Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   United States (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/)
-   -   Unexpected South West Trip! Itinerary ideas? (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/unexpected-south-west-trip-itinerary-ideas-770029/)

quiUK Feb 28th, 2009 05:16 AM

Unexpected South West Trip! Itinerary ideas?
 
I have won an award at work, and the prize is return flights for 2 to Vegas and 3 nights accommodation. I have the option to extend the trip (at own expense), so as we are from the UK, we would like to take this unexpected opportunity to see more of the South West. I'm thrilled as we weren't sure whether we would be able to take a big trip this year following our road trip from Florida to New Orleans last December, so want to make the most of the (hopefully) 2 weeks we will have.

The only restriction is that I cannot take the trip before July (and that suits us anyway), so we were thinking of either October or November. After we have our 3 nights in Vegas, we would like to see the following as we are into photography and hiking:
Grand Canyon
Bryce Canyon/Zion
Yosemite

Having used this forum for a while, I know your first reaction my my questions will be to tell me to go off and do some research, (which of course I plan to do!), but in the meantime, I would be grateful for suggestions of other places to visit, suggested routes (ie, which circular route from/back to Vegas to take everything in. Do we go east or west first?!), and how long you recommend staying in places.

Thanks in advance as ever for any suggestions!

Myer Feb 28th, 2009 05:37 AM

I don't know how much time you really plan to spend.

Since you are into photography, I'll list some of the more spectacular, reasonably close places from my two trips to Utah/Arizona.

There are many places within Bryce & Zion that people will tell you about.

For Bryce I would visit Bryce Point for sunrise and Natural Bridge. Hike down Navajo Loop from Sunset Point and then up Queen's Garden to Sunrise Point.

I would drive about 20 miles east of Bryce to Cannonville and get instructions from the visitors center there on how to get to Willis Creek. It's a real slot canyon with a little creek running through it. Be careful in threatening weather as that little creek could become something more.

If you have the time, go east as far as Lower Calf Creek Falls. A 2.5 mile hike that's pretty easy but with little shade. The prize at the end is the 126 foot falls. Spectacular.

Between Bryce/Zion and the South Rim of GC is Page, AZ. There are a few sights there: The Best Dam View (free), Horseshoe Bend (free and a 3/4 mile walk in hot sand) that has a spectacular view of a turn in the Colorado River and Antelope Canyon.

You can see my photos at:

www.travelwalks.com

There in two trips from 2007 & 2008.

emalloy Feb 28th, 2009 05:55 AM

If you have plenty of time, continue from Bryce to Capitol Reef and then over to Moab UT area for Arches NP and Canyonlands NP (at least a couple of days here), down through Monument Valley (drive through here will be fine), back to Page (Horseshoe Bend and Antelope canyon) down to Grand Canyon both rims, back to Vegas. While you are in Vegas, take one day away from the hoopla and drive a couple of hours west into Death Valley, spend an afternoon at Red Rock Canyon State Park (only a half hour or so from Vegas), an hour north east of Vegas is Valley of Fire State Park, or one hour south east Hoover Dam. Loads of photo ops at all these places. Check the weather and if necessary, do the loop in the other direction. Visit Vegas at night, the wonders of the earth in the day time.

mmouse52 Feb 28th, 2009 06:26 AM

I agree with the above suggestions from emalloy. You definately want to see Zion Bryce. Capitol Reef and Canyonlands there are amazing photo opportunities. Arches and Antelope canyon a must see. My suggestion would be if you do a circle and end at Grand Canyon to fly home out of Phoenix. It's a shorter drive than going back to Las Vegas. You will see some of the most spectacular places in this country which unfortunately many Americans have never seen.

Barbara Feb 28th, 2009 09:43 AM

If you really want to include Yosemite, which is a phenomenal place, then you ought to plan your trip for September or very early October so that you can cross over the Tioga Pass before it is closed for the winter. By late October the Pass is usually closed because of snow (until May or June the following year) and you'd have a long detour to get to Yosemite.

