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Washington D.C. for a Week; Or the Best $22 Value I've Ever Received Traveling

Washington D.C. for a Week; Or the Best $22 Value I've Ever Received Traveling

Old Mar 11th, 2007, 07:00 AM
  #41  
JJ5
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Thank you too. I've tried to add the photos at home, and no luck. What I need to do is add a photolink "place" that I create. Oh, if only I had more time here!
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Old Mar 11th, 2007, 06:37 PM
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Most of our friends, especially the ones with children, come to Washington DC with a checklist of museums, monuments, and neighborhoods to see. Not often do they come with a “synopsis” of the city. I guess, with the abundance of free museums, they’ve come with an outlook akin to a detail-oriented magnifying-glass instead of a wide-view lens of a pair of binoculars a tourist would use for, let’s say, the Grand Canyons of Arizona. I would do the same thing, too.

But on many occasions, usually towards the end of their stay and while sitting in the calm but unkempt backyard of our suburban home, our guests would come to see – and appreciate – Washington DC as a myth.

We both know myth has many meanings. We mean “myth” neither in its derogatory sense as in “The innocence of the XYZ age is a myth” nor its delusionary undertones as in “The tooth fairy is a myth.” No, I don’t associate Washington DC with falsehood – despite the chicanery of some of its past and present residents - but the myth of a relatively fledgling country delineating its aspirations and ideals. Like the Aesop’s fables or the Greek myths of our children or grandchildren, Washington DC was created to be a visual story that would convey certain truths in the symbols of architecture, landscape and urban planning.

For instance, all of our visitors know that no building can be higher than the Capitol and that Rosslyn, on the other side of the Potomac, is where the skyscrapers are. They all agree that it makes DC more refreshing, more airy, but what they don’t know is that the restriction was imposed to heighten – both figuratively and architecturally speaking – the symbolic relationship between the Capitol, White House and Washington Monument or, as our founding fathers would say it: the ideals of law, order and harmony. Interesting to debate: the Supreme Court is behind the Capitol: is it a shadow or a conscience?

The choice of façade for a government building was also deliberate. We can’t have a full-scale Romanesque or Gothic edifice. Instead, the planners opted for a Classical style with its cornices and columns to evoke the democratic model of Athenian Greece.

The city is rationally partitioned in quadrants. Do you remember standing at the Lincoln Memorial and staring ahead at the Washington Monument and seeing the Capitol at the farthest end? Well, everything in front of the Capitol is the Northern half and at the back is the Southern half. Then, everything to your left is the Western part and everything to your right is your Eastern part. So if you draw an X- and Y-axes right through the Capitol’s dome – which will have the Cartesian coordinates of (0,0) – then you have the quadrants SW, SE, NE and NW. Tourists usually just gravitate around the NW section and don’t venture farther than the fringes of SE, SW and NE which would explain why they never see the diversity so oft-mentioned about Washington DC.

Streets are simply named after states, important figures, numbers and letters and the Metro is named after colors. We can’t have a Duke or King Street like in Old Town Alexandria or such fanciful names as Runnymede and Tramps Alley. There is a conscious effort for gravitas in the naming of things.

And speaking of funny names, did you know that at the Foggy Bottom metro (and “bottom” means swamp or bog, not “derriere”) which you had Ken check out, you’ll find the George Washington University hospital just right outside? Not to be confused with Georgetown University Hospital (we get the Georges mixed up constantly), GWU was where Reagan was admitted after the attempted assassination. Here, he reportedly told Nancy, “Honey, I forgot to duck.”

Among other things, geographic landforms like hills and the Potomac and construction materials like marble and granite were harnessed to put forth a proposition: that this is an Enlightened City raised from the swamps and ready to assume its position in the world. And of course, the visual references to other famous cities in the world, especially European cities, are glaring.

Take the starburst design of some intersections. Crossing the circles as a pedestrian or driving through them reminds me of the melee at the Coliseum and Place de l’Etoile. Our French visitors in particular often remark that the Constitution and Independence Avenues feel like the Champs-Elysees. And by the way, they’re the ones least impressed too with the White House. I used to feel that it’s a waste of time to procure WH tickets for European guests because during the tour, the guide would say “This is an ormolu clock from…” or “This chair in the Rococo style was…” and I could imagine my friends thinking, “Alors, it’s just like what we have chez nous.” For them, the White House is surprisingly rustic and I tease them, saying, we don’t have kings and queens here. The leaders are only temporary rulers or servants, depending on how you want to look at it, and thus can’t be deified with precious gold-coated and diamond-encrusted possessions. Capital idea, isn’t it?

