Visiting Umbrian Region
 

My husband and I are planning a trip to Umbria for a week prior to our Celebrity cruise to the Eastern Mediterrenean on Nov 20.

Here is our itinerary:
Nov. 12- Arrive Rome for Orvieto (3 nights)
Nov. 16- To Assisi (4 nights)
Nov. 20- To Citivecchia (Cruise begins)

Questions:
1- Train or rental car from Rome to Orvieto?
2- I will be taking a one-day cooking class in Assisi (Letizia's class). Rent a car for a day or hire a taxi?
3- Any ideas for day trips to other towns?
4- Should we stay in Citivecchia on Nov. 19 instead of arriving on the 20th (day of cruise)?

Thanks in advance for any information you may provide.

The train from Rome to Orvieto is one non stop hour. The Hertz office is around the corner from the Orvieto station. Umbria is virtually inaccessible without a car. With the exception of Perugia, Umbria is a collection of relatively small towns.

I have stayed a half dozen times at Le Case Gialle, a few km west of Bevagna. They will take you for less than a week. Google them. From Bevagna, Assisi is 20 minutes, Trevi, Montefalco and Spello less. Perugia is perhaps 45 minutes. I can recommend some dining establishments in the area if you wish.

I've not been to Civitivecchia.

(I'm sure you will have more luck on the Europe forum.)

Thank you for the info you provided. I checked the place you mentioned and it seems a good possibility.

Thanks again.

Four nights in Assisi sounds like a lot to me. In any event, you may get more responses if you post this in the Europe forum and tag it "Italy." This is the United States forum.

Day trips we did from Orvieto included Montepulciano and the Chianti area. We really like Greve in Chianti.

Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I value your input.

Loved Assisi! Your first view of it will be an "Oh, my God!" moment! I just got back Saturday night.

Make sure you go to the Santa Maria d'Angels (probably don't have the exactly right name but it is the church at the lower town from Assisi where St. Francis founded his church. In the huge basillica is the tiny church that Francis founded. They built this huge basillica around his tiny church. I wonder what this humble man, from a well-to-do family who renounced all of his material things, would think of this multi-million dollar basillica honoring him. Anyway, his church is well worth seeing.

Had the best gnocchi in gorganzolla (spelling is sooo wrong) sauce in Assisi! It was in the restaurant that plays jazz... if you want the name, let me know and I'll look for it.

Perugia, Spello, Trevi and Spoleto are all easily accessible from Assisi.
I like Spello less than the others personally. Trevi is a great village but it's way up a great hill from the station and when we were there, they were just catching on to tourism and seemed to think everybody had a car because bus from station to centre and return is dodgy - needs check with Trevi tourist office.
Perugia and Spoleto are both full of interest

If you opt for Le Case Gialle I'm sure that Mauro will send you to hiw favorite restaurants, which will be: Salvatore's in Foligno, l'Alchemista in Montefalco and Ottovius or Enoteca Piazza Onofri in Bevagna.

I also think your time in Assisi is a bit much. Its pleasant enough but, IMO, worth one day at most.

Buon viaggio.

Non-stop train to Orvieto? Many Orvieto is served by regional trains that stop all the time IME - direct train perhaps was what was meant? Anyway from the train station a funicular scoots you up the hill to the old town say you do not want to take a cab.

We just returned from Umbria. Stayed in Spello and Orvieto. We also visted Cortuna, Spoletto, Deruta. I would trade Spello for Cortuna in a heartbeat. Spello is to isolated, we stayed in the La Basttiglia in Spello and it was even more isolated at the top of town by itself. Orvieto wound up being our favorite city in Italy, the Duomo was unbelievable and the underground tour was very unique.. We stayed at the Hotel Palazzo Piccolomin1.

Hi, Wellison-
What would be a good base--Orvieto and Assisi or something else? Did you rent a car in Rome or somewhere else? I've heard of some horror stories about driving in Italy. What do you think?

Thanks.

I suggest taking the train to Orvieto and then rent a car when you plan to leave there. I also enjoy my stays at Le Case Gialle. It is very central for exploring the Umbria region and not too far from Assisi (30 minutes).

The Touring Club Italy Umbria guidebook is a great resource for planning your days.

Driving in Umbria is easy. I have done it solo many times and never had any issues. Make sure you take a good, detailed map (2cm = 2 km). You can pick one up in Orvieto.

Contact autoeurope.com or kemwel.com for your car rental. Be sure to look at the deductable as well as the price of the rental. Lately, Kemwel has had some great prices with no deductable.

Here is some useful information on transportation and other things in Italy-

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/instructions/index.htm

Great info. Thank you.

