YELLOWSTONE/GRAND TETONS - TOO MANY DAYS?
 

Hello. We will be visiting the Yellowstone - Grand Tetons area next August & I am making the reservations now. We will be leaving the Los Angeles area & will be gone for two weeks. I am wondering if I am staying too long in Yellowstone & whether there will be enough to do in each place. We will be staying at the Grand Tetons for 2 days. Then the Old Faithful Inn for 3 days. Then I was thinking about Mammoth Hot Springs for a day, Roosevelt for a day & the Lake for 2 days.

It will be my wife, 16 year old son & myself. We are not into hiking or swimming. We do like walks, riding bikes, & enjoying the scenery & hope to see some rare wildlife. I am happy with my 2 days at G.T, & 3 days at the O.F.I. But I am not sure there is enough to warrant a full day at Mammoth & two days at the Lake. I am doing the park this way because I know the traffic can be so bad sometimes that it's best to do the park in sections. I welcome any suggestions of other things to o in the area that will not require too much driving as we will still have that long 3 day ride back to L.A. Thanks for any advice you may have.

It all depends on your style. I was just there last week.

My plan was 2 days at Old Faithful area, 3 days in Canyon and 2 days in Grand Tetons.

My style is that I only do easy things. While I'll stop wherever I want for as long as I want, I'm non-stop all day. I can start before 7 and go until it gets dark.

I'm not a long hiker but I do hike quite a bit for the sights and scenery.

When I researched the trip, Mammoth and Lake areas didn't interest me.

Because of my style we were finished with the Upper Basin (OF) area in about a day and a half. As a result, instead of going directly to Canyon we drove all the way to the top and stopped at Mammoth for a while. It was neither hot for wet. I don't really know what the attraction is.

However, it did give us a chance to add two more waterfalls: Rustic and Undine.

While we didn't stay in Tower we drove back twice from Canyon to do hikes (Yellowstone Picnic Area and Hellroaring). We also drove partway back to hike to the top of Mt Washburn.

Most of the wildlife is in the Lamar Valley west of Tower and Hayden Valley just south of Canyon. We saw several deer just south of Canyon and north of Hayden. After a while you get tired of bison. A lot of those and they cause the traffic jams as they walk all over the road.

We only had a very few traffic jams. Most of the time the wildlife is off the road so those interested pull over to the side.

We spent 2 days in GTNP. Saw deer, moose and black bear.

I'm not sure what the difference is between a hike and a walk. Unless you consider a walk shorter and/or easier.

The longest hike we took was Mt Washburn. It's probably the easiest as the trail is actually a smooth dirt road. It's very strenuous as you start at 8,800ft and end about 1,400ft above. It was cold and windy at the top. Along the way we saw a coyote and a bunch of prong-horn sheep on the next mountain. Would have been nice on our mtn.

From what you wrote I think you may be staying too long and moving too much. Not many traffic jams.

This is the minimum amount of time, I would say. Last summer we had a great time staying at Roosevelt for 4 nights (small cabin but great place), and at snow lodge cabins for 4 nights (hotel room-like cabins, not as nice immediate setting but nice area) and then at signal lodge at grand tetons for 3 nights. The park, like the LA area, is realllly big. there is a lot to do in different areas. for roosevelt, it was fun to do the cowboy cookout by wagon and a horse back ride another day (reserve the cowboy cookout tickets now - really!). I loved getting up early at roosevelt and driving out the Lamar Valley to see the place in the amazing morning light. Hardly a soul out there except the animals. We didnt' spend much time at the lake, but it is huge and beutiful. Lots happening at the visitor centers at Mammoth, the Falls, Old Faithful and at Moose in GTNP. Look for scheduled ranger talks and walks as they are excellent. I figure you have to be the best of the best to get an interpretive job at Yellowstone and GTNP. Those rangers knew their stuff. Bring or buy a spotting scope and binoculars if you can. Try Eagle Optics on line. We got great use out of our spotting scope in both parks.

We recently spent two weeks at Glacier, Yellowstone, and the Grand Tetons.

Because of huge crowds in Yellowstone, we preferred Glacier, the Grand Tetons, and the beautiful, less visited north part of Yellowstone.

