Wandering around NYC for a week
 

So this will be a different trip report. I have no idea if any of this will ever be helpful to anyone, but here goes.

Inspired by The Best Trip Report Ever on this forum, I decided to use the bus as my primary means of transportation. I like the subways but hate them in summer. The hottest I've been was on a subway platform in July - and I'm from the south. I've walked from the 90s to Central Park South in 103 degree temps. I'd rather take taxis as much as possible, but I decided that if edeevee could navigate the city via bus on her first trip here with mama, then I could too! Here's the link to her wonderful report. It may be the most valuable part of my trip report - ;) http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...-on-fodors.cfm

Where I stayed - in a wonderful UWS apartment. This isn't going to help most readers because short-term apartment rentals are no longer legal in NYC. If you want access to a kitchen, there are hotel options with kitchens or kitchenettes. Those are handy if you plan to cook. I don't in NYC. The most I may do is zap something in the microwave and/or scramble eggs. I do love having access to a fridge and microwave but that's possible in many hotels.

I'm very lucky because 20 years ago a good friend moved up to the city. The company moved her furniture and belongings but I drove up with the fragile stuff and the dog. While she immediately went to work, I spent a week setting up the apartment and teaching a country dog how to become a city dog. At lunch we'd meet at the carpet store or other, pick out something new for the apartment and the newly purchased item would usually beat me (via delivery) back to the apartment. It was fun setting up a new apartment without having to pay for any of it. :-) Fast forward, my friend fell in love, moved from the Times Square area to the UWS. It was great visiting and staying in the 2nd bedroom, until the baby came. Back to staying in hotel rooms until a few years ago when we realized that a great solution was for me to visit while they went on trips - free lodging for me and someone to love and dote on their pups while they are gone. So I'm lucky enough to call a gorgeous apartment I've visited for more than a dozen years "home" while I'm in the city. And so back home I go.

Getting to the city - I procrastinated and waited so late I was worried about the cost of my ticket. I lucked out - my ticket, purchased less than a month ahead = $270.

Getting into the city - Grab a cab at the airport. I have been spoiled by car services (paid corporately) in past years, but the easiest/fastest way is to grab a cab. Just go to the taxi line, wait your turn (even if the line looks long) and you'll be in your ride very soon. All of the cabs accept credit cards now - although drivers would prefer to be paid in cash.

The plan was good. Reality was less than good. Really bad storms in the area. The airlines cancelled several flights. Instead of arriving around noon, I was rebooked on a flight that was to arrive at midnight and played the standby game all day long.

<b>The red phone trick - </b>When the first flight was cancelled everyone of the plane was waiting in the same line. I no longer fly for business so didn't have the resouces formerly available to me to get a faster resolution. About 15 minutes in the wait, a woman walked by and said "Go to the red phones behind Gate X". Only a couple of people listened to her, but I decided to try. Sure enough there were 4 phones on the wall. I called. Someone answered. In just a few minutes I was rebooked on a (very) later flight and on the stand-by list for the next flight going out. Scan the QR reader with my smartphone at the kiosk a few feet away and I had printouts of all the changes. Repeat 2x during the day. Actually, when I saw I was 30something or 40something on the stand-by list for each flight, I just went directly back to the phones. Finally a seat opened up with an afternoon arrival. I booked it! Yay! I knew I was switching from LGA to Kennedy, but that was okay. At least for getting there...

The plane landed. Yay! Got off at Kennedy. Yay! Headed to baggage claim. Oh. It was then I realized that my bag would not be there. Sigh. Went directly to the baggage claim office. Filled out the report. They said I should receive my bag in 4 to 12 hours. The building has a door man, so "no problem". Off to the taxi stand. Grab a ride. Loved the drive into the city. Greeted by the doorman "I remember you! Welcome back!". Walked into the apartment with my backpack, grabbed the pup (the doorman had done the midday walk for me) and I'm back on the street of the neighborhood. I'm in bliss. I'm home again.

And dog-tired. I've missed the dinner party down in the Flatiron. Not really that hungry. Grabbed some hummus and crackers and some chilled pinot grigio and waited for the luggage to arrive.

