What is Underground Atlanta like?
 

I'm going to be moving to Atlanta in a couple months and am going there shortly to check some more things out. I am curious ... What is Underground Atlanta like? I know it's downtown near the Coca-Cola Museum and has shops/restaurants, but I was wondering if it's worth checking out. What can I expect in terms of safety on a weekday night, weekend day, weekend night? Are there a fair amount of people of various ages mingling around or does it tend to attract a younger crowd? When would be the best time to go there and where should I park? Any specific restaurant recommendation?

I moved away from Atlanta five years ago, but when I left it was a big, fat tourist trap with nothing to appeal to locals. The restaurants were all dependent on tourist trade, which meant that they didn't even try to be good enough to attract return business. Other areas of town--midtown, VA Highlands, Little Five Points--are much more worth your time.

It's been a while since I've been there, but it wasn't worth your time. Many shops failing, a few restaurants, nothing good. I'd skip it.

Underground was totally revamped over the last year. Five new night clubs opened up last weekend, four are run by the same group which operates Masquerade. Underground was given a special "exemption" from the 2:00 a.m. bar closings now being enforced in Buckhead. Underground bars can stay open until 4:00 a.m. Security is supposed to be better and the area is supposed to be safer than Buckhead where there seems to be a killing every month or so. I have not been yet, don't really plant to go, but there supposedly Underground is now a little bigger and better than before, although geared more towards the night life.

DD

I used to work at the Underground while I went to GSU. The shop I worked at closed down - many (many) stores closed down. It isn't really a fun place ... but I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the Coke museum, so take a stroll through the Underground while you are there. It is prettty safe. It is attached to MARTA, so you will more than likely see a panhandler or two (or 10) but they are harmless.
I was there last week in the morning. Bathrooms were clean. MARTA elevator still smells like urine.

Even revitalized again, Underground attracts tourists and conventioneers. Not many locals go. If I were you, I would visit the intown neighborhoods Virginia Highland or East Atlanta before I went to Underground. VH has lots of shops, bars, restaurants...EA is an up and coming back neighborhood- what VH was 20 years ago.

Cher,

if you are in the downtown area, I would suggest you check it out. During the day it would take less than an hour. It has become and evening and weekend hangout. Then you can judge for yourself. I always take visitors who continue to find shops underneath a street interesting :?

To the poster who mentioned the frequent killings in the Buckhead area - What parts of that area are OK and what should be avoided? Aren't there alot of frequented restaurants in that area? Also, isn't it expensive to live around there?

There have been deaths in the early A.M. in Buckhead. Typically when clubs are closing and folks are spilling out into the streets from the bars and clubs. It gets a lot of attention because it's Buckhead. Would venture out and statistically bet that it is still a pretty safe area. I've been in ATL 18 years, frequent Buckhead bars, and have never had any problems...AT ALL!!!

In the past couple of years, several people have been shot at 3 or 4am leaving bars in Buckhead when fights have broken out between drunken patrons.

Buckhead is a neighborhood with homes in the range of 300,000 to millions of $$$. Buckhead has a commercial area with a couple of malls, several strip malls, and a lot of restaurants and bars. In the last 10 years, the number of bars have overtaken the number of restaurants. The people who frequent the bars in Buckhead don't live in Buckhead. The residents have increasingly complained about the noise, traffic, occasional murder, etc. to the city. The city has been trying to get the situation under better control by stopping cruising and increasing police patrols in the wee hours of the morning. The area is as safe as any other major city. I would compare the bar district to New Orleans' French Quarter or New York's Times Square.

I've been considering areas to live that aren't too far. My husband and I are in our mid-40s, no kids; my job will be in Smyrna ... not sure where he will be working yet. We definitely want a house w/2 car garage and basement (not a townhouse or condo), and don't want to be too far out. So we were considering the Vinings or Smyrna area, and some of the outskirting area of Buckhead where the prices are more reasonable. Fulton county taxes are pretty high compared to Cobb county, so you can get a bit more house. Vinings is pretty expensive, but I like the village feel and it seems relatively easy to get into the city compared to going farther out in Cobb County. The Sandy Springs area seemed pretty congested and very busy, however that could have just been the day/time we went through there. Any recommendations?

I haven't been to Atlanta for several years, but here are my thoughts for what they are worth. The undergound had lots of shops - I was thrilled find a cafe' du monde where I could get beignets! I felt completely safe there, but had my wallet stolen, so it was evidently a false sense of security!

I liked eating in Buckhead - Atlanta Fish Market and Buckhead Diner (I think they migh have the same owner?). We went to a nice mall there as well.

I remember being impressed with the diversity of the people of Atlanta. It seemed like a nice place to live (my brother went to college there at Emory Univ).

