Wonderful Sailing Trip to Maine-- Here's My Report
Aug 13th, 2001, 08:04 AM
#1
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Wonderful Sailing Trip to Maine-- Here's My Report
My husband and I just returned from a wonderful trip to Maine. It exceeded all expectations. We spent about half our time on land, driving and staying in small inns, and about half on a 40-foot sailboat.
Our trip was built around a sailboat charter with Hinckley Yacht Charters out of Southwest Harbor, on Mount Desert Island. Hinckley has a long history of building beautiful boats, both sail and power. It was a dream of my husband's to sail a Bermuda 40. What we were not prepared for was how outstanding the sailing would be. For a wonderful combination of good wind, flat water, beautiful anchorages, friendly marinas and towns, reasonable sailing distances and great food, the Maine coast cannot be beat! We spent most of our time in the western Penobscot Bay, in and around the Eggemoggin Reach, a fabled 10-mile stretch of wonderful sailing.
Before and after our charter we explored the coast, driving slowly north from Boston. We stopped briefly in Portsmouth, NH before spending our first night in York. Then we visited Cape Neddick, Kennebunkport, Freeport (LL Bean, of course) and ended up at our first inn, the Newagen Seaside Inn, south of Boothbay Harbor, way out on the peninsula. The inn is remote, in the best sense, about 30 minutes from Highway 1. It's an old-fashioned place, with activities and its own dining room. We stayed there two nights, and spent the day in between visiting the Bath Maritime Museum, which was terrific, Boothbay Harbor and Wiscasset. We also spent a fair amount of time in the inn's Adirondack chairs and hammock! We ate our first night at the inn, and our second night at the Boothbay Harbor Inn.
The next day we took a little back road through Damariscotta to Pemaquid Point, to see the lighthouse. Then back to Highway 1 around Penobscot Bay. We went to the Farnsworth Museum in Rockland, and had a wonderful lunch (terrific crab quiche with fresh corn!) at Market on Maine, just across the street. Then we took a detour to a couple of harbors that we anticipated visiting by boat, Rockport and Tenants Harbor. We spent the evening and night in Camden, a lovely town that I wish we had seen more of. We stayed at the Maine Stay Inn, in their Carriage House room, which is lined with bookshelves, and opens on to their garden. Peter Smith, then owner, has invested tons of time in researching wonderful outings from the inn, and can provide a wealth of information. We just didn't have enough time to take full advantage. It was very humid that day, and eventually rained, so we spent less time outdoors than we had hoped, but we did visit the library, and walk around town, and we had a very good dinner at the Waterfront Restaurant, overlooking, you guessed it, the waterfront. This is one of the prettiest harbors I have seen anywhere.
Our trip was built around a sailboat charter with Hinckley Yacht Charters out of Southwest Harbor, on Mount Desert Island. Hinckley has a long history of building beautiful boats, both sail and power. It was a dream of my husband's to sail a Bermuda 40. What we were not prepared for was how outstanding the sailing would be. For a wonderful combination of good wind, flat water, beautiful anchorages, friendly marinas and towns, reasonable sailing distances and great food, the Maine coast cannot be beat! We spent most of our time in the western Penobscot Bay, in and around the Eggemoggin Reach, a fabled 10-mile stretch of wonderful sailing.
Before and after our charter we explored the coast, driving slowly north from Boston. We stopped briefly in Portsmouth, NH before spending our first night in York. Then we visited Cape Neddick, Kennebunkport, Freeport (LL Bean, of course) and ended up at our first inn, the Newagen Seaside Inn, south of Boothbay Harbor, way out on the peninsula. The inn is remote, in the best sense, about 30 minutes from Highway 1. It's an old-fashioned place, with activities and its own dining room. We stayed there two nights, and spent the day in between visiting the Bath Maritime Museum, which was terrific, Boothbay Harbor and Wiscasset. We also spent a fair amount of time in the inn's Adirondack chairs and hammock! We ate our first night at the inn, and our second night at the Boothbay Harbor Inn.
The next day we took a little back road through Damariscotta to Pemaquid Point, to see the lighthouse. Then back to Highway 1 around Penobscot Bay. We went to the Farnsworth Museum in Rockland, and had a wonderful lunch (terrific crab quiche with fresh corn!) at Market on Maine, just across the street. Then we took a detour to a couple of harbors that we anticipated visiting by boat, Rockport and Tenants Harbor. We spent the evening and night in Camden, a lovely town that I wish we had seen more of. We stayed at the Maine Stay Inn, in their Carriage House room, which is lined with bookshelves, and opens on to their garden. Peter Smith, then owner, has invested tons of time in researching wonderful outings from the inn, and can provide a wealth of information. We just didn't have enough time to take full advantage. It was very humid that day, and eventually rained, so we spent less time outdoors than we had hoped, but we did visit the library, and walk around town, and we had a very good dinner at the Waterfront Restaurant, overlooking, you guessed it, the waterfront. This is one of the prettiest harbors I have seen anywhere.
Aug 13th, 2001, 08:05 AM
#2
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Part 2...