<b>The GTG </b> - I was very excited that the NYC GTG dates fell within my trip. Looked forward to seeing old Fodorite friends and meeting new one - IRL anyway. I also was excited to hook up with friends I'd not seen in a few years and when one former co-worker wanted to come in the city on Saturday I asked if she would be willing to join a group lunch. She was game. We arranged the logistics. I was out running errands when, as if it were out of a TV show, I was walking down the block when I saw her approaching the light at the opposite block. We hugged at the corner, a bit difficult because I was holding sweet pup's leash and a couple of bags - including Crumbs cupcakes. She had bakery boxes in hand, so I hid the Crumbs when we got to the kitchen and reveled in her treats from Rispoli's Italian bakery in New Jersey.

We settled down with treats and drinks and chatted like mad...until it was clear I was going to have to get a bath and go to the GTG - and my luggage STILL hadn't arrived. My friend went with me to the walk-in closet and we searched for options that may work for me. I pulled things off shelves and skimmed through the hangers. My friend exclaimed "Where are her SUMMER clothes" - and I realized where. With her. In Hawaii. I grabbed a Tshirt, undies from her drawer (with her prior permission) and got a quick bath and we were off. In borrowed clothes, no makeup and a friend in tow.

ON the way, I shared that this travel group was an internet travel group. She was not fazed. I said I "knew" a few of them but there were many I didn't know and I couldn't guarantee how things would go. Still unfazed. We jabbered all of the way about other stuff, and even after we got there and cooled off with a drink. She had a blast. She said she had never been on Fodors, but may in the future (I don't think she's popped up yet). In the world of sychronicity and There Are No Coincidences, it turns out that all of us at our little table had professional connections from prior years. I had been in NYC interviewing for a position when ggreen had been in the same building. We didn't know each other but knew the same people. Ellenem and I had already discovered that our professional paths had crossed before. It's bizarre to have seemingly random people sitting at the table and realize that 10, 15, 20 years ago there were strands connecting each of us. We had a blast at our table, and it was fun meeting others sitting at other tables. So glad I got to meet the Asia group, Bob and gpanda's widow. Fodors editors - although poor KatieM was probably bowled over by everyone's excitment that our Katie (H) was there. She wasn't. But the other Katie was very nice too. The swag was great - cute new pins and great leather luggage tags. Great food, good drinks, good service. Lots of laughter. Another wonderful GTG. :-)

Enjoyed your report, Jo. And thanks for the link I managed to miss it first time around.

Great meeting you again Starrs. The Fodors GTG's are great & seeing old friends a plus!

Nice to see you, too!

Ah, thanks Rhea and ellenem! Great to see both of you!

Enjoy her trip report, AMC. It's truly the best one I've ever read on Fodors. She's a hoot!

So I won't bore you with a daily report. I'll try to group things together instead.

Shopping - didn't do much of it. Of course, I went to Fishs Eddy. Twice. It IS my favorite store. The first time I browsed for a bit and then went to the back sale section. I found the sweetest creamer (I used them to heat and serve syrup for the waffles on the weekends). 99 cents. I went all out. But of course I found other things I wanted so on my last evening I ducked back in to buy a couple of more things. I've gone to Fishs Eddy during almost every visit since they've been open. They used to have three stores in Manhattan - now just one near the Flatiron. If you like quirky things, especially dishes and glassware, don't miss Fishs Eddy. My favorite umbrella came from there too, with their Manhattan skyline motif. Here's a link (that takes you to their sale page) - http://www.fishseddy.com/specials.ht...3&sortby=SHAPE

Harry's shoes - After two days of walking in shoes without support, I was in pain. I chose slip on sandals for the flight. They were Merrell's. They were new They were cute. I thought they were perfect for a quick flight to NYC and planned to change almost as soon as I got there for dinner with friends down in the Flatiron district. Lost luggage messed up that plan - and my feet. On day 3 I gave up and limped to Harry's. At that point I didn't CARE what the shoes looked like. I walked in wanting Mephistos with the footbed of the shoes I bought for Paris. Of course the service was fabulous. Of course, I tried on about every brand they carried. Finally, the salesman brought out a pair of shoes that were so unlike anything I have worn...but it was the footbed I wanted. I bit the bullet. $200 spent. Walked out and immediately my feet felt better. I've gotten to like the style better but I know I'll never be without a pair of Mephistos. They are truly the best shoes I've ever worn. And I got to shop at Harry's too - http://www.harrys-shoes.com/content.php?p=About-Us