It seems like every couple of years you hear: go to Underground Atlanta! It's been revitalized!

Then the next year or so: Stay out of Underground Atlanta! It has the highest crime rate in the country!

OK - I think I get the idea on Underground Atlanta. Any recommendations regarding whether Vinings is a good choice to live since working in Smyrna, and still want to be convenient to city for shops, restaurants and other things to do?

Cher,
I like Vinings/Smyrna and would definately consider living there except that it would take me forever to get to work. Since you'll be working in that area, I see no reason for you not to househunt on that side of town. Most of my friends are in their mid-late 30s and love it over there. My husband and I are in Sandy Springs and like it here too--dont' know that the traffic is any worse (or any better!) though.

Do you have a realtor to help you look for a house? If not, I can recommend a couple of people to you.

OWJ

PS I was on jury duty this summer and had lunch at the Underground. It holds no appeal to me--tourist trap and not a very nice one at that. If you decide to go over to World of Coke, then take a look because you're right there anyway but don't go out of your way.

Thanks. I have a recommendation for a realtor from the relocation service I'm working with. I've met and spoken with her and like her and have gotten positive feedback from others that she's worked with ... She's with Jenny Pruitt Realty. My husband and I did some initial looking around a couple months ago to get a feel for the area ... mainly in Cobb County, but also a bit intown (Virginia-Highland, Midtown, Buckhead). I am also trying to find out as much as I can on my own from other various sources.

Do your friends live in Vinings or Smyrna? I like Vinings, but the prices are significantly higher than Smyrna. However, it seems to have a bit more character than Smyrna, but since I was only there a few days, I'd appreciate your thoughts on Smyrna.

I moved from Atlanta a couple of years ago after living there for many years. I lived in Buckhead but if I were to move back to the area I would probably not choose Buckhead again. If you'll be working in Smyrna then Vinings would be a good choice. I have some friends who live in Smyrna and liked it but when I went there it felt extremely suburban and characterless.
The Virginia Highland and Morningside areas are nice and have some charm. But they would not be very close to your work (although you'd be doing a reverse commute).

Cher,
They're pretty much in Vinings but technically in Smyrna. Depending on where you are, there isn't much of a distinction and the two areas run into eachother. Jenny Pruitt has a pretty big presence here so if you like the person you've spoken to then that's great.

Cobb Co., as you've discovered, will save you $ on taxes although I don't think prop. taxes are that bad compared to other places I've lived...

If you have any more questions, ask away!
OWJ

sequess: Thanks for your input. I'm curious, why wouldn't you live in Buckhead again ... It seems like a great area, however I've only been through there briefly so I'm very interested in input from persons that have lived there.

OneWanderingJew: Thank you as well. I really liked the Vir-Highland and Morningstar areas, especially because we would be closer to restaurants, shops and things to do. However, I was a bit concerned that on a day-to-day basis for commuting to work, it seemed a bit far. I'm coming from Rochester, NY where it doesn't take much longer than 20 minutes to get anywhere. So the commuting time is very high on my list of concerns on where to live. That's why I'm leaning towards Vinings. It's obviously close to my job in Smyrna, but also would seem to be convenient to get into the city for other activities. However, the home prices are very, very high compared to Rochester and compared to what I would find in Smyrna and Marietta ... But it seems that it may be worth it by making it easier to get into Atlanta proper itself (than from outer areas in Cobb country). This is important to us because we really want to enjoy all Atlanta has to offer, rather than just hang out at our house (since we don't have kids and like to go to restaurants and do other things). I also want some place that's relatively easy to get to the airport ... For travel, of course!

I live in Vinings - the "real" Vinings. Much of Smyrna, which is the area across I-285 from Vinings, has been redeveloped in the last 5 years or so. Many developers built new subdivisions (tearing down old neighborhoods of small ranches on relatively large lots built in the 50s and 60s) in Smyrna and named them "Vinings" something to attract buyers. Real estate agents have also helpd the sprawl of the "Vinings" name. Some of my neighbors refer to those areas "Smynings", "Nouveau Vinings", "New Vinings", you get the idea.

The number of restaurants and shops will greatly increase in Smryna over the next few years because of demand from the new residents. Also, the town of Smyrna has been aggressive in seeking redevelopment. Check out the "town square" area of downtown Smyrna next to the gov't buildings in Smyrna. I think Smyrna will see more of that sort of development.

The "real" Vinings is actually pretty small. Many apartments and condos have been built in the last 5 years. A recent article in the Atlanta newspaper claimed that Vinings have the highest concentration of single females in the city. Looking around the shops and restaurants, I do think the area is hot for single, young women in their 20s. I am guessing that the males will start moving in soon.