MichelleY Feb 28th, 2009 09:48 AM

I would also recommend that you move your trip up into October or even late September.

MY

Barbara Feb 28th, 2009 09:57 AM

quiUK, here's a link to the web cam page of the Yosemite web site. Lovely scenes, but look particularly at the bottom one which is of Tioga Pass today!

http://www.nps.gov/yose/photosmultimedia/webcams.htm

quiUK Feb 28th, 2009 10:07 AM

Thanks for the replies everyone - there are some great suggestions here. I also really appreciate the information on the Tioga Pass. If we did go in Sept/early October and the pass was open, is it a particularly scenic drive? It sounds like it will be!

Thanks also for the suggestion to visit places outside of Vegas by day. I had originally thought we wouldn't pick up our rental car until we planned to hit the road properly. However for only a little extra cost, it sounds like we could make the most of our time in the city by taking a couple of short day trips.

As always, great advice from this forum - many thanks and keep the suggestions coming!

Barbara Feb 28th, 2009 10:22 AM

IMO, the Tioga Pass route into and out of Yosemite is stunning. You are very high up, over 10,000 ft. I believe, and I feel as if I'm on the top of the World.

The "most" stunning way to enter Yosemite Valley, though also IMO-is via Tunnel View. However, coming from the east, that would not be the most practical option for you. You would want to drive up to it from the Valley and take many, many pictures.

Also, if you go before the roads close, you'd be able to go to Glacier Point, another stunning, don't miss, place. Many more pics here!

MichelleY Feb 28th, 2009 01:14 PM

Barbara is right on. Tioga Pass is stunning. We went thru on our honeymoon 20 years ago and my DH still talks about how spectacular it was. We are native Californians and have traveled quite a bit, but he still ranks it up towards the top, along with Zion, Bryce and the Grand Canyon !! :)

You will have a fabulous trip!! Plus, the aspens will be turning in the higher elevations.

MY

enzian Feb 28th, 2009 01:40 PM

Another benefit of going late September/early October is that you could visit the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, which is only open until October 15.

A nice thing about starting from Las Vegas is that the car rentals there are about the cheapest around. I assume you are flying out of Las Vegas so you would return the car there? That will save on drop fees.

If you enjoy hiking you will love this trip. I helped organize a similar trip to the Grand Canyon (hiking from rim to rim) and Zion for a group of friends from the UK last September/October. We spent 8 nights in the area and had a fantastic experience.

Do you have an interest in an overnight stay at the bottom of the Grand Canyon? If so, I can help you with the logistics. One must either get reservations at the lodge at Phantom Ranch (already booked solid but cancellations do appear from time to time), or camp at nearby Bright Angel campground. (We prefer the campground, because the accommodations for hikers at Phantom are in dormitories, separate for men and women).

You must have a permit to camp, which you would apply for on May 1 for camping anytime in September (or June 1 for camping in October). I can explain the process in detail if you are interested. Camping gear (tent, sleeping bags and pad, etc.) is available to rent at the Grand Canyon general store or at REI in Las Vegas.

If not including a stay at the bottom of the canyon, you could do something like this:

Las Vegas to GC South Rim (5 hours drive), spend 2 nights. Spend the intervening day on a hike down into the canyon.

Book your south rim lodging at www.grandcanyonlodges.com and try to do it soon---they do get booked way in advance. There are 4 lodges right near the edge of the rim, and 2 a 1/4 mile or so away.

GC SR to GC North Rim (5 hours drive), spend 2 nights. Again, spend the intervening day hiking down into the canyon (which is totally different on this side from the south rim side).

Book your North Rim lodging at http://www.grandcanyonlodgenorth.com/

They have rustic cabins (all with ensuite bath) scattered along the rim. It looks from the website like they still have some available.

North Rim to Zion (2.5 hours drive), spend 3 nights. Lots of great hiking and photography opportunities here. (If you use the Tripadvisor travel site too, look for me under the same name. I have photos of Zion posted with my profile.)

