Yellowstone, GTNP, GNP - Can We Avoid Crowds, Mosquitos, and Snow?
 

DH and I are planning a trip to Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, and Glacier for next year and I'm trying to decide when to go. We are retired so aren't bound by school schedules or anything like that. We do want to drive the Going To The Sun road, though, so want to avoid snow if we can. We also want to avoid mosquitos and (as much as possible) crowds.

I'm think that avoiding snow means going between mid-June and mid-September. How are the biting bugs then? Is any time better for avoiding crowds, or is that just not possible?

If it matters, I'm thinking of taking 2 to 2.5 weeks for this trip. No real time constraints, it's just a matter of $$ and how long it will take us to OD on gorgeous scenery. ;-)

Thanks for any advice!

I've been to GT/YSt more than 30 times, including 2 two-week stays this year. Only once to Glacier, though. Bugs are rarely any trouble at Teton or Yellowstone, but this July there were some mosquitos and a black fly problem. No problems in September.

We try to visit Teton/Y'stone after Labor Day for several reasons, but it almost guarantees a bug free trip. June in both parks can be affected by snow on the roads (Yellowstone) or snow on the trails (GT). I really like both parks in June when everything is just getting started and the snow makes for some extra pretty sights. At GT or Yellowstone, June and September have the advantage of smaller crowds and almost no children. Kids aren't a big nuisance outdoors, but the hotels and restaurants in Yellowstone get to be less pleasant with lots of children.

Glacier is actually at a much lower elevation (mostly) than Yellowstone or GT, and can be balmier in June or September. However, the Sun road gets plowed in the Spring, sometime, and you'll need to make sure it's open before planning that trip.

Agree with all of the above, plus you can't really get away from some crowds in Yellowstone. It is a national and international destination, and for good reason. However, just don't be in a hurry and realize that it's a special setting that attracts a lot of visitors. I have been to Yellowstone several times and I always love it despite the fact that a lot of others are there loving it with me. GTNP never seems as crowded because it appeals more to a serious hiking crowd, but is still worth visiting. I haven't been to Glacier so can't help with that one.

I would start your trip right after Labor Day. Bring layers, because it can be chilly at night and in the morning, but still warm during the day. Definitely stay in the park, and make your reservations as early as possible to get a choice of accommodations.

Have a great time.

Thanks for the advice! I was leaning toward late August or early September partly because that's when I most want to get out of Florida. ;-) But I heard somewhere that mosquitos are really bad in August so that concerned me a bit. I'm used to FL mosquitos but those Northern ones are a lot more vicious!

So I'll plan on going around the first of Sep and starting at GTNP and working our way north (I'm basing that on GNP being a lower elevation so maybe the snow will be later there). Just need to figure out how much time we need in each place and look for available lodging.

I love planning trips!

September would be beautiful!

Agree September would be a beautiful time for all three parks - no crowds, beautiful weather, no bugs.

You should make your reservations as early as possible b/c they do book pretty far in advance. But if you don't get the dates you want, keep calling b/c there are always cancellations.

I think the best time for Yellowstone in 2nd week of June. Smaller crowds and bigger waterfalls. You are likely to see more wildlife/bears this time rather than July or August. However, since you are going to both parks and spending 2.5 weeks there, then you should see plenty of wildlife.

I think Late July is best for Glacier. If you go the end of June and even the 1st of July to Glacier, there is a huge risk that the Going To The Sun Road won't be fully open. The later you wait, the less the waterfalls will be going. I was disappointed in the waterfalls at Glacier this year, and we were there the last week of July.

Of course, you would have smaller crowds, fall colors, and elk would be in rut if you go in Sept. Waterfalls will not be going that much, but would be ok.

BTW, You are already behind on your lodging. You probably should have already decided that. Book ASAP.

I wouldn't worry about the bugs to much. I would buy bear spray, if you plan on doing any hiking at all.

I realize that September would not be good for waterfalls - we ran into that when we visited Yosemite in September. But there are so many other gorgeous sights that I think we can handle missing out on those.

And I know I'm late in booking lodging, but at least we aren't real picky and don't have our hearts set on any particular place. It does look like there are still rooms available in most places, so we should be OK.

Does bear spray really work? I know you're supposed to make noise and try not to "sneak up" on the bears, but does the spray help if you do get into trouble?

