We just returned from our fourth trip to Alaska
 

And we are already planning our fifth visit in July/August 2004
Thank you to those who gave us some ideas on places to stay.

This time we returned to Valdez for more hiking and to Homer for bear watching and hiking.
We also stayed at the Sheep Mt Lodge (recommended by Patrick) which is a great place to stay on Glenn Highway. We did some hiking near the lodge and took a guided glacier hike to Matanuska Glacier.

Nome was a new place for us. We did even more hiking there, wildlife was plentiful, people friendly and helpful

The weather was wonderful with blue sky, sunshine and breeze. We had rain only twice, when we arrived in Nome and then on our way from Homer to Anchorage.

Sounds like a great trip.

We would like to go back for a second trip and skip things like Denali and do some different things.

Share your details on your bear watching trip, please.

Connie, my husband and I always recommend bear watching trip to our friends. It is definietly one of the most unforgettable experiences during which you learn about these amazing animals and how to respect their personal space, how to behave around them, how to enjoy seeing them in their own environment. If you decide to go but before you settle on a specific company to go with I suggest to do your research. Ask about saftey record of the plane and a pilot, how many years is a guide in business, what other business they are involved in (I would stay away from those who do also fishing, hunting, hiking, birding, white water rafting and some other things, the best is to find a company that does exclusively bear watching), how long is a trip and how many hours you will be actually watching bears, where are you going to go, is your guide going to be with you all the time or a pilot/guide just drop you off and you will be in line on a platform, how large is a group, how many other groups are going to be in that area, do they suupply hip boots, when do you have to put your deposit and how much, do they give refund (100% of deposit)if there is no trip due to a weather.

Here is what we wrote in our journal about our first bear watching trip in 2001. We returned for bear watching in 2002 and 2003. Please keep in mind that this is not a trip report. This is our personal journal. I removed names as I do not intend to advertise or endorse the company we use.


Then came the most exciting day of the whole trip. xxx Air Service flew us it a float plane to a 900 ft. Lake in the Katmai National Park. There were 9 of us and x, the pilot, and xx, the guide/naturalist. They had been in an IMAX film about bears. We had a dry landing and walked across the tundra to a bluff about 50 yards from the joining of the Kenai and Moraine Rivers. We had seen more than 20 bears in that river on the flight in and we were walking right to them. We watched from that vantage point and took some long lens shots, then moved down to the bank of the river to where the bears had trampled down a bunch of the tall grass and willow bushes.

By now we could recognize the bears that x and x had named: Scarface, Grandpa, Betty, Tom Thumb and, yes, they do have personalities and different looks. As Scarface would walk up or down the stream, the other bears would move slowly and reluctantly out of the way while others quickly disappeared into the willow bushes. Grandpa waited patiently while Scarface fished and when Scarface moved away, Grandpa moved in. We were within 20 yard of Scarface and he never paid any attention to us.

The bears fish by standing in the stream and as the fish move up the river to spawn, they pick out a fish and jump into the water, ducking their head under water and trying to catch the fish in their mouths. It is hard to see whether they use their claws during the catch. But if they catch one, they hold the fish in their mouths until they wade ashore, put the fish on a rock or rocks and hold it with their claws while they strip the meat away by pulling it off the fish, they seem to eat the bones because we could hear the crushing of the bones as they eat fish. When the bear is done, the birds get the remains.

The bear cubs are poor fishermen. They wade into the water like mama bear but they don?t seem to get the idea of putting their heads under water to catch the fish with their mouth. After a while, I felt like putting on a wetsuit and showing them how. Mama bear does teach them how to fight for fish, she makes the cubs fight her for the fish she catches for them. Cubs stay with the mother for three years before they go off for themselves.

The most exciting bear watching event was watching a mama bear and three cubs. The four of them crossed the river on our extreme right. Mama bear continued on down the river and the three cubs got up on the bank and started walking down the path that our group was on. Ken told us to be very quiet and back off the path so the cubs could get by, which we did. Mama continued in the water about 50 yards below us on our left. Meanwhile the cubs came down the path to about 15 or 20 feet from us and stopped. They had seen us and they crouch in the willow shrubs. Every once in a while one would stand upon his or her hind feet and peer at us over the willows, then a little later another one would stick a head up and smell. Then two together would stand up. Meanwhile mama walked ashore and disappeared into the shrub. We caught a glimpse of her hurrying along about twenty yards in back of us hurrying to her cubs. They all joined up and followed mama across the river and disappeared into the shrub on the other side.