In Glacier, we especially enjoyed the two-lake boat cruise at Many Glaciers, and on our next visit we would like to stay at Many Glacier Hotel.

Other highlights of our trip included stays in the towns of Bigfork, Ennis, Emigrant, and Red Lodge (in MT) and Buffalo and Dubois (in WY) and the drive on the Beartooth Highway, which connects Yellowstone Park with Big Fork, MT.

HTTY

Thanks to all for the helpful info.

We visited Grand Tetons and Yellowstone in June, spending one night in Jackson and most of two days in GTNP, then three nights in Yellowstone - one at Old Faithful, one at Mammoth, and one at Canyon. This was a good amount of time for us, though if Tower/Roosevelt lodging had been open, we might have opted to spend a night there.

One activity we really enjoyed was taking a float trip with Triangle X. There's a link in my trip report - click on my name and you'll find it.

Lee Ann

Our family returned from Yellowstone a few weeks ago. We stayed 1 night at Old Faithful Inn and 3 nights in the canyon western cabin. 1 night in the Old Faithful area was enough!! It's the most crowded area and 1 day is enough time to see all the geysers. The canyon cabin was great, as it is in the middle of Yellowstone. Also it is close to Hayden valley for morning and evening wildlife viewing. We drove over the Dunraven pass to Lamar Valley twice. I loved that area for it's scenic beauty and wildlife. You will love it. Hope this helps and you have a great trip.

We did a similar trip 9 years ago and spent 2 nights in Jackson (also known as Jackson Hole)in addition to 2 nights at Grand Teton and 4 nights at Yellowstone. It was a nice change up from all the scenery, nature, hikes, etc. and our teenage children enjoyed it.

Back to what I wrote way above. Lamar is east of Tower and not west.

I'm in the middle of writing a trip report and reviewing photos. It'll be ready in about a week or so.

As you can see, there are different styles of travel and visiting the parks. You have to try and match your style with a description given by others.

I found that the only time the crowds bothered me was at the Jenny Lake hike to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. Had we held hands we could have formed a human chain.

Aside from that the crowds never were an issue although I was quite surprised how many people did things away from the road.

I had read that you lose 85% of the people 50 yards from their car. That is probably true but we still saw people hiking/walking some distances.

This held true even in the OF area where the 15% who did walk from the OF viewing area still gave the area a populated look.

CORRECTION: The drive on the Beartooth Highway, which connects Yellowstone Park with <i>Red Lodge, MT.</i> There we enjoyed our stay at Rocky Fork Inn and our dinner at Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen.

HTTY

I'm back.

For those who think Old Faithful or better yet the Upper and Midway Basins are just geysers , nothing else and deserve no more than a day.

We hiked the Mystic falls trail. It's not long at all and has one of the nicest waterfalls at the end. The setting of the falls is great and so is the angle of view.

The two most colorful sights are Morning Glory (very small) just beyond Riverside Geyser and Grand Prismatic Spring.

The problem with GPS is that it's very large and the viewing area is at ground level. You just don't get a good view of it.

Well there's a remedy. If you hike the first mile of the Fairy Falls hike it takes you to the opposite side of GPS.

At that point there's an unofficial trail (somewhat challenging - for me anyway) that leads up a hill and overlooks the complete GPS.

I was a bit surprised that there were about 15 people up there and as some left others arrived.

The view from there is almost a hellicopter view. Worth the hike and climb.

I would view the Upper basin or at least Geyser Hill a couple of times at different times of the day. The different lighting is great. At time it felt like a Sherlock Holmes movie on the marshes.

My favorite places to stay are Lake, Old Faithful and Roosevelt. I agree one night at OF is enough; it is a cool place but busy!!! I think Lake has a nice relaxed atmosphere. I think how long you stay is such a personal decision; I like to spend at least 4 days in the park.