The next morning was beautiful again, so we drove to the top of Mt Battie to enjoy the view. Then we continued north. We turned off of 1 at Orland, and drove to Castine. This is another harbor we thought we might visit, and it is a charming town on the northwest edge of Penobscot Bay. We took a walking tour of town and saw a very special quilt made by residents for their bicentennial. From there we continued on to Blue Hill. It was a beautiful country drive all the way, and Blue Hill is a wonderful, artsy little town. We visited galleries and had lunch at Jean Paul's. This is a French bistro open only in the summer, and while there are tables, it couldn't be more perfect to sit in an Adirondack chair down by the bay with your lunch. Afterward we went to visit Joel White's Boatyard, where beautiful wooden sailboats continue to be built. Then we got back on the road and made it to Southwest Harbor. We stayed that night and for two nights after our boat charter at the Lindenwood Inn. The inn has a lovely décor, more modern than is typical, and has its own very good restaurant. We had chosen to stay in Southwest Harbor rather than Bar Harbor because of the charter company being there, but we were ultimately very happy with that choice. They call it "the quiet side of the island", and it is, yet it still has nice inns, good restaurants and proximity to Acadia National Park.
The next day we boarded he boat, but before we did we drove to the top of Cadillac Mountain, and did the Loop Road. Cadillac Mountain is wonderful. The "bald" top is quite unique, and the views are wonderful. Then we went to the marina to claim our boat and get checked out. Once we were settled there, we opted to spend the first night in the marina, as the weather looked a little unsettled (It was a pattern throughout the trip that it would look like some rain might be coming, and the news would warn of thunderstorms, but it wouldn't amount to more than a few sprinkles).
The next morning was beautiful again, so we drove to the top of Mt Battie to enjoy the view. Then we continued north. We turned off of 1 at Orland, and drove to Castine. This is another harbor we thought we might visit, and it is a charming town on the northwest edge of Penobscot Bay. We took a walking tour of town and saw a very special quilt made by residents for their bicentennial. From there we continued on to Blue Hill. It was a beautiful country drive all the way, and Blue Hill is a wonderful, artsy little town. We visited galleries and had lunch at Jean Paul's. This is a French bistro open only in the summer, and while there are tables, it couldn't be more perfect to sit in an Adirondack chair down by the bay with your lunch. Afterward we went to visit Joel White's Boatyard, where beautiful wooden sailboats continue to be built. Then we got back on the road and made it to Southwest Harbor. We stayed that night and for two nights after our boat charter at the Lindenwood Inn. The inn has a lovely décor, more modern than is typical, and has its own very good restaurant. We had chosen to stay in Southwest Harbor rather than Bar Harbor because of the charter company being there, but we were ultimately very happy with that choice. They call it "the quiet side of the island", and it is, yet it still has nice inns, good restaurants and proximity to Acadia National Park.
The next day we boarded he boat, but before we did we drove to the top of Cadillac Mountain, and did the Loop Road. Cadillac Mountain is wonderful. The "bald" top is quite unique, and the views are wonderful. Then we went to the marina to claim our boat and get checked out. Once we were settled there, we opted to spend the first night in the marina, as the weather looked a little unsettled (It was a pattern throughout the trip that it would look like some rain might be coming, and the news would warn of thunderstorms, but it wouldn't amount to more than a few sprinkles).
Aug 13th, 2001, 08:06 AM
#3
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Part 3...
The next day we took off sailing. We didn't visit many sites along the way-- the emphasis was on sailing. I'll just list our stops:
Buck's Harbor (near Brooksville)
Pulpit Harbor (Northhaven Island)
Buck's Harbor
Bass Harbor (on Mount Desert Island)
Northeast Harbor (also on MDI)
Somesville (in Somes Sound)
As you can see, we never made it to Camden or Rockport for the night. This was a change in plans due to both weather, and the fact that we were determined to have a really great sail in Eggemoggin Reach, which had eluded us when we passed through it on the first day. There are many, many more wonderful places to stop and moor or anchor.
Regarding food, I have to mention that we had some wonderful meals during our cruise as well, sometimes in unexpected places. In Brooksville, a short distance up the road from Buck's Harbor, behind the general store is a place called Café OutBack (out back, get it?). I had beautifully prepared scallops there. In Northeast Harbor, which at least more superficially looks like a place you would expect good food, we did indeed have a great meal at 151 Main-- their own gourmet meatloaf. My feeble cooking efforts onboard were looking pretty pathetic by now!
Once we returned the boat we stayed two additional nights in Southwest Harbor. We drove up to Schoodic Point to see just a little more of the coast. That night for dinner we had Mexican food at XYZ in Manset, just one town over from Southwest Harbor. It was wonderful-- much more interesting than tacos and beans! The next day we toured the Hinckley boat yard (by special arrangement of the charter company-- they don't routinely offer tours). Then we rented bikes in Bar Harbor and road along the carriage roads of Acadia national Park. This is, I'm sure, a wonderful thing to do. When we went it was 90 degrees with 90% humidity, so it lost a little charm! But I would recommend it anyway.