Your comment about DC’s non-knowledge usage is very astute, too. We can’t have neon signs (too garish) and arches (too imperialistic), not so much because of zoning restrictions but because of our view of power. A lobbying firm for instance can’t flaunt its importance because we always view power as corrupting and absolute power as corrupting absolutely. Another case: the Washington Post flagship is so bland compared to the Chicago Tribune Tower that it’s easy to relish the incongruence of two scrappy reporters bringing down the Nixon government.

You must also have passed by the offices of World Bank and IMF a number of times but didn’t recognize them. They’re near the Farragut West metro. Because of security concerns arising when those eco-warriors and their ilk stage their protests, marches or whatever, there is much prudence in keeping buildings nondescript. Thus, your typical Joe standing outside building X wouldn’t know what is inside. But as this is DC, only the people in the know (i.e., the very people to whom the data is pertinent) would know.

The same thing goes for the Archives. Many residents probably haven’t been inside. I am guilty too of rushing our guests through the Archives. It has never been a terminus, only a stop along the way. So, we miss out on an opportunity for civic discussion. But I agree with you; we do need a re-assessment of this pervasive assumption of the wrong interpretation of the separation of the church and state. Perhaps bringing people to see those parchments is the best way to show them the truth and reality without resulting to partisan clichés. My only (feeble) excuse for oversight is when I was a teenager, I babysat for a curator of the Archives and I thought them staid and their occupations boring. And guess what I have become…lol.

In closing, I think JJ5, many cities show the different personalities of our country -- no, I should more precisely say, many cities show the MULTI-faceted personality of America because we really only have one, with varying moods. Cities like New York City, your Chicago, Los Angeles, New Orleans, Savannah, and Albuquerque show one side of the personality better or worse than other cities. There’s a soupcon of craziness here or conventionality there or a streak of conservatism here or liberalism there. But there’s not really one city we can call a “bastion” of just one monolithic value.

However, I think I can say this: there is only one city designed and constructed explicitly to showcase the nation’s CHARACTER as the founding fathers had envisioned. This is the myth of Washington DC. The concrete, living-space manifestation of our democracy, our philosophy, this great experiment in governing with the people, by the people, and for the people, is spread-out like a banquet in our capital to those who come and visit -- if they only choose to partake in the vision.
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Old Mar 12th, 2007, 06:24 AM
  #43  
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Thank you for your comments, packmule. Sincere thanks, not only for your native view and knowledge of practical foundational reasons for the things I saw, but also for the addition of your multi-layered and thoughtful overview on this "myth".

It has been on my mind.

And I did notice the World Bank/IMF as we went building "wandering" that last morning- looking for a sit down breakfast. Best that they are exactly AS they are- rather incognito.

Also I have a sister who NEVER travels. Her husband and her three sons go on drive trips or camping without her- have for years. But she has decided to go with them to D.C. this summer, after reading my post here. Great surprise to me!

Her oldest son is a college freshman and a history major who writes and has position on the State Univ. paper he attends, full scholarship. So I know that they will enjoy, enjoy.

I'll be back with my son or/and grandsons too. And more time for me at the Library of Congress, Archives and other areas I have not yet seen, for sure.

This city speaks to my more serious, motivational, and idealistic side. Qualities along with physical labor appreciation, work ethic- are found underneath a good scratch on most any Chicagoan.

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Old Mar 12th, 2007, 02:16 PM
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Many thanks, packmule, for your eloquence. Gravitas accepted; my nine years here have been proud ones, and you captured why. And thanks, JJ5, for revealing that Washington speaks to your idealistic side. So many of us who live here agree with you. It's a special place to live.
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Old May 18th, 2007, 12:45 PM
  #45  
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Putting this up ttt for SallyJ.
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Old May 19th, 2007, 08:34 PM
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This is a great trip report and a great thread.

By the way, I am a licensed tour guide.

You came just before the annual running of the tourists, for which the unofficial commencement date is March 15th. That is generally the time when I notice tourists have once again invaded the Metro.

From the week before the Cherry Blossom Festival til mid June DC is innundated with kids from all over the US. No one planning their own trip wants to be here then.

So, with all the vagaries of the weather, you chose an excellent time to come. I do tell those without children to come in fall. Yes, we get adult groups then, but it is nothing like spring.