Those six hours in the field of bear watching were the most exciting and interesting experience we have had in our last seven years of vacations and that includes our safari in Kenya and two-week long trip in Galapagos Islands. Even flying back to Homer was exciting and unique. Ken flew the plane around Mount Augustine, a volcano that was letting off a little bit of steam but last erupted in May 1931. More great photo opportunities.

One correction. The Mt. Augustine most recent eruption took place in March 1986

For Youngblood

ttt

I took a trip to Alaska a few years ago and I can't figure out why someone would keep going back. There are mts, rivers and bears in all of the western states in the US. Alaska is over-priced and they don't like tourists from the lower 48 unless they have lots of cash to throw at them. They laugh at tourists who cave into their little side show expeditions.

WEMR: I'm sorry you have such a poor opinion of Alaska but that has not been my experience. In three separate trips, I have never experienced a single instance of resentment or rudeness. To the contrary, everyone I have met there, either in passing or for longer periods have been friendly and welcoming.

I agree Alaska is a little pricier than the lower 48 but, given the long distances even basic necessities must be shipped, I considered that justified and acceptable. It seems to me costs are about on a par with Hawaii which also has to ship most commodities long distances.


Regarding the scenery, I have lived in the western US the bulk of my life, including Utah, California, and Colorado and I agree, there are many wonderful scenic places to visit thoughout the west. Nevertheless, I have never seen anywhere that even remotely begins to compare to Alaska for the quantity, quality, and magnitude of its scenic variety.

I am looking forward with barely suppressed anticipation to my fourth trip next summer.

ignore the sour troll

Not to be another sour troll, but I kind of hated Alaska. It is gorgeous to look at - but I'm not the type to take a float plane to a far off lake to go hiking in the woods.

I do think it's the perfect place for hikers, fisherman, adventure seekers and really active outdoorsy types. That's just not me.

I took a cruise a few weeks ago and was sadly disappointed in each of the ports. The "civilization" part of the state was filled with tourist shops selling all the same trinkets and lots of sad folks who were obviously hitting the ripple. There's nothing pretty about public intoxication and substance abuse.

I think Alaska is one of those places that you either love or hate. I'm just really glad we got Hawaii when we added Alaska to the U.S.

Wow! I thought Wildflower was a super-woman undertaking a big Alaska trip right before her big move with cats to Asheville. Wonder why this was topped now?
Good luck, Wildflower!

PS - I've been to Alaska twice...both times in winter (Nov. and Feb.) I don't know if I'd enjoy summer crowds and flies, but it was absolutely amazing!

I have also been to Alaska four times and love it, but am mystified why a couch potato type would even think about taking the trip?

I have hiked, fished, taken float plane trip, camped etc. I love parking by the highway and seeing a beluga whale and baby just out in the "arm", seeing dall's sheep on the cliffs, orca pods swimming beside the ferry. It is amazing place, but if you just get off the boat for an hour in Ketchikan you will probably be disappointed. (Ketchikan IMO is just a boring blue collar logging type town--with a lot of bars) but if you do go there go out to the totem park. I went during an impressive downpour and it is one of my "fun" memories of that place (since I don't see storms like that very often).

Hi Gracie
I brought this old post and another one to the top for someone who asked about bear watching and here on this very board are many posts already on this topic. Wasn't this you, Gracie, who said it 'would be helpful to do a search on this forum on your general topic or destination before posting an open-ended question on this board?' I agree with you.

I'm glad I asked the question because when I scanned it all I saw was the troll comments and couldn't figure out why it was had been topped. I missed the bear strand all together.
Thanks for letting us know the reason for the topping. You are right - that post is fascinating!

Yes, Gracie. You are so right! All people have to do is to search on this forum by typing 'bear watching.' How is your Greece trip planning coming?

I'd like to do an Italy/Greece combo trip and have been researching Italy more right now. (Haven't you seen my "where to go in Italy" posts? That's supposed to be a joke!)

If I had the time right now I'd be tempted by the deals being for the Olympics. I heard this weekend that tickets are available for virtually every event including opening and closing ceremonies. How awesome would it be to be there!

ttt for Sans

ttt for FLtraveler

for Javier