I just noticed that you will be in Orvieto for 3 nights. You should rent the car when you are ready to explore from Orvieto and then continue on to your next base in Umbria. On your way from Orvieto to your next base, consider a stop for lunch and exploring in Todi.

Where are you staying in Orvieto? Be sure to inquire about parking.

I highly recommend a car to explore the countryside, but if you do not want to do so, you do have choices for day trips to towns by train/bus from Orvieto and Assisi.

From Orvieto- Cortona, Civita Bagnoregio, Chiusi

From Assisi- Spello, Trevi, Perugia, Spoleto

While in Orvieto, we are planning on doing day trips to places you recommended. When we leave for Assisi, we will then rent a car.

We are still in the process of finding hotels in Orvieto and Assisi. We are leaning towards Rick Steve's recommendations. Any ideas for hotels at both places (that are moderately priced)?

Thank you.

I wanted to stay at Hotel Umbra in Assisi but it was not available for my desired date, stayed at Hotel Sole which was very basic (but cheap at 45 euros... you get what you pay for).

pdxlinda,

On one trip we stayed 3 nts in Orvieto (we drove there) and did day trips from there. We really loved Orvieto and the town itself is good for a full day and evening.

Stayed at Palazzo Piccolomini **** which was reasonable when we went in 2000! Parked in the town parking structure which is at the opposite end of town from the train station and very easy to drive in and out. Underground escalators take you up to town from the structure and happen to come out right at Palazzo Piccolomini. (A real old palazzo and very interesting place to stay with good breakfast.)

Our day trips were one to Todi (loved it) and Deruta for ceramics. Another afternoon to Civita di Bagnoreggio which we also really enjoyed. Good for an afternoon.

We dropped our car (which we had for a week) in Orvieto (easy) and trained on from there.

On another trip I stayed in Assisi one night (not planned in advance just by default) at a simple *** Hotel Porta Nuova. They had free parking, good breakfast, simple basic rooms. It was just outside the town gates so a long walk all the way to the basilica. Enjoyed visiting Assisi, but much preferred staying in Spello!

Loved tiny, quiet, untouristed Spello! I stayed 2 nts at the Palozzo Bocci**** and had a memorable dinner at their restaurant across the street Il Molino. Spello is very tiny, with wonderful views (you can see Assisi), lots of gardens and flowers, and some excellent art in churches and museums of their own. Easy to drive, park in and out. From there I spend another 1/2 in Assisi and one afternoon driving and wandering to Montefalco - where I discovered their excellent local wine, Sagrantino di Montefalco. Fabulous.

Hope this helps with some additional details of these two towns specifically.

Buon viaggio!

Have you considered a night or two in Perugia? Possibly borrowing a day from the Assisi part which seems like it has maybe one extra night (even with the cooking class). BTW I traveled in Umbria last summer and did it by train; I know you're planning a car (which will definitely help with exploring). In Orvieto, I stayed at Hotel Duomo (I wrote a review on tripadvisor), mostly based on recommendations from here. In Assisi (previous trip) I stayed at Hotel Umbra which has a great location on the main drag, but not sure where parking would be. Once you have hotels you can also check with them about where the parking is.

I think dining in Umbria is wonderful--I've had many great meals there even just stumbling across little places to eat; less fish oriented (of course) and wonderful inventive pasta dishes which are my favorite. Lovely wines (I drink the Orvieto white when in Umbria unless red is absolutely called for).

Spello is easily accessible from Assisi by train (though 10 Eu taxi ride up the hill to town center); I'm sure car even easier/quicker; it is lovely, and it is well known for gourmet dining (try Il Molino, I believe the name is, for lunch or dinner) and has some lovely shops to pick up dried herbs and other gourmet ingredients. It's known as a lovely town with many flowering displays, pots, etc. But it is small, and it is indeed up a hill!

So were I doing the trip I'd try to work in Perugia as you make your way north from Orvieto., though it is the main large city in the region and perhaps you are only interested in the smaller towns. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful about when to get the car but I've only explored this region via train. It's a wonderful part of Italy and I know you'll have a great time!

Perugia's definitely worth visiting, but I wouldn't stay there when you've already gto a base in Assisi - they're only half an hour apart on the train.

I think Assisi makes a great base for Umbria, especially in November when the town will be less crowded. I'd pick a hotel on the outskirts of town that has parking. All the towns mentioned are great for exploring, but do a little research to see which ones appeal to you. One not mentioned that we enjoyed a lot was Gubbio.

annw, did you do a trip report? We are planning to stay in Perugia and use public transport only, would love to read about your adventures.
Thanks.

Never got around to it, Maudie! There's a thread on Perugia I started to get info so maybe I'll resurrect it and include some follow up notes there!

That would be really helpful,annw. We are happy using public transport as opposed to most of the posters here who prefer to hire a car. Each to his own I guess.