You seem to have hit all the usual highlights and then some. Lots of school groups arrange to lay wreaths at the Tomb of the Unknowns. Sometimes it is one wreath laying after another. I always wonder what they do with all those wreaths at the end of the day. It is a very meaningful ritual for the kids, although a total hassle for guides (We have to get the wreath layers there early at a prearranged time, creating another time pressure on their schedule). While the wreath layers are being given instructions, the guides generally take the rest of the group to look at the Challenger/Discovery Memorials and the mast of the battleship Maine (adjacent to the Tomb).

I do agree that anyone who has seen numerous European castles would not be the least bit impressed with the White House. Mostly, you can only go in with prearranged groups these days. Mostly the WH is now just a photo stop on the Pennsylvania Ave. side.
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Old May 20th, 2007, 05:36 AM
  #47  
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FauxSteMarie, we actually asked about the wreaths, because they were so beautiful and yes, you are right- they do not stay at the Tomb of the Unknowns more than a few hours.

Some are put into the building adjacent- with all the Memorial pictures of entombment from past eras, but only for a short time as well. They are taken out of the area within just a day or two.

We were lucky enough to be included in a 10 minute "lesson" to accompany a foursome of ROTC students from a small school who performed the last wreath ceremony we witnessed. There's quite a bit to doing that role, and it was extremely interesting to see how nervous some of the people get, really to the point of shaking. I felt for them, because they wanted to be just "perfect" as the guards are. They are perfect.

I think your advice to travel in the off season is tops for nearly everyplace in the world, not just D.C.
I do, and find that you have quality time for the most often visited spots, yet also much more native to tourist exchange of conversation and real pithy information and experience when you do. I have been to the same places during the "on" season and it is like an entirely different location. One in which I never seem to get any of the essence, as I did so vividly on this D.C. trip.

I will return to D.C. with my grandsons and it will not be more than 3 years- next time we will try Fall.

And thank you for your help before I left, as well.
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Old May 20th, 2007, 11:14 AM
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And I am always glad to help. I sometimes see several wreath layings when I am there with the students. They do one after the other. The kids really enjoy the wreath layings, so sometimes I forego that commentary about nearby sites and let them stay there. Whatever they really want, I do. It is important that each and every kid on my tours has a good time. Some of the chaperones are, however, the ones impossible to satisfy. They forget that it is a tour for the kids and get dissatisfied with all the rapid moving about to "see everything". I try to do what I can to keep everyone happy on my bus, but sometimes that is impossible. No matter what you do, some adults are just permanently dissatisfied, but the kids always have a blast--which is why the kid tours are more fun than dealing with all the complaints on senior tours.
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Old Jun 9th, 2007, 05:31 AM
  #49  
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To the top for Melissa5.
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Old Jun 10th, 2007, 11:15 PM
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JJ5: Thanks so much for bouncing this wonderful long trip report for me to read. I just finished reading Fodors Guidebook for Washington DC. While it is well organized, it is terribly dry, and now I want to hear some very subjective and more personal reports of people's trips! I just printed this out. Looks entertaining. I'll be back with questions if you're still hanging around here! Appreciate the help.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 06:46 AM
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Anytime. I have been to a long, long list of American cities of any size- and I think D.C. has and will remain one of the best for memories and a feeling of "looseness/relaxation" when there- as the logistics are so, so easy as long as you are a walker.

I definitely will take my grandsons there, possibly with my daughter too, when the kids are about 3 or 4 years older than they are now.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 07:09 AM
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Wow, JJ5 you went beyond the call of duty on this report of DC. But this is the kind of report I expected, but seldom see, when I started going to Fodor's in January 2006.

We were also first time tourists in DC from 5/15-21 and found the people of DC very helpful. Your story about the Metro employee was identical to ours.

Also enjoyed walking in the Georgetown area and getting suggestions from shop employees on where to eat. Could not go wrong with Kinkeads, Sea Catch & Pizzeria Paradiso.

Once again thanks for giving me some great moments to compare notes on your trip.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 10:52 AM
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JJ5: I read your whole trip report last night and it was terrific! Love your sense of humor. Also your husband's tendency to wander off behind the scenes where nobody is supposed to go, sounds just like my husband. Also you mentioned your husband asking so many questions he was making the people who worked in one of those places nervous (was it the national archives? I forget). That sounds like my husband also! It's funny to hear stories that have a familiar ring! Isn't that why we keep them around, to make life interesting? Plus we love them!