We stopped counting the bears at Glacier after only a mile of driving. HA

Yes, the bear spray works. Supposedly, more effective than a gun.
FWIW,
Try for Many Glacier in Glacier. I like Roosevelt Lodge and Lake Hotel. And by all means, try try try for Old Faithful Inn.
In Yellowstone I would stay 2 or 3 different areas.

I'm not sure I have an opinion of lodging at The Tetons. It just depends on what you are looking for there.

September is my favorite time in Yellowstone and GTNP. The animals are coming down from the high country, the elk might be bugling. The crowds are very reduced. But there is a possibility of snow. I am in Utah and we got snow above 7K feet last week (OF is at 8K I think). So I would take warm clothes and hope you don't need them!! I have spent many lovely warm fall days in those parks and it is superb.

I just returned from Yellowstone and Grand Teton on Sunday, after 9 days (Sept. 20-29) in the parks. I feel it was a week too late in the season. The beginning of our trip the weather in GT was gorgeous, but by Wednesday of last week the weather changed drastically. It became quite cold (30 degrees) and snowed in Yellowstone -- we went from Mammoth down to Old Faithful and all the trees had snow-covered branches, and the rangers were shutting or restricting several of the roads because of ice. I wore 5 layers for several days. But the wildlife sightings were wonderful. The elk were indeed bugling and it was a haunting sound. We saw many bison, and on a road trip out to Lamar Valley were lucky to see a mama grizzly and her 2 cubs. It is true, there are fewer people -- almost no children and no families, and the crowd is much more international, and older. Also, some places were starting to shut down.

So my suggestion for you is to do in September, but the first half of the month, not the second half, like we did. But whenever you go you will certainly enjoy it!

Totally agree last few days of August to get to St. Mary and then over the GTTS road staying in Whitefish or Columbia Falls.
Are you driving from Florida or flying somewhere and renting a car?
I was in Yellowstone in early August. The only place that was really crowded was the area around Old Faithful at that time.
The seating was full at the time of the eruption so I sat in front of the first row of seating without blocking anyone's view.
Good luck on getting lodging reservations in Yellowstone.
This may dictate which park you go to first (or last).
While I was at the PIT project in SW Montana, we had a "bear talk" from USFS people who regularly carry bear spray on trails. The best tip is to make sure the wind is at your back if you must use the spray and to look as big as you can. Never try to outrun a bear (black or grizzly). Sing or talk to let the bears know you are in the area.

I very much appreciate all of the comments and advice. Here's what I'm thinking of doing.

BTW, we are 65 and 56, in reasonable shape, and enjoy moderate hiking, photography, and enjoying nature. We are retired so our time is limited only by budget and physical exhaustion (we can only handle so much hiking!).

Flying from Florida to Jackson on Aug. 28 and renting a car. Spend 4 nights at Jackson Lake Lodge. I don't like the idea of moving every couple of days, so I'm hoping this will be a decent central location to see GTNP from.

On Sep 1, drive to Yellowstone and spend 2 nights at Old Faithful Inn (which is better - the East Wing or the West Wing?) and then 2 nights at Canyon Lodge. I would be happy enough to spend 4 nights at Canyon Lodge and not have to move, but I hate to pass up the chance to stay at OFI!

On Sep 5, drive to Glacier National Park for 4 nights at Rising Sun Motor Lodge. Would that be central enough to allow for some hiking at Many Glacier and still drive Going To The Sun Road (going both ways in 1 day)? Or would it be better to do a 1-way trip on GTTSR and spending a night on the west side?

I was planning to fly back around Sep 11 or 12, just to give us a few days at the end of the trip to see other sights in the area, or even go back to one of the parks.

Thanks again!

Nothing wrong with your hotel plans-- but a couple comments:

Jackson Lake Lodge is very nice with one of my favorite restaurants (the main dining room is great for all three meals), but it's a national park concession and has no TV and is quite a way from Jackson and the main hiking trails in the Park. Reservations in the Jackson area are not hard to find, so I think you have plenty of time. If you want TV and to be closer to other restaurants, etc., you might look at Teton Village hotels.

Old Faithful is a great place to stay. One of the wings (I think west side) is newish and has newer rooms. I don't know about the wing closer to Old Faithful, as far as any refurbishing of the interiors. However, you're typically in the rooms at Yellowstone so little that I rarely care about the rooms, as long as they have bathrooms.

Glacier's east side is kind of remote and a fairly long ride from the west, so I wouldn't plan to drive back and forth for lunch, for example. The view at Many Glacier is one of the more spectacular that I have ever seen, and I would consider at night at the Many Glacier hotel.