The next day we took off sailing. We didn't visit many sites along the way-- the emphasis was on sailing. I'll just list our stops:
Buck's Harbor (near Brooksville)
Pulpit Harbor (Northhaven Island)
Buck's Harbor
Bass Harbor (on Mount Desert Island)
Northeast Harbor (also on MDI)
Somesville (in Somes Sound)
As you can see, we never made it to Camden or Rockport for the night. This was a change in plans due to both weather, and the fact that we were determined to have a really great sail in Eggemoggin Reach, which had eluded us when we passed through it on the first day. There are many, many more wonderful places to stop and moor or anchor.
Regarding food, I have to mention that we had some wonderful meals during our cruise as well, sometimes in unexpected places. In Brooksville, a short distance up the road from Buck's Harbor, behind the general store is a place called Café OutBack (out back, get it?). I had beautifully prepared scallops there. In Northeast Harbor, which at least more superficially looks like a place you would expect good food, we did indeed have a great meal at 151 Main-- their own gourmet meatloaf. My feeble cooking efforts onboard were looking pretty pathetic by now!
Once we returned the boat we stayed two additional nights in Southwest Harbor. We drove up to Schoodic Point to see just a little more of the coast. That night for dinner we had Mexican food at XYZ in Manset, just one town over from Southwest Harbor. It was wonderful-- much more interesting than tacos and beans! The next day we toured the Hinckley boat yard (by special arrangement of the charter company-- they don't routinely offer tours). Then we rented bikes in Bar Harbor and road along the carriage roads of Acadia national Park. This is, I'm sure, a wonderful thing to do. When we went it was 90 degrees with 90% humidity, so it lost a little charm! But I would recommend it anyway.
Aug 13th, 2001, 08:06 AM
#4
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Part 4...
The next day, Saturday, was the date of the Eggemoggin Wooden Boat Regatta. We hoped to see a little of it, so we drove to a point on Deer Isle. We did see boats in the distance, although it was pretty foggy. But in the meantime we discovered how charming Deer Isle is. We didn't spend nearly enough time there, but I would make it a focal point of a future trip. We went back to Jean Paul's in Blue Hill for one more lunch, and then headed south. We spent the night in South Portland (all I could get because of the 10K event going on that weekend), and ate at Rachel's Wood Grille. The next morning we did a little exploring in Portland, before heading back to Boston.
If I had this trip to do again, and I really hope that I do, I would fly to Bangor, and concentrate my time in the Mid-Coast. The area we covered is quite small, and therefore it makes sense to base in no more than a few towns, and stay several nights in each. There were as many sites that we didn't get around to as things as we actually did, and I'd love to try again.
I highly recommend a summer trip. I'm from the West Coast, and out here it doesn't occur to many people to go to Maine other than for "the color". But summer was gorgeous, and I understand that many of the restaurants we enjoyed close up or cut back in the off-season. The weather, in spite of the couple of days of humidity mentioned here, was mostly fantastic-- moderate temperatures, blue, blue skies, puffy white clouds, the works! (Since we returned the area has had quite a heat wave, so I realize that we should be very appreciative of the great weather we had.) All in all, it was a joy, and I would love to help with anyone else's planning.
Oh, and a big thank you to those who responded to my query about books to read. I read Stern Men and Colony, and each in its own way gave a great sense of the area. And I saw lots of McCloskey references along the way too.
The next day, Saturday, was the date of the Eggemoggin Wooden Boat Regatta. We hoped to see a little of it, so we drove to a point on Deer Isle. We did see boats in the distance, although it was pretty foggy. But in the meantime we discovered how charming Deer Isle is. We didn't spend nearly enough time there, but I would make it a focal point of a future trip. We went back to Jean Paul's in Blue Hill for one more lunch, and then headed south. We spent the night in South Portland (all I could get because of the 10K event going on that weekend), and ate at Rachel's Wood Grille. The next morning we did a little exploring in Portland, before heading back to Boston.
If I had this trip to do again, and I really hope that I do, I would fly to Bangor, and concentrate my time in the Mid-Coast. The area we covered is quite small, and therefore it makes sense to base in no more than a few towns, and stay several nights in each. There were as many sites that we didn't get around to as things as we actually did, and I'd love to try again.
I highly recommend a summer trip. I'm from the West Coast, and out here it doesn't occur to many people to go to Maine other than for "the color". But summer was gorgeous, and I understand that many of the restaurants we enjoyed close up or cut back in the off-season. The weather, in spite of the couple of days of humidity mentioned here, was mostly fantastic-- moderate temperatures, blue, blue skies, puffy white clouds, the works! (Since we returned the area has had quite a heat wave, so I realize that we should be very appreciative of the great weather we had.) All in all, it was a joy, and I would love to help with anyone else's planning.
Oh, and a big thank you to those who responded to my query about books to read. I read Stern Men and Colony, and each in its own way gave a great sense of the area. And I saw lots of McCloskey references along the way too.
Aug 13th, 2001, 08:32 AM
#5
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Robin, thank you for this report! This is an area of Maine we want to spend more time in, and I'm printing your report for our file. (We spent two weeks in the Kennebunkport area and I've posted a report here; sounds as if it was the same time period you were in Maine--perfect weather!)