The lighting at the mud pots and geysers (depending on the air temp and breezes and all the other factors) can be just amazing. If you are an early morning person, getting out and around while the air temp is still cool and steam is big, is great. My husband ended up really loving the mud pots. Who knew? Another interesting place is the Old Faithful Inn. It is the huge old wooden craftsman-style lodge. We took a free guided tour that was so interesting. If you are at all interested in that type of architecture or in the history of the national parks, you would enjoy it. And even if you aren't staying there, you can go wander around and hang out by the fire place and on the balconies. Beautiful. Also, if you see the great volunteer around the mud pots who fishes trash out of them with a looooong-handled spoon, say hello. He is a great guy to chat with.

I agree with Myer that one day is not enough time to see the Old Faithful and other geyser basins but to each his own. Three days would be my miniumum and I'll bet you will be happy you had that much time.

I'd like to add Lone Star Geyser to your list of things to do. We've been many, many times to Yellowstone and finally did this 5 mile round trip hike and it was so worth it. If you don't want CROWDS...this is the place to go! Check at the visitor center so you can try and hit an eruption.

I like the Mammoth Hot Springs area but it's not like it was 30 some years ago when Minerva Terrace was active. The Hot Springs are still beautiful and I feel it's worth my time to go back each time we visit.

Utahtea

Ahhhh. So Mammoth used to be different.

I'm glad there was once something there because I was wondering.

We stayed 1 night at OFI, 1 night at Roosevelt, and 1 night at Lake Hotel. We then stayed 2 nights at Colter Village Cabin in the Tetons. We were there in June, so crowds weren't to bad, except at Jenny Lake/Hidden Falls hike. I think 2 nights at each place would have been much better. Mammoth was by far our least favorite area. This is a great place to see a lot of elk up really really close, though. I think 1 night at Lake would have been enough. Even though you say you don't hike or swim, you might give it a try. Doesn't get much better than Yellowstone. I would spend an entire day just Geyser Gazing. See Old Faithful, Riverside, Castle, and Daisy Geysers-plus any others that you happen to catch. Each one is unique. I didn't swim in Firehole or Boiling River, but if I were going to be there in August, I would certainly give it a try. Yellowstone Expedition Guidebook is a good one. Fodors and Lonely Planet are good as well. Roosevelt isn't to far from Canyon area, so you could spend a night or two there. I personally wouldn't stay at Mammoth, maybe just a half day visit.

I was at Mammoth last month and it broke my heart. It used to be so spectacular. I never imagined it could be so...dead. :-(

UTAHTEA, SO GLAD TO SEE YOU HERE!!!

We did 6 nights in Yellowstone and it was barely enough - 2 nights each in OFI, Mammoth and Canyon, figuring that would give us time in the north, south and center of the park. Since Roosevelt was already closed for the season, we opted to stay in Mammoth and loved it. The rutting elk put on a show each night, bugling and struting around. It was incredible! And the food in the dining room at Mammoth was really good compared to Canyon area, where it was by far the worst. And Canyon was really crowded, even at the scenic overlooks for the falls, etc.
We saw wildlife everywhere - black bear and cubs, grizzly, cinnamon bear, coyotes and fox everywhere as well as bison, elk, pronghorn antelope, and deer. Lots of bighorn sheep, osprey, bald eagles, and, best of all, wolves! A couple of good sightings through binoculars - just amazing. The Lamar and Hayden Valleys were prime wildlife areas although we had two different grizz sightings near the Lake.

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/67839325

The thermal features are remarkable. Be sure to walk the trails through Old Faithful and Norris. We pretty much saw The Lake area surprised us. Being from upstate NY where we have lakes everywhere, we thought we'd skip the lake. We couldn't - it's huge! Saw lots of wildlife around Fishing Bridge and beyond and really enjoyed seeing the thermal features along the shore and in the lake.

I don't think you're staying too long at all. Just be prepared to drive a bunch, but the sights along the way are many and incredible. Take your time and enjoy them. Bring binoculars for each of you, if possible. And be up early and stay out til dusk - best wildlife viewing times. We watched a grizzly dining on an elk carcass (thru binoculars) one evening - really cool! Have a great trip.

I think you are staying just the right amount of time. We spent a day just driving/hiking the north & south rims (where you see Upper & Lower Yellowstone Falls.) You can click on my username for my trip report! :)