Broadway shows - If I had my druthers I'd go to a show every day. I had a list of shows I really wanted to see, but the schedule filled up fast so that didn't happen. I did go see The Best Man and I loved it. I really wanted to see Candice Bergen and Eric McCormack, but they had moved on. I was THRILLED that the show had been extended. I like Cybill Shepherd (saw her last in San Franscisco). Kristen Davis did a good job. James Earl Jones was AWESOME. John Larroquette was very good. Gore Vidal's play was as timely now as when he wrote it. Very good choice!

Tickets for shows - I prefer to buy tickets online from Broadwaybox.com using their discounts if the show is something I really want to see. Their discounts are often close to the prices a the TKTS booth. I consider a $10 difference neglible, especially considering how "valuable" time is in NYC. I'd rather save an hour spent in the ticket line and know I have the tickets I want. I do check what was at the TKTS booth the week before, the % of seats sold on the Playbill website and the Broadway Box discounts in order to create a plan. I had a list of 3 "maybes" if I had time to fit them in. I didn't. That was okay.

http://www.broadwaybox.com/
http://www.tdf.org/TDF_SupportPage.aspx?id=68&do=v
http://www.tdf.org/TKTSBoards.aspx
http://www.playbill.com/features/art...ses-Sept-24-30

Choosing plays - I thought everyone knew about this resource but remember a Fodorite regular who didn't, so... Check the most recent version of <b>Broadway Banter. </b> If I want to find it quickly, I do a search for HowardR's threads. This is one of my favorite regular features in the Fodors forums. Even when I'm not planning a trip, I'm reading reviews by the lucky ones who get to go to the shows often. When I'm finalizing decisions, I lean on the recommendations of HowardR, Centralparkgirl and NeoPatrick. They haen't steered me wrong yet (even though HowardR didn't love Wicked) :-)

The current version - http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...d-168789-2.cfm

Where I eat before a show - http://www.westbankcafe.com/menu.html
I'm a creature of habit. When I find a place I like, I return over and over again. For years, that place was Sam's. I searched for a few years after Sam's closed...and then found my new favorite, the West Bank Cafe. I love the food, the space, the service and the location. It's steps away from the theaters, but not in the crush of the craziness. I've been chided by some Fodorite locals for suggesting it, but I've had folks who have gone (or sent family members there) and every one has given the place a very enthusistic review. It's my favorite in the area. What can I say? ;)

The best part of the trip? Meeting up with friends and family -
1st night - missed dinner due to my late flight, so ate in
2nd night - visiting with my NJ friend, so ate in
3rd night - visited with ellenem in the Village and had wonderful Hungarian food and gelato afterwards
4th night - visited with travelbuff and toured a bit of Harlem
5th night - visited with laurieco and had wonderful Vietnamese food
6th night - visited with a family member and ate (again) at a favorite Greek restaurant
7th night - finally got to visit with my friends in the Flatiron and they grilled out on their deck. Delish

RESTAURANTS - Links for the restaurants mentioned above -
East Village - Hungarian, Veselka - http://www.veselka.com/
West Village - Gelato, Grom - http://www.grom.it/eng/
UWS - Vietnamese, Saigon Grill - http://saigongrillnyc.com/
UWS - Greek - Kefi -http://www.kefirestaurant.com/

Order in - Pio Pio for Peruvian - http://www.piopio.com/ (Matador Combo for several people or lots of leftovers)
Thai, from the nearby restaurant that was the first Thai food I ever ate (ages ago)

All of the above are very good, moderate in price and restaurants I'd return to over and over again (and have) :-)

So enjoying your report, starrs. Did you know that Grom is on the UWS too? And of course in Firenze!

Oh, and when did your luggage show up?

Wandering via the bus - This trip was very different from any before. Inspired by edeevee I decided to see as much of the city as possible via bus. Perhaps my favorite day was the day it rained. I got to my first planned visit, it started raining at my second and instead of being disappointed I rode around the city enjoying being dry and watching the city go by. On the other days, when there was a choice to make, I'd choose a new route (not necessarily the fastest) and sit back and relax. Like edeevee and mama and friends found out, it was a great way to explore the city. NOT great if you have a tight schedule, but otherwise it works. It also kept me off the horrendously hot subway platforms in summer.