The single family homes in Vinings are always in demand because we are close to Buckhead and downtown but we pay Cobb County taxes (about 1/3 of what we would pay if we lived inthe City of Atlanta). We are also close to several of the popular private schools.

Numerous Vinings homes, particularly the 1970s contemporary-style ones, are being knocked down for new homes. Those older homes are basically selling as lots in the 400,000 range (700,000 if it is on the Chattahoochee River).

You can get a lot more house, and much newer, for your money in Smyrna.

padams421: Thank you so much for the info. I was curious, is there much of an issue with flooding in the Vinings area with the river and so many creeks and tributories running through it? Any areas to avoid for flooding? What about being too close to the train tracks ... is there much of an issue with train noise?

Underground Atlanta: It's like, dangerous. Two people were shot there within 12 days. New Year's Eve a celebrant blocks away fired a gunshot into the air. Darned if the bullet didn't drop. A week and one-half later another guest dropped his pistol while greeting (high-fiving) a friend. The gun must have been heavy. The bullet grazed a visitor.

Underground is also the oldest white elephant in Atlanta. Kept afloat for decades to reward favored individuals with a piece of the action. Could never make it without subsidies and favors. No local, other than the downtown neighbors, ever goes more than once a decade. It's a tourist trap.

The train runs through the downtown area of Vinings, but it's rather charming. If you want to avoid floods buy away from the river. Far away. Given prevailing real estate prices, that's not a problem for middle-class buyers. Much of Vinings is elevated and convenient to Buckhead, I-285 and I-75, and of course, Smyrna. Vinings is considered toney.

Great that you have a Jenny Pruitt agent!
I'm an agent there too!
I love Vinings. You will too.

The Underground is OK, but I agree with the other posters that V. Highlands is a better way to spend and afternoon. Go to Piedmont Park and have a picnic.

As long as you are in Vinings, go to Canoe for brunch and get a table outside. So pretty and the food is excellent.
Allie

If the remnants of a hurricane move through Atlanta, then the Chattahoochee River will overflow in the Vinings area. In the 10 years, I have lived in Vinings, it has happened 3 times. Only the houses right on the river flood. The streets that fllod are Cochise Drive (just the lower half, part of the street is way up a hill), Farmington Drive (again, just the part along the river), and Paces Ferry Place. We are talking about 30-40 homes. The rest of Vinings is elevated. If it floods at my house, Noah had better be building the second ark because most of Atlanta would be underwater.

I have a creek (runs from Paces Lake to the 'Hootch) at the bottom of the hill behind my house. When we had the successive hurricanes come through last summer, the creek rose 10 feet. The previous owner said the creek had never been that high so that means it was a 20 year record. The hilly terrain is such that the creek doesn't flood any homes. It is only where Vinings flattens out at the river does it flood.

As for the train, the CSX line runs through Vinings. The closer youlive to the tracks, the more train noise you will here. I never notice the train whistles during the day. Most Vinings residents will say that they don't really notice the train noise after they have been here a little while. I have heard the train the most when my children were babies, and I would be upin the middle of the night with them, when it would otherwise be very quiet. I personally would not live with the tracks in my backyard because I have young children but some people do.

BTW, Vinings attracts all ages. There are a lot of families like us. In Cobb County, you don't pay the school portion of the property taxes after a certain age (I think it is 62) so we have a lot of empty nesters and retirees. Many of my neighbors are in the real estate business. They live here because they know it's a great deal (relatively speaking as compared to Buckhead and the city of Atlanta).

Dine at Canoe. Another local dining favorite is the Old Vinings Inn.

Thanks for all the great information. We're going to try to focus our home search initially in the Vinings/Smyrna area. I really like the village feel and it will be good for commuting to my job in Smyrna. We did eat at both Canoes and Vinings Inn when we visited (great meals), as well as the Mexican restaurant (can't recall the name).

LaPaz is the mexican restaurant. Next time, try the River Room on Northside Parkway in the Post Riverside complex and Blue Ridge Grill at West Paces Ferry Rd. and Northside Parkway (both are 3 minutes from Vinings).

Since moving to Atlanta, I have lived in Sandy Springs, Midtown, Highlands and now Marietta (East Cobb County just outside Vinings). Sandy Springs traffic is not horrible. I actually find my area of Cobb to be worse than Sandy Springs. I also miss the amenities that Sandy Springs has to offer that Vinings nor Marietta has. Vings offers more than Marietta but comes at a higher price for housing and less land. However I have 3 dogs and I wanted a larger yard and a larger house so I moved just a bit further out (Post Oak Tritt Rd area).