Zion has a national park lodge inside the park (book at www.xanterra.com) but our friends loved the Desert Pearl Inn in Springdale, just at the park entrance.

Zion to Bryce (not sure---maybe 1.5 hours?) spend 2 or 3 nights. Book the national park inn there (Bryce Canyon Lodge) through Xanterra.

Then you'll have to decide---most Utah red rock parks, or head for Yosemite?

I can't help with the other Utah parks, but if you decide on Yosemite, try to book one of the lodges or tent camps right in Yosemite Valley. Book these at

http://www.yosemitepark.com/ACCOMMODATIONS.ASPX

If you are driving over the Tioga Pass route, you will probably want to stop for a night on the east side of the pass, after your drive from Utah. The little town of Lee Vining offers numerous motels, and sits right on the edge of very photogenic Mono Lake:

http://www.monolake.org/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffrey...n/photostream/

peterboy Feb 28th, 2009 01:52 PM

Here's a 14 day itinerary I came up
with for a trip my sster-in-law made.
It is a loop known as The Grand Circle
so, if you google that you'll find lots
of information.

I agree that you should try to go in
September. Actually the quietest time
in the National Parks are the week before
and after Labor Day. That's generally
the last week of August and first week
of September.


Day 1
Fly to Vegas. Get rental SUV and depart to
Grand Canyon South Rim. A 5 hour drive.
Spend night at South Rim.

Day2
Visit Grand Canyon.
Spend night at South Rim

Day 3
Drive to and tour Monument Valley.
About a 4 hour drive.
Spend night at Valley of the Gods B&B
near Mexican Hat.

Day 4
Drive through the Valley of the Gods
then on to Moab. About a 3.5 hour drive.
Spend the next 3 nights in Moab.

Day 5
Go hiking in Arches National Park

Day 6
Go hiking in Arches or go on
a 4WD Jeep tour or rafting
on the Colorado.

Day 7
Tour the overlook road in
Canyonlands Islands in the Sky
or any of the things you missed
the day before.

Day 8
Drive to Torrey Utah stopping to
visit Goblins State Park along the
way. A 3.5 hour drive...add an
hour or so if you visit Goblins.

Day 8
Tour and hike Capitol Reef National
Park. Spend a second night in Torrey.
Austin's Chuck Wagon is where we like
to stay.

Day 9
Drive over Boulder Mountain to Boulder
about a 50 minute drive. Check into Boulder
Mountain Inn.
Spend the afternoon hiking into Calf Creek
Falls then return for dinner and a night
at BML.

Day 10
Drive to Bryce Canyon National Park.
A 2 hour drive. Drive the overlook
road and enjoy the view while your
body adjusts to the altitude. Spend
the night in a cabin in the park.

Day 11
Now that you're adjusted, hike into
the canyon. Spend the night in the
cabin again.

Day 12
Drive to Zion National Park
(less than 2 hours) and hike.
Stay at The Desert Pearl Inn in
Springdale.

Day 13
Hike in Zion National Park.

Day 14
Drive to Las Vegas and depart.
It is a 2.5 hour drive from
Springdale to Vegas but you
get an hour back from a time
zone; the hour you lost driving
from Vegas to Grand Canyon
two weeks earlier.

You'll notice that, at the beginning
of the trip, the drives are longer. I
feel that the loop is more relaxing if
the driving becomes less later in the
trip.

If you see it another way just reverse
the order and start in Zion instead of
Grand Canyon.


Here's our report from our last trip
although we didn't do the whole loop.

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/utah_tr

You're going to love this trip!!

Supercilious Feb 28th, 2009 04:53 PM

You have gotten good advice. I also would suggest going in late September for the fall colors. This is the best time for the aspen groves which you can find at the higher elevations in Zion, on the way into the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, along Hwy 12 near Boulder, Utah, and in the the Eastern Sierra on your way to Yosemite.