Your explanation of what is was like to stay at the Quincy area, and the buildings being confusing and looking kinda the same, and not knowing where to find things or even where is the front of the building...that is the kind of VERY USEFUL personal reaction I really am looking for on-line. Also someone else said the Quincy used to be the Lincoln Suites which was extremely helpful as that is in my guidebook so now I know where the Quincy area is.

Now, I am a person who so easily gets lost and confused...I even get lost in my own house sometimes. That is one of the reasons I research and plan trips, it helps so much. So...for me, the area you stayed at would be extra confusing. I think I would do better staying in an area like Alexandria, or else someplace like Woodley Park area, Dupont Circle, or near Adams Morgan.

I keep posting a similar question and it keeps disappearing! What the heck! I can't understand where it is going. I am trying to ask people to tell me what is their most favorite and least favorite area to stay in Washington DC area, and why, and where exactly do they mean (name some streets or sites near the area.) Sometimes if people just say, NE, for example, I'm not sure where that is.

Anyway I hope my question doesn't disappear again...

packmule: Your views and info on DC are wonderfully insightful! Thanks for posting. Maybe you will still be on the forums when I am posting my questions. I sure would appreciate any help.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 11:02 AM
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Melissa, it's not disappearing. Click on your name, and you will find the posting.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 11:58 AM
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MikeT: OH, yes, my posts did indeed disappear for a time, I'm telling you, from my computer. I'm an avid researcher and usually read down so far in the posts that I end up seeing stuff that is 2 years old...yet my 2 posts on Washington DC weren't there! If you click on my name you'll see I'm not new here. I'm telling you they DID disappear, at least on my computer, for a time!

But you are right about one thing. I could have clicked on my name. I didn't do that because I figured that I must have accidentally written out my post and forgotten to press the button for "Post my Reply", in which case the post would be gone forever. (I have done that before). So since I didn't see either of my posts I figured I must have goofed. I didn't click on my name since I thought those posts just aren't here and I will have to be more careful and post a new one.

Anyway let's get back to discussing Washington DC, an exciting city, instead of arguing about posting. I am convinced that my posts disappeared from my computer...you are convinced they did not. As my old Dad used to say, let us agree to disagree.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 12:00 PM
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JJ5: Sorry, no more squabbling between fodorites on your gorgeous trip report! I do nominate your trip report as the most entertaining trip report on the Washington DC forum.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 12:02 PM
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JJ5: I didn't say that right. I meant no more squabbling under your post. I didn't mean to imply that anyone was squabbling about any subjects in your trip report. I think we're all agreed your trip report has been a joy to read, and I love your sense of humor. I gotta tell you that I never wanted to visit Chicago until I read your Washington DC report. Now it makes me want to check out Chicago and see what Chicagoans are like!
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 12:05 AM
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JJ5: I posted a few questions for you on my post, "Washington DC: 1st Family Trip for 5 nights: MIND-BOGGLED! Help". If you would be so kind as to help me out I'd much appreciate your help. Thanks for being so thoughtful as to pop your entertaining, humorous, and informative trip report to the top of the forum for me!

You might have to click on my name to find my post which I mentioned above. I think it keeps going to the USA forums instead of the Washington DC forums for some reason. If you have the time to answer, thanks very much.
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Old Jun 19th, 2007, 10:54 AM
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There is no such thing as a Washington DC forum. Look at the left of the page right now -- at the top you see "united states" as the name of the forum, right? You will never see a page with "Washington DC Forum" at the top, and on the front page of Fodors whenyou select a forum, you will never see a choice of "washington DC" for a forum selection (nor any other state, for that matter).
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Old Jun 30th, 2007, 02:56 PM
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JJ5: Now that some months have passed since your trip, I am interested to hear which meals and which cafes or restaurants stand out in your mind as the most memorable, for you? I am making a list of cafes, eateries, restaurants, coffee houses, to take with me. I organize it by area, and we take it with us, then we go browsing through the area, until we run into some of the places on our list. It is a really fun way to find good food for good prices.

I would like to hear about your favorites, the ones which really still stand out in your mind.

For example, for me, I still dream about the fantastic Indian food I had in New Zealand in February...a place where they import and gring their own spices...from the outside it doesn't look touristy at all, so I would never have eaten there if someone very experienced hadn't recommended it. I just love the food!

Your trip report is one of the most interesting reads on the fodors web-site for the Washington DC area. Thanks for sharing.
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