You can not go wrong with any of these areas but if you look to live in Fulton County, you will pay greatly in taxes. I know my condo in Sandy Springs costs me far more than my house in Cobb and my house is more expensive (go figure).

Underground is a rip. Revitalized or not, it is a rip. Maybe go one day but that will be enough for you. It is not anymore dangerous than any other place in a large city. People got shot leaving the Peach Bowl at the Georgia Dome as well. You move to a city, you should expect crime. It kind of goes with the territory.

Don't mean to be disagreeable, but Underground IS more dangerous than many areas of Atlanta. It's deep downtown and a magnet for young people who like to drink and, in some cases, carry guns to prove their mettle. It's south of the prime hotel and business district and the immediate vicinity is not as well policed as the prime area, even though there's a mini police precinct in Underground. Matter of fact, the high-fiving gun dropper escaped after discharging his gun. And, no one was reported shot leaving the Peach Bowl New Year's eve. Instead, a young lady was shot in her seat in the Dome as she watched the game-another bullet that, when fired into the air, magically fell.
Second padams recommendation to try Blue Ridge Grill. High end cabin theme done right. And, down the street (N'Side Pkwy) try Panos and Paul's. An Atlanta institution and the cornerstone of a culinary dynasty-Buckhead Life Restaurants.
Last, we attended an outdoor party on Farmington, Vinings in late October weeks after 2 hurricanes. The high water mark at this house on the river, w/ an acre backyard, was marked in the treetops 12 feet above the normal backyard ground. Impressive.

Wrong. I girl was shot in her seat and someone else was shot leaving the game. Also there was a person shot leaving a Falcon's game not to long ago either. Again I disagree with you about it being dangerous, however we will have to agree to disagree.

Beachdreams. Curious reply of yours. The January 5, 2005 Atlanta Journal/Constitution features an article on page B. 2 by Saheed Ahmed (available from AJC.com stacks). He describes the shooting I described above, which took place during the 12-31-04 game, and writes that it was the second shooting at Peachbowls, the first being three years earlier. Perhaps your victim was straggling out of the New Year's eve game a week later, or it was not reported. Curious also that you would inject a shooting at a Falcon game, same stadium, to support your feeling that the area is safer than I described. Dream on.

You know, since it IS Underground Atlanta it's worth a trip, but go in the daytime.

Underground was a very hip and happening place -- in the early 70s -- but the last time I was there (about 4 years ago) it was more or less an underground shopping mall.

It's a pity they can't come up with to do with the place -- it's a part of history in a city which is not usually very kind to their history.

Gosh, all this talk of underground Atlanta...it has me waxing and waning for Lester Maddox ax handles and Danté's Down the Hatch. Thems were the daze.

TD: Dante's left for Buckhead, surviving (along w/ the crocodiles) a fire in 2001. Lester Maddox left us in 2004. Don't know whether he felt more heat as a governor or now. Did I meet you at Ruby Red's?

It is amazing thing what one learns on the internet. I actually met Lester one night. But I still passed on that ax handle. Danté's still kicking? The boat and all?

I don't believe I went to Ruby Red's. One should go to Underground (with a bullet-proof vest, of course) just to remember when Americans actually had original tourist traps, not all this phony stuff. Disney could never have invented or imagined Underground. Teehehehehe.

Dante's is in Buckhead for the moment. I read recently in the Atlanta Business Chronicle that he is trying to sell the property to developers. It sounded like he will retire when the property sells.

Dante's is a fondue restaurant that has been in Atlanta for many years. First at Underground and then later in Buckhead. The inside of the restaurant looks like a ship in the pirate era. There are "moats" in the restaurant with real alligators in them.

beachdreams: You mentioned that you thought Sandy Springs offered more than Vinings or Marietta. Can you be a bit more specific? How would the commute into Smyrna be (to near Windy Hill and Cobb Pkwy)? Thanks.

Cher:
I live and maintain my office in Sandy Springs. It's much, much bigger than Vinings. Parts are on the same river, the Chattahoochee. It features a commercial corridor, principally along Roswell Road, on which one can find every type of commercial establishment, some very, very good. Houses principally range from $200,000 older ranches to 40 times that.
We currently pay taxes as residents of "unincorporated" Fulton County, and, they are very high, compared to the level of services we receive and those levied against residents of surrounding counties. That all may change, as Sandy Springs likely will become an incorporated municipality in the next few years.
It's only a 5-10 minute drive from Roswell Road along I-285 and I-75 to your office if there is no traffic. In traffic-significantly longer. And, Roswell Road is very congested during rush periods. We love our neighborhood, but, if I worked in Smyrna, I'd live in Vinings. Welcome to Atlanta.

Thanks to everyone for the information!