In my opinion, doing the trip in November would be the least desirable because of deteriorating weather conditions and very short days.

enzian Feb 28th, 2009 08:57 PM

Supercilious--you just reminded me how beautiful the golden aspens were at the North Rim at the end of September. In the 3 days we were absent for our rim to rim hike, and then returned, the colors deepend dramatically.

That is a perfect time for the trip---not too hot, but pleasant in the daytime, and cool at night, but not freezing.

hetismij Mar 1st, 2009 03:20 AM

Can I suggest a couple of books to you - you can get them from Amzon.co.UK
They are a series of three called Photographing the Southwest, by Lauretn Martres, and are just brilliant. Not only do they tell of places for fantastic photos but also tell you about those places. I took them last year when we toured Arizona and New Mexico, and we used them (and the Falcon Scenic drives books - also excellent!) more than the general guide books we had.
They will help give you ideas about what is to see and do, and also show out of the way, lesser known places, which are worth visiting.

althom1122 Mar 1st, 2009 04:54 AM

Yosemite is too far for this trip (unless you want to immediately head west from Las Vegas and focus on California, which would be another option entirely than what's been discussed here so far). I think the itinerary advice you've gotten is spot on. You might also want to include Mesa Verde National Park. It's well worth it and would be very different from anything else on your itinerary. Personally, I'd pick it over Monument Valley, but that's just one opinion. Don't underestimate driving times in this part of the country - distances are long. You'll have a great time. It's such a beautiful area. I agree with the others - September would be better. Definitely do not move it to November. And get busy getting reservations nailed down at the national parks - they get booked long in advance. Good luck - we'll want a trip report! :-)

http://www.nps.gov/archive/meve/home.htm

http://www.visitmesaverde.com/

quiUK Mar 1st, 2009 07:06 AM

Wow everyone - thanks for taking the time to reply with such detailed responses and suggestions, and posting links.

I've got so much to think about now! althom1122 - I think you've summed up what I was beginning to suspect - we can't do it all, so need to decide whether to stay in NV,UT and AZ or whether to head west to CA. Decisions, decisions!

Dayle Mar 1st, 2009 07:17 AM

quiUK,

Peterboy's itinerary is PERFECT! Do it - at the end of Sept. I agree that Yosemite is not a good use of time for this trip. Save it for another trip that includes more of CA.

Have fun!

althom1122 Mar 1st, 2009 09:09 AM

I would stick with Nevada, Utah, and Arizona (and the corner of Colorado if you decide to include Mesa Verde) as the best bet. The scenery is fantastic.

California is wonderful, too, though. If you decide on it, definitely see Yosemite and Sequoia, and head to the coast for the drive from LA to San Francisco (or vice versa).

cc1 Mar 1st, 2009 01:03 PM

Bryce canyon was my favourite place in our tour of the Southwest last summer. Absolutely spectacular and the hiking was perfect. We also did the North Rim of the Grand Canyon ans stayed at the lodge there. We lucked out with weather even though we were there in the summer (70 degrees) which is apparently cool for July. So we had a good, albeit, tiring hike into the canyon.

MichelleY Mar 1st, 2009 02:37 PM

For this trip, I vote that you stick with the Nevada/Utah, Arizona plan. Do Yosemite/Northern Cal on another trip.

MY

quiUK Mar 2nd, 2009 12:03 PM

Well, I think you've all convinced us that a tour of the Grand Circle is the way to go, and that September is the best time of year for our next adventure!

We can't really book anything until at least July, when I'll be able arrange our flights through work, but this still allows us plenty of time to plan our route. I only hope that the accommodations we choose still have availability by then!

Thank you all for such great replies to my questions. We are both very excited about this trip and we'll no doubt be calling on your superior knowledge in the coming weeks and months.

Dayle Mar 3rd, 2009 07:27 AM

Sept is still high season and loding is in demand. Go ahead and plan your route, but make reservations NOW. Just be sure to check the cancellation policies.

peterboy Mar 3rd, 2009 10:03 AM

Staying in the National Park Lodging is a must IMO for Grand Canyon and Bryce. In both these places, sunrise is not to be missed.