As much as I enjoyed my excursions, the bus travel confirmed for me how wonderful the Hop on/Hop off buses are for newbie visitors to the city. I would be standing at the bus stop, looking at the map, deciding what bus to take next..and I realized how NICE it is to not have to plan. The HOHO bus routes take you to the favorite points in NYC. Yes, if traffic is backed up in Times Square, get off and walk to the next stop outside of the congested area. But other than those blocks, it's a great way to get around. I took them on my first visits in the city, and with newbies to the city as well.

In any case, grab a MetroCard or buy a pass for the HOHO bus and enjoy exploring the city! 7 days, unlimited rides = $29 = best deal in the city http://www.mta.info/metrocard/mcgtreng.htm

Quick story, I ducked in my first subway station to buy a MetroCard from the machine, went through the gates, stood in the stuffy air of the platform, bought a cold water, walked to keep moving because I really hate the heat in the summer (can you tell?) and then walked right out of the exit. I'd prefer walking (even on achy feet) than wait for the subway. I think I rode the subway twice during the week. Thanks to edeevee (if you ever read this) for turning me on to the bus! :-)

Thanks cpg! I arrived Friday and the luggage showed up late Saturday night. Two days in unsupportive shoes (and borrowed Crocs), capri pants (gasp!), and borrowed Tshirts and other stuff from my friend's closet. Friend is a LOT taller than me and her Crocs were large and ORANGE (I wonder if crefloors will see this TR). I looked like a clown, walking around the neighborhood. I. Did. Not. Care.

The luggage came in time for me to wear something decent to church. I wore shoes I'd just bought in Savannah. Went straight from the church to Harry's, then on to the matinee and met up with ellenem that evening. Those shoes from Harry's saved the trip!

I'm not much of an impulse buyer but I did buy a small bottle of verbena lotion from L'occitane at the airport. That became my perfume. AFTER the GTG my friend texted and told me where the Lancome samplers were in the closet. It all worked out, but I sure was glad to get my clothes and toiletries - and to get out of those capri pants. :-)

My favorite places to wander -

#1 - and my first stop - the 91st street garden and Riverside park - l'occihttp://www.nycgovparks.org/park-features/riverside-park/virtual-tour/91-garden

If you remember the last scene of You've Got Mail and the flowers in the garden in the middle of the paved path, well...there ya are! It's lovely. Any walk in Riverside Park is lovely. But most of all I just enjoy watching folks enjoying being outside in the city. Nannies with babies. Dogwalkers with dogs. Couples strolling. Runners running. People sitting on benches reading. I like seeing the same people day after day. I like the happy clamor coming from the playgrounds. I like talking to people about my pup or their pup or the flowers or butterflies. The volunteers were working in the garden and clusters were chatting and answering visitors' questions. Happy place.

#2 - Central Park, any part really. But mostly we just walk to the park, wander around a bit and then come on back home. Sweet pup loves the change of scenery and smells.

#3 - The Cloisters. I absolutely fell in love. But that description will have to wait for another day. Night y'all.

Enjoying the details of the rest of your visit, though want to mention that Veselka is a Ukrainian restaurant. Waiting for your reaction to the Cloisters--I just made a return visit after many years.

Please note Veselka is the Ukranian word for rainbow. And the founders are Ukranian and even describe the food today as "Ukranian Soul Food." And while there are some similarities, most Ukranians speak a distinct language from Magyar and practice a distinct relegion and there is a large active Ukranian Orthodox Church and museum just a few blocks from Veselka. In fact Magyar is a non-Indo European language while Ukranian is a Slavic langugae which is written in a varaition of Cyrillic script. And yes there is some bleeding and belnding of the cultures at the Hungry/Ukranian border but that constitutes a very, very tiny portion of the Ukrainian population.

http://www.veselka.com/index2.html

Sorry for the goof. I probably shouldn't have posted when I'm tired. The food was great! I'll write about it more later - and the Cloisters, ellenem. :-)

Oh, yay, more to come! Excellent report, Jo.

I'm glad you finally made it to The Cloisters, and it didn't disappoint.

