web site I followed before our trip that is really helpful is:
http://www.yellowstone.net/forums/
There are trip reports and pictures on it from people who are there now (as well as posters who live in the area and/or are frequent visitors). It gives you an idea of where they are seeing animals now. Although most of it is just luck (right place at right time). Have a great trip!
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