It isn't possible to lodge in Arches and not necessary in Zion since Springdale is so close and nice.

As Dayle said, make reservations now and, if they are all booked, call every (local time)afternoon to pick up someone else's cancellation. Cancellations are common since many folks know that lodging fills up quickly but then they change their plans and cancel.

You can only get pick up on cancellations by calling every day. Rooms made available through cancellations NEVER show up on the website. You must call. If you are persistent, you will (99.9%) be able to get a room in the park.

quiUK Mar 4th, 2009 08:31 AM

Thanks to all those who have provided such excellent advice and suggestions.

Not sure however that agajohnson really understood my original post. Much as I would love some towering Christian Louboutin stilletoes I'd feel a little out of place wearing them for a hike in the canyons. The Ugg boots are a posibility, but still think they'd be lacking in appropriate ankle support! Who knows though - the bags he's peddling may come in useful?! ;-)

Anyone know how to report advertisers on the boards to the moderators?

quiUK Mar 4th, 2009 08:34 AM

Wow - that was quick - his post has been removed already!

peterboy Mar 4th, 2009 09:28 AM

I reported the spam at about 10:30 AM.
There were many threads across the forums
that were spammed with the same message.

Polite68 Mar 5th, 2009 05:58 AM

Phoenix area will be a great place to visit during those months. I suggest Sedona, AZ to be the perfect destination and to take great pictures. It is about 145drive out of Phoenix. In Utah, definitely go to Arches National Park as well as Canyonlands. While in Vegas, definitely try to catch one of their Cirque de Soleil shows. KA or LE Reve were my personal favorites.

kyhiker55 Mar 5th, 2009 06:37 PM

I would like to recommend Buffalo Sage B & B outside Bryce Canyon. My wife and I spent two nights there, great food and the most spectacular night sky I have ever seen. it alone was worth the stay. You can google it and get the information.

peterboy Mar 6th, 2009 04:09 AM

I agree kyhiker, we too were amazed by the
night sky when we camped at Bryce. You
gain a better appreciation for the term
'Milky Way' when you see it through the
clear, high altitude sky there.

peterboy Mar 6th, 2009 08:39 AM

This thread reminds me that, not far from Bryce is Natural Bridges National Monument which has been designated as the world's first 'International Dark Sky Park'. Check the link below for more on that:

http://www.nps.gov/nabr/parknews/news040507.htm

MichelleY Mar 6th, 2009 10:05 AM

I also agree with Ky & peterboy about the sky. We spent one night at the GC North Rim and a telescope was set up. DD & her friend saw Saturn, including the rings. With the naked eye, we could see stars down to the horizon and the mass of the Milky Way rising in the SE. Amazing!!

MY

JJ5 Mar 6th, 2009 12:11 PM

I only read this thread up until the detailed schedule of days.

Leave out Yosemite, I agree with that post- absolutely.

Not that it isn't worth it, but it is way too far and you'll be driving far too much, IMHO.

I would do nearly everything else- but stay South- and spend at least 2 days in Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon area just to really rest and vacation in some leisure in the midst. Driving vacations are nifty and the best but really stay SOUTHWEST. You could also do Jerome (old mining town) and Montezuma's and the desert's one of earth's largest meteorite landing site too.

We did this in 2005 and stayed SOUTHWEST. Did Utah, Arizona, Nevada, N. Mexico (4 corners)- saw the ruins etc. Much more viewing and the "feel" of the Southwest, which is truly different, and not all that immense mileage.

pdeb69 Mar 15th, 2009 05:00 PM

Must sees in Las Vegas:
The fountain show at the Bellagio.
A tour of ethel's chocolate factory
The forum shops at Caesar's Palace
A Cirque du Soleil show
M & M World
"The Shark Reef" at the Mandalay Bay
The Lion Habitat at the MGM Grand


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:35 AM.