The Hungarian thing was just a plain ole goof. I had written "Portugese" for Pio Pio and noticed it during preview. I know full well that it's Peruvian...but my brain subbed another word. Thanks for the info re the distinction of Ukranian/Hungarian but the wrong word was just a stupid goof. The food was great though - and the company was better. Another little bit of synchronicity - when I was back home, I was relaxing at the book on the lake, reading a book that I had just picked up at the marina's lending library. Enjoying Dani Shapiro's "Family History" when Veselka jumped off the page. I'll upload a picture as my profile pic. If I had only checked my book photo first. :-)

I am glad you enjoyed Veselka so. It seemed it had changed for the worse for a few years back but it is now back to its usual high standard.

Next time you are in NY, there is an old fashioned butcher shop across the street from Veselka. Although they too are Ukranians they make an extraordinary assortment of cheap and the scrumptous kiełbasa. Take them home if you can get them past the TSA drug sniffing dogs who are attracted to them. They are wonderful when BBQ-ed.

I scanned most of this thread and didn't read about when your luggage caught up with you.
Glad you had a good time even with the SNAFU.

Well darn, the Veselka line is cropped off the page after the upload, but it says <i>"I spent much of the time I wasn't in class at Velselka, a Ukrainian diner on Second Avenue. It was a crowded, noisy place that served big cheap bowls of chicken soup, doughy pierogis, and strong coffee. I brought my books and spread my papers out over a back table, preferring the din to the oppressive quiet of the NYC library".

</I>Ellenem said pretty much the same of her college days. She said they have spruced it up a bit since those days. All I know is that I really enjoyed it. The food was fabulous!

^^I wrote the above this morning before I left the computer and it didn't post. So a bit of a time delay...

tomfuller, the luggage caught up with me late the 2nd day. My flight was one of several that were cancelled during bad weather and the delivery service is contracted out. They were totally overhelmed with the backlog of luggage in the warehouse. It all worked out Just a little glitch. I'd rather have had my clothes for the GTG but it came in time for church on Sunday. I just won't make the same mistake of picking shoes for the flight that weren't very supportive It took weeks for my poor bruised heel to recover. I was also walking around NYC with a Sweetea Tshirt (they specialize in southern sayings). Didn't realize until later that "Shoot Fire" probably wasn't the best shirt to wear in the city. ;) I switched to my friend's shirts = Cape Cod and a local organization.

Thanks Adu. I just follow ellenem's lead. I let her pick out the restaurants and she hasn't led me wrong yet. My friends leave a folder full of menus from their favorite places so I follow their lead. My family member recommended Kefi years ago and I think I've been back every visit. They have a great whire sangria and wonderful Greek chicken with potatoes. laurieco recommended one of her favorite restaurants near me. I trust the locals and use their recommendtions. So far, so good.

Enjoyed reading your report. As for Fish Eddy, I had never heard of them (what do I know, I'm in the midwest!) but I'm having fun browsing their website. Do you mind sharing what kind/brand shoes you bought? Shoe browsing is a major, lifelong addiction for me.

I adore Fishs Eddy. When they started, the partners had found a store/warehouse of unused vintage Syracuse china (if I remember correctly) as well as overstocks of personalized plates. The first time I walked in a store there were stacks of those overstock plates and on the top was a plate from the dining room of the continuing ed center of my university. My SIL's mom worked there. I eat there 2x a year while at conferences. What are the odds? :-) Back in the day they had three stores in Manhattan, but now they just have the one. I always go. During the year I browse the website to see what I think I'll want to buy. I'm still eyeing their polka dot glasses. I have a massive birthday plate for serving birthday cakes. I've sent baby presents from there. If you ship home from there you don't have to pay sales tax (and that's pretty hefty in NYC). At the beginning they created their own designs, NYC skyline, Brooklyn bridge, etc. but they also have guest designers. Cynthia Rowley designed a line. Basically you'll find funky different china, glasses and gifts that you can't find elsewhere. When I first bought my place in the mountains I bought a mix of their platters to use as plates (the kind used in diners and railroad cars). Now I just use them as servers. Fishs Eddy is one of my favorite stores ever and love going there at least one for every visit. One of the new funny designs is an Obama birther tray - http://www.fishseddy.com/search.htm?...ep=2&x=17&y=13 I always check out the sale section in the back of the store. I returned on my last day for this (it seemed appropriate) http://www.fishseddy.com/browse.cfm/4,3800.html


I tried on a shoe from almost every brand at Harry's but knew what I really wanted. I bought Mephisto sandals - again. The first time I splurged for Mephistos was for my trip to Paris and I wore them every day - and almost every day after I got home. When those wore out I bought a pair from Zappos. Wasn't thrilled with that pair either, but kept them and wore them almost every day too. This was my third pair. I really didn't like the tops of them - shiny patent leather croc surface = so not me. But I rationalized I could wear them for work...and have. They are my "Ahhhh!" shoes. Fabulous support and like walking on air. Here's a similar style - http://www.zappos.com/mephisto-sophia-black-bucksoft

Thanks starrs. I also thought of wedding/housewarming gifts while browsing Fish Eddys, lots of cute items.

I have never bought Mephistos but my husband has a pair he loves.

Love your TR, Stars - thanks for reminding me it's high time for another NYC trip!

Starrs-I want to thank you for the Harry's shoes rec! I'm enjoying a few days in my favorite city by myself before I visit with family in Jersey. A rainy day meant my usual activity of simply walking and exploring wasn't a good choice. Instead I went to the Museum of the City of new York and spent a lovely morning, then walked to the west side for lunch and a stop at Harry's. Bought 3 pairs (including 2 mephistos-i love their sandals and was thrilled to find some closed toe shoes that can become my winter Europe travel shoes!). Will look forward to searching out Fishs Eddy on a future trip!

Oh, I am so glad! My friend who grew up a few blocks away has been telling me to go there for years. I'm not a big shopper but knew exactly where to go with achy feet. Glad you had good luck. I was looking at Zappos online yesterday for winter options. I'm in the north Ga mtns right now with chilly toes all night because I'm in those sandals. Enjoy wearing them in Europe :-)

Really enjoying your report. How wonderful that you get to dog-sit and enjoy New York at the same time...what kind of dogs does she have? And an excuse to buy shoes, what more could you ask for?

We really liked the Cloisters. Looking forward to that part.

Really enjoying your report. You have mentioned frequent trips to NYC before, so it was interesting to hear how you have visited your friend through the years.

I am in love with the city. We are in suburban NJ, but I love the bustle of the city. We visited three times this week, for various reasons, and it was the food that sent me into spasms of delight. So I particularly love reading about restaurants in the city.

We love the Cloisters too!

Thanks travelgirl2! For many years my companies' headquarters were in NYC and NJ, so got up there every once in a while for business trips too. For some reason, most of the meetings were in Jan-Mar. I had my "NJ winter coat" = long wool coat that was perfect. I wore it two years ago at the beginning of the Easter week trip. It's so long and thick the wind can't get through. It's heavy though. Anyway, a car service would pick me up at the airport and take me to the meetings, but I always tried to get back to the city for at least one night before I flew back out. The first time I took a Foods of NY walking tour (Greenwich Village, there was only one at that time) was in January. 7 degrees. 7 hardy souls showed up for a walking tour in those temps. It was a great tour. I DO love the bustle of the city. You are so lucky to be able to get into the city three times in one week. Jealous! Okay, time to get busy and write about the Cloisters. I did love it!

Brr! I finally took a Greenwich Village foodie walking tour last year. Yum. Those rice balls were to die for. At the place at the foot of Cornelia Street. Such a cute area. Sometimes now we swing by and get a hot rice ball to go. I think it's only a dollar.

Glad you enjoyed your tour, travelgirl2. I took the East Village tour a few years later and didn't enjoy it as much. I think our guide was just a little bit "off". The highlight of the tour was the gnocchi. I'll do another one from their list of options again...someday.

I watched several episodes of the History Channel's The Men Who Built America and was fascinated. I recently read a book I'd picked up at the Moose Visitor Center in Grand Teton National Park about the settlers in Jackson Hole and the creation of the park. It was amazing to see how the money was made and thanks to the Rockefellers for spending it to make the park and the Cloisters available to all of us. Back to the trip report and the Cloisters. http://www.history.com/shows/men-who...-built-america